Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: AZ : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Michael,
Congratulations on the send! Lee's interpretation of my comment is spot on. My point was that, until the critic steps up to do it in better style, they should keep their mouth shut. I assume that Bloom, et al chose to bolt it because they felt they couldn't get solid gear. Considering C3s are new, I wonder if there was safe pro using 1997 technology. I don't know those guys, & I've never been on the route, so I don't have a dog in this fight, but I think its lame for people to cr... more >>
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Freerider (5.12d PG13)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Teflon Corner is insecure ninja stemming. Its the dihedral left of the Huber Variation. The pitch actually wanders all over the place, and veers way left, below the teflon corner, before jogging back right to an optional belay right of the Huber Variation.
|
Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Orange Juice (5.12c)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: When we first showed up in the morning we were the only people there, and it reminded me exactly of Australia. Climbing in the middle of nowhere, with virtually no trace of human passage, except for chalk & a line of bolts. Then the crowds showed up. Oh well!
There definitely is a hard section at the start, but probably no harder than ~12a with good beta. Your description of the crux is spot on--lots of chalk but not a lot to hold onto.
|
Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Persepolis : Zendebad (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Allegedly Lynn Hill thought this was "13b for short people". I thought it was harder than any of the other "13a" routes I tried at the Red. The crux move is a big reach from an undercling that requires your entire wingspan. If you can't make that reach (I couldn't at 5'7"), this move will be very hard.
|
Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Orange Juice (5.12c)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: To answer my own question, here are comments from MR. Loeffler posted on RedRiverClimbing.com:
"...Neal Strickland, Dave Lutes and myself were developing FR. Then Porter got wind of it and showed up. Not that we cared if Porter would show up, but we knew he was capable of bolting the entire wall in a weekend. Hence "There Goes the Neighborhood" by Neal. Then, Porter responded with his route, "The Infidel". I was with Porter one d... more >>
|
Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Dark Side : Shanghai (5.12d)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dude, you just blew everyone's onsight with that key piece of beta! Shh!
|
Location: AZ : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tough Guys,
Feel free to lead past those bolts without clipping them. Be sure to report back here so we know how it went.
Good luck!
|
Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Sometime Direct (5.10d R) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think that's what you call "Cheese-head hair", although usually the people that get it have mullets.
Go Bears! (but I'll be rooting for the Pack on Monday Night)
|
Location: WY : Sinks Canyon
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Sinks cliffline faces South, so most routes will be baking most of the time in August. There are pockets of shade at different times of the day if you know where to look.
Wild Iris is 3000 feet higher than Sinks, so is generally a bit cooler. However, a lot of the routes at the Iris also face south & it can be hot. There is more shade at Wild Iris than Sinks though. The OK Corral & Zorro are in the shade till noon, and the Erratic is in the shade all day.
Never been to Ten Sleep but ... more >>
|
Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Cowboy Poetry
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was told by a prominent local friend of mine that the infamous Alf has been known to chop routes at the Iris. My source didn't know if Alf did the job on this route specifically. I think the community would support replacing the bolts, but its not a high priority for locals.
|
Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Adam Taylor just sent "The Golden Ticket", perhaps the hardest route at the Red at 14c or d. Here are his comments posted at Redriverclimbing.com
"As for the route itself... it starts out nice and slow with maybe a 12c to the 4th bolt, wherein lies a massive jug slot, just enough to get one warmed up. The eight move sequence leading to the next bolt consists of thin m... more >>
|
Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Fullphilment (5.11b)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good route with excellent rock, but it tends to be covered in dirt most of the time, which significantly detracts from the experience. The climbing is relatively weird a la Ivory Tower, & most of the other routes on this part of the cliff. To keep the grade in the 5.11 range its necessary to weave a great deal to either side of the bolt line. I didn't find it to be runout by old school standards. Probably not the best warm-up.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : Girlfriend's Backside (V7)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Done, but you may not agree with my rating. I just picked what looked like the consensus (I've never been on it). Someone suggested that the "Classics" generator be modified to use the consensus rating for each route, which would also solve this problem.
|
Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Prime Evil (5.12a)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great new addition! Very continuous & technical at the grade. It's not over till you clip the anchor.
|
Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : The Rolling Log (5.11b)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hands down the worst route I've done at Rifle (haven't gotten around to Moroni Blows yet). The rock on this is extremely sketchy. If you must climb this, bring a helmet for you & your belayer.
|
Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Red Dawn (5.11d)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wonder if Angus was on The Rolling Log, which is everything that he said (too short, too scary, too dirty).
Red Dawn is almost as good as the movie, but a little on the short side.
|
Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : No Risk No Fin (5.10d)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This guy is currently really loose & dirty. Use a stick clip and have your belayer stand to the side. It looks like this will become a nice route if it ever gets properly cleaned.
|
Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Well-Dunn Wall : Sleestak Love (5.11d)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really nice route once you get past the chossy start. Stay left of the bolt line @ the start for better rock, and stick clip the 1st bolt (or 2nd if you can reach it). Crux is a bit more burly than what you usually find on a Rifle .11d, but the rest of the route is pretty moderate. Really nice limestone on the upper half. If anyone's got some hedge clippers, the base could use some minor gardening.
|
Location: CO : Indoor Walls : Glenwood Springs Rec Center
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't forget about the SWEEET waterslide in the heated indoor pool. That's the real attraction for climbers (shower included).
|
Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Rodeo Wave : Atomic Stetson (5.13c)
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really excellent route, despite its diminutive stature, that I think is noticeably better than Cow Reggae, though most guidebook authors seem to disagree. This is pretty long & sustained at the grade for a Wild Iris route. Most of the 5.13s up here have less than four hard moves. While the crux itself is probably only ~5 really hard moves, there are plenty of desparate opportunities above to blow the redpoint. There is one move in particular, right at the lip, that would make most ... more >>
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Wildcat Falls & Above the C... : Separate Reality (5.12a)
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Its harder than the roof pitches of either of those climbs.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Stayin' Alive (5.10a)
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: '..Ya but I wasn't over. Mark it an 8.'
'Smokey, you're entering a World of PAIN.'
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Aviary Ort Overhangs (5.9)
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're correct (and I don't see any reason to think that you aren't), that would have been one of the hardest multi-pitch routes in the country at the time. Nice work!
..and its great to have you here on MP.com! Welcome!
|
Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Wild Horses Wall : The Prospect (5.10d)
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tape is not necessary, but it may make things easier. You can pretty much stem up the entire dihedral. Don't miss the big pocket out right.
|
Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Rode Hard Wall : Copenhagen Angel (5.13b)
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a pretty cool route for what it is. This is one of those cruxes that feels impossible when you first feel the holds, but with the right body english, it turns out to be NTB. This is also not your typical commitment-free sport climb. There probably ought to be another bolt above the lip, but I'll tip my hat to Skinner and just say that its far more memorable the way it is.
FYI, the beta above regarding the 5.13 climbing is not very accurate.
Also, there is a new bolted variation to ... more >>
|
RSS Feed
