Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Dreamweaver (M2-3)
By: Mitch Musci When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What Scott said, except now there is ice at the cruxes. Still alot of snow for this time of year, give 'er another week and it could be a solid ice runnel!
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Crestone Peak / North Pilla... (5.8 R) : Photo
By: Mitch Musci When: Jan 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: George, thanks for your comments and I agree: the depicted route is a bit confusing with that alternate belay. To clarify, this topo shows our route and how we got side-tracked with the beta to veer right after the crux. I guess I just wanted to include what NOT to do in this photo. Also, after reading more comments it is probably a better idea to take the left of the two prominent cracks for P1.
|
Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Little Egypt : Frontier, right side : ... : Photo
By: Mitch Musci When: Dec 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Adam - thanks for all your great contributions to the site. Say, that belayer looks familiar.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Warm-Up Handcrack (5.10+)
By: Mitch Musci When: Oct 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: In regards to my comment on the death block...I remember pulling on the top of it when I first encountered it and the whole thing moved about an inch outward. My partner and I even considered trundling it at the time but left it alone figuring 1. its part of the desert climbing experience and 2. it would have made a TON of noise. Perhaps since then it has settled into a more stable position? Hard to say, and I'm glad other people feel it's safer than I made it out to be because this is a killer ... more >>
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Ironclads : Ironsides : Alloy Madness (5.10d)
By: Mitch Musci When: Jun 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great climb to do in one pitch (where else in the Estes Valley can you find a route with 17 clips?) This was definitely the most sustained of the 5.10s on the cliff, though the cruxes of all 3 seemed about the same difficulty. The crux traverse may involve the most powerful moves, but I feel was easier to solve than the slab moves above. The route is bolted very well, no need for additional protection. One of those anchor bolts at the top could use a tightening!
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Vision Quest (5.10d PG13)
By: Mitch Musci When: Apr 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Question about pitch 4: we climbed THROUGH a tight squeeze that separates the two summits, then climbed toward the north summit from the backside. The climbing seemed reasonable though ill-protected and worked out just fine, but I am still unsure if this is the actual route. Does this sound right or do you head up BEFORE squeezing between the two summits (I remember I had to take gear off my harness and hand it to my partner before I could fit through the squeeze)
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Vision Quest (5.10d PG13) : Photo
By: Mitch Musci When: Apr 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice pic, I followed this pitch and remember thinking that pro in the back of that OW (as pictured here) seemed marginal due to the rock quality. I guess you take what you can get!
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10)
By: Mitch Musci When: Apr 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree, the crux is solid 5.10 with bad finger locks and strenuous stemming (keep your eyes open for hidden holds). The initial moves are protected by a great stopper, but placing gear in the business is tricky.
|
Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon/Pratt's Cra... : ... : Photo
By: Mitch Musci When: Mar 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember slinging some suspect chockstones...and doing alot of walking with the #6 friend. Actually there is good friction on the edge of the crack most of the way, but still some mandatory heel-toeing. Sweet!
|
Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Cut the Rope Wall : All Things Ninja (5.12c)
By: Mitch Musci When: Mar 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmm this feels a bit soft after I onsighted it, even with cheeeese short-roping me at the crux. I'd post a picture but the camera I had clipped to my harness on the ascent broke the gear loop it was so heavy. I ended up chopping the anchors but left the route because well Kipp is my friend.
|
Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Little Egypt : Frontier, left side : ... : Photo
By: Mitch Musci When: Mar 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: dude I love pizza how did you know?
|
Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilk Crags : ... : Photo
By: Mitch Musci When: Mar 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe it's just me but I thought 10d was soft for this short but pleasant route. I say 10b, any takers?
|
Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilk Crags : ... : Dr. Zyme (5.10a)
By: Mitch Musci When: Mar 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree, tricky start...actually I took my first ground fall on this bitch when I blew a small wire 4 ft off the ground and landed on my ass! Thanks for posting Adam!
|
Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Druid Stones : Skye Stone : ... : Photo
By: Mitch Musci When: Mar 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Look at those holds! A dinosaur must have died on this rock a long time ago.
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Little Matterhorn : North Pillar (5.8)
By: Mitch Musci When: Sep 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tracy -
Pitches 1, 2, and 4 felt like 5.7 and the 3rd pitch crux felt like 5.8 with excellent protection (medium Friends and stoppers). The first two pitches are about 140ft and the last two about 100ft. As I mentioned in the description, the 2nd pitch does not have a whole lot of protection once you gain the pillar, but with a keen eye you can keep it pretty safe (sling horns, small nuts, etc). Feel free to post your findings as I don't know anyone else who has done the route!
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Second Buttress Tour (5.9)
By: Mitch Musci When: Aug 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another great variation goes up the right side of the giant prow in the middle of the wall instead of the left (Culp Bossier). We belayed just above the 5.9 dihedral of "in-between" rather than continuing to the giant belay ledge. This is an incredible linkup and offers steep climbing on big holds!
Lieback a nice flake in white rock up and right of the belay and climb through steep terrain with good holds. Continue up through a wide crack and set a belay below steep cracks (5.8 165ft). The next... more >>
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Prospect Mountain : The Needle : South Face (5.7)
By: Mitch Musci When: Jun 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is definitely old school 5.7 - the holds aren't that good and the feet are tricky. Still a nice line.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Prospect Mountain : The Needle : Suburban Hangover (5.10c)
By: Mitch Musci When: Jun 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first bolt is a bit high, but there is a nice jug to clip off of. Just gun for it and have a good spotter.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : On the Up and Up (5.10)
By: Mitch Musci When: Nov 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: An incredible line and well worth the slog up to the base (approach trails are intermittent and loose). For those looking for a straight-in wide hands crack, this (imo) is on par with Supercrack.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Warm-Up Handcrack (5.10+)
By: Mitch Musci When: Nov 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Surprised nobody mentioned it yet...as of Fall 2005 there was a heinous death block about 25 feet up the climb (approx. 6 feet x 4 feet) that easily wobbled. I found it impossible to avoid without placing a gold Camalot above it and yarding on the cam. There was lots of chalk behind this block - please think twice before manteling on this beast.
|
Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Santa Cruz (5.8)
By: Mitch Musci When: Oct 29, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this line to be enjoyable with nice cracks and good feet. I remember the pro was kinda funky in spots, with the crack opening up in the back.
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va... : Creede : North Clear Creek Falls (WI3-4)
By: Mitch Musci When: Dec 6, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I take back what i said about evan cause he is defiantly not gay (I know). I still don't know anything about these ice screws so i think i might just throw them away or something along those lines. Well i think i'm going to go fondle my sweaters or hump the refrigerator. Happy Climbing!
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va... : Creede : North Clear Creek Falls (WI3-4)
By: Mitch Musci When: Dec 5, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, so I accompanied myself (as mentioned below) to North Clear Creek Falls last week. Turns out my friend Evan Horst, who posted under my name, is feeling a bit uneasy about ice screws and perhaps his own masculinity. If anybody could reassure him that its OK to come out of the closet, that would be great. Evan, I promise I will still be your friend.
...and everything that Evan posted sounds about right.
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va... : Creede : North Clear Creek Falls (WI3-4)
By: Mitch Musci When: Nov 28, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just went to North Clear Creek Falls on Saturday and it was defiantly still running. However, the right side is climbable and maybe the left side. Its still raging in the middle so look out for that. And i got these ice srews but i don't know how they work. If anyone knows how to place or use an ice screw could you please e-mail or let me know. thanks
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Crestone Peak / North Pilla... (5.8 R)
By: Mitch Musci When: Sep 20, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route on 9/19/04 and had a few comments to add. For the approach, follow the Colony Lakes trail and head left around the southern end of upper South Colony Lake. Continue northwest above the lake and through the drainage, finally heading up towards the base of the obvious north pillar near the head of the valley. The first pitch is the right of the two most obvious crack/flake features on the east face of the pillar, though the flake on the left looks climbable as well. Some things ... more >>
|
RSS Feed
