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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : South Rock : Yikes Dikes (5.8)
By: Mike Howard When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: George Perkins wrote: RE: Airy Scary... "4th- crappy upward-driven knifeblade piton. "Protects" the psychological crux. You need to make 5.10+ slab moves about 10 or 15' above this, and I was not confident that it will hold a fall"
Bruce and I will check the pin and decide. He is convinced that seam seems rotten. This may end up with a bolt. Did you see the photos I added to the TP discussion Forum... more >>
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : South Rock : Yikes Dikes (5.8)
By: Mike Howard When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris and Daniel,
Bruce and I are going to upgrade the hardware on Airy Scary. Should we pay attention to these routes, too? Any suggestions?
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Holthouse to Hell (5.11-)
By: Mike Howard When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: All Bolts Replaced on Holthouse to Hell and Direct Start 11/10/09 with Hilti QB3 3/8
I think you climbed "Holthouse to Hell" with the Direct Start per Bruce Holthouse (FA rope solo lead). FFA and name by Dave Jones.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Clean Green Dream (5.9)
By: Mike Howard When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Replaced crux bolt and hanger 11/10/09 with SS 3/8 Fixe 2x3/4 stud with Fixe hanger.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Better Red Than Dead (5.10b PG13)
By: Mike Howard When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: All 3 bolts upgraded to SS FIXE 3/8 x 2 3/4 on 11/10/09.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras
By: Mike Howard When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kevin Riley, the director of the Anchor Replacement Initiative (ARI) sponsored by North Face and CLIMBING (thanks Matt), sent me this email after I requested assistance for the hardware.
Nov 9, 2009
Mike,
We’re interested in organizing an ARI day where we’d provide ARI hardware, additional help and possibly TNF athletes to help with the effort. It would be best for us to have this take place over a weekend. Maybe in December? Would you be interested in making this an ARI Crag Day?
Best,
Kevi... more >>
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L2) Hopper's Hangover Area : (15) Tijerina (5.9)
By: Mike Howard When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bummer. When putting it up, I fished out several pinned blocks from that corner but others could have come loose. Basalt consistency is so hard to predict sometimes. One reason why we bolted next to questionable placements is because we have all seen these features crumble or pop under load. I can still imagine there are other ways through given the various other holds. What would you rate it now?
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L2) Hopper's Hangover Area : (12) Dancing on Stones (5.11b/c) : Photo
By: Mike Howard When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice photo regardless, gotta love those Bob D slab testpieces. That big orange block behind your belayer has fallen since we started there.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L2) Hopper's Hangover Area : (12) Dancing on Stones (5.11b/c) : Photo
By: Mike Howard When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is up with that Knot (or not)?
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L1) John Nichol's Wall : (01) Writing Down the Bones (5.7) : Photo
By: Mike Howard When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice to see you guys enjoying the routes. Makes all the hard work and investment worthwhile. Try the new stuff at the north end, super fun, good rock. Enjoy.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L2) Hopper's Hangover Area : Photo
By: Mike Howard When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Numbering is off by 1 (#12 in photo is #13 in list etc.), I'll correct when I can
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L2) Hopper's Hangover Area : (13) Forever Jung (5.8)
By: Mike Howard When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Larry, glad you enjoyed UV. Sounds like 5.9 is the appropriate rating from the consensus here. Hard to tell after I had toproped it a few times getting it ready. I don't remember the bolt spacing being too far there, but a cam could be nice. Do you recall the size you thought worked best?
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras
By: Mike Howard When: Sep 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great news. The thread on TP controversial topics has been moved into the forums: Tres Piedras (NM) Bolts, Ethics, Access Discussion. Since hopefully we won't need it anymore.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Tres Piedras Bouldering
By: Mike Howard When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Post up!
Feel free to organize and create new areas and routes through the buttons. I just wanted a place to put the great photos Andrew Burr sent me. Thanks.
Mike
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Dirty Diagonal (5.7)
By: Mike Howard When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just received this message regarding the anchors(that have been there for several years):
"hey we were on dirty diagonal on Friday (August) 28th (2009) and the anchors were chopped. thought you would want to know"
Please be prepared to climb off the top.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Photo
By: Mike Howard When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best guess from the available information. Be aware, I do not trust this map is to scale or that the boundaries are precise. It is a start. If someone has an accurate map, please scan and post it.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon
By: Mike Howard When: Aug 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Right again, it is quartzite. Thanks George.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Skewed Right Up (5.10)
By: Mike Howard When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe a new Harrison Holthouse route.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Holthouse to Hell (5.11-) : Photo
By: Mike Howard When: Aug 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great photo George and Jason. A rare sight on that beautiful line. Congrats.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Mavericks : The Witch (5.6 R)
By: Mike Howard When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For more details on the closure/access in this area of Cimarron Canyon, see this Forum
Better (and legal) summertime sport cragging near Taos can be found at Comales Canyon, and at Red River. Go there instead.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Mavericks : Stiff Upper Lip (5.10)
By: Mike Howard When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For more details on the closure/access in this area of Cimarron Canyon, see this Forum
Better (and legal) summertime sport cragging near Taos can be found at Comales Canyon, and at Red River. Go there instead.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Mavericks : Spinal Tap (5.8)
By: Mike Howard When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For more details on the closure/access in this area of Cimarron Canyon, see this Forum
Better (and legal) summertime sport cragging near Taos can be found at Comales Canyon, and at Red River. Go there instead.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Mavericks : Road Block (5.11a)
By: Mike Howard When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For more details on the closure/access in this area of Cimarron Canyon, see this Forum
Better (and legal) summertime sport cragging near Taos can be found at Comales Canyon, and at Red River. Go there instead.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Mavericks : Reach for the Sky (5.10a)
By: Mike Howard When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For more details on the closure/access in this area of Cimarron Canyon, see this Forum
Better (and legal) summertime sport cragging near Taos can be found at Comales Canyon, and at Red River. Go there instead.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Mavericks : Raw Hide (5.7)
By: Mike Howard When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For more details on the closure/access in this area of Cimarron Canyon, see this Forum
Better (and legal) summertime sport cragging near Taos can be found at Comales Canyon, and at Red River. Go there instead.
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