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Member Since: Oct 11, 2009
Last Visit: 23 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,657
Total Points: 356
Last Year: 49
Last 30 Days: 21
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mike McLean been climbing?










Contributions


All 313 | Routes 6 | Areas 1 | Photos 47 | Page Improvments | Comments 46 | Posts 18 | Stars 145 | Ratings 50
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Chapel Pond Slab : Regular Route (5.5 PG13)
By: Mike McLean When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: @Luc I agree; the descent is the crux. Both times I made it to the top (regular and empress), the descent was longer than the ascent ... There is a jambalaya of heard paths up there.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Photo
By: Mike McLean When: Apr 15, 2012

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Comments: A magic Adirondack Rock guide book floating mid air ...


Location: NH : Rumney : Photo
By: Mike McLean When: Mar 15, 2012

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Comments: Looks like you can blame this young lad:
27crags.com/climbers/younggun

Someone might know him and politely mention it's rude to steal.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O Slab : Catharsis (5.5 PG13)
By: Mike McLean When: Nov 9, 2011

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Comments: I agree about the Chapel Pond Slab comparison. I found this to be a LOT more commiting and runout than regular. A great route though; but not the same category of 5.5 as Regular at the Pond.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6)
By: Mike McLean When: Nov 4, 2011

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Comments: I'll second Seth's comment. This is NOT a 5.9.

I'm both chicken and weak, and I pulled it off. 5.6+


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff
By: Mike McLean When: Oct 13, 2011

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Comments: I was told there was a way to descend from the bottom of the cliff face by going to the right of Lakeview and following a trail.

Last Sunday, I was up at Lakeview at about 10AM and it was jam packed and backed up by a slooooooooooow group; looked at Weisner Dike and there was a sllllloooooow group there as well.

Considering there was bound to be a huge clusterf*ck at the last pitch, I figured I'd just walk back down and go somewhere else; there is something that looks like ... more >>


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : Beginners Route (5.5 R)
By: Mike McLean When: Oct 11, 2011

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Comments: There is most definitely a trail down from the top. And it is a very obvious one at that (marked most of the way). I'd submit that if you top out, it's possibly quicker to walk off.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Mt. Colden : Trap Dike (summer) (4th)
By: Mike McLean When: Sep 5, 2011

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Comments: The dike, post Irene, looks pretty devastated. I'm not sure the nature/quality of the climb will be the same (at least in summer).

adkbcski.com/2011/08/31/a-birds-eye-view-after-irene/


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O Slab : Catharsis (5.5 PG13)
By: Mike McLean When: Sep 4, 2011

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Comments: Yesterday I had the good fortune of climbing right next to Bernard Poisson who was on the FA of this route. He is now 80 and he was still doing great on the rock.

I discussed Catharsis with him for a bit, telling him how much of a great route it is. He told me that FA was done with big boots at that time. Although I know that sticky rubber wasn't around yet back in the 50's, it was cool to see him downplay the boldness of it. He explained that he did it with a new pair of boots from France tha... more >>


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thin Air (5.6)
By: Mike McLean When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: Lee was talking about the traverse itself. The anchors at the end of the traverse are still live and well.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Chapel Pond Slab : Empress (5.5 X)
By: Mike McLean When: Aug 11, 2011

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Comments: As Adirondack Rock mentions, I'd avoid belaying at the top of the OW. A fall on the runout and unprotected slab directly above would be directly on the anchors. Keep going up another 40 feet and belay at the obvious vertical crack at the overlap.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Tilman's Arete : Tilman's Arete (5.7)
By: Mike McLean When: Aug 11, 2011

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Comments: The P1 5.6 variation is nice as well. It starts in the corner on the left, up 10 or so feet, then step onto the horizontal, then up the ovbious right leaning crack. You join the arręte from the top of the crack. Gear was good.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thin Air (5.6)
By: Mike McLean When: Aug 2, 2011

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Comments: Actually I wouldn't gag because I don't know the story ...

I'll take a guess though; people were abseiling off the route because of those bolts and given the high traffic, it was always a clusterf*(k. Remove the bolts; problem somewhat solved.

Guess #2: The whole Nichols story.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Spanky's Area
By: Mike McLean When: Jul 31, 2011

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Comments: The parking lot has a green road sign in it reading '73 1201 142'. If you see this, you're at the correct place.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Jugs of Beer (5.3)
By: Mike McLean When: Jul 17, 2011

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Comments: Confirmed: No fixed anchor.

I was there last week and a boy scout troup was top roping it with the anchor rigged across the 2 large trees at the top.

Edit: Err ... Do you mean 'fixed' as in hardware? Cause as I said, there is no hardware up there. But there are bft's.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Giant Mountain : Eagle Slide (4th)
By: Mike McLean When: Jul 16, 2011

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Comments: I, unfortunately, never found the herd path; elected to bushwack my way to the base ... this is not as simple as it may sound.

Once on the slide, it was fun though; I had my rock climbing shoes so there were no worries at all. Easy friction up to the top with easy overlaps once in a while.

It took me about 40 minutes to complete. Made for a great day away from the Giant Mountain crouds.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Upper Refuse (5.5) : Photo
By: Mike McLean When: Jul 4, 2011

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Comments: The two on the right are on Recompense (btw: If that's you on the right, let me know, I have a couple more of you)


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Powell River : ... : Three the hard way. (5.7)
By: Mike McLean When: Feb 6, 2011

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Comments: 3 pitches and 90 feet? Thems er small pitches son!

(i.e.: You might want to fix that description: Either the route is 270 feet or there are 3 90 foot pitches)


Location: NV : Red Rock
By: Mike McLean When: Nov 3, 2010

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Comments: >>"Who could ask for more?"
>>How about some beta on the camping...

The sarcastic comment is old, but still applies. For an area so popular, this page sure does ... stink. Compare it to the front page of the Gunks ...

There was a recent tiny debate about stinky pages in the Gunks section (here) and it seems like the front page of Red Rock suffers the same lack o... more >>


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 5. Slabs : Lakeview (5.6)
By: Mike McLean When: Oct 11, 2010

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Comments: Did the route yesterday. A few thoughts:
  • Loose rock really is an issue. I saw a half-man size boulder going down to the scree field. Scary!
  • Again the loose rock issue: I got clocked on the head by a rock. Wear those helmets
  • The middle 3 pitches aren't great, but shouldn't detract from the rest. All other pitches are quite worth it.
  • Descent took us over 1 hour, but the path is very obvious. We did the whole descent in the dark.
  • Very, very committing. It would be difficult to bail until ...
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Chapel Pond Slab : Regular Route (5.5 PG13)
By: Mike McLean When: Oct 3, 2010

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Comments: The route description seems off to me (but I'm a Adirondack Rock fanboy).

Following the same route, Adirondack Rock has it in 6 pitches.

Although the last pitch is easy, I wouldn't call it 4th class.

For us, the descent took almost as long as the climb. The north gully was wet, wet, wet. We never did find the fixed rope, but still got away with a single double rope rappel.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Easy Keyhole (5.2)
By: Mike McLean When: Aug 15, 2010

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Comments: There was just a long discussion about this at Gunks.com. The locals maintain that it's a 5.2 because the 'move' is right off the ground (although that's not quite true as per say - falling on that move will deposit you in the crack or the boulders underneath).

Once that move is done though, you must admit that it's not all that hard.

(As a comparison, the opening move on Minty feels about the same and no one really questions Minty's rating at 5.3)


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Rhododendron (5.6)
By: Mike McLean When: Aug 12, 2010

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Comments: Not sure I agree with the 'no need for big cams' comment ... of course, I put in too much compared to others (I saw some guides put in only 2 pieces).

If you're like me (chicken shit and n00b), I used both a #3 and a #2 and could have used both my #3's.

Didn't feel like 5.6 at all though (felt more like a 5). Loads of foot holds and rests. I cruised up without much hesitation.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jackie (5.5) : Photo
By: Mike McLean When: Jun 27, 2010

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Comments: No, but only because it's right at the start :)


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Three Pines (5.3)
By: Mike McLean When: Jun 26, 2010

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Comments: I agree with the 3rd pitch rope drag issue brought up by Puzman. Belay from the right side of the ledge to avoid it.


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