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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Tumbling Rainbow Formation : Run For Your Life (5.10b R)
By: Mike When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Big fun but a little spicy.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : The Line King (5.11)
By: Mike When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fall on the face climbing section could be bad as a swinging fall onto that sloping ledge would suck. Fun moves though.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Anunnaki (5.11c)
By: Mike When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun stuff regardless of the rating.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Sardikar (5.10+)
By: Mike When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this climb was a bit scary. It isn't your typical IC splitter. Also there is a loose flake that you need to yard on/step on that was a bit heady. Fun though for sure.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Vision Quest (5.10d PG13)
By: Mike When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a stellar route! Airy moves, wild position, incredible views, and cracks from fingers thru chimney. I struggled the most with the OW moves shortly before the end of P2.
We rapped the route with a single 72 meter rope, and just barely made it on the first rap.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Duck for Cover (5.11)
By: Mike When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is lots of fun and easier to find than I had expected. I agree with Steve that the bolt would be more welcome on the P1 traverse. The traverse isn't that hard, but I thought it was a bit scary until you get established in the other crack.
I think we used 'only' 5 #2's, but am unsure.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : Rockfellow Dome : Abracadaver (5.11a)
By: Mike When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a day! Rugged approach, excellent & varied climbing, solid rock, great position & beautiful views.
I thought the start of P4 was at least PG-13, and I never saw the piton. A fall onto that ledge would suck.
We finished on the 11a face. Tough move past the bolt, but then it eases off considerably, which is good because it's a long way to the second bolt.
I love the description above for P2: "Feed yourself into the offwidth above. Expect no mercy." Very descriptive. I taped my ankl... more >>
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Coatimundi Whiteout (5.11a)
By: Mike When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This might be the hardest "5.11a" I have ever done. The roof pitch is wild and exposed.
For gear I would recommend bringing a second #4 camalot.
Also there is currently a bees nest under a boulder at the base. They didn't bother us, but be aware.
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Location: AZ : Winslow Wall : Bro Job (5.11b)
By: Mike When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes that is correct.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Westworld Dome : Warpaint (5.10c PG13) : Photo
By: Mike When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Elsie how'd you do it?"
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : The Whale : Bony Fingers (5.11b R)
By: Mike When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What an incredible route! We did it in 2 pitches with a 60m rope and a little simul-climbing on P2.
The start is super thin but well protected. The runout section after the last bolt is sketchy but not as hard. However, you could deck from that point so have your lead-head on straight. Also, those of us that that are taller with a long reach can mitigate the runout somewhat by reaching up waaaaay high from the stance and slot a wire in the black rock at the start of the crack before commit... more >>
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Anti-Jello Crack (5.10a)
By: Mike When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A nice route! The second pitch is classic, and the crux isn't quite as hard as it appears from below.
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Location: AZ : Phoenix area buildering : ASU main campus
By: Mike When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I disagree and feel that there is a place on MP.com for buildering, for both historical and recreational reasons. Check out the other buildering areas in other states listed in the database. However, if you feel differently then bring it up to the community. If the concensus is otherwise then I will gladly remove it from the database.
Cheers!
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Location: AZ : Phoenix area buildering : ASU main campus : Math Chimney (5.8 X)
By: Mike When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Braxton I disagree, but in the spirit of Mp.com I altered the wording a bit. Hopefully you will find the current verbiage more palatable.
Cheers!
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Location: AZ : Winslow Wall : Mulva (5.11b)
By: Mike When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually it is the left one. Manny and I climbed the right one (Aqua-Vulva) a while back thinking it was Mulva, and I only recently found out otherwise.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Atlantis (5.11+ PG13) : Photo
By: Mike When: Jul 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent pic. I love that pitch!
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : The Teapot : Wild Wild West (5.10+)
By: Mike When: Jul 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: mountainems: Yes, lots of people have gotten it clean. And everyone is entitled to their opinion, but 5.11+? In Sedona??? IMHO this route is much easier than, say, Castles In The Sand or The Golden Spike.
Chris: Thanks for a great route. Many people are climbing it; the word has definitely gotten out! I agree that is more of a head crux than a physically hard crux. When I first looked at that section, I actually yelled out: "You gotta be kidding me!" However, when you do the mo... more >>
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Mutiny on the Bounty (5.11+)
By: Mike When: Jul 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes Paul, right crack, then left crack, then back to the right crack, all in the corner. Scroll up and read the route description. My friends with small fingers generally stay in the (smaller) right crack.
I agree that once you get the nice stem it gets much easier.
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Location: AZ : Baboquivari Peak : West Face/ Southwest Arete : Born of Water (5.10c)
By: Mike When: Jul 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Geir on drugs? Are you on drugs?
OK seriously, thanks for the info jbaker.
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Location: AZ : Baboquivari Peak
By: Mike When: Jul 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Babo is an incredible and truly special place. Tread gently and respectfully please.
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Location: AZ : Baboquivari Peak : West Face/ Southwest Arete : Born of Water (5.10c)
By: Mike When: Jul 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was under the impression that this was a Mike Strassman route. Is my info incorrect???
If this route was judged on just the climbing it would be 2 stars at best, and maybe even one star. However, it is in such a spectacular and special location with such awesome scenery that it certainly deserves 3 stars. Babo is an incredible, special place.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Rusty Wall : Wangerbanger (5.11c)
By: Mike When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An fabulous route and one of my favorites (so far) at Josh. Not too hard for the grade (at least for JT) and great pro the whole way. As previously stated, the top-out is no gimme either, but there is a nice no hands rest just before to de-pump.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Dihedral Rock : Coarse and Buggy (5.11a/b)
By: Mike When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun, with a technical stemming crux down low. Bring several tiny nuts & microcams for this part. The pumpy section up high gets easier if you have the good beta.
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Location: AZ : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : La Vida Loca (5.11b/c)
By: Mike When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lots of fun. I remember the initial gear section (above the first bolt) being a bit fiddly but not too bad. The first roof is great!
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Location: AZ : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : Gone Grey (5.10b)
By: Mike When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Generally a very good route, but the last time I climbed it (2008) there were birds living in the crack and LOTS of poop.
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