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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Hanging Judge (5.11c)
By: mlloyd When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Postcolonial Crag : Full Fathom Five (project) (5.12- V3-4 X)
By: mlloyd When: May 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I tried this yesterday, and I think it's much harder than 12-. The moves on the first half are fun and pretty chill once you figure them out, the second half is a totally different story. There is a lot of lichen on the left side of the arête, so I rapped down it to brush it off and some of the holds I was able to pull off with my hand. I'm going to go back and give it a solid effort today. Maybe 12+ maybe harder. Either way, I think the ground up ascent is very unlikely. In fact, it's almost a ... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Red Tag Hag (5.12d)
By: mlloyd When: Apr 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I tried this one today after climbing micro chip... it's way harder than its neighbor. I feel the crux is quite burly. It goes but is more like V7/8. Look forward to hooking it up.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Micro Chip (5.13a)
By: mlloyd When: Apr 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Worth climbing, a fun crux with a cool stand up move. Easier if you're tall. The hold just above the crux is less than solid and may break eventually.
Thanks for putting hangers on this one. The route to the right is much harder than this one with the broken hold.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Photo
By: mlloyd When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The black line has gone, it's 13 b/c with mostly easy climbing to one hard crux. Life After Death.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Peer 42 (5.13a)
By: mlloyd When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very good climbing, should be climbed more.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Extendogap (5.12c R)
By: mlloyd When: Apr 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the props, Josh. I wonder who thought it broke? I felt like that one crux move was stout for 12c, so I assumed one of those holds crumbled or broke, but who knows? You're right about wondering who had/has climbed it, in Boulder there are so many secret crushers!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Photo
By: mlloyd When: Apr 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, the black line which I have started calling the "Life After Death" project is open, I cleaned it and added some bolts and my draws are on it ... but it's open. Anyone should and could try it. Just let me know if you send it. That way I can stop trying it like a maniac.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Photo
By: mlloyd When: Mar 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ok, so work has begun up here again. I needed a break. I have finished equiping the black project on the far right of the wall. I also added a new start which climbs on better rock.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Extendogap (5.12c R)
By: mlloyd When: Mar 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got on this one today... it's hard... really hard. I'm excited to lead it. I think a few more TRs are in order. Maybe 13a. Has anyone climbed this thing since Josh? The guidebook says a hold has broken since the FFA.... My thoughts are this thing has gotten a bit more serious.
- I fired this rig on TR today, looks like the crux is very hard if you're not tall. It weighs in at a 12a boulder problem to a ledge to a solid V7 move to sustained techy 11a. You can punch in a bunch of gear at the ...
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Cave Area : Stairway to Heaven (5.12a)
By: mlloyd When: Mar 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Valley Park : South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge : Don't Tell Mom (5.11a)
By: mlloyd When: Feb 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
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Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Herringbone Direct (5.12+ R)
By: mlloyd When: Feb 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
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Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) (5.12b PG13)
By: mlloyd When: Feb 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best routes on the wall, safe and full value. A must do if you like this style of climbing.
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Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Herringbone Direct (5.12+ R)
By: mlloyd When: Feb 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is short and pretty powerful. Luckily it's low to the ground.... I think this route is a good option for the free solo. Just a thought. Fun route.
thanks
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : East Draw : ... : Traverse (V6)
By: mlloyd When: Nov 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : East Draw : Center Ring Wall
By: mlloyd When: Nov 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A write up by Peter Beal: www.mountainsandwater.com/2008/12/east-draw.html.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : East Draw
By: mlloyd When: Nov 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A work in progress. Please contribute if you know more of the problems.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : East Draw : ... : Couch Potato (V6 X)
By: mlloyd When: Nov 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : The Incredible Hulk Boulder : Super Phrique (5.13a)
By: mlloyd When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The only good style on this route is to boulder it... just say'n.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : The Incredible Hulk Boulder : The Mutant (5.12a V4)
By: mlloyd When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : The Overhangover (5.13a)
By: mlloyd When: Nov 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: After firing this one and since it's a new route, I thought I would give my 2 cents on the grade.... The route is a hardish dihedral (lower crux) to a longish pumpy 5.11- to a hard scrunchy/yet reachy (the hand holds are far apart but the feet are super high) 3 move boulder problem. I don't know if it's my height, but that boulder problem felt super hard for me (V7/8) making the route feel a touch harder than Sonic or even Evil... just my thought. Very fun and great vision to the FA. Thanks aga... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : War On Freedom (5.13a/b)
By: mlloyd When: Oct 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty fun route with a hard move down low and a sustained finish, being tall really helps. I think if you avoid the dihedral it's about 13c (pretty contrived) but otherwise sits in the 13b range.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Left Wire : Right Side : Night Stick (5.11b)
By: mlloyd When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Left Wire : Getto Wall : Getto Curb (5.13a)
By: mlloyd When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tried this and found it chossy, contrived, and uninspiring... that doesn't mean it might not be cool for someone else. Just putting my 2 cents in. I appreciate the work that goes into putting these things up, just couldn't get into this thing.
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