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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Northwest Face : Direct Northwest Face (5.10c)
By: Mike McL When: Jun 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. 3 nice pitches of splitter cracks.
The 5.9 slab move near the top is a bit heads up. I found that a orange/red mastercam offset protects the move very well in a pin scar just to the right of the move. It takes the ledge fall potential out of the scenario. So if you've got one, it's worth bringing.
Offset nuts aren't mandatory, but they work great on the pinscars on P1. Same goes for offset cams.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Woodfords Canyon : Books Area : Cat Scratch Fever (5.10a)
By: Mike McL When: Feb 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a pretty good route, certainly worth doing. A fairly clean dihedral with some fun jamming and laybacking. It takes good gear, and you can get in some solid pieces before the cruxes. Bring some extra finger sized cams.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Woodfords Canyon : Sun Wall Area : Sun Wall Middle (5.10b)
By: Mike McL When: Nov 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route. Mostly thin hands and hands with a short but awkward wide pod at the beginning.
2 #4s would not go unused but aren't absolutely necessary. I'd bring at least 1. Doubles of fingers to hands is nice to have if you want to sew it up.
I'm not sure what the 'correct' way to go at the top is. After pulling the roof through the bombay section, there's one more tricky thin hands section then you get to a nice stance. I checked it out straight up from here but the rock qualit... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Touch and Go (5.9)
By: Mike McL When: Nov 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route if done to Lizard Ledge.
The P1 flare on the right side of the Rat's Tooth is very nice. Somewhat strenuous with few rests. Fortunately that hand crack in the back makes it moderate. Take extra #2 and #3 camalots if you want to sew if up. 3 of each would not go unused. We had 3 #2s and 2 #3s and used them all. Climb through a roof, move left, and belay at bolts. These bolts are below Hungover Hangover.
Alternately you could climb the middle of the... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Creek Cliff : Between Two Worlds (5.10b)
By: Mike McL When: Aug 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice climb. Bring some small nuts to protect the crux.
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Mount Stuart and Vicinity : Upper North Ridge w/Great G... (5.9)
By: Mike McL When: Aug 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route! We did it late this July in a heavy snow year. We camped near Ingalls Lake to get a head start on the approach. Know that if you do this, you have about a 4 mile hike that gains 1600 feet of elevation to get back to camp from the base of the Cascadian Couloir. If you do a car shuttle, an approach from the Mountaineers Creek trailhead with a descent down the Cascadian and over Long's Pass is a good idea. Of course if you do this you have to carry over all of your gear. By c... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : Crackula (5.9)
By: Mike McL When: Aug 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bring a 4 inch cam for the top
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Prusik Peak : Stanley-Burgner Route (5.9+ PG13)
By: Mike McL When: Aug 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If leading near your limit a 4 inch piece is very useful on the first 5.8 pitch (the left variation) as well as the final pitch.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Six Star Wall : Six Star Crack (5.13-) : Photo
By: Mike McL When: Jul 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: great perspective
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : West Wall : April Fools (5.9)
By: Mike McL When: Apr 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Am I crazy or is this on the West Wall? It's to the right of Hospital Corner.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : Photo
By: Mike McL When: Apr 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool light...nice shot.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : Photo
By: Mike McL When: Feb 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: wow...great work
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Unknown (right of stampede) (5.10a)
By: Mike McL When: Jul 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 2 is great. Slab, hand crack, chimney, and interesting face climbing.
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Dragontail Peak : Serpentine Ridge (5.8+)
By: Mike McL When: Jul 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As far as snow gear, we did it in late June without crampons. That time of year there is very little actual snow climbing on the approach. Most of it is on rocks with short stretches of snow. We were able to get by in the morning without crampons, but the snow was very hard. If you descend in the afternoon (which most will do) the snow is soft and we didn't need crampons. An ice axe was nice to have. We brought boots but it could be done in approach shoes with an axe.
As far as a rack, I s... more >>
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Location: ME : Katahdin : Photo
By: Mike McL When: Nov 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm cold just looking at this photo
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Lone Star (5.11) : Photo
By: Mike McL When: Sep 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Only one route would dare give me the raspberry...Lone Star!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Photo
By: Mike McL When: May 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice shot. Too bad you caught that plant in the top right corner.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Whale Dome : Moby Dick (5.8)
By: Mike McL When: Dec 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really enjoyed this climb. Not dangerous but runout enough to keep it interesting. I placed pro whenever I could and still didn't manage to need more than 1 set of nuts and a set of cams from fingers-hands. Bring lots of slings for all the heads. I brought a #3 and #4 camalot and managed to use them both at least once. I was happy to have them, especially pitch 2 when the #4 camalot ended a fairly long runout when I placed it in a narrower portion of the big overlap. Th... more >>
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