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Member Since: Dec 5, 2007
Last Visit: 30 mins ago
Contact MisterE

Point Rank: # 1,018
Total Points: 735
Last Year: 227
Last 30 Days: 12
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has MisterE been climbing?










Contributions


All 328 | Routes 34 | Areas 2 | Photos 58 | Page Improvements | Comments 75 | Posts 72 | Stars 81 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Photo
By: MisterE When: 1 day ago

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Comments: This topo is a bit off. Bust A Move goes right and up through the roof and Big Screen is around the corner on the far right.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Java Wall : Caffeine (5.11a)
By: MisterE When: Jan 13, 2016

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Comments: Replaced the anchors on Caffeine Tuesday, January 12, 2016. The hardened steel of the Dracos should hold out significantly longer than open-shuts or Mussys, and the switch-out is easier now with the ASCA hanger/SS quick-link configuration.

Due to some bad rock quality issues, the new anchors are in the nearest solid rock slightly below the old open-shuts. Doesn't change the finish.

Please use your own draws for top-roping!

Rock Climbing Photo: New ASCA anchors on Caffeine.
New ASCA anchors on Caffeine.


Some young strong locals have promised to ret... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : High Seas (5.7)
By: MisterE When: Dec 23, 2015

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Comments: Replaced the worn Mussy hooks with Fixe Draco carabiners and SS quick links.

Also, tightened the left anchor bolt that was loose.

Thanks to the ASCA for the gear!


Rock Climbing Photo: Dracos and back-up
Dracos and back-up



Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Crowd Pleaser (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Dec 20, 2015

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Comments: Replaced the worn Mussy Hooks with Fixe Dracos and stainless steel quick-links on Thursday. I will bring gear this week to tighten up the anchor bolts, as well a a couple of hangers.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (i) The Fourth Horsemen : No Golf Shoes (5.11a)
By: MisterE When: Nov 18, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, Jason - I just added you to the FA team - thanks for the reminder.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Paradise (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: Replaced the steel oval 'biners at the anchors today with hardened steel Fixe Draco's.

Thanks ASCA!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Wall Flower/Welcome link-up... (5.8)
By: MisterE When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, Jeff - I will add that to the description.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Proud Mary (5.10c/d)
By: MisterE When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Crossing an established line is pretty weak-sauce, but grid-bolt as you see fit.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : Racing Lizards (5.7)
By: MisterE When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: You canNOT rap the first pitch with a 70m unless you are wiling to downclimb the chimney BTW. Found out the hard way. Bring doubles for this route.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : OJ Buttress : Jersey Tan (5.10c)
By: MisterE When: Sep 30, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, Jeff! I will check the bolts next trip up there.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Al's Garage : Middle Way (5.10a)
By: MisterE When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: So I will describe the upper crux sequence - this may be a spoiler for some, but probably not very many:

Climb a run-out to a huge bird's nest. Clip a bolt then gain a stance under a bulge. Crimp the two wet, mouse-pissed edges (also littered with shit-pellets) to gain an undercling. Move past this to an arete move to get through the bulge, then throw a knee-lock to gain the bird-shit blanketed chimney moves above.

Other than that the climbing was fun.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilk Crags : ... : Miles From Nowhere (5.9 R)
By: MisterE When: Aug 27, 2015

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Comments: Did this climb today. It is like 5.10a PG13, in our opinion.

We did not encounter ANY issues with rope drag on the first bolt. There are not enough bolts to have rope drag of any kind!

A fall above the 3rd bolt would be long but clean due to the steep nature of the route.

I could not find the gear placement Greg Barnes talks about, but 20' up from the last bolt one can sling a bomber horn with a dyneema sling before climbing the last section to the anchors.

Really fun climbing with great s... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Frank (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: This is one of the best 5.9's I have done in the Gorge besides Slip'n Slide.

Great moves, steep and pretty straight-forward climbing.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Stella (5.8+)
By: MisterE When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: The bolting is terrible for the follower - looking at a pendulum into the slope to the right if you fall early (THE CRUX).

I give this route 1 star, a re-bolt might deserve a second one.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (i) The Fourth Horsemen : No Golf Shoes (Start) (5.10c)
By: MisterE When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: Did you have to add this redundant route listing? It is already in the system - I submitted the entire route (as two separate pitches with descriptions/ratings for each) in 2008 to this site. It's NOT an offwidth - it is a chimney.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Fashion Slab : Orange-Mocha Frappuccino (5.10a)
By: MisterE When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: Skip and I love this climb! Fun, varied, long and enjoyable the whole way. One of the best mixed .10a's we have done in a while! The protection is bomber, the bolts are well-placed, and the crux is super fun! Thanks, Todd and Amy!
Side-note: I never used the #2 or #3 on the rack.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Fashion Slab : Merman (5.7)
By: MisterE When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: A really fun route! The first bolt is a bit far off the ground without pro for your aspiring 5.7 climber! ;^)
I lead this one in 1 long pitch w/longer runners and the rope drag wasn't bad at all. I only placed 2 pieces of gear, a #2 and a yellow TCU at the top.

The wife tied in and lowered me until she was tight and "weighted climbed" until I was on the ground (25 feet or so). She then did two raps off. Pretty straight-forward.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Fashion Slab : Finger Jockey (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Another fun route! The hero jug and perfect foothold at the first roof are exceptional! The crux is interesting, as well. Thanks Todd and Amy!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Fashion Slab : Catwalk (5.10a)
By: MisterE When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Fun, long route - about 40+ meters! Enjoyable climbing with great position!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Fashion Slab : Prada (5.8)
By: MisterE When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Nice long easy climb with a short crux - fun!

Again, it felt a little easier to me - 5.7? - but reachy for my wife. These routes are longer than they look!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Fashion Slab : Finnish Dwarf (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Good climb!

It felt more like 5.8 to me, but 5.9 to my wife who is shorter than I.There is a right undercling starting the crux that is shrubby, a little trimming might be in order...Thanks for the routes, Todd!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl : ... : The Fall Line (5.10d)
By: MisterE When: Jun 20, 2015

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Comments: Pretty squeezed bolt line - and, as stated natural protection is readily available right next to bolts.

Additionally, the forced bolt-line to the left at the crux makes it even more contrived - since it re-joins Stoic Tree Arete both there and at the anchors.

That being said, it has some fun moves - but should have just been left as the obvious top-rope or trad-lead route that it originally intended to be.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : The Watchtower (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Jun 13, 2015

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Comments: Another good option - available here in Bishop!

fixehardware.com/shop/carabine...


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Caldera (5.11c)
By: MisterE When: May 23, 2015

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Comments: I personally have seen a hammer and a sickle in the author's truck. Draw your own conclusions. %^)


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Pocket Dance (5.10c)
By: MisterE When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: ^^One could easily place a piece of GEAR *shudder*, if one was not comfortable with the initia part.

%^)

Thanks for the suggestion, Susan!


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