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Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Wallface : The Diagonal (5.8)
By: Mike McLean When: Jul 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great description! Thanks!
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Upper Refuse (5.5) : Photo
By: Mike McLean When: Jul 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The two on the right are on Recompense (btw: If that's you on the right, let me know, I have a couple more of you)
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Powell River : ... : Three the hard way. (5.7)
By: Mike McLean When: Feb 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: 3 pitches and 90 feet? Thems er small pitches son!
(i.e.: You might want to fix that description: Either the route is 270 feet or there are 3 90 foot pitches)
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Location: NV : Red Rock
By: Mike McLean When: Nov 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: >>"Who could ask for more?"
>>How about some beta on the camping...
The sarcastic comment is old, but still applies. For an area so popular, this page sure does ... stink. Compare it to the front page of the Gunks ...
There was a recent tiny debate about stinky pages in the Gunks section (here) and it seems like the front page of Red Rock suffers the same lack o... more >>
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 5. Slabs : Lakeview (5.6)
By: Mike McLean When: Oct 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the route yesterday. A few thoughts:
- Loose rock really is an issue. I saw a half-man size boulder going down to the scree field. Scary!
- Again the loose rock issue: I got clocked on the head by a rock. Wear those helmets
- The middle 3 pitches aren't great, but shouldn't detract from the rest. All other pitches are quite worth it.
- Descent took us over 1 hour, but the path is very obvious. We did the whole descent in the dark.
- Very, very committing. It would be difficult to bail until ...
more >>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Chapel Pond Slab : Regular Route (5.5 PG13)
By: Mike McLean When: Oct 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route description seems off to me (but I'm a Adirondack Rock fanboy).
Following the same route, Adirondack Rock has it in 6 pitches.
Although the last pitch is easy, I wouldn't call it 4th class.
For us, the descent took almost as long as the climb. The north gully was wet, wet, wet. We never did find the fixed rope, but still got away with a single double rope rappel.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Easy Keyhole (5.2)
By: Mike McLean When: Aug 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: There was just a long discussion about this at Gunks.com. The locals maintain that it's a 5.2 because the 'move' is right off the ground (although that's not quite true as per say - falling on that move will deposit you in the crack or the boulders underneath).
Once that move is done though, you must admit that it's not all that hard.
(As a comparison, the opening move on Minty feels about the same and no one really questions Minty's rating at 5.3)
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Rhododendron (5.6)
By: Mike McLean When: Aug 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure I agree with the 'no need for big cams' comment ... of course, I put in too much compared to others (I saw some guides put in only 2 pieces).
If you're like me (chicken shit and n00b), I used both a #3 and a #2 and could have used both my #3's.
Didn't feel like 5.6 at all though (felt more like a 5). Loads of foot holds and rests. I cruised up without much hesitation.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jackie (5.5) : Photo
By: Mike McLean When: Jun 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: No, but only because it's right at the start :)
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Three Pines (5.3)
By: Mike McLean When: Jun 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with the 3rd pitch rope drag issue brought up by Puzman. Belay from the right side of the ledge to avoid it.
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