Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: AZ : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Right Wall : Kindness (5.13a)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: 15 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Another thanks to Josh for doing the FA of this awesome route!
Intense and difficult sequence getting over the roof. Remains sustained and hard. Protection is good throughout.
One of the best sequences at the Waterfall. Wish the first half of the route was a bit harder and of similar quality as the top half.
Difficult route to rate. I'll go with the 13a Josh gave it for now until it sees more ascents/opinions.
|
Location: AZ : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+) : Photo
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Nov 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Mono!
I'd been considering doing this for a few weeks before this thread got going. The comments just pushed it to the top of my ticklist. I wanted to jump in "well I think this route will go without gear and am planning on trying it", but until sent that is basically just spray. I held comment until after.
If you are in AZ you should give it a try. It's an amazing route in a pristine, beautiful setting.
I'm very exited to be closer to Smith for both the trad and sport. I love tec... more >>
|
Location: LeeAB : Wierd stuff : Photo
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That photo makes me shiver. I suspect the water at 8000 ft is pretty darn cold.
|
Location: AZ : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+) : Photo
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Lee!
Shangri-La is different from your "typical" Sedona route in that the rock is much higher quality and there is almost none of the obligatory choss. It's more like climbing at Indian Creek than Sedona. Yes the gear was generally small. The placements were deep and I was able to double up prior to where I perceived the cruxes were located. There was no gritstone type action with partial cam lobes engaged. There was only one section where placing the gear was strenuous (before the ... more >>
|
Location: AZ : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+) : Photo
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just sent this route without the bolts today. Witnessed by Chuck Claude. Some buttshots should be up soon.
I wrote a TR:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona__new_mexico/tr_shan>>>>>
Nothing motivates accomplishment more than naysayers. Thanks guys for telling me that this could not be done.
Pernell, I have no intention of renaming this route. IMHO this is the best climb in Arizona! Shangri-La is a fitting name for such a great route.
Josh I've seen you do more dice... more >>
|
Location: AZ : Sedona : Church Spires Area : Church Wall and Religion Wa... : The Planetarium : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No wonder I got so pumped on M2M! Great shot!
|
Location: AZ : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+) : Photo
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't get your humor Pernell. Are you bagging on the grade, the style, something else? Oh, by the way, have you been on the route?
|
Location: Monomaniac : Stuff : Photo
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful! Congrats!
We considered getting married in Zion but ended up in Tahoe which was also great.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Afterburner Cliff : Eliminator Crack (5.11)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the best pitch of crackclimbing that I have done at RR. Would be a 5-star pitch in Yosemite and Indian Creek. Unfortunately, it is isolated and requires a arduous bushwacking slog to access. Still, for the crack seeker it is well worthwhile.
|
Location: AZ : Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : H.S. Canyon : The Golden Spike (5.11+)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this route climbable in the colder months? Hoping to get on it before I leave Flagstaff in December.
|
Location: AZ : Oak Creek Canyon : The Doctor's Office & The P... : Linger Fickin Good! (5.11+ A0)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just redpointed this as a freeclimb today. I agree with the 12+ rating.
This is an excellent pitch requiring skill in different size jamming, faceclimbing, small pro and staying cool. It protects very well.
A double set of cams to green Camelot and singles to blue Camelot should suffice. I used the blue on the first pitch at the traverse move. The upper OW can be protected by a red or gold Camelot just placed a little farther back, in case you don't want to drag a large cam up.
|
Location: AZ : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Josh
I wasn't spraying; just really psyched.
What is Lost Horizon?
Regards
Mike
|
Location: AZ : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Okay, I went back out again and I now have to take back the first line of my previous comment about there being better pitches in Northern AZ. Today I combined the first 3-pitches into 1 megapitch. It was possible and downright reasonable with multiple rests and intelligent use of runners. Combining these three pitches was downright awesome! I highly recommend it. Does the linkup push the pitch over into the 5.13 grade? Well, probably not with all the great rests available. It does howeve... more >>
|
Location: AZ : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is likely the finest route I've done during my time in Northern Arizona. I've done better individual pitches, but no route rivals this.
Pitches 1 & 2 are combined easily as are pitches 4 & 5. This makes a lot of sense and essentially makes it into a 3-pitch route.
I brought gear for the crux 3rd pitch but didn't find it necessary to supplement the bolts. Still it's there if you need it. A couple varied pieces would suffice.
For the finish. If you are used to Indian Creek widehands, ... more >>
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Super Cat of the Desert (5.12)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great description Josh!
I used your rope beta and it worked great.
I'm not really sure what is holding that hollow flake on the wall. If a climber pulled it off it could be ugly!
Despite the issues in the first 50-feet, this is still one of the best climbs on the Cat Wall.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : The Scar : The Zipper (5.12c)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was my favorite route at the crag. Thoughtful with great movement utilizing slopers, sidepulls and underclings. Finish was a bit confusing. The bolt placement would make you think to go right when the practical finishing sequence went left. Nice job to the FA team!
|
Location: AZ : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Right Wall : Flavor of the Day (5.11+)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really cool route! Protected surprisingly well. I used a number of small wires. Triple grey Metolius or the equivalent will come in handy as well as doubles up to 0.4 Camelot. I used nothing larger than that.
|
Location: AZ : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Left Wall : Thick and Thin (5.11c/d)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Indistinguished and a bit scary at the start. Pro is excellent through the crux fingercrack corner. Slowly widens from fingers to cupped hands. Maybe not a Waterfall classic but still quite good and worth your time if you're in the area. I used doubles of the smallest cams and singles to #3 Camelot.
|
Location: AZ : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater : Death and Taxes (5.11+)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Aug 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route! I think a double set of cams to 0.5 Camelot and wires will suffice for gear (at least it did for me). This route is every bit as good as its next door neighbor, Could be Worse. It is more straightforward at the steep finish. There is some really cool jamming in the flare. Between the well-placed bolts and the gear, this route is very safe and not scary. My greatest concern was keeping my rope from falling into the poison oak at the base. I spent sometime pruning today.
|
Location: AZ : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Right Wall : Soul Market (5.12-)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Aug 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seemed more scary than hard. Lots of good stances to place small pro from. From the ledge to the top, I did not place anything larger than a blue camelot (the smaller blue). A good route but not a great route like American Caesar or Barbarian Rising.
|
RSS Feed
