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Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Weakfish (5.10+)
By: mike c When: Jan 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Knocked off the loose block after the 4th bolt. It was a lot looser than I thought. I recently added 2 bolts making it quite nice to lead.
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Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Promontory Ridge/The Cub? : Creature From The Black Lag... (5.10c/d)
By: mike c When: Sep 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the first ascent, I placed a marginal RP at the awkward crux corner crack near the top of the corner and it pulled. I went zinging down a little ways and even skinned my knee. I fell onto a 00 c3. It held, fortunately. It was really exciting! I was rope soloing and pushing it a little. The rock quality here is really good and reminds me of Vedauwoo a bit. This climb is short and doesn't look like much but is stupendous up high.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Gates of Eden (5.10a)
By: mike c When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think 10- is about right. Good start move and then it lets up. No 4s needed ....
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : Sisters/Hidden Fawn Boulder... : Pachyderm Boulder : Elephant's Trunk (V5-6)
By: mike c When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good problem, but if you ask me, it's easier than the 4 up the hill.
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Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Herringbone Direct (5.12+ R)
By: mike c When: Feb 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Placing gear and pulling these moves have been my most intense challenge at this little but stacked quarry. I've struggled through quite a few gripping attemps on this ultra short, thin seam. After maybe ten or so tries I finally led this route clean. Unfortunately, I only managed a pinkpoint of it. Fortunately, I love a good challenge and am looking forward to a traditional redpoint. Of course, I think it's a little harder placing the gear on lead, but I think I can do it one piece at a time...... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Old Man and the Sea (5.12c)
By: mike c When: Dec 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Reled this one after a large sidepull fell off. It is definitely harder since losing the hold. I also added a bolt at the end where you can now safely crimp through on some tiny but good crimps toward the anchor for Deepwater Horizons. It helped greatly to use a long draw at the 5th bolt. Classic, hard, committing, and just burly at the crux 5th bolt.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Stargate (5.11b)
By: mike c When: Nov 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb...did it as one pitch, and it was smooth. Fair as 11b in Eldo...if you relax. I had a harder time with the moves up higher. I found the upper section slightly commiting (5th to 6th) but exciting.
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Location: PA : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : Paradise : Photo
By: mike c When: Jul 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: watch out for bats in that area.
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Location: PA : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : Paradise : Photo
By: mike c When: Jul 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: it was the crux for me! i have never seen anyone on it but it doesn't hurt to help people stay safe. i love all those routes. roofing madness is super amazing!
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Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Chum (5.12c/d)
By: mike c When: May 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure of the grade...it can feel 11d and it can feel 12d. It just depends on the humidity and how good your balance is...super fun! The hardest thing I've done, I think. At first I thought it could be 13a, but after a few attempts I feel that would be too far a stretch. I do feel it's a little harder than Ten Digit Dialing though...have fun.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Road Rash Roof (5.12a) : Photo
By: mike c When: Apr 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just out of curiosity, is that a bolted crack?
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Unknown (5.8)
By: mike c When: Mar 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route was already climbed two years before the purported FA.
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Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry
By: mike c When: Jan 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This little quarry has proved more adventurous than I could have imagined...the gear routes here can be serious undertakings, and I would strongly suggest taking gently on some of the gear (aside from some of the bomber cracks) before falling with any significant force...maybe even top rope prior to leading on gear. Most of the harder trad lines were headpointed. There are some solid placements (in between marginal ones) on most of the routes, but most of the landings are severe. All were led gr... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Sea Robin (5.8)
By: mike c When: Jan 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this was the first route at the East Quarry to be attempted...before a single bolt was drilled at the East Quarry, I hiked up there and attempted Sea Robin myself on rope solo. I discovered an ancient hex deep in the crack up about 15 feet..the crack was super dirty and filled with a lot of junk...up higher on the ledge and above the ledge were some death blocks which I trundled (fun). I retreated as well fearing some serious danger and being alone. The evidence suggests some prior climb... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pen... : Jerry's Quarry : Equinox (5.12c)
By: mike c When: Dec 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: now thats a crack.!
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Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Tiger Shark (5.11- R)
By: mike c When: Nov 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The gear on this route is a little weird at the crux...there is a good yellow Alien off the ground to keep you safe for the fun opening moves. The gear at the crux (yellow Alien back in the flare) is a little more on the bodyweight friendly side...don't take the entire flare up with a larger cam or the move will seem much harder. Like most of the gear routes at the East Quarry, I would be very leary of taking big falls on the marginal placements....
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Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) (5.12b PG13)
By: mike c When: Nov 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like all the trad routes here, this one can be a serious undertaking. Most of the placements are safe for body weight...a few are good for falling, but be careful. There is one bolt after the crux section before the roof. I drilled the bolt on lead by hand off a Beak. It took two serious tries to complete the first free ascent. There are awesome and sustained tips locking crux moves with some stem tricks to boot...definitely my most proud route there. A beautiful addition to the area's trad port... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Interstellar Overdrive (5.13d) : Photo
By: mike c When: Nov 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey, that's not fair...he's using climbing shoes and both arms...ha, ha, ...that guy is freakin' strong!
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Bone Collector aka Bone Cru... (5.12b/c) : Photo
By: mike c When: Oct 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: What's up with the 12+? Did something break off the route, 'cause last I knew, it was easier than Silver Bullet, which to me seems like 12a.
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Sharkcicle (5.10-)
By: mike c When: Oct 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree. Very iffy rock up there! It was fun once, but like you said no need to go back...the whole wall is a boobie trap...fun lower section, though. Maybe could use a low anchor just after the first ledge...easier warm up for the area. FA was in a snow storm at at 30 degrees or so... my fingers were sharkcicles!
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Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Jaws (5.11c/d R)
By: mike c When: Feb 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led this again for the second time after a year and got a little bit beat down...like a lot of the trad routes here, it's best to aid and toprope prior to a lead.... Yeah, it's marginal style, but the moves are tricky and unique and so is the gear. Some placements are ok but most are unreliable...I think it's called headpoint style, but I'm not sure exactly.... Definitely 5.11 something...only one lead to date...and I did it after about 7 or 8 TR burns to suss out the moves and the gear...the ge... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Play With Your Balls (5.11a/b)
By: mike c When: Jan 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A sweet route. Led ground up...a block detaching experience. If I remember correctly, the first lead entailed a leader fall (crazy John L) while holding onto a detaching boulder. I think the thing hit him in the head (a little more exciting than rapbolting). It was ok, though a red Alien saved the day. The hard part of the route is the transition from fingers to a flaring hand jam. Needs a little cleaning, but all the crack routes at the East Quarry do. The first route to be put up here. As far ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : X-M (5.10c R)
By: mike c When: Jan 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Let's not kid ourselves. In the description, it is written that this climb is a more serious for the second when in fact I have seen many climbers fall from the crux and just swing left 15 feet or so. Yes, I assume it is a little scary to fall from there as a seconding climber. If the leader were to fall and his little manky stopper actaully hold, they'd hit the edge of the big old flake/chimney and it could be nasty, and if for some reason that piece failed they might never walk again.... So, I... more >>
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Location: PA : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : Paradise : New Generation - 5.12a (5.11+)
By: mike c When: Dec 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: climbed this route like 10 years ago , i think petersons kid put this route up a while back. there was a bad knifeblade under the crux roof so i ripped it out with one or two swings and replaced it with a new one....good climbing but i think a little soft for 12a...more like mid to hard 11.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Close To the Edge (5.12b)
By: mike c When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: When was thee last time anyone has climbed this route?......there should be a climbing rule that requires all first accentionists to return to their climbs every 10 years to see if any key holds have broke and re-rate them..... Just kidding, but seriously this sucker is tricky and hard. I wish I had some insight to the initial move past the first bolt. It seems like something is missing. I'll go back and try it again... dang climb! By the way, how old are those drive in bolts, and what would hap... more >>
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