Comments: I wanted to do the line sans bolts, but after top rope rehearsal (for the head-point), a method I have used to free solo up to 5.12d/13a, the sloper V8 crux at the 30 foot mark was unreasonable for me, the first ascentionist. The route would not be contribution to the climbing community, which is the end goal... crazy I know. As it stands now, the line is a very fun mid-13 that gets full winter sun. A nice addition to the canyon.
Comments: I tried this yesterday, and I think it's much harder than 12-. The moves on the first half are fun and pretty chill once you figure them out, the second half is a totally different story. There is a lot of lichen on the left side of the arÍte, so I rapped down it to brush it off and some of the holds I was able to pull off with my hand. I'm going to go back and give it a solid effort today. Maybe 12+ maybe harder. Either way, I think the ground up ascent is very unlikely. In fact, it's almost a ... more >>
Comments: Thanks for the props, Josh. I wonder who thought it broke? I felt like that one crux move was stout for 12c, so I assumed one of those holds crumbled or broke, but who knows? You're right about wondering who had/has climbed it, in Boulder there are so many secret crushers!
Comments: Yeah, the black line which I have started calling the "Life After Death" project is open, I cleaned it and added some bolts and my draws are on it ... but it's open. Anyone should and could try it. Just let me know if you send it. That way I can stop trying it like a maniac.
Comments: Ok, so work has begun up here again. I needed a break. I have finished equiping the black project on the far right of the wall. I also added a new start which climbs on better rock. --- Invalid image id: 108064656 ---
Comments: I got on this one today... it's hard... really hard. I'm excited to lead it. I think a few more TRs are in order. Maybe 13a. Has anyone climbed this thing since Josh? The guidebook says a hold has broken since the FFA.... My thoughts are this thing has gotten a bit more serious.
I fired this rig on TR today, looks like the crux is very hard if you're not tall. It weighs in at a 12a boulder problem to a ledge to a solid V7 move to sustained techy 11a. You can punch in a bunch of gear at the ...