Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Bridge Wall North (Practice... : Safety in Numbers (5.11 A3)
By: Mike Storeim When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The FFA of this was done by me in 6/72 with a belay by Chip Salaun. It required a fair bit of gardening, two fixed pins and a little top rope rehearsal.
At the time of my FFA, no one in the Fort Collins / Loveland climbing community (Hare, Woodruff, Gilbert, Stringham, Alexander, Chip, myself and others) knew anything about a free ascent and at least two of those individuals had given it a try, both being shut down in the first 10-15 feet.(Which is now buried?!)
The FFA of any poorly protected... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : New Eldo Guidebook - Previe...
By: Mike Storeim When: Jul 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Try writing one. You would want to charge $100+ so you could net about 50 cents per hour for your time.
Great job Steve - I look forward to picking up a copy.
|
Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir
By: Mike Storeim When: Apr 29, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: AC - Get a clue and READ the post by BZD.
All he said was that he found something and asked if anybody knew what it was.
Your self righteous dissertation of things legal, moral and ethical would have had more impact if you had actually read his post before jumping on that keyboard of yours.
If BZD found something of value and took it with him, it appears that he is trying to find the rightful owner by asking for a description.
Bad post dude.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Long John to V... : Long John Wall (5.8)
By: Mike Storeim When: Mar 28, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Regarding the rap from this route -
If you walk south a short ways from the finish of the climb you can rap from the anchors at the top of Washington Irving.
First rap is from a slung block with a steel cable. Second is from two fat bolts that will get you to the ledge at the bottom of Washington Irving, Chanti, Unsaid, etc. with a 60M rope. You wind up about 50 feet from your pack and don't have to rap from trees.
The only problem might be if there is traffic below you on W.I. for the seco... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Direct Cop Out (5.10b)
By: Mike Storeim When: Jan 11, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bob says: "...it was done trad". " we did on the lead with hauling a bosch up."
Jim Erickson.
Isn't including Jim Erickson's name in a post where you describe Trad climbing as "leading hauling a bosch" blasphemous?
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Foxtrot (5.11d PG13)
By: Mike Storeim When: Nov 5, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks to Roger Wilkerson for pointing out my confusing double negative in the above post.
It should read "I do not believe that convenience would be a valid reason to place these anchors".
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock : Cheops (5.10d)
By: Mike Storeim When: Jul 25, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: A pretty decent route, though I haven't done it in quite a few years. Kind of sad to see that bolts have been added and not just replaced. I hope that this is not a trend in the Platte. Nowhere near 5.10d unless you are doing it barefoot, in my opinion.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Kloeberdanz (5.11c R)
By: Mike Storeim When: Jun 24, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done this route several times, the first time in 1975 and the last in 1996. Maybe it's just my advancing age and a few extra pounds that made it feel harder, but I think that a piece of the crimper in the middle of the roof broke and is smaller than it used to be. It's definitely not as positive as it used to be.
Good idea to back up the pin after you clear the roof. Believe me.
In my opinion, the second and third pitches are the real reason to do this route, not the roof. They don't get... more >>
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Sorcerer (5.8+)
By: Mike Storeim When: Jun 5, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The best place to belay on the first pitch is just above the roof. There is a big chickenhead there and a few feet above, in a small pod, you can get in two bomber medium cams and a couple of wires. From here, you can climb to a stance just above the roof with a 70 meter rope and a bit of drag. If you are using a 60 meter, belay just below where you traverse left under the roof. The second pitch protects well with small wires and cams, although up higher you will need some larger pro. The upper ... more >>
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon
By: Mike Storeim When: Jun 4, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Allen - Before you get your nose too out of joint about this, consider that you just popped up out of nowhere claiming to have "put up over 50 routes in the last 10 years" in an area that has been climbed in for over thirty years that I know of. I have numerous route notes in this area from the early 70s, and I doubt that we were the first to climb many of these routes. I'm not saying that you didn't do any first ascents, just suggesting that some of the routes you think you did first may have b... more >>
|
RSS Feed
