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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : TM Chimney (5.7+)
By: Mike D When: May 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dustin! I have news for you- You climbed FALLOUT! not TM Chimney, there is no bolt on this route, but your comment are right-on regarding Fallout.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : Mainstreet (5.10a)
By: Mike D When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Wade:
When you replaced that first bolt, (thanks for that), did you give any thought to moving it to the left wall? I asked because I aways perform an awkward clip from right-side in and then turn around to left-side in which I feel more comfortable doing AFTER I clip the bolt.
Mike.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a) : Photo
By: Mike D When: Apr 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wearing short pants is not recommended! Take a look at the guy's knee who is standing- actually he has less damage than I would have expected (well done), but seriously I would wear knee pads if I ever climb this great climb again. Mike D.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : MaxiLash (5.11a)
By: Mike D When: Nov 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Steve I believe you've got the first ascent info wrong on this one. Although it seems like Scarpelli did the FA to all the hard OW around here- my info credits Wilford and Mammen with the first ascent.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Popcorn Farce (5.9+)
By: Mike D When: Nov 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The name tells all about the rock quality on this climb
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.10a)
By: Mike D When: Nov 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: How about removing the 10a/b rating for this climb- IT'S WRONG! Only one pitch of this three pitch climb is even close to this (one move of 10a at most) Rating the climb for only its first pitch is ridiculous even if most people don't go on to climb the rest of it.
Anyone agree?
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Crack of Fear (5.10d)
By: Mike D When: Nov 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: My opinion would be to remove the old bolts at the crux but not replace them as solid cams now protect this section, if you can climb it you probably own the rack required. Hard for OW 10d I thought
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Desire (5.10) : Photo
By: Mike D When: Oct 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: nice mountain boots!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Tiger's Tooth (5.9+)
By: Mike D When: Sep 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I lead this great climb today using gear up to a #6 cam that can be shuffled up through the crux. I also placed a #4 Big Bro, but this is not crucial as the climbing has begun to ease by this point. RPs to a #2 Friend protect the chimney reasonably well keeping the run-out to a minimum (15ft). I tend to agree with Rossiter's guidebook comment that there may be a move or two of 10a, but this section is well protected with the #6 cam. Great climb- if you're thinking about c... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Lower Progressive (5.9+)
By: Mike D When: Aug 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: New bolt anchors have been unnecessarily added to the top of this pitch. They have been placed in the worst of all possible places, set way back and down low where the rock is fractured into large boulders, there is clean solid rock two feet higher. Any attempt to lower off after a lead or a toprope ascent will result in a stuck rope. Not only can a natural gear anchor be set up in the same place but an easy downclimb can be found by walking around to the right (easier than it looks!) and downcl... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : Becker (5.6)
By: Mike D When: Aug 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.7 is the grade listed in the latest guidebook for the area and apeared to me to be accurate. A good climb with a tricky crux.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : Big House (5.7)
By: Mike D When: Aug 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good route, #4 Friend is the largest piece I used.
The rating in Kelman's book seems fair at 5.8.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : SS Maywood (5.10)
By: Mike D When: Aug 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I lead this great climb cleanly yesterday after two previous ascents (one follow and one lead with a hang). Toughing it out for the full length was the crux for me.
My rack included a couple 4friends and a few 4 Camalots plus DEET.
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