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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Rites of Passage (5.11+)
By: -mn When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good route for sure....the analog crack system of Vision Quest. Three #4 friends or equiv. Save one to back up the old bolts atop p.4 (or #4 camalot). The last pitch climbs out of the notch and face moves to the N. summit.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : The Mudshark Arpeggio (5.11+ R)
By: -mn When: May 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A marvelous little arpeggio.And now....
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Trisstin's Tower : regular route (5.7 A1)
By: -mn When: Apr 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Goes clean on all the usual thin stuff - super fun. No need to haul anything bigger than a #2camalot up there. I did place a #3 but could get by without. Also the road into the basin is passable for 1 mile with a 2wd - after that you'd need a 4wd to get through a wash and maybe one other spot...damn! Probably just as well the road reclaims itself even though the whole basin has been totally ravaged by livestock. Nice find FA party! About as hard to get clean as Islet but more fiddly,... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Friction Slab : The Turner Prize Tower (5.8 C1)
By: -mn When: Jan 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: bolt ladders arn't dead in the 21st century....they just smell funny.....
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Durango : US Highway 550 : Bear Creek Falls (WI4)
By: -mn When: Dec 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We got lucky and were able to drive all the way up the Elkhorn Rd. This put us about a mile or so away from the falls, with just an easy contour/bushwack through the oakbrush. This was back in the 90's though, before they started building up there. Not many folks have been in there. Definately a cool spot.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Air Voyage (5.12-)
By: -mn When: Dec 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought Air Voyage finished out left after the OW, and the 8th Voyage finished straight up like described above?? Has anyone here done the 8th Voyage? Always wanted to do it....
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Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ames Wall : Seamstress Corner (5.11+ R)
By: -mn When: Nov 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route with my bro back in the '90s and I remember it being pretty hard and sketchy! We also didn't do the last two pitches - made it down just before the sky unleashed a wicked downpour. A great obscure, forgotten trad line. A more sane climb called Gravity's Deception (5.8) is found on the left side of the cliff and offers a great crack line up the north facing side of a big open book. Adventure and solitude !!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Islet In The Sky : Regular Route (5.9+ C3+)
By: -mn When: May 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally climbed this after years of lookin'at it.Came in from the rim..wasn't to bad.Third pitch was free at 5.10(the traverse).After this take nuthin' but small wires and singles on cams to a #3cam. for the occasional bomber placement.A #2 ballnut and a handplaced 5/8" sawed angle were handy on pitch 5. Thought the "wiggly curiosities" were bomber. Sweet clean aid on a great tower...one of the best. Miles Newby & Parker Newby
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Stand Up Comic (5.11+ X)
By: -mn When: Sep 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, I wouldn't want to fall on the first pitch roof, but just boulder out the moves past the little horn. The triangle roof is cool-save some juice for the finish. We did it without using the bolted belays in keeping with the style of the rest of this buttress, but I guess the FA party thought they were necessary. We started during the heat of the afternoon knowing we were gonna roast and we did, but it was fun anyway. Good route. -miles newby
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Location: UT : The Glen Canyon National Re... : The Middle Finger Tower (5.9 A3-)
By: -mn When: May 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bill - Was the bolt to the right of the "large square block" placed on the first ascent???
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Unknown Sister (5.10d C1)
By: -mn When: May 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this clean last week. It was definitely harder than C1. Finally got a baby angle to stick in the pin scar after the bolt. After that hooks and sketchy small stoppers before the crack opened up. Also getting to the bolt on tiny stoppers was exciting - decking potential here I thought.I had a skeleton rack so hb offsets,another baby angle for an empty hole (or hook it),and some bigger saw offs would come in handy.A fun little tower though. Judging from the webbing on top I'm guessing very ... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Telluride : Ames Wall : Ames Ice Hose (WI5 M6 R)
By: -mn When: Dec 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty drippy 2nd pitch on 12/15 - never seen so much water on this route. Guess all that rainfall in Oct. Should be huge come Feb. Definitely prefer the patchier conditions on this route as it makes for some wild climbin'! Thanks to the person who pulled the bolts, however the holes need to be patched as they are butt ugly. I'll take a hike up there in the spring-summer and do it unless someone beats me to it. Hopefully those feeling the need to bolt this have given up. - Miles Newby
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Blanca Peak : Little Bear-Blanca Traverse (5.0)
By: -mn When: Aug 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this car to car in 10 hrs. from the 8,000' level (about 2 miles from Hwy. 150). Finished with Ellingwood Point then down its W. Ridge. Thought I would post this for others curious about times. I was movin' pretty quick, but I'm definitely no speed demon. Hint: do the W. Ridge of Little Bear instead of the shooting gallery of the normal route. Stayed right on the ridge except for one spot. Beautiful exposed ridge with a few spots of low 5th - a little harder than the traverse itself and a gre... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : Brer Rabbit (5.11b A3+ R)
By: -mn When: Mar 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bivy cave is plush but hauling on this thing would be a nightmare.
You could leave all your gear at the cave and go for the summit but
getting back to the bivy would be tedious at best.I thought the ledge
atop pitch 3 would be a better bivy because it's right on the ridge.
Best to just fix then cruise it the next day. Wear your rock shoes
if the're comfy.We had no problem freeing with our beat up approach
shoes.If your sack is feeling particularly big on this route then you
could free up to ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : Brer Rabbit (5.11b A3+ R)
By: -mn When: Mar 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: We climbed this route clean on 3/4-5/06.Tricky(maybe desperate)in a few spots but overall n.t.b.,C3/+?.Sawed angles,offsets,loweballs,tri-
cams,"fraid" moves etc..the usual fishers stuff.The crux pitch was
climbed clean on an earlier attempt in Jan.The craziest placement being the two smallest loweballs stacked and shoved up into a blind
L.A.slot! There are some somewhat scary runout situations on the
harder pitches.We hand hauled a small pack and it sucked due to all
the traversing sections.Ove... more >>
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