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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (A1) Utopian Vista Upper Ti... : Brown Berets (5.7)
By: Mike Howard When: Jun 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anchors taken? I'll look at it tomorrow and reinstall. Dead cholla had a bunch of gear stripped last year... I hope you guys recovered everything. Let me know if you left anything and I'll get it back to you. Bummer, I'll locktite and round out the bolts if need be.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon
By: Mike Howard When: May 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: List of upgrades done during the May 2012 on Bob D'Antonio's Volunteer Penitente Canyon Anchor Replacement & Trail Repair Weekend:
Penitente - Entrance Canyon
Dirty Little Girl aka Morning Glory, 5.10c. Newly bolted Mussy Hooks, new hangers on good old 3/8” bolts.
Mysterious Redhead, 5.11a. New FIXE chain anchors, replaced SMCs, tightened Petzl hangers, checked 3/8” bolts. Look OK. Please do not TR through new rings.
The Nature Of The Beast, 5.12a PG13. New Metolius rap anchors, tighte... more >>
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Breakdown Dead Ahead (5.10d)
By: Mike Howard When: Apr 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anchor Replacement, modernization: "After gaining the ledge, you are risking groundfall if you blow it climbing to the next bolt on an easy runout after that is unnecessary." Fixed 4/29/2012 with Bob D. and Tim Standing. Plan to replace SMC spinners with 28kN hangers on Anchor Replacement Weekend 5/12-13/2012. New sport anchor with chain, so please do not top rope through chains, use you draws and last climber rap.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Tanks for the Hueco (5.10d)
By: Mike Howard When: Apr 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anchor Replacement, modernization: "After gaining the ledge, you are risking groundfall if you blow it climbing to the next bolt on an easy runout after that is unnecessary." Fixed 4/29/2012 with Bob D. and Tim Standing. Replaced SMC spinners with 28kN hangers. Come help more on Anchor Replacement Weekend 5/12-13/2012. New sport anchor with Mussy Hooks, so please do not top rope through hooks, use you draws and last climber rap or is lowered.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Bullet the Blue Sky (5.12c/d)
By: Mike Howard When: Apr 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bullet the Blue Sky anchor replacement Fix the chain anchor set up. The current configuration makes you lower off of one link that is very worn out. Fixed 4/29/2012 with Bob D. and Tim Standing. Musssy hook anchor, upgraded old angle iron to 28kN hangers.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon
By: Mike Howard When: Feb 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Penitente Canyon Anchor Replacement & Trail Repair Weekend
Public Event · Organized by Bob D'Antonio
Saturday, May 12, 2012
9:00am until 7:00pm
Penitente Canyon, San Luis Valley, Colorado
Penitente Canyon Anchor Replacement & Trail Repair Weekend. This is for all climbers, hikers or anyone who loves the Canyon and the work that volunteers and the BLM have done in the past. Show up and then get to work. Beer, Food, Bolts, Anchors, Tools and good vibes with be provided...Come and show some l... more >>
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : When the Whip Comes Down (5.11d) : Photo
By: Mike Howard When: Feb 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That Deltoid hypertrophied to overcome a complete Erb's Palsy. The deltoid looks larger because of the loss of muscle at his Bicep and Infraspinatus/Supraspinatus. Bob overcame that and climbed harder than I ever could with two biceps. Quite a feat.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Erb%27s_palsy
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley
By: Mike Howard When: Feb 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Penitente Canyon Anchor Replacement & Trail Repair Weekend
Public Event · By Bob D'Antonio
Saturday, May 12, 2012
9:00am until 7:00pm
Penitente Canyon, San Luis Valley, Colorado
Penitente Canyon Anchor Replacement & Trail Repair Weekend. This is for all climbers, hikers, or anyone who loves the Canyon and the work that volunteers and the BLM have done in the past. Show up and then get to work. Beer, Food, Bolts, Anchors, Tools and good vibes with be provided.... Come and show some love to this ... more >>
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L1) John Nichol's Wall : TR, Project (5.12)
By: Mike Howard When: Jan 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jason, glad you enjoyed it. I crowbarred about 300 lbs of choss out of the band under the slot last time we were on it and wanted to have another look at it. The holds in the chimney are also hollow and I never wanted a belayer to take one on the noggin. We'll get her ready for prime time in the spring. I am glad you guys survived it.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Pink Torpedo (5.9+)
By: Mike Howard When: Nov 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: "The bigger the cushion, the sweeter the pushin'
That's what I said
The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand
Or so I have read
My baby fits me like a flesh tuxedo
I'd like to sink her with my pink torpedo
Big bottom, big bottom
Talk about bum cakes, my girl's got 'em" Spinal Tap
FA Mike Howard, Bob D.
9+, 11b.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Bum Cakes (formerly listed ... (5.9+)
By: Mike Howard When: Nov 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I called it "Bum Cakes" from "talk about bum cakes my girl's got 'em, big bottom..." as featured in Spinal Tap. The exit is full value sport crack jammin'. Monkey up and enjoy.
FA Mike Howard, Bob D.
5.9+.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Slamdance Cosmopolis (5.10b)
By: Mike Howard When: Nov 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Slamdance Cosmopolis".
FA: Mike Howard, Bob D.
10a/b.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Retaining Wall : Photo
By: Mike Howard When: Oct 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Small world alert...
I sent this screenshot to a friend of mine I thought might know something about these two hardmen from 1956. Sure enough that was Dave Hahn's dad.
Dave Hahn wrote:
"Wow Mike... that pretty much blows me away. That is my dad. He and I just had an adventure in Yosemite with Jon Martin... son of Bill Martin from the register. Thank You."
You can read more about Dave here
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Wales : Anglesey : Gogarth
By: Mike Howard When: Oct 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this happen near here?
www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1632381/So-much-for-Sea-Cli>>>
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Location: NM : Taos Area : John Dunn Bridge Area
By: Mike Howard When: Aug 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Slate. The editor I have always hoped for. Cheers mate.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L2) Hopper's Hangover Wall : Hopper's Hangover (5.12) : Photo
By: Mike Howard When: Jul 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice shots Bob. Are you around this week, Bob and I will be out climbing. Send me a PM if interested.
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Location: NM : El Rito : Photo
By: Mike Howard When: Jul 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crotalus viridis
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L2) Hopper's Hangover Wall : Klein's Corner (5.9)
By: Mike Howard When: Jun 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lead on gear 6/19/11. 5.9 R without bolts using tricky small pocket horizontals and a few hollow blocks. Needed the 5th bolt to protect traverse...if not would be a serious fall. A few Runners useful for rope drag. Not recommended for 5.9 leader.
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Rio Arriba County (Brazos, ... : Brazos Cliffs
By: Mike Howard When: Jun 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Original American Alpine Journal 1968 submission
New Mexico
Brazos Cliffs, White Couloir Route. This spectacular quartzite face rises some 2000 feet above the Brazos River in northern New Mexico. Several routes have been pioneered by George Bell and others, but large sections of the five-mile-long cliffs remain untouched. A new route, climbed on October 8 by George Bell, my wife Alice, Mike Williams and me, begins in the whi... more >>
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (A2) White Riot Wall Upper ... : Clampdown (5.10a) : ... : Photo
By: Mike Howard When: May 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I stand corrected , thanks.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Ludlow's Massacre (5.11b)
By: Mike Howard When: May 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please stop at the memorial in Ludlow, CO and pay your respects.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ludlow_Massacre
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Location: NM : Taos Area : John Dunn Bridge Area : Solar Asylum
By: Mike Howard When: Apr 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are owls (likely Great Horned Owl, (Bubo virginianus))nesting at the solar asylum. They are pretty much in the center of the wall and seem very concerned about company,it would be nice to give them some time and space. Great Horned Owl
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier
By: Mike Howard When: Feb 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beta from CLIMBING MAGAZINE March 2011
Comale Upper Walls
Tim’s Thumb – Furthest north formation with pointy summit.
Family Day 5.12a *** Climbs steep orange face behind big tree to black aręte above. FA: Tim Naylor, Jay Foley, Donna and Milan.
The Block - Middle formation, routes listed left to right.
Aaron’s Route 5.8 ** Start on right side of dead tree and after 4th bolt angle up left and over bulge to left facing corner. 5 bolts. FA: Gina Hawryluk, Dan... more >>
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Taos Hum (5.10b)
By: Mike Howard When: Dec 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Jason, definitely a fun route as it was fun to set. That was me, Bob, and Vaino on a nice fall day in 2009. Sounds like the shoulder has rehab'ed well.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Road Warrior (5.10) : Photo
By: Mike Howard When: Sep 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is up with the tag line clip?
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