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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Emancipation
By: Mike Cronin When: Oct 27, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: VernI just spoke with Rob Pism about the first ascent of Profile 13a/b. He and his partners have given it the name of "Three Musketrre's". So if you are going to update the guide book you may make a note of this. I think they are coming back this weekend to try Paul Piana's Flamingo Drinker on Ottens Shoulder. Paul gave permission to open that one up. So Vern keep your pen ready for another update on this one.
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: Mike Cronin When: Feb 27, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: To whom it may concern.I was climbing at Sunshine Wall on Sunday the 26th and noticed that there were cars parked in front of the Saunters Solitude Driveway. We really need to keep the homeowners happy. The forest service would like us to park in designated pull off spots. If that means you have to walk a little further then please do. Thanks Mike
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: Mike Cronin When: Jan 22, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a new route at Sunshine Wall. It is one route right of Cougars Pupil. 8 bolts unknow grade. I am guessing solid 5.10. The name is Eye Of The Tiger. It is an open route. I have not climbed it so the rating is in question. If anyone climbs it please post the grade you feel it is. Also if anybody finds suspect bolts or anchors in Spearfish Canyon please let me know. I received some free bolts and anchors from Climbing Magazine for replacement. I need to get them used up so we can... more >>
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Emancipation
By: Mike Cronin When: Oct 6, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dear Panama
It sounds like you are coming back this way in the near future. Your return is highly anticipated. My shoulder reduction skills are lacking I need some hands on training.
Since there has been recent talk about bolted cracks in the hills I felt the need to go with poundermcnasty and repair the anchors on the 5 star bolted crack Snakebite Evangelist. The mystery of the suspect bolts and anchors is over. Let the siege begin!
Mike
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Thunderhead
By: Mike Cronin When: Mar 25, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Five new routes at the Thunderhead. Far left is Mesocyclone 5.11c/d 13 bolts, Spring Shower Brings May Flowers 5.9- 5 bolts, Lee's Route name unknown 5.10b/c 10 bolts. The other two are right of the next five routes. They go up the arete left of In on the Kill Taker.The left one is Dust Devil (project), other is Bear's Cage5.11c. It shares the first bolt with Ripsnorter 12b. Stick clip the first two on Bear's Cage. ENJOY
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Wrinked Rock : Double Chin (5.11+)
By: Mike Cronin When: Mar 13, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: CurtI agree with your comments on Double Chin. I did it in the mid 90's and thought it was great. A little wild pulling out the roof but then it was great climbing after that. Last fall when I repaired Oh Sherrie I put a new rap station on the top of Double Chin. Next time you are at RM try the new top varitation to Oh Sherrie. The original route went into the wide crack after the 5th bolt. Now you can clip bolts up the 5.10 face above to a new set of anchors. Captain Hook has new bolts a... more >>
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: Mike Cronin When: Aug 28, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is for the guy who is thinking of coming on Labor Day weekend. Sunshine Wall would be your best bet for easy routes in the Canyon. I would hate to see a visiting climber go to Skeletal. Sunshine has many moderate routes, great stone, short approach, great weather. You can get the guide books at the stores Dan said. Hope you have a good time.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Old Baldy/ Mount Baldy
By: Mike Cronin When: Jul 30, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dave
Thanks for the response. I do agree that the right exit on the Larry boulder is the easy way out. Center and right exits have still been either not repeated or not done. Hydra Crack is still feel is 11a. Like all grade one could dispute all day. I solo onsighted it last summer. But like most onsights you are in go for it mode. They usually feel harder when you try to repeat it. Kurt Smith did it for the video during the assault on Baldy. Gregs prow was not repeated. They feel v11. ... more >>
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: Mike Cronin When: Jul 30, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am writing this in regards to the Denver Climber asking about the drilled pockets on the higher end Spearfish Canyon routes. It is correct that there are some drilled pockets in the canyon, but not to the extent that you have been told. I will start with the Glamrock Wall. This wall has a very steep roof at the begining with no holds at all then leads into a beautiful slightly overhung head wall that is covered with holds. At first we had aide starts for the routes. It really took away fro... more >>
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Old Baldy/ Mount Baldy
By: Mike Cronin When: Jun 11, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am wrinting this in regards to David Asscherick's comments. I want to thank David for his informative history lesson on the Mt. Baldy area. But I feel I must add to and correct some of it. The line on the boulder by the hueco problem was done 3 times by 3 different people last Aug. of 2002. It was the line that pulls out right at the top. We used pads and spotters. Hydra Crack has been done multiple times in the past couple years and it has the rating of 11a solo. There is now as I writ... more >>
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: Mike Cronin When: Feb 20, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Greg send me an e-mail. I cannot find your e-mail address. So send me one and I will send you one. In regards to MEAN STREAK!
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: Mike Cronin When: Feb 4, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am sorry but on 1-12-2003 I left a message for Pete and Cindy but for some reason Perry's name came up. But once again hope all is well Pete and Cindy. Hope you can come back this summer. If Nate Renner gets this message I will replace the bolts at the Wall Of Oz if you still want that done. Are the hangers for a 3/8 inch bolt or are they 1/2 inch hangers. If Greg Parker reads this. Would you mind if a person finished the route left of Hopefull Monsters on the black water streak. If it ... more >>
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: Mike Cronin When: Jan 12, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pete and Cindy and T it is great to hear from you. Hope all is going well in Mexico. Hope you are sending all the problems on the Tip and putting more in. Love to see you in SD this summer.
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