Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Mission Overdrive (5.14a/b)
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: In my view, this is a substantial improvement on Interstellar Overdrive. I don't know what it is about Clear Creek, but the linkups are often better than the "straight up" lines! Anyway, an outstanding route, thanks for the vision and hardware, Jay!
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Flight of the Phoenix (5.14a)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I put together a short video of the climb. Check it out here.
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Flight of the Phoenix (5.14a)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: For me, this is by far the hardest route at Shelf. This took me significantly longer to climb than any other Shelf route. That said, I'm not very good at this type of climbing. Shelf's other .14s suit me much better. I wouldn't be surprised if a strong boulderer found this to be easier than the relatively pumpy Apogee Pending or the highly technical 'Paradise'. I also wouldn't be surprised if future climbers decide this is sandbagged. This is one of those weird routes like Dumpste... more >>
|
Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Sector D'or et Bleu : Sky Pilot (5.13c/d)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't think of a better word than "brilliant" to describe this line. On par with any of the best hard sport routes in America.
Since I'm bored at work, one small nitpick for the sake of preserving history: Although I'm sure there is no official definition, I don't think the cross move qualifies as a 'full on rose move'. "Rose Move" comes from the classic Buoux route "La Rose et Le Vampire". Here is what a Rose Move looks like:
| THE original "Rose Move"
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 4, 2012
|
I suppose its possible that a really short... more >>
|
Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : (01) South and Southwest (R... : The B.F.G. (5.13)
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sounds like a cool line and a worthwhile addition. Pics??
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sport Rock
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Richard, it sounds like this crag is in Jefferson County. Have you tried using the JeffCO Assessor's ASPIN Map tool to determine ownership? Check it out here.
|
Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Uplift Mofo Party Plan (5.11b)
By: Monomaniac When: Aug 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is UMP Plan B something you buy at the Pharmacy the morning after Special Secret Song Inside happens?
|
Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Uplift Mofo Party Plan (5.11b)
By: Monomaniac When: Aug 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: No, its named after the other Uplift Mofo Party Plan ;)
|
Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : The Urban Alpine Crag
By: Monomaniac When: Aug 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice addition, Lee/Mike/Mike et. al.! I've driven/ridden by this cliff countless times and thought it would make for a nice little crag.
Watch out for road bikes on the approach!
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Northcutt-Carter (5.7)
By: Monomaniac When: Jul 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Julius,
I think your critique is fair. I've enjoyed climbing the routes on that list as much as anyone, but to be fair, many of the selections have not withstood the test of time. But to answer your question, I believe the route was included in 50 Classics because of its "historical significance". Northcutt declared it the hardest in CO, and perhaps the hardest route in America when he did the FA in 1956. Chouinard & Ken Weeks casually fired it in half a day for the 2d ascent. Needles to s... more >>
|
Location: CO : South Platte
By: Monomaniac When: May 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new guidebook is absolutely sick! Tons of inspiring photos and lots of new stuff I didn't know about; it's provided lots of great reading (even my wife, who never looks at guidebooks, has enjoyed leafing through it). An amazing effort by Jason & Co. It ships really fast too, I think I got mine the day after I ordered it. I'm sure if you order today you'll have yours in time for Memorial Day Weekend. With the recent lifting of much of the Cathedral Spires closure, the timing co... more >>
|
Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm a sucker for lists. Its been a long time since I climbed here, so I'm not too sure on the order and I couldn't come up with 10, but here are some climbs that stick in my mind as routes that would be classics at any crag:
Where the Wild Things Aren't
Clovis Hunter
Cock-a-Doodle-Do
Grape Ape
Mastadont
Pale Face
Unnamed Arete (Left of Tweak Fuck)
Schmeming
Good (more memorable than good!)
|
Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut (5.11c)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jay Samuelson wrote: The bolt in the roof on this climb is in pretty bad condition
Considering there is a bolt 2 feet below this bolt and another 2 feet above, it hardly seems worth worrying about.
| YYYYEEEEHHHAAAA!!!!!
Submitted By: Ben L. on Dec 22, 2009
|
|
Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Tam O'Shanter : The Burn Zone : The Red Wall : Masterbiner (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice vid gents. Looks like a sweet line.
|
Location: OR : Smith Rock : Upper Gorge
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Its called "Smith Rock".
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : Apogee Pending (5.14a)
By: Monomaniac When: Jan 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beanie is correct.
|
Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Tiger's Woody (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, and nice name too!
|
Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : The Unaweeper (5.13c)
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work, Piz, looks rad!
|
Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Crystal Cave : Soul Crusher (5.13b) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't figure out how anyone could possibly tell!
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Great Black North : The Magus (5.13b)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The movement & position on this line are totally rad. Easily the most exposed route at Shelf. It's too bad the first half of the bulge is rather chossy.
I didn't find the opening slab to be dirty, but it was somewhat spooky with a lot of loose-looking rock (though nothing broke on me).
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : Spitting Image (5.13b)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did not prep this line. There was a faded piece of cord tied to the first bolt, so I assume my ascent is the first. If not, please correct me. Whoever bolted this line had a great vision; it's one of the best routes I've done at Shelf.
| "Red" Tag?
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 21, 2011
|
Considering the state of the cord, I figured the route was fair game.
|
Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : HyperNova (5.12-)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climbing through the roof is all-time, ultra classic. Unfortunately the crux is the unsettling slab above the roof. The rock on the slab is flawless, but the climbing just isn't very fun. Definitely worth it just to climb the roof though.
You need at least a 60m rope to descend, and even that requires extreme caution.
|
Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Nirvana (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's also a pretty thin mono move on the clean section of rock between the long diagonal and the juggy headwall. I thought that was the crux, if there is one. This is one of those classic continuous lines that is basically crux-less. Would be a great choice for a first 5.13.
|
Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Samsara (5.13b)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: IMO, the best route in the tall/juggy part of the Killer Cave.
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : Full Retard (5.13b)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Obviously, you're not a golfer.
I think if you understand the context, the name is not offensive. If you do understand the context and you're still offended, then I apologize for offending you, but I recommend that in the future, you avoid the internet.
|
RSS Feed
