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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Upper Exum Ridge (5.5) : Photo
By: Mike Abraham When: Jun 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Takes more pro than all the other pitches combined.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: Mike Abraham When: Jun 7, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that the route is a little harder now. 5.7, I guess. I think there's good edges for your feet, which'll be more obvious once the grit's gone, and there's good hands along the dihedral itself. So, the hard stretch just seems a bit longer now.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: Mike Abraham When: Jun 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This news may already be in the climbingboulder post queue, so sorry in advance if this winds up being a redundant post....
The flake is gone. Yesterday morning my partner and I arrived at the start to see some big blocks and debris on the ground. Sure enough, the flake had fallen (or was pulled off). It had been there when we did the route over Memorial Day weekend.
There was grit on both the ground and the route, possibly indicating that the flake had fallen very recently, since there were ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail
By: Mike Abraham When: May 25, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I kind of agree with the comment that the crack (#1 in the photo) seems harder than the corner (#3 in the photo). I think the crack just seems steeper, and is definitely longer. The corner has only the one move to get around the flake. So I guess I give 'em each a 5.3 to even it out. No matter how you slice it, they're both terrific routes, no matter how good you are.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pseudo Sidetrack (5.4 R)
By: Mike Abraham When: Jun 8, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great route no one ever does. What could be better....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over and Out (5.8)
By: Mike Abraham When: Aug 12, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: You could also climb the 5.6 second pitch (as described in the guidebooks). As I recall: follow the parallel cracks (actually corner with a parallel crack to the right) to the rotten ledge at the base of the 3rd pitch of Over the Hill. From there, either traverse off left, or climb the 3rd pitch of OtH.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : The Wisdom (5.11d R)
By: Mike Abraham When: Jun 4, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: From Rocky Heights:
"History: An aid climb (5.8, A4 by Layton Kor and Pat Ament in 1961), it was subjected to free climbing attempts in the mid-seventies. The first pitch was lead free in 1975 by Ed Webster. The main roof was lead free in 1975 by Art Higbee after a few tries. The final roof was lead free by John Bachar after a couple of attempts."
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face (Standard) (5.4)
By: Mike Abraham When: Sep 10, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: About the 3rd rap: if facing the rock, you actually traverse left (west) to reach the Friday's Folly rap anchor. From here, it's 72' to the West Bench. Boulder Mountain Parks has mostly idiot-proofed this by adding an instructive sign at the other (east) bolt.
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