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Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area
By: Minesh Bacrania When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Drove up to the trad area this morning, after (I think) a big rainstorm yesterday afternoon. The road is very deeply rutted, and quite muddy in places. Our 4WD truck had no trouble, but I'm guessing we might have had some serious adventure if we had decided to take our Forester instead. Owners of small cars beware...
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Area 37 : Sending Data (5.9)
By: Minesh Bacrania When: Aug 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, it USED to be an enjoyable 5.8, way back in summer 2007. The 5.9(+?) move at the bottom kind of ruins the character of the route. I guess that's A37 for you.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : Unrelenting Nines (5.11c/d)
By: Minesh Bacrania When: Aug 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's the anguish-inducing hideousness I found up there on 8/1/2009:
www.mountainproject.com/v/new_mexico/los_alamos__white_rock/>>>
I'd rather see a couple of bolts up there than this mess.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : Bear Mountain Picnic Massac... (5.8) : Photo
By: Minesh Bacrania When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What's the purple sling above the climber clipped to? (I'd say it almost looks like a piton. But I sure didn't see it on the way up.)
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : Bear Mountain Picnic Massac... (5.8)
By: Minesh Bacrania When: May 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The excellent final pitch does make the climb. More chickenheads than you can shake a sling at!
I'd say that the crux involved protecting and getting into the final finger/hand crack.
I think it could be done in two pitches (i.e. same way as the rappel). It would probably be a good test of your rope management skills, though.
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Sugarite State Park : Little Horse Mesa : Great Roof Left (5.9)
By: Minesh Bacrania When: Oct 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gets steeper toward the top, but the gear at and after the roof is excellent and abundant. The roof is intimidating from the bottom, but eminently doable by a calm 5.8 leader....
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Sugarite State Park : Little Horse Mesa : Great Roof Right (5.10a)
By: Minesh Bacrania When: Oct 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely a one-move wonder....
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : South Rock : Yikes Dikes (5.8)
By: Minesh Bacrania When: Oct 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Per Greg Swift and Sharon Dogruel, the start for "Puddin" is the 10' crack (5.7ish) visible behind the small tree on the left side of Mark's picture. From there, head up the mellow slab (5.6, a little run out in one spot), and then up the left side of the butt. As George says, the third bolt comes just after the section of spicy bit of unprotected 5.8 slab, off to the right from the lower two.
I asked about the start heading up the easier right-facing dihedral, but they didn't have any beta on ... more >>
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Mama Jugs (5.8 PG13)
By: Minesh Bacrania When: Oct 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: An excellent route! Follow the line made by the pine tree propping the wall up and the tiny pine bush directly above it. The pro is somewhat thought-provoking, but didn't require any micronuts.
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Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area : Packrat Dihedral (5.6)
By: Minesh Bacrania When: Sep 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another fun variation: we aimed straight up P2 after rounding the roof at the start of P2. This variation was as wonderfully "airy" as the "aim left for the tree" option discussed above, but the climbing is enjoyable (no harder than 5.6), and there are a fair number of options for gear.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall area : Pie In Your Eye (5.6)
By: Minesh Bacrania When: Sep 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good first sport lead, and (as I discovered today) it can be led on gear. A #2 takes care of the bottom, and a couple of creative small nut placements can be had as well. Not really worth the hassle of hauling out the rack, though.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall area : Cow Flop Crack (5.8 PG13)
By: Minesh Bacrania When: Sep 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Placements are plentiful, but the rock is pretty sandy/filthy....
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall
By: Minesh Bacrania When: Sep 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A number of the steel 'biners have gone missing from the anchors. Some routes have one left, some routes have none. Maybe they were stolen by the same idiots who left their cigarette butts all over the base of the main wall?
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall : Planet of the Apes (5.8+)
By: Minesh Bacrania When: Sep 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awww, man. Someone's gone and ripped off the 'biners at the top.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+)
By: Minesh Bacrania When: Sep 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A most excellent introduction to desert tower climbing. Lots of mellow climbing to get to the last three or four pumpy crux moves (5.8).
Some comments:
We climbed over Labor Day weekend, topping out at 10:30AM. Everything below the last pitch was in the shade the entire time.
A light rack is all you need: singles of BD 0.5 - 4 cams, nothing smaller. Single (or less) set of small/med nuts. 2-3 tricams (black or smaller). Lots of shoulder-length slings.
First pitch seemed harder than I was le... more >>
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : New New Place : Unnamed (5.6)
By: Minesh Bacrania When: Aug 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Couple of committing moves at the bottom, but gear opportunities are everywhere. There's an excellent spot for a BD #4 if you want to carry one up.
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Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area : Shoes for Industry (5.8+)
By: Minesh Bacrania When: Aug 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gary Clark suggests: "Stay left in the upper part to keep the climb interesting."
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Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area : Swollen (5.7+ PG13)
By: Minesh Bacrania When: Aug 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent variation on the standard "Big E" route. Gear placements are a bit scarce for the easier climbing, but there's good (small) stuff where you need it.
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Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area : Packrat Dihedral (5.6)
By: Minesh Bacrania When: Sep 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route lives up to its name! Sounded like the packrat was doing its packrat thing in/under the pile of leaves/brush behind the big flake at the first belay.....
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