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Member Since: Dec 5, 2007
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
Contact MisterE

Point Rank: # 1,241
Total Points: 548
Last Year: 129
Last 30 Days: 14
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 270 | Routes 26 | Areas 1 | Photos 42 | Page Improvements | Comments 63 | Posts 69 | Stars 64 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Frank (5.9)
By: MisterE When: 1 day ago

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Comments: This is one of the best 5.9's I have done in the Gorge besides Slip'n Slide.

Great moves, steep and pretty straight-forward climbing.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Stella (5.8+)
By: MisterE When: 1 day ago

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Comments: The bolting is terrible for the follower - looking at a pendulum into the slope to the right if you fall early (THE CRUX).

I give this route 1 star, a re-bolt might deserve a second one.

The whole climb as a sum is kind of Meh, with a few unique features that off-set the obvious rap-bolted Mehs


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (i) The Fourth Horsemen : No Golf Shoes (Start) (5.10c)
By: MisterE When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Did you have to add this redundant route listing? It is already in the system - I submitted the entire route (as two separate pitches with descriptions/ratings for each) in 2008 to this site. It's NOT an offwidth - it is a chimney.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Fashion Slab : Orange-Mocha Frappuccino (5.10a)
By: MisterE When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: Skip and I love this climb! Fun, varied, long and enjoyable the whole way. One of the best mixed .10a's we have done in a while! The protection is bomber, the bolts are well-placed, and the crux is super fun! Thanks, Todd and Amy!
Side-note: I never used the #2 or #3 on the rack.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Fashion Slab : Merman (5.7)
By: MisterE When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: A really fun route! The first bolt is a bit far off the ground without pro for your aspiring 5.7 climber! ;^)
I lead this one in 1 long pitch w/longer runners and the rope drag wasn't bad at all. I only placed 2 pieces of gear, a #2 and a yellow TCU at the top.

The wife tied in and lowered me until she was tight and "weighted climbed" until I was on the ground (25 feet or so). She then did two raps off. Pretty straight-forward.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Fashion Slab : Finger Jockey (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Another fun route! The hero jug and perfect foothold at the first roof are exceptional! The crux is interesting, as well. Thanks Todd and Amy!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Fashion Slab : Catwalk (5.10a)
By: MisterE When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Fun, long route - about 40+ meters! Enjoyable climbing with great position!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Fashion Slab : Prada (5.8)
By: MisterE When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Nice long easy climb with a short crux - fun!

Again, it felt a little easier to me - 5.7? - but reachy for my wife. These routes are longer than they look!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Fashion Slab : Finnish Dwarf (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Good climb!

It felt more like 5.8 to me, but 5.9 to my wife who is shorter than I.There is a right undercling starting the crux that is shrubby, a little trimming might be in order...Thanks for the routes, Todd!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl : ... : The Fall Line (5.10d)
By: MisterE When: Jun 20, 2015

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Comments: Pretty squeezed bolt line - and, as stated natural protection is readily available right next to bolts.

Additionally, the forced bolt-line to the left at the crux makes it even more contrived - since it re-joins Stoic Tree Arete both there and at the anchors.

That being said, it has some fun moves - but should have just been left as the obvious top-rope or trad-lead route that it originally intended to be.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : The Watchtower (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Jun 13, 2015

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Comments: Another good option - available here in Bishop!

fixehardware.com/shop/carabine...


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Caldera (5.11c)
By: MisterE When: May 23, 2015

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Comments: I personally have seen a hammer and a sickle in the author's truck. Draw your own conclusions. %^)


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Pocket Dance (5.10c)
By: MisterE When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: ^^One could easily place a piece of GEAR *shudder*, if one was not comfortable with the initia part.

%^)

Thanks for the suggestion, Susan!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Son of Belayer Slayer (5.10a PG13)
By: MisterE When: May 6, 2015

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Comments: Just did this climb today for the first time - what a long, fun route. Highly varied with fun moves and great holds!
One of our favorite 5.10a routes we have done in the Gorge!

Thanks!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Crusher (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Apr 25, 2015

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Comments: Deleted picture, caption and comment of mine?

I will repeat my comment: Thanks for putting up a new route! Will definitely check it out!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Photo
By: MisterE When: Apr 25, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the new route! I will definitely go check it out!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Three Hour Buttress : StrikeSlip (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Apr 19, 2015

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Comments: 2 pitch direct Slipstrike/3 Hour Arete hybrid:
Combines the best moderate pitches of both routes. This is the best way to get the most bang for your buck out of this formation in our humble opinion, as well as the fastest option. (1) 70 meter rope absolutely necessary (as Todd noted above).

P1 Climb the slippery bolted dihedral to an obvious crack. Stay left of bush at bulge (gear protected) . Mantle bulge, clip long draw on the anchor and keep going! Stay left and climb directly up... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Double Flipper (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Mar 19, 2015

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Comments: Yes, traverse RIGHT at the ledge. Someone has added bolts in the dihedral directly above (probably for a link-up), and they look on-route because it is hard to see the last two bolts out to the right that lead to the anchor for Double Flipper.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : String of Pearls (5.8)
By: MisterE When: Mar 14, 2015

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Comments: This is our new favorite warm-up! RReally fun route!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : ... : Photo
By: MisterE When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: Nice time-lapse!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : Lower Elbow Room
By: MisterE When: Jan 29, 2015

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Comments: Spent half a day building steps from Phoenix to the Slip 'n Slide platform today - about 50-55 rock steps now instead of slippery scree slope.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Slip 'n Slide (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: The badly worn open shuts have been replaced with Mussy Hooks as of January 22, 2015.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Phoenix (5.7)
By: MisterE When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: Replaced the worn open shuts with Mussy hooks on January 18th, 2015.

Worn anchors on Phoenix
Worn anchors on Phoenix



Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Red Pillar left (5.11)
By: MisterE When: Nov 23, 2014

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Comments: FA: Bloom/Wolfe 2009.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Pocket Dance (5.10c)
By: MisterE When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: Just got on this climb for the first time today - one of the best of the grade in the gorge. Bring a longer draw if you are going to clip the bolt off to the left at the start of Rim Job to reduce rope drag. Really fun and varied with two good rests!


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