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Member Since: Feb 18, 2004
Last Visit: Aug 27, 2011
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mike Hack been climbing?










Contributions


All 63 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 14 | Page Improvments | Comments 20 | Posts | Stars 24 | Ratings 4

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : Birdhunter Buttress (5.9)
By: Mike Hack When: May 23, 2010

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Comments: Regarding the Brown Recluse rappel, it IS possible to do it with a single 70M rope. However, on at least 2 of the 9 or so raps, the next station was essentially at the end of the rope. Fortunately, the heavier of us went first to establish the next station and "tether" the lighter of us with his daisy chain (and secure the rope!). The final rap dumped us out, at the end of the rope, onto a narrow ledge 20 feet off the deck, but we were able to capture the rope end and scramble into a corner t... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Orange Flake (5.8)
By: Mike Hack When: Apr 27, 2010

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Comments: The off-width is evidently more enjoyable if you make your second carry the pack. If that's what you're into. (I suppose it's probably harder if you're into it, but you get more gear ...).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Ellsmere Island : Aftermath (5.10a)
By: Mike Hack When: Apr 2, 2006

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Comments: I thought this was pretty fun - nice hand crack at the bottom, and a fun move getting into and around the roof (a crimp on the right edge of the roof makes it lots easier to get a left hand up and into a layback). Short but sweet.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : Cerro Torre Tower : 80 Proof Roof (5.10b)
By: Mike Hack When: Mar 10, 2006

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Comments: I never felt totally secure on this one. There are some heady moves pretty far above the bolts. The moves leading to the roof are definitely not as easy as they appear from below . . .


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : Cerro Torre Tower : Fitzroy Was Here (5.10b)
By: Mike Hack When: Mar 10, 2006

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Comments: The traverse section is not as loose and crumbly as first appears. The feet are actually quite solid, and the holds are good. Fun route, nice variety.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Bighorn Dome : Greenhorn Dihedral (5.10c)
By: Mike Hack When: Nov 5, 2005

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Comments: This route was also somewhat dirty and loose, lichen below, loose rock above. We knocked off several loose flakes near the top. The moves were pretty cool though . . . just needs more traffic to clean it up!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Bighorn Dome : Aliens Ate My Buick (5.10b)
By: Mike Hack When: Nov 5, 2005

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Comments: The route was somewhat loose and dirty throughout. The move off the deck was a little exposed. The section past the third bolt and before the roof is somewhat spooky given the rock and bolt quality. But with more traffic and better bolts, this could be a fun route.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Lakeside Rock : Lakeside Rock - West Face : An Eye for an Eye And a Rou... (5.10b)
By: Mike Hack When: Apr 11, 2005

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Comments: Great climb! Solid friction and good rock throughout. A couple thought provoking moves after the roof crux keep it interesting.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef... : Popular Mechanics (5.9)
By: Mike Hack When: Mar 21, 2005

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Comments: I agree that this rock feels like Taquitz rock. Smooth and not as much friction as other Jtree rock. This route reminded me of "El Camino Real" at Taquitz, although much easier.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Rock Candy Mountain : M & Ms Plain (5.9)
By: Mike Hack When: Mar 1, 2005

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Comments: I didn't enjoy this climb. The crack is flared and gear doesn't seem all that nice. I guess the crux came low, but there were all these buckets just right . . . should I feel guilty for using them? Short climb . . . how did it get two stars in Randy's guide?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles in the Sky
By: Mike Hack When: Feb 24, 2005

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Comments: Anyone know anything about the routes in the corridor behind Bird of Fire? Crack #n (n=1-whatever)? Some of them get a few stars in Randy's guide . . . anyone climbed any of them?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : North Overhang (5.9)
By: Mike Hack When: Feb 7, 2005

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Comments: We came up the north face (nw corner?), after doing lower right ski track (but you can scramble up to this start). From there, it can be done without setting a belay in the alcove. Then clip the bolts, but don't place any other gear in the alcove, and the rope will pretty much run straight down that east face to your belayer with no drag. I didn't place any gear after turning the corner. By the time I felt secure enough to stop for gear, I was only a move or two away from relative safety. H... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon Area : Steve Canyon : ... : Deflowered (5.7)
By: Mike Hack When: Jan 28, 2005

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Comments: I climbed this route several years ago and remember not liking it much. I recall thinking it felt off-widthy, awkward and generally unpleasant. But it probably didn't help that my partner (mostly a gym climber at the time) decided not to follow, so I got to pull my own awkward gear on rap . . .


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Jimmy Cliff : Jimmy Cliff - East Face : Friendly Hands (5.10b)
By: Mike Hack When: Jan 28, 2005

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Comments: I couldn't get my hands in the crux section either, had to layback, and then transition (like an easy Woman's Work) to get a good jam above. Must be "Friendly" in the sense there are so few jams to hurt your hands!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Freeway Wall : Upper Freeway Wall : Cakewalk (5.8)
By: Mike Hack When: Nov 8, 2004

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Comments: I found it similar in many ways to Sail Away: good stances for gear, great nut placements, fun route, similar difficulty. But no queue at the base!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rollerball Formation : Rollerball (5.10b)
By: Mike Hack When: Nov 8, 2004

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Comments: Great climb, although short, with two fun cruxes. For me the technical crux (layback/weight shift near the bolt) was not as hard as the roof crux. This to me felt harder than the roof on Illusion Dweller. Just not very secure for my fat hands. I didn't think this route was as hard or as pumpy as C&J, though.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : The Sentinel - West Face : Illusion Dweller (5.10b)
By: Mike Hack When: Nov 8, 2004

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Comments: Did anyone else think this roof ("crux" at 10a/b) was much easier than the roof on RollerBall, whose 10b crux is supposed to be the lower technical section?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Rubicon Formation : Rubicon (5.10c)
By: Mike Hack When: Apr 11, 2004

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Comments: I finally understand some of the "10b" comments in this thread. The first time I led it, I sewed it up near the bulge below the big hold, pumped out and fell off. Felt much pumpier than C&J. The second time I just put a #2 TCU below the bulge, #3 BD at the big hold, #1 TCU a stance above, and then it was done. Less of a brawl than C&J; more delicate and sustained. But I don't know if any single move was harder than 10b . . .


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : AFPA Rock : Spaghetti Sauce Sunset (5.10c)
By: Mike Hack When: Apr 4, 2004

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Comments: For all the crumbly loose stuff around, the pro was surprisingly good. I thought the moves were fun too . . . maybe would be better if the route were cleaned by more traffic? Crux was the bolt-protected crumbly friction section at the top.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Star Wars Rock : Light Sabre (5.10b)
By: Mike Hack When: Mar 1, 2004

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Comments: The bottom stem/layback crack is very forgiving when it comes to gear selection. Fun section . . . imagine a full pitch! Crux is probably getting into or out of it. Good rest afterwards, and again also after the highstep/bulge section. Then easy jams to the top. Fun route!