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buildering in denver


Member Since: Jul 8, 2007
Last Visit: 23 hours ago
Contact mlloyd


Point Rank: # 684
Total Points: 935
Last Year: 114
Last 30 Days: 21
84 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has mlloyd been climbing?










Contributions


All 441 | Routes 29 | Areas 6 | Photos 94 | Page Improvements | Comments 85 | Posts 2 | Stars 167 | Ratings 58
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Stoked Bowl : Don't Hate (5.12d)
By: mlloyd When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: I agree with Kevin's thoughts, I quite enjoyed the top: good rock and interesting moves... have you considered bolting a direct start to the line that would add a bit of meat to the climb and avoid the death flakes of doom?

Anyhow, nice contribution, Scott, all in all, it's a nice line and well-graded.

I just bolted a couple lines to the right of this route, a 5.13ish line out the steep roof and a 5.11 just past it, which will make this a pretty cool spot.

On a side note, I saw someone rem... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Twitch Rock : The Dream Variation (5.10b)
By: mlloyd When: Sep 5, 2014

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Comments: A much better option for a warm up than the 9 to the left, this route avoids the wet layback on the end. Nice work, Will!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Brennivin (5.12+)
By: mlloyd When: Sep 5, 2014

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Comments: After talking with Pete (the first ascentionist), he thought it would be a good idea to swap one of the old rusty pitons for a bolt. His point is that when first placed, pitons are solid, and with time they become more sketchy, essentially making the route more dangerous for future acsentionists. So I went up and added one just above the crux (right next to the existing piton), the route maintains its exciting nature and "trad" feel, but now you don't have to do the dyno over a rusty, flexing p... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Twitch Rock : Prowler (5.14a)
By: mlloyd When: Sep 5, 2014

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Comments: Since I've been climbing on this route so much, I thought I would add a proper anchor. The original anchors where two regular bolts, are oddly placed above the lip. I added chain to get them over the lip, quicklinks and biners... all dialed out now.

I sent this rig today after a bunch of tries... 18 to be exact. Obviously I'm not a power climber. I'm not sure, I think it could be a little soft when compared to Interstellar and Shine. The route feels about the same difficulty as Grim Aura at Pr... more >>


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : The Pipeline : Freshly Squeezed (5.12a)
By: mlloyd When: Aug 12, 2014

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Comments:



Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Twitch Rock : Prowler (5.14a)
By: mlloyd When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: Nice job on this, Mark. I'm psyched about your additions to the canyon recently... we got them in the new guidebook. I went up and tried this yesterday, and I'm psyched... it's definitely my summer project. Thanks for getting this rig done! If you have a sec, I would love to pick your brain for some beta for when you climb left just after the bulge... could you PM me? Also... I have some projects that I have been trying if you're interested....


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : The Notch Couloir (Mod. Snow)
By: mlloyd When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this route yesterday May 5th, found good climbing conditions with little to no wind and relatively consolidated snow, although some scary sugar snow existed. A good fun/long day, we descended the north face.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Flight 67 to Stockholm (5.11a/b)
By: mlloyd When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments:



Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Cat Slab Boulders : Into The Light (V7)
By: mlloyd When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: Here is 2010 video of the ascent:




Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Postcolonial Crag : The Marble Man (5.13b)
By: mlloyd When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: I wanted to do the line sans bolts, but after top rope rehearsal (for the head-point), a method I have used to free solo up to 5.12d/13a, the sloper V8 crux at the 30 foot mark was unreasonable for me, the first ascentionist. The route would not be contribution to the climbing community, which is the end goal... crazy I know. As it stands now, the line is a very fun mid-13 that gets full winter sun. A nice addition to the canyon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Lion (5.12b X)
By: mlloyd When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: The Lion, Eldorado Canyon.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Nomad's Cave : Pizza Dick aka Mother Natu... (5.12c)
By: mlloyd When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: Head point free soloing by Matt Lloyd
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Flyin' Child (5.13a)
By: mlloyd When: Aug 23, 2013

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Comments: An excellent link-up. Good work, fellas! I think it's well graded at 13a.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Goin' The Distance (5.12d)
By: mlloyd When: Aug 7, 2013

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Comments: A one move wonder, and that one move is a mother fucker.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Hanging Judge (5.11c)
By: mlloyd When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments:



Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Postcolonial Crag : The Marble Man (5.13b)
By: mlloyd When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: I tried this yesterday, and I think it's much harder than 12-. The moves on the first half are fun and pretty chill once you figure them out, the second half is a totally different story. There is a lot of lichen on the left side of the arÍte, so I rapped down it to brush it off and some of the holds I was able to pull off with my hand. I'm going to go back and give it a solid effort today. Maybe 12+ maybe harder. Either way, I think the ground up ascent is very unlikely. In fact, it's almost a ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Red Tag Hag (5.12d)
By: mlloyd When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: I tried this one today after climbing micro chip... it's way harder than its neighbor. I feel the crux is quite burly. It goes but is more like V7/8. Look forward to hooking it up.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Micro Chip (5.13a)
By: mlloyd When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: Worth climbing, a fun crux with a cool stand up move. Easier if you're tall. The hold just above the crux is less than solid and may break eventually.

Thanks for putting hangers on this one. The route to the right is much harder than this one with the broken hold.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Photo
By: mlloyd When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: The black line has gone, it's 13 b/c with mostly easy climbing to one hard crux. Life After Death.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Peer 42 (5.13a)
By: mlloyd When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: Very good climbing, should be climbed more.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Extendogap (5.12c R)
By: mlloyd When: Apr 12, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for the props, Josh. I wonder who thought it broke? I felt like that one crux move was stout for 12c, so I assumed one of those holds crumbled or broke, but who knows? You're right about wondering who had/has climbed it, in Boulder there are so many secret crushers!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Photo
By: mlloyd When: Apr 5, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, the black line which I have started calling the "Life After Death" project is open, I cleaned it and added some bolts and my draws are on it ... but it's open. Anyone should and could try it. Just let me know if you send it. That way I can stop trying it like a maniac.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Photo
By: mlloyd When: Mar 31, 2013

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Comments: Ok, so work has begun up here again. I needed a break. I have finished equiping the black project on the far right of the wall. I also added a new start which climbs on better rock.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Extendogap (5.12c R)
By: mlloyd When: Mar 17, 2013

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Comments: I got on this one today... it's hard... really hard. I'm excited to lead it. I think a few more TRs are in order. Maybe 13a. Has anyone climbed this thing since Josh? The guidebook says a hold has broken since the FFA.... My thoughts are this thing has gotten a bit more serious.

  • I fired this rig on TR today, looks like the crux is very hard if you're not tall. It weighs in at a 12a boulder problem to a ledge to a solid V7 move to sustained techy 11a. You can punch in a bunch of gear at the ...
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Cave Area : Stairway to Heaven (5.12a)
By: mlloyd When: Mar 13, 2013

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Comments:



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