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Member Since: May 1, 2006
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Mike Soucy

Mike Soucy
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Point Rank: # 6,428
Total Points: 80
Last Year: 50
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mike Soucy been climbing?










Contributions


All 178 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 8 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 27 | Posts 136 | Stars 3 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

North Chimney

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c (7)

Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500'

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Lower East Face

Jul 18, 2016

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: bd ice tools

bd ice tools

Aug 22, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: LS Trango

LS Trango

Forums : FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ... : For Sale 5.10 Salomon Sport...

Aug 22, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Salomon x alp

Salomon x alp

Aug 12, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: New

New

Aug 12, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: mid guide tennies

mid guide tennies

Aug 12, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: New

New

Aug 12, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: North Chimney with approximate route.

North Chimney with approximate route.

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : North Chimney (5.4)

Jul 18, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Sorry, this is too easy.

Sorry, this is too easy.

Forums : Climbing Gear Discussion : ... : Post

Oct 27, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Community Pillar (5.9)
By: Mike Soucy When: Nov 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A double set to #3 Camalots and a single #4 was just about perfect for me on this route. Only the largest of cams or bros would protect many of the squeeze chimney sections. These feel quite secure and have the added benefit of many face holds.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Arch Enemy (5.9)
By: Mike Soucy When: Nov 4, 2015

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Comments: To clarify a bit of smassey's comment:
I don't think Arch Enemy could be rapped from the top of the finger crack/Solar Slab p3 chains with a single 60m.
It's a 35m rap climbers' left to the second belay stance. From here a 60m would work per his beta. Bring a 70m.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Y Couloir (Right Branch)
By: Mike Soucy When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Update to Brian's above post for the skiers. At this time, one cannot safely rap the ice chimney with a single 60m rope. A 70m will get you below the vertical ice, with a bit of easy downclimbing to a safe zone below the chimney. Two 60s would be ideal to quickly get you out of the firing line. The fixed anchor at the top of the chimney consists of two well-placed pitons in good rock.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Captain Beyond (5.10c)
By: Mike Soucy When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: Bring a knife, if you think, of it to clean up the rap anchors. They are becoming so filled with tat that it's hard to thread the ropes through...wish I could have fixed them today but didn't have one with me. There is plenty of good material to leave, as well as plenty of junk to clean. Thank you!


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Buckshot (5.10b)
By: Mike Soucy When: Nov 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Good route. Doing this in two pitches is easy with a bit of attention to rope drag on P1. If it's near your limit, triple #3 Camalots would not be a bad idea for P2. Neither would tape.....
An old size #4 was good to have on both pitches.
And most importantly, if you plan to rap the route to the climbers' left (Squash? three raps w/one rope), bring a knife and some cord or webbing to spruce up the anchors. There's a ton of old and faded stuff up there that needs to be cut away and re... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : ICBJ Boulder : ICBJ (V6)
By: Mike Soucy When: Oct 15, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: FA John Sherman. Know what it stands for?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : ... : Bullet (WI3+ M6+)
By: Mike Soucy When: Dec 7, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed this route today. Fun and challenging rock climbing with tools. A couple of comments: we found a single rack from green C3 to #3, small/med nuts, and 3 ice screws to be plenty sufficient. We did, however, climb right of the offwidth. No pins necessary. Gear through the traverse is great (I tested it).
Also, we removed the fixed anchor at the top of the pitch and moved it ~20m climbers' left, to the base of the big dihedral.
The two pins (both short KBs) that constituted the establi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Country Club Crack (5.11c)
By: Mike Soucy When: Oct 6, 2011

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Comments: My 60m makes it down to the first AF anchor with none to spare. Tie knots.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal
By: Mike Soucy When: Sep 21, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: How late in the season can one reasonably expect to climb here?


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Paiute Peak : Ghost Dancer Couloir
By: Mike Soucy When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: Made a ski descent of this route on 5/5/11. Used two short raps to bypass rocky chokes in the upper couloir. Fixed anchors are present. Would recommend bringing 35m of rope. Skiing was really cool, upper couloir in the 55deg range and lower face 40-45. Make a long traverse left at the bottom to avoid the lower cliffs.
I approached from the road closure and climbed the S face. After skiing the NE face, I booted up one of the couloirs to the Paiute-Audobon saddle, climbed the E ridge of Paiute (s... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Aretes : Ghost Dancer Arete (5.10+)
By: Mike Soucy When: Oct 30, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: So, to answer my own question: no large gear at all is needed to protect this route. The offwidth is easily protected with two #0.3 cams inside the wide crack. The #4.5 for the roof crack described above was nice, but definitely not necessary. A #3 could be pushed back in there just fine.
It would be nice to replace the old bolt on P3 as the moves above it are a bit runout. I could not find a small cam placement next to it.
This is an excellent route.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Checkerboard Wall : Checkerboard Wall (5.10)
By: Mike Soucy When: Oct 30, 2010

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Comments: P3 pin is gone. Pulled it out easily. #3-4 stopper will fit where it was.
My second time on the route (and leading P5), and I would support that bolt being chopped.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Aretes : Ghost Dancer Arete (5.10+)
By: Mike Soucy When: Oct 24, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks, Justin,
Sounds good to me. I'm just psyched that it has new bolts.
Hope you're well. Drop me a line and come down for some climbing in Boulder in Nov.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Aretes : Ghost Dancer Arete (5.10+)
By: Mike Soucy When: Oct 24, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Heading to the Black this week, and this is on the list. Any idea as to which big cams are needed for the offwidth pitch? Thanks


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Buena Vista : The Spout, aka The Faucet, ... (WI4)
By: Mike Soucy When: Dec 27, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Made the hike up to the Faucet today. There's more snow up there at the base of the route than I've seen in several years. There is about 90' of WI3 to climb. We turned tail due to a large windslab that was hangin' up there in the bowl below the climb. Caution and snowshoes advised.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Ice Cream Parlor Crack (5.11-)
By: Mike Soucy When: Nov 3, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Skyeler's gear list is accurate. .75 is useless on this pitch. I protected the start with a #2 camalot in an undercling. Then a #4 (old size) below the finger crack. 2x .3, 4x .4, 2-3 .5's for the biz.


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