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Member Since: Jan 29, 2009
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact MojoMonkey

Point Rank: # 6,620
Total Points: 72
Last Year: 11
Last 30 Days: 5
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has MojoMonkey been climbing?










Contributions


All 492 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 3 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 24 | Posts 250 | Stars 211 | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Groovin'

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a (18)

Sport, 1 pitch, 80'

PA : Southeastern Lowlands : ... : 6. Big Wall

Oct 17, 2011

Mr. P's Wurst

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (13)

Trad, 3 pitches, 170'

NY : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...

Oct 4, 2011

Zorro

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a (19)

Sport

PA : Southeastern Lowlands : ... : 4. Zorro Wall

Mar 20, 2009

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Girl with a Blonde Chopper

Girl with a Blonde Chopper

Forums : Climbing Gear Discussion : ... : Post

Nov 9, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Leader is on Wonderama; climber to the right is on...

Leader is on Wonderama; climber to the right is on Locomotion.

PA : South Central PA : ... : Wonderama (5.12a/b)

Nov 21, 2011

Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the technical crux of Groovin'

Starting the technical crux of Groovin'

PA : Southeastern Lowlands : ... : Groovin' (5.11d)

Oct 17, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : BB Route (5.8+)
By: MojoMonkey When: 5 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: This also felt easier to me than CC Route - style preference I guess?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Fat Stick (5.7+)
By: MojoMonkey When: Jun 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I had fun on this (only did P1). Pulling into the notch seemed easy to me and I thought the "awkward climbing" above it was harder. Looked simple at first but I got stopped short of exiting it. Made it through (backwards?) after and didn't feel graceful, but it was amusing!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Land of The Giants (5.7)
By: MojoMonkey When: Jun 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Great long pitch - only negative for me was the couple sections of loose rock. I think I remember a few spots of looser stuff, but mainly remember the couple of larger blocks maybe 30' from the top. Nice chance to get a close-up view of the tiered roof above!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Casa Emilio (5.3)
By: MojoMonkey When: Jun 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Combined with a scramble down Roger's Escape Hatch after and the longer walk out and back, plus the scramble to the start, this can be a great goal to give a newer climber a rewarding and likely unoccupied climbing sampler!

Just getting to the start can be exciting / scary for someone new to climbing though, so keep that in mind. Some talus scrambling, a pine needle covered ramp, then a somewhat exposed climb up onto the pinnacle to belay. Starts with a little step across fr... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : CC Route (5.7)
By: MojoMonkey When: Jun 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Fun route with a variety of climbing in a short pitch. The bolt mentioned in the previous comment is no longer present, but there is a pin a little up and left of it. I have no real facility for judging their condition but both pins on the route seemed solid enough for me to trust. Fun little connection to history girth hitching the big ring too! Unfortunately there is obvious wear on the bolt from folks either lowering or TRing through it.

Maybe height related (I'm 6&@POUND... more >>


Location: PA : Southeastern Lowlands : Birdsboro Quarry : 8. West Wall : Crackalicious (5.12b)
By: MojoMonkey When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: Just a heads up, back in 19-dickety-2 I climbed this onsight, chalkless, barefoot, naked and free solo with an agitated squirrel perched on my head while onlookers insulted my mother and 1000 naked women threw little pickles at me.

I'm hoping to get back on it this fall in better style.


Location: PA : Southeastern Lowlands : Birdsboro Quarry : 4. Zorro Wall : Zorro (5.12a)
By: MojoMonkey When: Sep 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: It depends on how much face (harder) vs arete (easier) climbing you do. The person that entered it stayed on the arete to the second bolt and then climbed the face and rated it 11a. Someone else called it 11b (the only person rating it so he is consensus by himself). He provided no description of the line he followed.

Never did hear which way is supposed to be 12a - face only? I haven't been back in the years since my last comment so couldn't even guess now.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill
By: MojoMonkey When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: I can't seem to find the info anywhere, but I thought they opened at 9AM? It seems you are implying they open earlier if they tend to be full by 9AM. All I can find is that Minnewaska opens at 9AM. Can't find if $10 is still the day fee either.

Update: Someone answered the phone today and confirmed they open at 9AM and it is $10 per climber.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Carbs and Caffeine (5.11a)
By: MojoMonkey When: Sep 19, 2013

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Comments: It's been a little over a year - anyone know if the bolt status is the same? Pulled out? Replaced? Sounds like there is no reasonable gear options for a while if the previous poster indicates it as R climbing...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Yum Yum Yab Yum (5.4)
By: MojoMonkey When: Sep 24, 2012

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Comments: I'd imagine any rappel setup above Eenie Meenie would be removed since that climb is part of the closed portion of the Nears.


Location: PA : Southeastern Lowlands : Birdsboro Quarry : 9. Sun Wall (Long Slabs) : Virgin Suicides (5.9+)
By: MojoMonkey When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: As an update to my last comment, either I was less observant last time or rock is flaking off from behind the hangers. There were more bolts with 1/4" or so of bolt exposed behind the hanger. 4-6? I didn't count.

And regarding Larry's comment on the four anchor bolts, the leftmost one is maybe 2" from an abandoned drill hole. Given the rock quality and that bolt spacing guidelines I've seen are 10x bolt diameter or 2x hole depth, I wouldn't recommend anybody running the climb as one long pi... more >>


Location: PA : Southeastern Lowlands : Birdsboro Quarry : 14. Beer Wall (Reservoir Le... : Mighty Midget (5.8)
By: MojoMonkey When: Jul 12, 2012

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Comments: Missing how? The hanger was removed but bolt still there? Bolt chopped? Chunk of rock with the bolt fell out?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Wallface
By: MojoMonkey When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: Weather- and bug-wise, when is prime season for Wallface?


Location: NY : The Gunks : Photo
By: MojoMonkey When: Feb 29, 2012

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Comments: I believe you mean Near Trapps for the central portion of this photo. The Trapps would be off to the right and is not visible.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector : Urban Daydreams (5.10d)
By: MojoMonkey When: Dec 6, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I could be wrong - my info was based on the old Rock & Ice guide. It showed Static Cling to the climber's right of Urban Daydreams, sharing the start of Autumn Arch but heading up the face instead of following the corner.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor South : j. Hydroman Sector : Hydroman (5.11a)
By: MojoMonkey When: Nov 21, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Little pockets, sometimes sharp, and just enough holds for fun, thoughtful climbing. Left-hand pocket used to get to the not-as-good-as-you'd-like horizontal near the top had a piece break off on Sunday. Was a little wet/dirty inside, and somewhat sharp, but usable. Crux was right at the top for us. My partner worked up the arete to the right and had a tricky step left to get to the anchors. I stayed in the corner, eventually getting a hand out/up left, then a heel to get settled. I then c... more >>


Location: PA : South Central PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector : Wonderama (5.12a/b)
By: MojoMonkey When: Nov 21, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The striking arete right of the large Autumn Arch corner. There were a couple of decent rest spots to shake the pump out of your right arm - that is getting most of the workout on this overhanging arete.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector : Urban Daydreams (5.10d)
By: MojoMonkey When: Nov 21, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: About 20 feet left of the obvious corner of Autumn Arch. Blocky start to get established on the slabby face. Based on the streaks, it looks like the face stays wet longer than other sections. Fun, delicate climbing; a little grungy in some spots but not bad.

It was wet at the top on Sunday but the left-hand pocket was still pretty good and there was a dry nub for a left foot to feel just secure enough to get to the anchors.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Whippoorwill
By: MojoMonkey When: Nov 15, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Anyone familiar with Don Miron? The long reach just above the little roof seemed hard for the grade. Anyone want to privately send me the sequence through there? I was sort of hoping that a foothold had broken off that made it harder - there was a little section of broken rock that may have been a right foot but I have no idea if that was before or after the route was graded. I may not ever make it back out there but am curious how it goes.


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