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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Numbers Crag : Number 5 (5.12b)
By: MJW When: Apr 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Numbers 4 and 5 felt more like the original 11d rating to us the other day. Tough to on-sight but once sussed out are mid climb boulder problems. Both are really fun. I give the nod to Number 5 as the best out of the two.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Numbers Crag : Number 4 (5.12b)
By: MJW When: Apr 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Numbers 4 and 5 felt more like the original 11d rating to us the other day. Tough to on-sight but once sussed out are mid climb boulder problems. Both are really fun. I give the nod to Number 5 as the best out of the two.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Mr Choad's Wild Ride (5.11b)
By: MJW When: Apr 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really good!! Giant holds. One spot in the middle has smaller than average holds and is a bit reachy. Hang tough here, crank thru, and the holds get really good again. Fire to the top.....sick!!!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : La Cierta Edad (5.10d)
By: MJW When: Apr 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this one the other day....pretty good.
Pitch 2 - 5.9+ Fun/tricky chimney. Be careful pulling out of it up higher. Loads of rotten rock and your belayer is right below all of it!
Pitch 3 - 5.10a. Cool stemming and jamming. Good pro. Classic
Pitch 4 - 5.10a. Plug your big cam in the wide crack above the belay. I had a #5 WC flex friend. Pull a(one) lieback move with pro at your waist and hike your feet up to a giant foothold. The rest of the pitch is a yawner and very easy. IMO pitc... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Eagle Dance (5.10 A1)
By: MJW When: Apr 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route the other day.....really fun! We found all bolts to be in good shape...no loose hangers, etc. I found both 'crux' pitches to be no harder than 10b. The upper/last crux pitch has a runout between the 2nd and 3rd bolt which protects with whatever gear you brought up to protect the lower sections. I didn't think the rock quality on this pitch was as bad as advertised. Yes, it was a bit sandy in spots and some of the holds are ready to snap but there are bolts/pro every 8ft so enjoy t... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : North Fin : The Edge of Da-light (5.10)
By: MJW When: Dec 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 11- variation is quite good. Steep face climbing with crack gear. At least 3 stars IMO.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Mean Mistreater Wall : Feelin' Fertile (5.10c/d PG13)
By: MJW When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Link this into Pegasus(upper headwall) for the full value old-school pitch. The rock and moves on Pegasus are brilliant.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: MJW When: Oct 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the route yesterday....AWESOME! We moved fast but were held up a bit by a party in front and started late. Did the walk-off in the dark. We were able to get down to the saddle behind Whiskey Peak before it got dark. Straightforward from there. Could be trickier doing the upper part of the decent in the dark but there are alot of carins. Thx to all who stacked rocks! Only brought 1 rope...rapping the route looks like a PITA. Rack = TCU's 0,1,2, set of stoppers, camalots(.5,.75,1,doubles of 2,... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Ixtlan (5.11c)
By: MJW When: Oct 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch is a good sport route to round out your day if time is short .The 12a sport route to the right is really good too.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Alcohol Wall : Gin Ricky (5.10c)
By: MJW When: Oct 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ditto on the comments above. I used triples on 0 and 1 TCU's. Much of the crack is parallel so placing nuts is a bit trickier in these sections. Great route to push yourself on as the pro is good and you can get it anywhere you want.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Slot Machine (5.10)
By: MJW When: Oct 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good one! Good holds and stances appear when in doubt. I used small nuts and tcu's on the headwall part. Didn't need the brass.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Y2K (5.10a)
By: MJW When: Oct 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 1st pitch: 5.7 buckets to a 5.9+/10a move over the roof...more 5.7
2nd pitch: 5.7+ .Climb straight over the belay for the best rock and experience. There is good pro up and giant holds up there until you get to the first bolt.Stays easy! The rock to either side is chossy.
3rd pitch: Do the traverse into the corner. One bolt for the belay in the corner. Med cams for backup if you wish.
4th pitch: 5.7 fun climbing to the end of the corner. Maybe a 5.8 move up there? Good, small wire pro from big s... more >>
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Green Tide (5.11a R)
By: MJW When: Oct 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Your description is right on the mark. Not a better feeling exists when you clip that upper bolt. Seems to get harder as you get further into the runout. Thought the upper crux mantle was a 10c move itself. Awesome route!!!!!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : The Rampart Rage (5.12d)
By: MJW When: Oct 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stunning...except for the junky cold shut bolts.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : Ball Bearing (5.10a)
By: MJW When: May 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch is barely 5.9 with outstanding pro. Bring 4-5 long runners up with you. Got to go 2-3 moves above your gear to get to the belay. Second pitch is 10a...little funky and good!!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : The Bendix Claws (5.11a)
By: MJW When: May 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Outstanding route with loads of good gear. Mostly TCU's and wired's. I was greeted at the top by a giant Chuckwalla 3 feet from my head whilst zoning out at the belay!! I found it barely 11a. Good route for a 5.10 leader to take a stab at.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Cling Or Fling Corridor : Cling Or Fling (5.11a)
By: MJW When: May 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also found the loss of anchor on these routes to be a PITA. Really absurd to have a fully bolted route w/o a bolted anchor. This seems to be common throughout the park. Instead, lets have people do repetitive walk-offs destroying vegetation?
The anchor on Colorado Crack is mank but currently backed up by a long, fresh sling and rap ring donated by a generous soul.
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