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Summit of The Cenotaph Spire.  Moab.


Member Since: Dec 16, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 652
Total Points: 978
Last Year: 28
Last 30 Days: 0
60 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 388 | Routes 4 | Areas | Photos 179 | Page Improvements | Comments 43 | Posts 20 | Stars 124 | Ratings 18
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Lone Eagle Peak : North Face (5.7) : Photo
By: Mike McMahon When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: Hey Jordan-
I did not solo this route. I followed the pitch in the photograph. Looking at the date on the photo, it appears I climbed this route seven years ago. I don't remember route finding being difficult, but then again, it was awhile ago. I do remember most of the route being rather mellow. If I remember correctly, this was the steepest section of the route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Islet In The Sky : Regular Route (5.9+ C3+)
By: Mike McMahon When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: I soloed The Islet over the weekend. It's pretty remote and wild. After trying both approaches, I think the White Rim approach is considerably easier. I appreciated the new bolt at the fourth and fifth belays. Also, I added a summit register. Here is a trip report for anyone interested:
Islet in the Sky Trip Report


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Trisstin's Tower : Regular Route (5.7 A1)
By: Mike McMahon When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: Wow!
I've been wanting to hop on this for a few years, and I'm glad I finally made the effort. As far as clean desert aid routes go, it's a crown jewel. It's by far the thinnest seam I have ever climbed. Not a single bolt, pin or piece of fixed gear on the entire route- props to the first ascent team.

I opted for the rim approach, which wasn't too bad (other than having to carry four ropes and a rack on the approach).

The route goes clean, even for a gumby like me. I ended up hand-pla... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lost World Butte Area : Cenotaph Spire : Cenotaph Spire (5.8 C1 R)
By: Mike McMahon When: Nov 15, 2012

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Comments: A few thoughts...
I'm not a great OW climber, but the first pitch slot wore me out! By the time I finished groveling through it, I was bleeding on one of my ankles, knees, and a shoulder.

I did not trust any of the gear on the second pitch; incredibly soft 'rock'. Thankfully, freeing that pitch is fairly straight forward.

Finally, I should have read the comments on here ahead of time regarding the missing bolt near the summit. I ended up hooking the bolt hole to reach the top. It... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : The Grand Traverse (5.8) : Photo
By: Mike McMahon When: Oct 5, 2012

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Comments: It was incredibly smokey. I believe there was a forest fire raging in Idaho, not too far away.


Location: TX : Paradise on the Brazos : Corner Walls : Stand and Deliver (5.10c)
By: Mike McMahon When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: There is a large and deep pocket above and left of the second bolt (between this route and 'sam-o-rama'). Technically, it is probably not on either route, but it is an attractive hold.

Anyway, I found a pretty large snake inside it today. I am not an expert, but I imagine it was only a Texas Rat Snake. Whatever it was, watch where you put your hands!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Mike McMahon When: Feb 24, 2012

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Comments: I soloed Zenyatta Entrada last week... For what it is worth, I felt a crucial piece of gear was a brown tricam. I used one just shy of the intermediate belay on the third pitch, again after the intermediate belay to reach the fixed pin before the pendulum, and a third time to turn the massive roof on the fourth pitch.

Also, I started via the .75" crack on the right. Aiding through the upper half of that pitch was rather unnerving. Many of the blocks inside the chimney are loose, if not fully... more >>


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : Shake and Bake (C2)
By: Mike McMahon When: Jun 11, 2011

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Comments: I aided it back in February and it went totally clean. Granted, the nut placements weren't exactly bomber in the middle of the roof. Maybe it has become worse?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : The Slaughter House (5.10+) : Photo
By: Mike McMahon When: Apr 10, 2011

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Comments: Hmmm... maybe. I'm not terribly familiar with the area, but the plaque at the base clearly read "Slaughter House 5.10+," and the climb was pretty consistent with the guide book. Either way- awesome climb!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : Heinz 58 (5.10+)
By: Mike McMahon When: Mar 28, 2011

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Comments: I hopped on this route after I saw the plaque at the base of the climb; I thought it read "Heinz 5.8!" A fun route anyway!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Gimp Warfare (5.8 A3)
By: Mike McMahon When: Sep 21, 2010

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Comments: Great trip report. Nice work!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2) : Photo
By: Mike McMahon When: Jun 12, 2010

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Comments: Yeah-
The cast is a result of the cam ... which as Tony pointed out, was certainly the result of a poor placement ... in easily crushed rock.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Mike McMahon When: May 15, 2010

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Comments: I've broken enough bones trying to climb this route clean. You certainly have my vote for a new bolt.

When walking down the trail a week or two ago, I relayed my story to a few other climbers. They said they would put a bolt on the Colo. NE Ridge the next day. Maybe they did, maybe they didn't.

Have fun!

-Mike


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Mike McMahon When: May 12, 2010

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Comments: Kingfisher: Round 2.

I returned last week to the Colorado NE Ridge (with a partner this time). After nearly crapping my pants through the worn pods maybe 20 ft into the third pitch, I was again defeated by the crux sequence above. Again, I top-stepped in my atriers off of the bolt on the ledge, allowing me to just barely place a single 0.4 camalot in the increasing worn crack above. After having several flashbacks of a very painful fall months earlier, I committed to the cam. I tried all so... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Mike McMahon When: Jan 16, 2010

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Comments: I soloed the first three pitches of the Kingfisher last November. While on the crux sequence (or at least up to where I was), an offset alien blew out on me and I took a really nasty fall...

There is an intermediate belay on the third pitch, which sits on a fairly large ledge. Above this ledge is a very worn crack, above that is a hole maybe 1.5 inches in diameter, above that a hangerless bolt, above that a bolt with a hanger, which was the extent of my upward vision. I believe many of you a... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : The Whale : Blow Tube Envy (5.7)
By: Mike McMahon When: Aug 3, 2009

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Comments: I clipped the first bolt of Mr. MIA and then traversed to the first bolt of this route.... This variation seemed a bit more difficult than 5.7....


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : The Army Route (5.5)
By: Mike McMahon When: Jan 5, 2008

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Comments: ...apparently it was the aptly named 'Crescent Crack.'


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : The Army Route (5.5)
By: Mike McMahon When: Jan 5, 2008

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Comments: I climbed what I thought was the 'Army Route' today; however, it was very different than all descriptions listed. We began near what appeared to be a water-filled 6x6x4ft. hole on the eastish face of the Pinnacle. Meandering up to a higher ledge led to one very rusted and one orange bolt anchor. Directly above this anchor were at least three orange bolts/coldshuts. About 15 ft. right of this line was a right-angling, semi-crescent shaped crack underneath an overhang. We took this ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : 191 South : Wilson Arch : Wilson Arch Regular Route (5.3)
By: Mike McMahon When: Nov 21, 2007

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Comments: Soloed it.... without a rope. I found a few sections of the downclimb pretty scary! This one would have been way cooler with a partner and a rap!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : North Face (5.6)
By: Mike McMahon When: Nov 6, 2007

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Comments: Climbed it tonight in two pitches. A 60m rope was exactly long enough to reach a great belay crack (#2/#3 cams) high on the east ridge... but there wasn't any rope to spare! It's probably best done in three pitches.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Baker's Way (5.3)
By: Mike McMahon When: Oct 18, 2007

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Comments: So, the first time I attempted this one, I ended up on a strange Zig Zag/Kamikazee/Atlanta variation. Well, I tried it again tonight, and I clearly climbed the first pitch (40' or so) correctly to a slung tree. After that, I'm assuming I missed the north gully. I ended up at a huge slung tree maybe a rope length above the first slung tree. I cut right here, and followed a major gully to the N. Arete. I think this last bit of climbing is Gerry Roach's Fandango var. 3. Maybe I'll get it next... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Backporch : East Face/Back Porch (5.6)
By: Mike McMahon When: Oct 10, 2007

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Comments: Cool climb. The second rap is spectacular (especially in the dark.) As stated earlier, this one may not be a great first rap! Currently there are four slings and three aluminum rap rings on the rock arch/tunnel.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : East Face North Side/Seal R... (5.4)
By: Mike McMahon When: Oct 8, 2007

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Comments: Cool climb. I unquestionably thought the crux was downclimbing the west face to the smaller west summit. A slip here would have dire consequences. Also, the very bottom 20 feet or so are really smooth (starting from the base of the formation on the NE side). I ended up downclimbing the ascent route to the 'elbow' and hopping off there.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Takin' Care of Business/ We... (5.5)
By: Mike McMahon When: Sep 29, 2007

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Comments: As another approach, one could climb the east face 'arch' of Hammerhead and scramble to the east face of the Last Flatironette, which tops out right below D&T. On another note, I found it quite difficult to get into the chimney directly from the west with a pack; it's pretty narrow!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Angel's Way (5.2)
By: Mike McMahon When: Sep 27, 2007

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Comments: Amazing! Possibly the best Flatiron I've done, and it seems to go forever! I started at the immediate base of the formation and the first 100 feet or so are simply spectacular as the exposure rapidly increases to a shear drop of 40 feet or so directly off of the arete. Even the approach felt like an adventure!


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