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Location: CO : Carbondale : The Frying Pan : The Skillet : The Camel Head (5.11b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: At the beginning of the second pitch there are several holds marked with an "x" including one large flake that is seriously loose but didn't have an "x" on it before yesterday. It has an "x" now but be careful climbing through this section.
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Location: IA : Gitchie Manitou
By: Michael Schneiter When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: How about adding directions to Gitchie Manitou?
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Grizzly Creek Wall (aka Mud...
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice Chris. There is a lot of "mud" up there but there's also a lot of amazing rock. There's a ton of potential in Glenwood Canyon but there's a whole lot of choss too. Michael Kennedy and Harvey Carter climbed a 2-3 pitch line in the quartzite above Glenwood Falls. Sounded okay. So, yes, there's some climbing potential there but nothing to quit your job for.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The stuff in the guidebook is newer than the stuff here although there are some new climbs (added by Evan) that aren't in the guidebook. That may be part of the confusion. Plus, because many of the climbs don't have known names, mp.com has a bunch of numbers that can be a little confusing.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Harlequin Dome : Hoodwink (5.10a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thought this route was super rad and makes for a great day (or afternoon) when combined with The Sting and By Hook Or By Crook.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : The Airy Block : Roadside Fin : South Face Right Side (5.11)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There was a bolt placed in a very suspect flake at the crux of this climb. Check out photos to see the drop test results. The flake was removed and a new bolt was added.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Diemos Cliff : Goldfinger (5.12a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you don't like giving beta then you shouldn't make route contributions. MP is a community resource so a decent approach description would be a good place to start. Thanks for at least updating that part. However, it's kind of funny that you say the climb is on your left as you approach it because there wouldn't be any climbs on your right, since to your right would be downhill.
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Location: Red Dogg : Me : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If is he wearing a harness bouldering?
What a noob!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Freerider (5.12d PG13) : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why do people do lame shit and then post pictures of it on the Internet?
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Main Wall : Hard Kor (5.12b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two of the three bolts plus the shared bolt with Kor's Corner have been replaced with fresh stainless steel hardware from Climbing Magazine's Anchor Replacement Initiative.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Road Runner (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Mike Yellico.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : NoName 6.5 (5.11a/b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Mike Yellico.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : NoName 5 aka Roadside Attra... (5.8)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Mike Yellico.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : NoName 4.5 (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The third bolt on this climb was replaced because it was in super hollow rock, a flake feature. The new stainless steel hardware is from Climbing Magazine's Anchor Replacement Initiative.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Two Tone (5.12a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It appears I made the last 12a send of this route. A couple of holds broke tonight, including a large and important hold, now making the route significantly harder than 12a.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Unknown 5.Easy (5.3)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Someone can correct me on the rating on this. All I can say is it was really easy (free soloed it in my approach shoes).
There are also two short bolted lines another 20 yards to the right and uphill of this route. They are both 3 bolts and about 20 feet tall and climb in a little overhang feature.. I have heard them described as one star routes but haven't climbed them myself.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Road Runner (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchor on this climb was recently updated with stainless steel hardware donated by Climbing Magazine's Anchor Replacement Initiative. I left the two old bolts at the top to make it easier for people wanting to set up a toprope but removed the old chain.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : NoName 5 aka Roadside Attra... (5.8)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The third bolt was replaced and the first two bolts were updated and moved slightly with permission of the first ascentionist. New stainless steel hardware was from Climbing Magazine's Anchor Replacement Initiative.
Here's the link to the discussion about this route's bolts (forum post) . Check it out if you want to see what ... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : Great White Book (5.6 R)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, big cams are necessary. A few summers ago I sprained my ankle while in the area and was relegated to toproping/seconding climbs close to the road for a few days. My wife chose the Great White Book as a climb to lead me up. At the car I said, "don't you think you should take a couple of big cams." "Oh no," she replied, "I don't want to carry those big, heavy things." Sure enough, we get to the wide corner pitch and none of her cams will fit so she just ran it out the whole pitch. Yikes!
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Surgery Buttress : Rehab (5.12a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. Thought it was a bit more sustained in nature than Rehab with a couple of interesting cruxes, particularly the top crux, which Jeff describes as a "Verdon-style slab finish." It's a set of moves that many will find themselves "on edge" for, as you're making a pretty good move, kinda awkward, with the bolt at your foot, or at least that's how I did it.
Technically this route finishes at the threaded anchor shared with Smells Like Victory but there's a lot of loose rock (mostly pebbl... more >>
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Surgery Buttress
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Surgery Buttress is one of my favorite crags in Glenwood Canyon. Easy access and great rock with fun routes. Afternoon sun or morning shade, depending on what you're looking for. Dries out quick.
Routes, listed R->L, or as approached:
Smooth Operator, 5.10d
Special Gift for Girls, 5.12a
Surgery Buttress, 5.10b
Pre Op, 5.10d
Connective Tissue, 5.10d
The Knife, 5.12a
Post Op, 5.11d
Rehab, 5.12a
Smells Like Victory, 5.11c
Smells Like Pussy, 5.10d
Pussy Pie, 5.11a
Bitchy Bitch, 5.11... more >>
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've got the old Rock & Ice that lists routes for Homestake. I'll pull it out. If I recall it's from the mid-90s(?) and it's the kind of thing you don't see anymore. Great crag. I did a bunch of my early climbing there.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Main Wall : NoName 18 aka Kor's Corner (5.11a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts underneath the roof (4th and 5th bolts) were recently rebolted with new stainless steel hardware donated by Climbing Magazine's Anchor Replacement Initiative. The fourth bolt had to be moved slightly, but I think it's still in a good spot. If anyone disagrees, please let me know.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Surgery Buttress : The Knife (5.12a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another great route, IMO. Bouldery crux through the first two bolts. It's slightly easier after that but far from over. Sustained climbing of a thoughtful nature on great rock before a "sporty" set of face moves above the fifth bolt.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Surgery Buttress : Post Op (5.11d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route and probably one of the best in Glenwood Canyon. Good, bouldery crux on great rock through the first two bolts. The climbing lets up but it's still engaging, including a good little runout at the 5th or 6th bolt.
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