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Doing the jump-across off The Mace.  I never get tired of this climb.  Photo by Wednesday Hugus.


Member Since: May 16, 2006
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 178
Total Points: 2,768
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 1
514 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mike been climbing?










Contributions


All 1453 | Routes 123 | Areas 37 | Photos 171 | Page Improvments | Comments 128 | Posts 358 | Stars 403 | Ratings 233
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : ... : Photo
By: Mike When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: Amos?


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Winslow Wall : East Side : The Soda Special (5.10)
By: Mike When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: That is funny David. I wonder who I got the name Soda Straw from?


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Photo
By: Mike When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: It was definitely rockfall. There is rock scarring in the area, a giant swath of destruction below, and the old roof is simply gone.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Castles in the Sand (5.11+)
By: Mike When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: I was there last Friday and saw the damage. I was selfishly keeping quiet until this Wednesday so I could go back and get the coveted FANRATORFO, or the First Ascent of the New route After The Old Roof Fell Off.

The new roof looks like it will be a bit easier that the original one, though one never knows. Sure the belay bolts are toast, but you can get good gear in the crack, and the original first 2 pitches linked easily anyway.

So Sean C, did you climb it, and if so, how was it? How scar... more >>


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : La Presa Francisco Zarco
By: Mike When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: This comment was transferred from a duplicate area [-ed.]:

Presa Francisco Zarco is a beautiful reservior located just south-east of Torreon. There are supposedly several climbing areas here, but with only a short day and very litle info we only found one. The rock is limestone, ranging from chossy to perfect.

Many climbs can be accessed by car, but there appears to be more rock accessable by boat.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Stewart Pocket : Stewart Peak : The Blade of Damascus (5.11a)
By: Mike When: Aug 13, 2012

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Comments: Hey Joel & Eric. I generally agree, however I mentioned not using the back wall b/c many people will not be able to reach it. Manny & I are on the tall side, with big wing/leg spans. Since many wouldn't be able to stem it seemed a bit like cheating to use it, and frankly IMHO it isn't nearly as much fun that way. Of course everyone is free to climb it however they want.

Also FWIW if one can always use whatever they want then several boulder problems (and all sit-starts) are no longer vali... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon
By: Mike When: Jan 24, 2012

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Comments: Mark I'm not sure about PRG, but I know they have them in stock at the Arizona Hiking Shack.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Oak Creek Village : Bell Rock / Courthouse Butt... : ... : Coyote Tower (5.10c)
By: Mike When: Dec 20, 2011

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Comments: Erock you need 2 60's.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : West Clear Creek : Middle Section : It's Super Body, YO! (5.10d PG13) : Photo
By: Mike When: Jun 26, 2011

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Comments: Azclimbingrocks, it was an abandoned hornet or wasp nest. We didn't knock it down on purpose. The rope hit it when the second was being lowered.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : ... : Photo
By: Mike When: Jun 5, 2011

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Comments: To answer the above questions/comments...

Paul while I am climbing in a chimney, there are no back-to-the-wall chimney moves on it; it is all stemming. Also I realize it appears as though my back is against the other wall, but it is only b/c of the camera angle.

T-Dog & Yarp, although Mark wrote it as "FA", to be more specific it was the first free ascent. This route was developed by Jake Dayley & Kole Decou,and Mark & I did the FFA. Also I realize it appears that the bolt is r... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Grand Canyon National Park : Zoroaster Temple : NE Arete (5.9)
By: Mike When: Apr 27, 2011

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Comments: Hey Olaf. While it is certainly do-able in a day, I wouldn't describe it as "ain't no thang" either. Maybe I'm just weak. Regardless of how you do it, it is a great adventure climb and a spectacular summit!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : Centipede Corner (5.10b/c)
By: Mike When: Mar 9, 2011

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Comments: What a great route, consistently steep & fun. This isn't your ordinary Queen Creek crack.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : The Peacemaker (5.10a)
By: Mike When: Dec 19, 2010

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Comments: It has been awhile, but I don't remember bringing or needing gear to supplement the bolts. I guess a few finger-ish pieces wouldn't hurt though.

The first time I did this we arrived at the base shortly after noon, simul-climbed it as a party of 3 in a couple hours, and were back at camp well before dark. What a great day on an awesome piece of stone!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : Photo
By: Mike When: Dec 19, 2010

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Comments: Yes Mark that is the location.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : ... : Inception (5.11+)
By: Mike When: Nov 23, 2010

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Comments: Having TR'd this route twice before it went up, I would give the lower part 3+ stars. Now that it has been properly cleaned & fitted & such, it probably does deserve 4 stars. I was going to just end it atop the steep splitter, but kudos to Dean & Dustin for having the drive to push it to the top. I thought it was 11+ or 12-, but suck at ratings so who knows.

I can't wait to get back on this!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Winslow Wall : East Side : Mulva (5.11b)
By: Mike When: Sep 16, 2010

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Comments: Andrew the Scoop Nazi is located up stream, and starts atop the small pillar of Swamp Thing & Om on the Range.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : Smashmouth (5.11a)
By: Mike When: May 25, 2010

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Comments: This is an excellent route. The top 2 pitches are outstanding! Although the 5.11+ rating in the Supertopo guide did seem seem a bit excessive, I wouldn't call it 11- either. My pitch-by pitch ratings were:
P1: 10+
P2: 10+
P3: 11-
P4: 11

Regardless of the rating, this route is heaps of fun.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Epitaph (5.9+)
By: Mike When: Mar 29, 2010

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Comments: The rap anchors are adequate but un-inspiring. Bring some webbing, or better yet replace any part of the rap anchor that is in need of replacement.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Tumbling Rainbow Formation : Run For Your Life (5.10b R)
By: Mike When: Nov 5, 2009

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Comments: Big fun but a little spicy.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : The Line King (5.11)
By: Mike When: Nov 5, 2009

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Comments: A fall on the face climbing section could be bad as a swinging fall onto that sloping ledge would suck. Fun moves though.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Annunaki (5.11c)
By: Mike When: Nov 5, 2009

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Comments: Fun stuff regardless of the rating.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Sardikar (5.10+)
By: Mike When: Nov 5, 2009

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Comments: I thought this climb was a bit scary. It isn't your typical IC splitter. Also there is a loose flake that you need to yard on/step on that was a bit heady. Fun though for sure.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Vision Quest (5.10d PG13)
By: Mike When: Nov 5, 2009

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Comments: What a stellar route! Airy moves, wild position, incredible views, and cracks from fingers thru chimney. I struggled the most with the OW moves shortly before the end of P2.

We rapped the route with a single 72 meter rope, and just barely made it on the first rap.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Duck for Cover (5.11)
By: Mike When: Nov 5, 2009

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Comments: This is lots of fun and easier to find than I had expected. I agree with Steve that the bolt would be more welcome on the P1 traverse. The traverse isn't that hard, but I thought it was a bit scary until you get established in the other crack.

I think we used 'only' 5 #2's, but am unsure.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Abracadaver (5.11a)
By: Mike When: Oct 7, 2009

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Comments: What a day! Rugged approach, excellent & varied climbing, solid rock, great position & beautiful views.

I thought the start of P4 was at least PG-13, and I never saw the piton. A fall onto that ledge would suck.

We finished on the 11a face. Tough move past the bolt, but then it eases off considerably, which is good because it's a long way to the second bolt.

I love the description above for P2: "Feed yourself into the offwidth above. Expect no mercy." Very descriptive. I taped my ankl... more >>


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