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Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum with my wife.


Member Since: Nov 7, 2002
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact Michael Schneiter


Point Rank: # 40
Total Points: 3,803
Last Year: 1,822
Last 30 Days: 11
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Areas are worth 15
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Michael Schneiter

 
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All (1323) | Routes (153) | Areas (40) | Photos (310) | Comments (123) | Posts (169) | Stars (519) | Ratings (9)
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location  Great Image  Date
The "cheap" bolt from Lowe's didn't fail but it also got pretty mangled along with the old hanger leftover from the Puoux rebolting efforts. Of course, it experienced a straight out pull, one that is not typical in a climbing fall unless on an overhanging route.

The "cheap" bolt from Lowe's didn't fail but it also got pretty mangled along with the old hanger leftover from the Puoux rebolting efforts. Of course, it experienced a straight out pull, on

Michael Schneiter : Bolt Drop Test

1 person

Jun 7, 2009

The gate on the carabiner popped outside the biner and wouldn't return. Pretty wild to think about the forces involved.

The gate on the carabiner popped outside the biner and wouldn't return. Pretty wild to think about the forces involved.

Michael Schneiter : Bolt Drop Test

Jun 7, 2009

The bolt, hanger and biner on the test block got kind of mangled but didn't fail.

The bolt, hanger and biner on the test block got kind of mangled but didn't fail.

Michael Schneiter : Bolt Drop Test

Jun 7, 2009

And the result: The flake held and the test block was left swinging in mid air. However, I was so amazed that the flake held that I went up and checked it out with a crowbar. It easily came out when levered out on. Of course, that begs the question: How many whippers would it have held before failing? Or, if someone pulled out on it, would it have failed? Either way, I removed the flake because after seeing how loose it wasy I didn't feel right in leaving it there. Then, I added a new bolt.

And the result: The flake held and the test block was left swinging in mid air. However, I was so amazed that the flake held that I went up and checked it out with a crowbar. It easily came out when l

Michael Schneiter : Bolt Drop Test

Jun 7, 2009

The drop test block in position. It was set up to simulate a leader fall from the bolt above the suspect bolt with some slack in the system to simulate pulling up slack to clip the bolt, etc. The bolt above the suspect bolt was only about 5 feet above so not a big runout.

The drop test block in position. It was set up to simulate a leader fall from the bolt above the suspect bolt with some slack in the system to simulate pulling up slack to clip the bolt, etc. The bolt

Michael Schneiter : Bolt Drop Test

Jun 7, 2009

Looking up at the drop test block in position at the bolt above the suspect bolt.

Looking up at the drop test block in position at the bolt above the suspect bolt.

Michael Schneiter : Bolt Drop Test

Jun 7, 2009

"On belay"

"On belay"

Michael Schneiter : Bolt Drop Test

Jun 7, 2009

A "cheap" wedge bolt from Lowe's and an old hanger salvaged from the Puoux rebolting efforts.

A "cheap" wedge bolt from Lowe's and an old hanger salvaged from the Puoux rebolting efforts.

Michael Schneiter : Bolt Drop Test

Jun 7, 2009

The drop test dummy. Weighed in at 200 pounds on a bathroom scale.

The drop test dummy. Weighed in at 200 pounds on a bathroom scale.

Michael Schneiter : Bolt Drop Test

Jun 7, 2009

The suspect bolt.

The suspect bolt.

Michael Schneiter : Bolt Drop Test

Jun 7, 2009

The suspect bolt.

The suspect bolt.

Michael Schneiter : Bolt Drop Test

Jun 7, 2009

The suspect bolt placement. A flake that is clearly cracked all the way around. You can do a thin hand jam between the flake and the wall.

The suspect bolt placement. A flake that is clearly cracked all the way around. You can do a thin hand jam between the flake and the wall.

Michael Schneiter : Bolt Drop Test

Jun 7, 2009

Pussy Pie at the Surgery Buttress, Glenwood Canyon.

Pussy Pie at the Surgery Buttress, Glenwood Canyon.

CO : Glenwood Springs : ... : Smells Like Pussy (5.10d)

May 21, 2009

A new 1/2" stainless bolt on Urban Cowboy.

A new 1/2" stainless bolt on Urban Cowboy.

Michael Schneiter : Puoux Rebolting Photos

May 20, 2009

An old 3/8" bolt on Urban Cowboy.

An old 3/8" bolt on Urban Cowboy.

Michael Schneiter : Puoux Rebolting Photos

May 20, 2009

Old hardware from the Puoux rebolting work.

Old hardware from the Puoux rebolting work.

Michael Schneiter : Puoux Rebolting Photos

May 20, 2009

The old hole next to the new bolt on the 6th (?) bolt of Urban Cowboy.

The old hole next to the new bolt on the 6th (?) bolt of Urban Cowboy.

Michael Schneiter : Puoux Rebolting Photos

May 20, 2009

One of the bolts in the upper roof section of Urban Cowboy (I believe the 6th bolt). You can see how the rock had fractured from underneath the bolt as it wasn't placed in a good, perpendicular alignment.

One of the bolts in the upper roof section of Urban Cowboy (I believe the 6th bolt). You can see how the rock had fractured from underneath the bolt as it wasn't placed in a good, perpendicular alignm

Michael Schneiter : Puoux Rebolting Photos

May 20, 2009

The new anchor for Urban Cowboy at the Puoux, Glenwood Canyon.

The new anchor for Urban Cowboy at the Puoux, Glenwood Canyon.

Michael Schneiter : Puoux Rebolting Photos

May 20, 2009

The old anchor for Urban Cowboy at the Puoux, Glenwood Canyon.

The old anchor for Urban Cowboy at the Puoux, Glenwood Canyon.

Michael Schneiter : Puoux Rebolting Photos

May 20, 2009

The new belay/rappel anchor for The Long Haul at the Puoux, Glenwood Canyon.

The new belay/rappel anchor for The Long Haul at the Puoux, Glenwood Canyon.

Michael Schneiter : Puoux Rebolting Photos

May 20, 2009

One of the old bolts at the old belay/rappel anchor for The Long Haul at the Puoux, Glenwood Canyon.

One of the old bolts at the old belay/rappel anchor for The Long Haul at the Puoux, Glenwood Canyon.

Michael Schneiter : Puoux Rebolting Photos

May 20, 2009

The old belay/rappel anchor for The Long Haul at the Puoux, Glenwood Canyon.

The old belay/rappel anchor for The Long Haul at the Puoux, Glenwood Canyon.

Michael Schneiter : Puoux Rebolting Photos

May 20, 2009

With Dusty, after topping out Atlantis in the Black. I taught Dusty how to climb when he was a freshman in high school. Now he's my ropegun. What a bargain!

With Dusty, after topping out Atlantis in the Black. I taught Dusty how to climb when he was a freshman in high school. Now he's my ropegun. What a bargain!

Michael Schneiter : Photos

May 20, 2009

"Aaaaah!" Why do I just know I'm going to get poison ivy in a few days? In the Black, on the approach to Atlantis.

"Aaaaah!" Why do I just know I'm going to get poison ivy in a few days? In the Black, on the approach to Atlantis.

Michael Schneiter : Photos

May 20, 2009

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