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Member Since: Dec 5, 2007
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
Contact MisterE


Point Rank: # 1,322
Total Points: 469
Last Year: 72
Last 30 Days: 3
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has MisterE been climbing?










Contributions


All 202 | Routes 25 | Areas 1 | Photos 33 | Page Improvements | Comments 39 | Posts 62 | Stars 39 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : Photo
By: MisterE When: 6 days ago

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Comments: I believe that is looking up from the anchors at the TOP of pitch 3 and the climber is on pitch 4?


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Hot Pink Socks (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Oct 17, 2014

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Comments: So much fun, and really varied with a sting in the tail. - thanks for cleaning it up so well.

One of our favorite 5.9 sport climbs in the Upper. Excellent work!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Crocodile Rock : Competitive Edge (5.10a)
By: MisterE When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: Just did this one today. Really fun climb! Bring a bunch of small stoppers and small cams for the crux and flakes. I didn't even use a #1 the whole climb and I placed 14 pieces cuz I was gripped! Bring the 3" piece is for the anchors.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilk Crags : ... : Dr. Zyme (5.10a)
By: MisterE When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: Good gear in the first 10 feet, then it runs out just as the balancy crux hits. This climb would get way more traffic and be way more enjoyable with the addition of just one bolt at the 15-foot level (where the gear runs out at the crux).

I backed off because of ground-fall potential.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : B-Line (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: Replaced the badly worn anchors with 1/2" x 4" bolts and Fixe "Draco" Anchor system. Thanks to Greg Barnes and Fixe Hardware for the anchors!

Obviously, my wife had never used the Metolius PAS before...

New Draco anchors
New Draco anchors



Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : Bushwhacked (5.8)
By: MisterE When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: Replaced the badly worn original anchors with 1/2" X 4" bolts and Fixe rings. We left one of the original open-shuts to clip into for re-threading.

New anchors
New anchors



Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : The Sumac Route (5.8)
By: MisterE When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: Replaced the badly worn original anchors with 1/2" X 4" bolts and Fixe rings. We left one of the original open-shuts to clip into for re-threading. The stance is the same but the anchors are a bit lower in good rock.


New anchors
New anchors



Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Black Face : Blackballed (5.10b)
By: MisterE When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: Did this climb today after not getting on it for a couple of years.

There is a general loosening of the upper wall on this side, while the left side still seems solid. Flakes were coming off - and more disconcerting - some of the glued holds seem to be loosening and showing cracks in the rock/glue connection. This makes the committing initial sequence to get to the poorly-placed bolt to the right of the block even more intimidating and potentially dangerous.

Just be careful - we hope to get ou... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Stumbling Blocks : Guerilla Drilla (5.10a)
By: MisterE When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: The anchors were replaced this morning per Bill L's specifications with Fixe single-ring hangers.
Also tightened two other bolts on the route.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Double Clutching Wall : Thin Faith (5.13c)
By: MisterE When: Nov 15, 2013

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Comments: Man, I just love the energy that has been put into the Waterfall area in this millennium. Keep it rolling!


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Mt. Gorgeous : Luscious (5.11)
By: MisterE When: Nov 15, 2013

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Comments: Anchors replaced November 3 2013. Thanks to the ASCA and Fixe Hardware.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Mt. Gorgeous : ... : Photo
By: MisterE When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Thanks to the ASCA and Fixe Hardware for providing the new anchors.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Mt. Gorgeous : Delicious (5.10d)
By: MisterE When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: There are nice new Fixe hangers and fixed 'biners on the route as of a few months ago. Please do not top-rope off of the lower-out anchors.

Thanks Bill, Matt and KD for the much-needed replacements!


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Bum Steer (5.10a)
By: MisterE When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: The climb is a good one, but the anchors are jacked (now?) because the cold-links on the anchor lie flat against the rock. DO NOT THREAD THESE LINKS FOR A LOWER OR RAPPEL, thread the anchors directly and rappel.

Would someone PLEASE add a couple of 3/8" quick-links to this mess? We didn't have two with us or we would have.

I'll delete some of this when the fix is posted.

Erik


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Highway 38 Crags : Frustration Creek : Lower Tier : Super Soul Slab (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: I gave this route an "aviod" (bomb) because of the P.O. on the route. When and if this issue is resolved, I will change the rating to 3 stars.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : The Arsonist (5.11)
By: MisterE When: Jun 14, 2013

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Comments: Just a note to the FA team - amazing job and killer Trip Report.


Location: CA : High Desert : Devil's Punchbowl : South area : VD (Very Direct) Wall : Lower Bolt Route (5.10c/d)
By: MisterE When: May 8, 2013

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Comments: Mr E please don't deceive the climbing public with your mis info on a classic route..

Just reporting what is in the book, Jeff.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Photo
By: MisterE When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: That rock is total garbage - tried the 5.11/12 on the overhanging northwest face (pictured), and pulled multiple holds off. Every hold had grit rolling off my hands just for purchase.
Set up top-ropes on the easier north side, and again, the rock quality was horrible, even on seemingly similar slab angles. The quality of the ridge extrusion obviously changes dramatically within close proximity. Climbing (or mostly not climbing) this choss-fest reminds me of how clean the Corpse Wall formation i... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Last Dance (5.10d) : Photo
By: MisterE When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: Photo: David Blattel


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : The Tea Room : Darjeeling Extra Fancy (5.10c)
By: MisterE When: Mar 21, 2011

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Comments: Really fun on-sight. Slightly pumpy on mostly good rock. Cerebral moves and very little chalk made this climb memorable! Thanks - I liked this one!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Slide Rock State Park : The Center of Singularity (5.13b)
By: MisterE When: Apr 12, 2010

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Comments: First Ascent Rodney Blakemore (aka "Rodman") et al, 2003


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Ghetto Wall : Johnny Can't Lead (5.10d)
By: MisterE When: Oct 26, 2009

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Comments: As of today, the upper two bolts have been replaced, both with 1/2" X 3" bolts. The second bolt will be changed out soon.

The climb should be more enjoyable now without the spinners.

I agree with the .11a rating.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Eastern Chilliwack Range : Southeast Mox Peak (2,594m) : The Devils Club (5.11 X)
By: MisterE When: Feb 25, 2009

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Comments: Yes:

cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbt...

The revised grade is 5.11- X.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Pumphouse Wash : The Ultimates/Mexican Pocke... : Ultimate Frisbee (5.10+)
By: MisterE When: Feb 23, 2009

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Comments: Paul, our records indicate that the Ultimate Frisbee is on the West-facing wall between Ultimate OW and Ultimate Finger Crack.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Space Cowboys (5.11c PG13)
By: MisterE When: Dec 14, 2008

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Comments: Route Update:

We also added an additional bolt on the arete, avoiding the ramp makes it now fun 5.10 to gain the sloping ledge under the roof.

THE CRUX SIDE-CLING AT THE ROOF BROKE OFF, LEAVING A NICE EDGE, BUT A BIT EASIER. SEEMS TO BE 5.11B NOW


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