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Member Since: Dec 5, 2007
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
Contact MisterE

Point Rank: # 804
Total Points: 950
Last Year: 436
Last 30 Days: 23
11 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has MisterE been climbing?










Contributions


All 394 | Routes 46 | Areas 2 | Photos 75 | Page Improvements | Comments 85 | Posts 75 | Stars 104 | Ratings 7
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Oak Creek Canyon : Cave Springs : The Old School Routes : Lucky Goes to the Creamery (5.11 X)
By: MisterE When: 22 hours ago

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Comments: Awesome story, Paul! I edited the FA list.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : Pink Face
By: MisterE When: Apr 17, 2016

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Comments: We have recently added a kid & pet-friendly crossing (just below the Narrows), and 7 new routes to this area. The new climbs are moderate (from 5.3 to 5.10b), making "Pink Face Area" an even better beginner area.

Please stay on established trails.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Fraggle Rock (5.3)
By: MisterE When: Apr 5, 2016

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Comments: Fraggle Rock is right off the Lower Gorge road and the kid/pet-friendly crossing to Pink Wall. It has most of the elements of the ORG found in the more difficult climbs: sloping edges, fun incuts - and finishes with easy eyebrows to the anchors.

A great introduction to the type of climbing found in the gorge for the beginning climber, non-climbing friend or family outing with the youngsters.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Coming Attractions (5.8)
By: MisterE When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: As BAd stated, we replaced the worn open-shuts with Mussy Hooks. We were able to re-use the far right bolt, and added one more bolt to the right of that - making the anchor clip a little easier.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Bonus Features (5.7)
By: MisterE When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: Added 2 fixed pins to protect the start (see photo), as well as new anchors in a more direct line (Mussy Hooks).


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Oak Creek Canyon : Cave Springs : The Doctor's Office : Excited Delirium (5.12+)
By: MisterE When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: Glad this burly rig got sent! Good job Gentlemen!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Desert Shield (5.11a C3) : Photo
By: MisterE When: Feb 26, 2016

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Comments: Pabstnado.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Photo
By: MisterE When: Feb 14, 2016

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Comments: ^^Thanks for the heads-up - we will check them occasionally. They certainly wear longer than the Mussy's (which have their own gate issues, as well).

Fixe Hardware is in Bishop where I live - like 5 blocks away. Pretty sure they will be there for issues with anchor replacement hardware.

Erik


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Peking Duck (5.10d)
By: MisterE When: Feb 14, 2016

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Comments: Anchors replaced this morning by John M and I, thanks to Marty Lewis and the ASCA for the anchor equipment!

mountainproject.com/v/11162067...


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Photo
By: MisterE When: Feb 14, 2016

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Comments: Topo is actually a bit inaccurate.. may want to revise it.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Photo
By: MisterE When: Feb 4, 2016

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Comments: This topo is a bit off. Bust A Move goes right and up through the roof and Big Screen is around the corner on the far right.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Java Wall : Caffeine (5.11a/b)
By: MisterE When: Jan 13, 2016

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Comments: Replaced the anchors on Caffeine Tuesday, January 12, 2016. The hardened steel of the Dracos should hold out significantly longer than open-shuts or Mussys, and the switch-out is easier now with the ASCA hanger/SS quick-link configuration.

Due to some bad rock quality issues, the new anchors are in the nearest solid rock slightly below the old open-shuts. Doesn't change the finish.

Please use your own draws for top-roping!

Some young strong locals have promised to return and extract t... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : High Seas (5.7)
By: MisterE When: Dec 23, 2015

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Comments: Replaced the worn Mussy hooks with Fixe Draco carabiners and SS quick links.

Also, tightened the left anchor bolt that was loose.

Thanks to the ASCA for the gear!


Rock Climbing Photo: Dracos and back-up
Dracos and back-up



Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Crowd Pleaser (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Dec 20, 2015

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Comments: Replaced the worn Mussy Hooks with Fixe Dracos and stainless steel quick-links on Thursday. I will bring gear this week to tighten up the anchor bolts, as well a a couple of hangers.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (i) The Fourth Horsemen : No Golf Shoes (5.11a)
By: MisterE When: Nov 18, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, Jason - I just added you to the FA team - thanks for the reminder.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Paradise (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: Replaced the steel oval 'biners at the anchors today with hardened steel Fixe Draco's.

Thanks ASCA!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Wall Flower/Welcome link-up... (5.8)
By: MisterE When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, Jeff - I will add that to the description.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Proud Mary (5.10c/d)
By: MisterE When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Crossing an established line is pretty weak-sauce, but grid-bolt as you see fit.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : Racing Lizards (5.7)
By: MisterE When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: You canNOT rap the first pitch with a 70m unless you are wiling to downclimb the chimney BTW. Found out the hard way. Bring doubles for this route.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : OJ Buttress : Jersey Tan (5.10c)
By: MisterE When: Sep 30, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, Jeff! I will check the bolts next trip up there.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Al's Garage : Middle Way (5.10a)
By: MisterE When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: So I will describe the upper crux sequence - this may be a spoiler for some, but probably not very many:

Climb a run-out to a huge bird's nest. Clip a bolt then gain a stance under a bulge. Crimp the two wet, mouse-pissed edges (also littered with shit-pellets) to gain an undercling. Move past this to an arete move to get through the bulge, then throw a knee-lock to gain the bird-shit blanketed chimney moves above.

Other than that the climbing was fun.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilk Crags : ... : Miles From Nowhere (5.9 R)
By: MisterE When: Aug 27, 2015

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Comments: Did this climb today. It is like 5.10a PG13, in our opinion.

We did not encounter ANY issues with rope drag on the first bolt. There are not enough bolts to have rope drag of any kind!

A fall above the 3rd bolt would be long but clean due to the steep nature of the route.

I could not find the gear placement Greg Barnes talks about, but 20' up from the last bolt one can sling a bomber horn with a dyneema sling before climbing the last section to the anchors.

Really fun climbing with great s... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Frank (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: This is one of the best 5.9's I have done in the Gorge besides Slip'n Slide.

Great moves, steep and pretty straight-forward climbing.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Stella (5.8+)
By: MisterE When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: The bolting is terrible for the follower - looking at a pendulum into the slope to the right if you fall early (THE CRUX).

I give this route 1 star, a re-bolt might deserve a second one.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (i) The Fourth Horsemen : No Golf Shoes (Start) (5.10c)
By: MisterE When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: Did you have to add this redundant route listing? It is already in the system - I submitted the entire route (as two separate pitches with descriptions/ratings for each) in 2008 to this site. It's NOT an offwidth - it is a chimney.


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