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Member Since: May 1, 2006
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has MikeS been climbing?


All 157 | Routes | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 27 | Posts 124 | Stars 3 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Sorry, this is too easy.

Sorry, this is too easy.

Forums : Climbing Gear Discussion : ... : Post

Oct 27, 2013

Contributed Comments


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Community Pillar (5.9)
By: MikeS When: Nov 4, 2015

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Comments: A double set to #3 Camalots and a single #4 was just about perfect for me on this route. Only the largest of cams or bros would protect many of the squeeze chimney sections. These feel quite secure and have the added benefit of many face holds.

Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Arch Enemy (5.9)
By: MikeS When: Nov 4, 2015

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Comments: To clarify a bit of smassey's comment:
I don't think Arch Enemy could be rapped from the top of the finger crack/Solar Slab p3 chains with a single 60m.
It's a 35m rap climbers' left to the second belay stance. From here a 60m would work per his beta. Bring a 70m.

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Y Couloir (Right Branch)
By: MikeS When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Update to Brian's above post for the skiers. At this time, one cannot safely rap the ice chimney with a single 60m rope. A 70m will get you below the vertical ice, with a bit of easy downclimbing to a safe zone below the chimney. Two 60s would be ideal to quickly get you out of the firing line. The fixed anchor at the top of the chimney consists of two well-placed pitons in good rock.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Captain Beyond (5.10c)
By: MikeS When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: Bring a knife, if you think, of it to clean up the rap anchors. They are becoming so filled with tat that it's hard to thread the ropes through...wish I could have fixed them today but didn't have one with me. There is plenty of good material to leave, as well as plenty of junk to clean. Thank you!

Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Buckshot (5.10b)
By: MikeS When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: Good route. Doing this in two pitches is easy with a bit of attention to rope drag on P1. If it's near your limit, triple #3 Camalots would not be a bad idea for P2. Neither would tape.....
An old size #4 was good to have on both pitches.
And most importantly, if you plan to rap the route to the climbers' left (Squash? three raps w/one rope), bring a knife and some cord or webbing to spruce up the anchors. There's a ton of old and faded stuff up there that needs to be cut away and re... more >>

Location: CO : Independence Pass : ICBJ Boulder : ICBJ (V6)
By: MikeS When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: FA John Sherman. Know what it stands for?

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : ... : Bullet (WI3+ M6+)
By: MikeS When: Dec 7, 2011

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Comments: Climbed this route today. Fun and challenging rock climbing with tools. A couple of comments: we found a single rack from green C3 to #3, small/med nuts, and 3 ice screws to be plenty sufficient. We did, however, climb right of the offwidth. No pins necessary. Gear through the traverse is great (I tested it).
Also, we removed the fixed anchor at the top of the pitch and moved it ~20m climbers' left, to the base of the big dihedral.
The two pins (both short KBs) that constituted the establi... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Country Club Crack (5.11c)
By: MikeS When: Oct 6, 2011

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Comments: My 60m makes it down to the first AF anchor with none to spare. Tie knots.

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal
By: MikeS When: Sep 21, 2011

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Comments: How late in the season can one reasonably expect to climb here?

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Paiute Peak : Ghost Dancer Couloir
By: MikeS When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: Made a ski descent of this route on 5/5/11. Used two short raps to bypass rocky chokes in the upper couloir. Fixed anchors are present. Would recommend bringing 35m of rope. Skiing was really cool, upper couloir in the 55deg range and lower face 40-45. Make a long traverse left at the bottom to avoid the lower cliffs.
I approached from the road closure and climbed the S face. After skiing the NE face, I booted up one of the couloirs to the Paiute-Audobon saddle, climbed the E ridge of Paiute (s... more >>

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Aretes : Ghost Dancer Arete (5.10+)
By: MikeS When: Oct 30, 2010

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Comments: So, to answer my own question: no large gear at all is needed to protect this route. The offwidth is easily protected with two #0.3 cams inside the wide crack. The #4.5 for the roof crack described above was nice, but definitely not necessary. A #3 could be pushed back in there just fine.
It would be nice to replace the old bolt on P3 as the moves above it are a bit runout. I could not find a small cam placement next to it.
This is an excellent route.

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Checkerboard Wall : Checkerboard Wall (5.10)
By: MikeS When: Oct 30, 2010

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Comments: P3 pin is gone. Pulled it out easily. #3-4 stopper will fit where it was.
My second time on the route (and leading P5), and I would support that bolt being chopped.

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Aretes : Ghost Dancer Arete (5.10+)
By: MikeS When: Oct 24, 2010

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Comments: Thanks, Justin,
Sounds good to me. I'm just psyched that it has new bolts.
Hope you're well. Drop me a line and come down for some climbing in Boulder in Nov.

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Aretes : Ghost Dancer Arete (5.10+)
By: MikeS When: Oct 24, 2010

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Comments: Heading to the Black this week, and this is on the list. Any idea as to which big cams are needed for the offwidth pitch? Thanks

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Buena Vista : The Spout, aka The Faucet, ... (WI4)
By: MikeS When: Dec 27, 2009

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Comments: Made the hike up to the Faucet today. There's more snow up there at the base of the route than I've seen in several years. There is about 90' of WI3 to climb. We turned tail due to a large windslab that was hangin' up there in the bowl below the climb. Caution and snowshoes advised.

Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Ice Cream Parlor Crack (5.11-)
By: MikeS When: Nov 3, 2009

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Comments: Skyeler's gear list is accurate. .75 is useless on this pitch. I protected the start with a #2 camalot in an undercling. Then a #4 (old size) below the finger crack. 2x .3, 4x .4, 2-3 .5's for the biz.

Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : The Other Road (5.11a)
By: MikeS When: Sep 4, 2009

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Comments: Great route, Drew.
Well bolted,and the 2nd pitch is definitely the highlight. We found it to be well protected throughout, with only the 3rd pitch holding lots of lichen, excellent climbing nonetheless. Looking forward to trying the one just right of it.

Location: CO : Buena Vista : Davis Face
By: MikeS When: Jul 13, 2009

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Comments: Another route on the face starts just left of the Carter Classic and goes at .10a.
Look for a bolt 30' up or so on the slab. Follow .9 friction past bolts, supplemented with small cams to a bolted belay just left of CC.
P2 goes up and right from belay over a small roof, then following cracks to another bolted belay, .9+.
P3 trends up and right again clipping bolts along an overlap with a couple of .10a moves. An excellent pitch. Follow this to where it intersects w/ CC and finish or rap.
This i... more >>

Location: CO : Buena Vista : Bob's Rock : Ego Buster (5.11a)
By: MikeS When: Jul 13, 2009

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Comments: Excellent and challenging for the grade, your ego just might get busted. As for the lieback section at the top of the "Flakes" route, a #2 Camalot at the bottom and a #0.4 in the horizontal a bit higher protect it well. An additional #1 is really all you need.

Location: CO : Buena Vista : Bob's Rock : Bob's Crack (5.10a)
By: MikeS When: Jul 13, 2009

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Comments: A single set of Camalots from .3-3 and sm/med nuts protect this route adequately.
Rated 5.10a/b in Ark Valley guidebook.

Location: CO : Buena Vista : Bob's Rock : Twist and Shout (5.11d)
By: MikeS When: Jul 13, 2009

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Comments: Great rock, nice moves.
Couple of additions: It's a right-trending crack, not left. A medium stopper protects the moves to the second bolt.

Location: CO : Buena Vista : Below The Arch Crag : Manzaneater (5.9+ PG13)
By: MikeS When: Aug 9, 2008

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Comments: Lee-
Did you get to the thin L-facing corner on the right yet?
Looks like a great line, would go with small gear I think.
That's a nice little crag, eh?

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Pacific Peak : North Face Couloirs
By: MikeS When: May 18, 2008

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Comments: Found fixed line from top of couloir down through bottom of crux. Perfect for rapping through steep and narrow choke (65deg,narrower than your skis) Double check security as I relocated it from some melt/freeze chossiness.
Nice snow.

Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Teale Tower : Teale Tower Route (5.11a)
By: MikeS When: Nov 4, 2007

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Comments: The second pitch is pretty entertaining, you should try it before assigning "piece" status. As said above, it looks harder than it is and is fun to figure out. The walk-off is easy in climbing shoes. I would like to repeat the request not to add any bolts to this climb (it would indeed be retrobolting, as in adding new bolts after the first ascent). If folks think that the first pitch needs cleaning up to get better, then set up a TR and run some laps. It's a great crack.

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