Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Sep 24, 2007
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
Contact Mick S


Point Rank: # 4,115
Total Points: 93
Last Year: 10
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Mick S been climbing?










Contributions


All (127) | Routes (2) | Areas (2) | Photos (1) | Comments (38) | Posts (49) | Stars (30) | Ratings (5)
Page 1 of 6.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Top Flite

5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b (4)

Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300'

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Trundle Wall

Oct 30, 2009

Voodoo Child

5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a (8)

Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Torreon

Jun 26, 2008

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Trundle Wall

NM : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon

Oct 30, 2009

TWA Canyon

NM : Sandia Mountains

Oct 30, 2009

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Jtree Camping

Jtree Camping

Climbing Gear Discussion : Camper Trailer : Post

Feb 14, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : Pantomime (5.10+ R)
By: Mick S When: Feb 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Kevin, just to clarify, I only added one bolt, on the variation to the last pitch, which turns the 5.10+ roof. I also added a fixed pin to the free climbing left of the A2 section. Nice work on those routes, they have great climbing.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : Pantomime (5.10+ R)
By: Mick S When: Dec 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: It's an aid route unless you free climb it, which we did, which is what is described in the guide. It's called Cabron in the guide since that is what you named it. You are also given credit for the FA, aid climb or free climb. BTW, I contacted you via email after we free climbed it (many years ago), since at that time I didn't know who did the FA. We added a bolt and pin to our free variation (NOT to the aid sections), and had I known who did the FA, I would have contacted you first. At the time... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Bitch's Brew (5.11-)
By: Mick S When: Oct 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Yeah I was glad I didn't lead that pitch, although the climbing is awesome. Great adventure route.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Phat City
By: Mick S When: Sep 6, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Nice views, very average climbing.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : The Sorcerer (5.12b PG13)
By: Mick S When: Aug 20, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: We felt that the sections that might give the route an R rating had relatively moderate climbing, such as the middle of the 3rd pitch, so maybe it wasn't really a Sandias "R" route. We certainly could be wrong, what pitch did you think was runout?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Northwest Ridge (5.5)
By: Mick S When: Jun 26, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: What does the local climbing community think: replace with a pin or a bolt. The back up piece that I had placed came out! I believe and know all about the historical signifigance of the pin, but the climb should be made safe. Thank you and lets find a good solution.

Since there are other options that avoid that pitch, I do not think replacing the pin with a bolt is appropriate. Glad you were not hurt, that is a bad place to fall.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Mountain Momma (5.10c)
By: Mick S When: Jun 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The length of the rappels for MM in the current guide are purposely exaggerated to prevent any rappel epics (or accidents). I have witnessed more than one. Maybe you could do it with a single 70 meter, but I doubt it. I would bring 2 ropes if a rappel was a consideration because of bad weather, but personally I would never rap to avoid the last pitch(s). The left-hand options are fine, actually pretty good. Much safer to just top out and avoid stuck ropes or pulling off loose rock.

If you are w... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : The Needle : Southwest Ridge (5.8 PG13)
By: Mick S When: May 31, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: October, cooler temps, no thunderstorms.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Techweeny Buttress
By: Mick S When: May 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Bolted by Dave Milford 10+ years ago. I can't remember the names, but I believe they are 5.10+/.11-.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower
By: Mick S When: Apr 26, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: John free climbed the pitch, but only on TR. This is according to reliable sources, and I cannot remember if John confirmed that, I have not seen him in many years. FFA Cody Roth 5.13d R, 2011. It's updated in the new 2013 guide, although I notice I have it listed as 5.13c in the FA index. Whatever, it's a hard, bold route on an awesome wall. In recent years, a couple of strong climbers tried, but were unable to free climb it. Congrats to Cody for getting it done.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Photo
By: Mick S When: Oct 18, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This is a route for the solid 5.10 leader. There have been several epics on this thing. The traverse up high is funky, and the exit ridge is easy, but very loose. The hand crack is sweet, but the swifts live there now, and they don't like visitors.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Wiretap (5.10c PG13)
By: Mick S When: Aug 20, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I never thought that big pro in the upper flaring groove would actually hold a fall (where you really needed it). Sparse small pro, but what you get is good. Heads-up lead, I have always been more concerned at the bottom since it's pumpy, and you are close to the ground. The pin in the horizontal will likely hold at least one fall, I was always pleased when I got the cam in the next horizontal, it's bomber. The button head above that, well that's a different story ...


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : ... : Photo
By: Mick S When: Aug 17, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, Bill, the excellent photo that Chris posted is the exit I show in the guide. That may not be the original finish, but it is more direct. It's a nice last pitch, but the couple of pitches leading up to it are unpleasant.

As explained in the Procrastination description, there is another option that veers slightly right starting with pitch 8, to cleaner but somewhat runout climbing.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : WatchTower : Excalibur (5.10d)
By: Mick S When: Jul 27, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I highly recommend the new rap route down the Watchman's Secret, it ends at the base of Excalibur. 70 meter rope required. The fixed pin in the corner at the start of the first pitch is 20+ years old and showing it's age. Micro nuts are useful to back it up.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Cat Daddy (5.13-)
By: Mick S When: Oct 20, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: An awesome route that requires a variety of skills. Jamming, jug pulling, and a hard, face climbing exit. After trying several options, I thought the best pro for the exit moves was a #5 stopper, that requires some patience to place. It is bomber, which is good, since the fall from the last moves is exciting.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Out to Lunch (5.10b PG13)
By: Mick S When: Sep 8, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: You should be solid climbing 5.10 with minimal protection if you choose to climb straight up above the belay on pitch 5.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : The Needle : Southwest Ridge (5.8 PG13)
By: Mick S When: Aug 1, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Most likely unclimbed. Let me know how it goes, I'm always on the lookout for clean cracks up there.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : The Needle : Southwest Ridge (5.8 PG13)
By: Mick S When: May 19, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Texans ... welcome to the Sandias!


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Crossroads (5.10a)
By: Mick S When: Apr 14, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The bolted variation on the second pitch is recommended, and helps to keep you on route. It will be included in the new guide. Sounds like the route is cleaning up nicely, be careful out there.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas
By: Mick S When: Oct 11, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Not much traffic on these routes I assume, there is still a fair bit of loose rock, bring a helmet.


Page 1 of 6.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>