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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : The Whale : Blow Tube Envy (5.7)
By: Mike McMahon When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I clipped the first bolt of Mr. MIA and then traversed to the first bolt of this route.... This variation seemed a bit more difficult than 5.7....
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : The Army Route (5.5)
By: Mike McMahon When: Jan 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...apparently it was the aptly named 'Crescent Crack.'
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : The Army Route (5.5)
By: Mike McMahon When: Jan 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed what I thought was the 'Army Route' today; however, it was very different than all descriptions listed. We began near what appeared to be a water-filled 6x6x4ft. hole on the eastish face of the Pinnacle. Meandering up to a higher ledge led to one very rusted and one orange bolt anchor. Directly above this anchor were at least three orange bolts/coldshuts. About 15 ft. right of this line was a right-angling, semi-crescent shaped crack underneath an overhang. We took this ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Moab Rim Area : Wilson Arch : Wilson Arch Regular Route (5.3)
By: Mike McMahon When: Nov 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Soloed it.... without a rope. I found a few sections of the downclimb pretty scary! This one would have been way cooler with a partner and a rap!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : North Face (5.6)
By: Mike McMahon When: Nov 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed it tonight in two pitches. A 60m rope was exactly long enough to reach a great belay crack (#2/#3 cams) high on the east ridge... but there wasn't any rope to spare! It's probably best done in three pitches.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Baker's Way (5.3)
By: Mike McMahon When: Oct 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: So, the first time I attempted this one, I ended up on a strange Zig Zag/Kamikazee/Atlanta variation. Well, I tried it again tonight, and I clearly climbed the first pitch (40' or so) correctly to a slung tree. After that, I'm assuming I missed the north gully. I ended up at a huge slung tree maybe a rope length above the first slung tree. I cut right here, and followed a major gully to the N. Arete. I think this last bit of climbing is Gerry Roach's Fandango var. 3. Maybe I'll get it next... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Backporch : East Face/Back Porch (5.6)
By: Mike McMahon When: Oct 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool climb. The second rap is spectacular (especially in the dark.) As stated earlier, this one may not be a great first rap! Currently there are four slings and three aluminum rap rings on the rock arch/tunnel.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : East Face North Side/Seal R... (5.4)
By: Mike McMahon When: Oct 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool climb. I unquestionably thought the crux was downclimbing the west face to the smaller west summit. A slip here would have dire consequences. Also, the very bottom 20 feet or so are really smooth (starting from the base of the formation on the NE side). I ended up downclimbing the ascent route to the 'elbow' and hopping off there.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Takin' Care of Business/ We... (5.5)
By: Mike McMahon When: Sep 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: As another approach, one could climb the east face 'arch' of Hammerhead and scramble to the east face of the Last Flatironette, which tops out right below D&T. On another note, I found it quite difficult to get into the chimney directly from the west with a pack; it's pretty narrow!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Angel's Way (5.2)
By: Mike McMahon When: Sep 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing! Possibly the best Flatiron I've done, and it seems to go forever! I started at the immediate base of the formation and the first 100 feet or so are simply spectacular as the exposure rapidly increases to a shear drop of 40 feet or so directly off of the arete. Even the approach felt like an adventure!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Palisades : The Ramp to Clark's Arrow t... (5.0 Easy Snow)
By: Mike McMahon When: Sep 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: So, I climbed the 'Loft' to 'Clark's Arrow' for the third time today and finally climbed (what I believe was) the 'Skyscraper' variation. I was pretty much exhausted when I reached this section, so some of my details might be a bit fuzzy. I don't remember the distinct tower on the right side of the Skyscraper; however, I was certainly in a narrow, pronounced gully right of a huge, pancake-stack-looking tower. I was really hurting by this point in the climb, and I thought this was ha... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Blanca Peak : Little Bear-Blanca Traverse (5.0)
By: Mike McMahon When: Sep 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow; high exposure on a fantastic ridge. More than anything, I found this one to be a real mental challenge of staying completely alert for the entire traverse. In a few spots, the ridge is severely doubly exposed, a slip, trip, or missed step would surely result in death. This would certainly be a bad place to be in a storm. Anyway, if comfortable with the grade and heavy exposure, I highly recommend this one!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Lone Eagle Peak : North Face (5.7)
By: Mike McMahon When: Sep 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this route yesterday and found it to be overall very enjoyable. The rock is certainly loose in places, but compared to other ranges, is actually quite solid. I made the mistake of climbing the incorrect 5.4 chimney on p11 that Tracy refers to earlier. After seeing the old fixed pin, I thought for sure I was on route, but it didn't take long to realize this overhang was certainly harder than 5.4. After hanging out in that chimney for eons, I finally aided it with a #13 stopper... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mount Sneffels : Southwest Ridge (3rd)
By: Mike McMahon When: Aug 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this route this summer, and honestly, I wasn't too impressed. I tried to stay high on the ridge several times; however, the rock quality of the exposed towers scared me away. Certainly watch for rotten rock on this route.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : North Ridge (5.6)
By: Mike McMahon When: Aug 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route yesterday, and it was all around, a great climb. We simulclimbed what would probably be equivalent of the first four or five pitches, and then angled right on the steeper slab area. This put us below a left-angling, large flake. After about 25-30 feet of this large crack/flake, we made a 5ft. undercling traverse left, which put us directly below a super sweet 10 ft. finger crack. This was our second to last pitch, and unquestionably the finest. The finger crack maybe went... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Buried Treasure (5.9)
By: Mike McMahon When: Jul 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed the "Buried Alive" (p1 & p2 Buried Treasure, p3 Staying Alive) variation last night. Great link-up. The undercling traverse into the V-slot on the final pitch was really fun. Thanks for all of the work you've done on this area Ron!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Zig Zag (5.7)
By: Mike McMahon When: Jun 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the Beta George. I read the chapters of Robert's book regarding the First...his friend's death sounded terrible.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Zig Zag (5.7)
By: Mike McMahon When: Jun 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a correction to my last comment... So, apparently Baker's Way actually begins slightly below and right of Zig Zag. If so, after the first pitch of Zig Zag, if I went farther south (left), would that put me in the 'Atlanta' area? Judging by the route overlays on the First Flatiron picture, I'm guessing I popped into the upper pitches of Atlanta.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Reggae (5.8)
By: Mike McMahon When: Jun 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mistakenly climbed this, thinking it was the second pitch of Calypso! Great climb anyway!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Regency : El Camino Royale (5.2)
By: Mike McMahon When: Jun 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this one a while back, and I remember it being a bit more technical than I expected. I believe Rossiter calls it 3rd, while Roach calls it 4th. Either way, I ventured to the far left [southish] of the rock and found it to be quite exposed and probably a low 5th class climb. Great summit and easy access to the Royal Arch!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Stairway to Heaven (5.3)
By: Mike McMahon When: Jun 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found the summit of 'Like Heaven' to be pretty airy without a rope! Anyway, off the knife-edge leading to the rap tree, I downclimbed the east face and found it to be a bit sketchy. Given, there was quite a bit of snow, ice, and wet-moss on the face, but nevertheless, watch your step!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Royal Arch : East Face/Royal Arch (5.4)
By: Mike McMahon When: Jun 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The grunts are mandatory, especially during busy summer weekends! Anyway, I wouldn't really call this a 5.4!!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dum : Fumbledeedum (4th)
By: Mike McMahon When: Jun 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of my favorites: caves, routefinding, noxious weeds, a few climbing moves! There must be at least half a dozen tunnels though out this route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Amoeboid : Buckets (5.0)
By: Mike McMahon When: Jun 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I cranked up this one after climbing the 'Stairway to Heaven.' However, after seeing the endless number of monster foot holds, I chose not to put on my dry climbing shoes, but rather climb in my muddy, wet running shoes. The 'Buckets' area was actually really fun! Higher up however, the buckets dissapeared and I found myself on a considerably steeper, lichen-covered face in wet shoes. I got pretty sketched out downclimbing that!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Macbeth
By: Mike McMahon When: Jun 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was the first scramble I ever did in the Flatirons. I suppose it's about 4th class?
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