Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
On top Royal Arches (Yosemite Valley).


Member Since: Oct 15, 2005
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact mmurduff


Point Rank: # 5,931
Total Points: 60
Last Year: 4
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has mmurduff been climbing?










Contributions


All 87 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 25 | Posts | Stars 31 | Ratings 26

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Campfire Crag : ... : Shattered (5.10c)
By: mmurduff When: Feb 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I couldn't pull the move past the bulge (crux). Small crimps and a high step right foot shut me down... ugh.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Campfire Crag : ... : The Fetus (5.10a/b)
By: mmurduff When: Feb 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Not only was the first move reachy, but I felt the route was overall a reach fest. And ya, many loose and crumbly areas, be aware.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Campfire Crag : ... : Banquet (5.9)
By: mmurduff When: Feb 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed this thinking it was a 5.8 I was quite impressed. Loose blocks and steeper than it seems terrain prevails on this route. Worth doing before the loose holds fall off.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Campfire Crag : ... : McStain (5.8)
By: mmurduff When: Feb 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Strangely there are two bolts side by side at the second clip stance. Both spin a little, and both look new. Take your pick.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : A Fistfull of Poodles (5.8)
By: mmurduff When: Jan 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Half way up, passing the large bulge can be done with a lay back. The left arcing crack at the top can also be passed with lay back technique.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : Six-Gun by My Side (5.10a)
By: mmurduff When: Jan 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Felt to me every bit of 5.10a. Extremely enjoyable smearing, pinches, crimpers and plenty of high stepping with the mantle move up top. Direct start wasn't ever an option, just followed the bolts (bolt number 2 seems odd, but makes sense when you see the rope-line together).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : Corral Crack (5.6)
By: mmurduff When: Jan 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Good crack for practicing fist and hand crack climbing technique. Plenty of gear slots available plus a rap anchor makes this route worth the effort. Or at the very least an access route to top rope harder nearby climbs.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Billboard Buttress : The Reverend (5.8)
By: mmurduff When: Jan 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I seconded this line, though we didn't summit. Leader built a belay anchor and I followed through and over to the rap rings on Driving Limitations. Fun, but very short.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Left Hand of Darkness : Left Hand of Darkness - E. ... : Granny Goose (5.7)
By: mmurduff When: Oct 31, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: @ caughtinside: I lead the entire route from ground up. What I meant by followed the second traverse is that I followed the left traversing crack instead of following the smaller crack directly up and out.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Atlantis Area : Minotaur Wall : Minotaur (5.7)
By: mmurduff When: Oct 30, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Worth doing for the top out moves. Also a good line to get up and set TR on adjacent routes. The down climb is sketchy at best and warrants serious consideration of getting on or off this route. I hope to see a rappel anchor up there some day. Not recommended for the inexperienced Joshua Tree down climber.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Left Hand of Darkness : Left Hand of Darkness - E. ... : Granny Goose (5.7)
By: mmurduff When: Oct 30, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I lead this last weekend and followed the second traverse, the one up near the top. The route exits straight up from the vertical crack, but I went to the left on the face with thin feet and uncomfortable hands. I rate the upper traverse an 8 or 8+.

Does anybody have any information about whether a variation route exists off of, and/or angling left away from granny Goose.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Campsites Road : Group Campsite 11 : ... : Short Crack (5.4)
By: mmurduff When: Nov 3, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Awkward positioning early down low on the route makes me feel that this is not a beginner trad lead, despite a 5.4 rating (which I think is bogus). Sure it eats gear okay, but it requires a pretty cleaver stance to safely insert it. Two bolts (no ring, no chains) lay above the bulge just beyond the top of the crack.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Campsites Road : Group Campsite 11 : ... : Bakersfield Bomb (5.8)
By: mmurduff When: Nov 3, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Does have two bolt anchors, no rings or chains.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Campsites Road : Group Campsite 11 : ... : Hogback (5.8)
By: mmurduff When: Nov 3, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Enjoyable. Easily two stars. Plenty of variety right of lead bolts, though on top rope fun increases as does the variety. Anchors still there, no ring or chains as mentioned previously.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : Sword of Damocles (5.9)
By: mmurduff When: Jul 11, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Very thought provoking. Used heal toe smearing in the flared chimney. Exiting the Chimney was the Crux in my opinion.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : The Hernia (5.8)
By: mmurduff When: Jul 11, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I would give this route 2 stars. Excellent representation of 5.8 with a fantastic finish. USed tri-cams, nuts, #3 and others.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : John Yablonski Rock : Hartman (5.6)
By: mmurduff When: Nov 29, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: The shallow angle and short length of this route does make it a good choice for new leaders. Not to mention the easy approach and walk off (to the climbers right).Protection can be placed before pulling into the crack. An anchor can be built from almost anything. For example, I used four tricams.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - West Face : Karpkwitz (5.6)
By: mmurduff When: Nov 29, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: This climb was somewhat challenging to my partners. Although a 5.6, The right leaning crack past the horizontal area takes a bit of commitment even if it only takes a few pieces of gear. The crack protects very well with Medium Nuts. The anchor I placed took a #4 directly above the crack and small tricams in a horizontal. I give it one star because the crack can be done as a layback, which I thought was fun!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - East Face : Toe Jam (5.7)
By: mmurduff When: Oct 30, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Great gear up the end where I almost always place a small (pink) tri-cam before ending the climb. A must do!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - East Face : Geronimo (5.7)
By: mmurduff When: Oct 30, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Incredibly fun, terribly short. We approached from the anchors of Double Cross: walked up a ramp to a crack went up to the summit and then dropped in next to Geronimo.Belay at two bolts (nice!) Medium to large gear for the leader and enjoy! When you pull the lip, yell: GERONIMO


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Orphan (5.9)
By: mmurduff When: Oct 30, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Now that it has been a few days, and my wounds have healed, I can say that This route was in fact enjoyable. The lower and middle section was both surprising and challenging. The upper section... well I can suggest wearing long pants. A true test of skill and sanity!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - South Face : Bonzo Dog Band (5.7)
By: mmurduff When: Oct 23, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Everthing these two gentlemen stated I will agree with. A #4 is necessary near the bottom which I agree is the crux.For those with either small hands or poor jamming technique, I am interested to hear how it goes leading the face left of the flake. It looks very climbable! Somethinig about this climb seems "old school", perhaps not all of the holds have broken off like many other J-Tree routes.

Mike


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - North Side : Helix (5.2)
By: mmurduff When: Oct 23, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: This route can reach the anchors for the sport routes which are adjacent to Helix. Using larger gear and long runners, it is a choice lead for trad beginers and good practice at placing gear. Although I should mention that not a lot of gear is used on this route compared to other J-Tree routes. If nothing else the access to rap anchors verses walking off makes this route a quick hit.

Mike


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - North Side : Fun Stuff (5.8)
By: mmurduff When: Oct 23, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Its been two years since I first lead Fun Stuff and I can't remember the start being too difficult. I went back agin this weekend and was totally surprised by the ultimately crimpy start of this 5.8. The climb begins with small crimpers on flaking & crumbling rock w/o foot holds. Yeah the first bolt is close enough you could clip and pull your way through it, but thats not the game we play. Same type of crimpers past the second bolt, however, the rock is more sound. The rest of the climb is... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Locomotion Rock : Leaping Leaner (5.6)
By: mmurduff When: Oct 16, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Although the route seems easy, the little to very few foot holds for your left foot make this climb very interesting. Excellent practice for right hand jams! Great anchors and solid gear in the crack. Used a small tri-cam (pink) near the bottom before reaching the crack. Nut placements were few, tri-cams worked better, and cams worked best for this parallel crack.