Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : Crack of Noon (5.8)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Apr 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, shares anchor with poundcake.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The J Wall
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jan 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Saw these recently. They look good! Excited to try them.
|
Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Clint's Well Areas : Jacks Canyon : Main Wall
By: dnoB ekiM When: Nov 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI, the ground is currently about 6+ foot higher under the routes Bone Crusher, Zone of Exclusion, Son of Fury, Sandman, and Serpentine due to the post fire flooding and subsequent settlement of the ash, dirt, etc.
Some of the first bolts are at chest level now.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.6)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Nov 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Barry0, While there are no anchors atop PG's 2nd pitch, a 70 meter should allow you to continue up and left to the top anchors of BBWolf and belay from those anchors, if you wish. This is a fabulous route.! EZ, fun and protection opportunities the entire way. Over the hill to GMs house 5.9 (to the right) is a Great!!! alternative first pitch!
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Nightmare on Crude Street (5.10d) : Photo
By: dnoB ekiM When: Sep 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is Heavy Hitter.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Nightmare on Crude Street (5.10d)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Sep 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is mis-sorted it is two to the left of the Heavy Hitter...aka...just right of Friend. Bottom right from left to right (entrance) is Idiot Parade, Foe, Friend, Nightmare on Crude Street, Hips Don't Lie, Heavy Hitter, She's Deadly, M&M, Michael Angelo, Psychobilly, Burros Might Fly, Burros Don't Gamble, Adoption
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : She's Deadly (5.11)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Sep 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Since this is not sorted or described, I will comment that this is the route that is now the first one right of the Heavy Hitter.
Bottom right from left to right (entrance) is Idiot Parade, Foe, Friend, Nightmare on Crude Street, Hips Don't Lie, Heavy Hitter, She's Deadly, M&M, Michael Angelo, Psychobilly, Burros Might Fly, Burros Don't Gamble, Adoption.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Conundrum Crag
By: dnoB ekiM When: May 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What part of conundrum are you facing Ashley. Family Crag Routes? Drilling Miss Daisy? Don't Laugh AMD? or Arrowhead Arete? The only 2 new routes I saw last time was one left of Arrowhead Arete and one right of Drilling Miss Daisy...both are about 11a.
|
Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Starter Crag
By: dnoB ekiM When: Apr 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good fun. Thanks Andy and Chris for the work! Ok little beginner crag. Could use some mussy's for the anchors.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Universal City : Prime Ticket (5.11b)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Mar 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sold! Thanks for the pic. After all my years in RR, I have never been to this crag. Pic and description look good. Gotta' get out there! Thanks for posting Darren!
|
Location: NV : Arrow Canyon : Swamp Cave : Brown Sugar (5.12d)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Mar 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Neither. It is the left route on the right side of the cave. Steep and blocky. Currently has a fixed draws on it.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Conundrum Crag
By: dnoB ekiM When: Feb 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Adam, I climbed there today. I did the two new routes...both have white painted stainless hangers...that were painted at the crag on some rocks at the base :-/ Kinda lame to do that. That said, kudos to the devolopers as they are well/safely bolted with quality gear...stainless hilti bolts and pagan stainless hangers.
One is just left of Arrowhead Arete and the other just right of Drillin' Miss Daisy. As are all new routes at RR, they are still a bit crispy/chossy, but they will clean up, w... more >>
|
Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Arginonta
By: dnoB ekiM When: Feb 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quite possibly the best 5.10 wall in the world! Many amazing 5.10's here!!
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Conundrum Crag : Don't Laugh at Me Dude (5.10)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jan 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's the correct route. I bolted this with a hand drill in 2001ish. I was going to go back and add a second anchor bolt...but this became a wilderness area shortly thereafter. It's an ez walk off. If a second anchor bolt was added it would be better. Maybe one day it will be allowed. Also, you can get a good .5 or .75 (can't recall which was best) Camalot in the horizontal between the last bolt and the anchor.
|
Location: NV : Arrow Canyon : Swamp Cave
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jan 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Today I added mussy hooks to the anchors (which are metolious rap hangars) on the three 9+/10A's on the right side of the swamp cave wall. I also added them to the far left route (12a) on the bit of wall left of the swamp cave.
I love this crag...and it will be nice to be able to lower off the warm-ups!
|
Location: NV : Arrow Canyon : Radio Wall : Running Out of Days (5.11a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jan 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Reclimbed this today after about 8 years since the FA. John, It is DEFININTELY harder than 10A. I'm calling it 11A (the start makes the grade). Both this and No Stranger (and the Mix) have gotten harder.
BTW- This wall was bone dry when bolted but it seeps some years, and when it does, you should avoid these routes. Some of the blocks have popped since the FA and I think mostly due to being climbed on when seeping (just guessing). They are getting pretty clean, but there are still a couple... more >>
|
Location: NV : Arrow Canyon : Swamp Cave : Shelter from the Storm (5.12b)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jan 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a variation that takes a 2 bolt diagonaling left escape (at about bolt 6) to the Brown Sugar anchors. That goes at 12A/B. Maybe..."Shelter from the Sugar"...who knows.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Viagra Falls (5.12a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Dec 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, last bolt is shot. It's a 2.25 inch 3/8 powers and pulls out by a full inch with ease. I think the hole is worn down in the back. Might be a good candidate for removal...to redrill the hole to 1/2" and drop in a new 1/2" powers. The climbing too and beyond this bolt is 5.7ish so most who get there will not fall. You can also place a solid .4 camalot below and/or above this bolt.
|
Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Mandarin Orange (5.11b)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Nov 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic route with lots of 10ish moves...pumpy on upper half. No hard moves. There are rest on this route...there is actually a sit down, no hands rest half way up.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : Too Few Years (5.11a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Nov 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmm...sorry about that. I didn't really notice it being hard to clip #2 and I ran a few laps on this Saturday and then did it again early Sunday morning. I clipped it at shoulder height off of a big left hand hold (crescent shaped jug). The body position for 1 & 2 is,indeed, left of the bolts, but not far left of them.
Thx for the feedback. I'll look at it again next time I'm out there. I'll reposition that bolt if it is indeed a problem.
11/7/12: After reclimbing this several time... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : Fall of Vegas (5.10a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Nov 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Choss cleaned today. Bummer someone stole my draws off the anchor. Lame!
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : The Last Drag (5.10a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Nov 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Go send em Jon! Would enjoy your feedback.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : Fall of Vegas (5.10a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Nov 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also, I accidently left two draws on the anchor. If u climb this, pls grab them and PM me. I would love to have them back.
|
Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Clint's Well Areas : Jacks Canyon : Main Wall : Limestone Cowgirl (5.11d)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Nov 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very contrived to avoid the stem...
|
Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : As the Crows Fly (5.11b)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Oct 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree clipping anchor is the crux...
|
RSS Feed
