Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CT : Central- Traprock : East Peak : Ampitheatre : Dol Guldur (5.11 PG13)
By: mobley When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brian, thanks for the info. I consider a route that gets TRed 99 times + for every one lead a TR though. Maybe I need to go back and look a little closer for good gear, I do know if you blew it before the first piece went in you may end up at the bottom of a very steep rocky hill after pounding into a ledge.
|
Location: AZ : Panther Peak
By: mobley When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: nice looking stuff Joe, maybe I'll get to see it this winter.
|
Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Moonlight (5.6)
By: mobley When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: we climbed a really wet first pitch of CCK and walked over and did Moonlight P2, next time I'll do first pitch of Erect Direction to get to it. great climb!
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Slice and Dice (5.12) : Photo
By: mobley When: Jul 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wiiillllbbbuuurr!
|
Location: CT : Central- Traprock : Bradley Mountain : Fire Wall
By: mobley When: May 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: thanks for posting this then, I see a great undone mixed line I'm going to have to put up for all to enjoy.
|
Location: CT : Central- Traprock : Bradley Mountain : Fire Wall
By: mobley When: Apr 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did Ken give permission to copy his book onto this site? I thought you were supposed to do the routes, then post up descriptions.
|
Location: CT : Central- Traprock : Main Cliff : Aid Crack (5.10)
By: mobley When: Apr 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: we must not be talking the same route
|
Location: CT : Southeast : Mystic Areas
By: mobley When: Mar 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: here it all is-
http://www.freewebs.com/mysticbouldering/
I'd say Shylo wouldnt mind if someone did some transferring of beta.
|
Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Zappa Dome : Excentrifugal Forz (5.8+)
By: mobley When: Mar 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: fun roof move
|
Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Owl Rock : Nightstalker (5.9)
By: mobley When: Mar 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: as of 3/1/09 there is a bees nest in a crack on the left side of the formation. you cant miss the noise when you rap off the back. I didnt stick around to see what kind of bees they were but I did have to pull the rope pretty close to them.
|
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Munchkinland Area : Wall of the Trundling Troll... : The Slot (5.8)
By: mobley When: Mar 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: seemed really clean to me, I moved right at about 80' and used the anchors for the other 5.8.
|
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Munchkinland Area : Wall of the Trundling Troll... : Talk of the Nation (5.10+)
By: mobley When: Mar 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: very nice route
|
Location: CT : Connecticut Bouldering : Seven Falls Bouldering : Bible Rock Bouldering
By: mobley When: Feb 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: http://www.wesleyan.edu/wsa/wmc/sevenfalls.html
guide
|
Location: Brian in SLC : Cranial bolt and stopper : Photo
By: mobley When: Jan 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love how the stopper makes a great fingerlock! I've seen more than one leader deck here using the bolt.
|
Location: VA : Great Falls : Aid Box : Lost Arrow (5.10)
By: mobley When: Dec 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: yes, the pro may look good but cams dont hold in this shit
|
Location: CT : Central- Traprock : East Peak : Ampitheatre : Dol Guldur (5.11 PG13)
By: mobley When: Nov 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hope to TR this route 101 times in one day.
this route needs a bolt or two.
|
Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Annie Oh! (5.8+)
By: mobley When: Nov 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: first pitch is way exciting, I used all my small cams
|
Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs : Runout Ridge (5.7+ R)
By: mobley When: Nov 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I once tried to get to these slabs in the ole astro van to get the bejesus scared out of me. I was lucky to have made it out of the sandpit at 50mph...
now after waking up and voting(not for Mcsame, sorry Utah) at 6am sharp, heading to the Gunks with the check engine light on and running out of gas 1/4 mile before the Trapps, then realizing the passenger window stopped working and then climbing some really scary shit with no bolts whatsoever I'm feeling pretty good!
now folks, take out the BOM... more >>
|
Location: CT : Central- Traprock : Main Cliff : Unconquerable Crack (5.10a)
By: mobley When: Aug 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: as with most climbs here, you will be psyched to have a #4 camalot, I once loaned my #4 to a Gypsy and easily replaced it in the same spot with my #5.
|
Location: CT : Central- Traprock : Main Cliff : Kor Crack (5.9-)
By: mobley When: Aug 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: used the #5 camalot, was happy to have it. large hexes could have been OK too, especially if you dump the #4 at the crux.
|
Location: CT : Central- Traprock : Cathole : Claw Marks (5.8-)
By: mobley When: Aug 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: route is listed in some books as 5.6
I'd say its harder than Pegasus
|
Location: CT : Central- Traprock : Cathole : Arrowhead (5.8)
By: mobley When: Aug 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: with a bolt or two on the upper face, this route could be classic. nasty but fun offwidth to a good crack then to a cruxy face that takes you to the top of the block where after stepping over the 4' gap you get another 10' of good crack climbing to the trees.
|
Location: CT : Chatfield Hollow : Super Slab (5.5)
By: mobley When: Jul 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: can be done 3 different ways by either breaking right or left at the roof or just going strait over it. safe lead for sure.
|
Location: CT : Central- Traprock : Main Cliff : Wiessner Crack (5.8)
By: mobley When: Jul 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I dont know why but the Wiessner crack should be listed from the ground up. Starting in the cave behind the slab in the same corner is the way to go if you enjoy 90' long cracks. climb through the hole, good stuff.
|
Location: CT : Central- Traprock : Main Cliff : Aid Crack (5.10)
By: mobley When: Jul 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: not really any gear to be had after the crux. could use a pin or a bolt for the finish.
|
RSS Feed
