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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Better than Bitter (5.10b)
By: Michael MacFadden When: Aug 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just climbed this today. It looks like there was a bolt chopped right before the big horizontal crack. The climb is still perfectly safe with out this bolt. It did seem to protect the hand jam move. Does any one know why this was removed (Bad condition, unnecessary, etc?).
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Pentapitch (5.8)
By: Michael MacFadden When: Sep 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, squirrels managed to open my pack, which was hanging from a tree, take a clif bar and then zip the pack back up. Crafty those squirrels... .
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Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Red Cliff Campground
By: Michael MacFadden When: Sep 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It very well could be. The only limestone I have climbed has tended to be a darker gray color. I suppose I have seen some that is more of a tan as well. I read somewehre else that this was sandstone, and looking at the rock it was very red. However, the ground there was saturated with what looked like red clay. So as you point out I suppose this could be limestone stained by the red clay.
The rock formation did have a lot of pockets typical of limestone, so it is very possible.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Ambush Wall. : Boiler Maker (5.10-)
By: Michael MacFadden When: Jun 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route for some one to start lead on some 5.10 overhung routes. Overhung but bomber hands and feet. Pulling up on the last bolt you can't see the chains over the last bulge, but they are right there only about 4 feet up and to the right of the last bolt.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curve - Lower Wall : Skid Row Variation (5.11b)
By: Michael MacFadden When: Jun 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is pretty fun if you like bouldery starts. It feels V3-ish up and over the roof. It's just a matter of figuring out the sequence and moving through it efficiently. After the roof your just on a 5.9 face to the top.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Treehugger (5.10b)
By: Michael MacFadden When: Jun 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route, seems a little harder than 10b at first glance. Balance and footwork is key for the crux.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Winds of Fire (5.10a)
By: Michael MacFadden When: Jun 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route. There is some stemming, pockets, crimps, roofs, etc. The exposure is great as is the view from the top. Climb efficiently in the beginning because it just keeps going.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Platinum Blonde (5.10a)
By: Michael MacFadden When: Jun 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a pretty fun climb. It kind of zig-zags up the face a bit so look around to see where the next bolts are. The last bolt is probably the most fun section.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Witchhunt (5.10a)
By: Michael MacFadden When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route to start leading over a roof. The holds are there and pretty big if you get your feet in the right spot. One caution if lowering or repelling off, if you attempt to stay to the right until lowering past the roof, you will swing a great deal and your rope will be dragged over a fairly nasty edge. Oh and watch for the tree just below the chains.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Salem's Lot (5.10c)
By: Michael MacFadden When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think we can judge the difficulty of this route against dog pile. The word on the street is that dog pile is severely sand-bagged. Also, this is definitely harder than wichhunt right next to it which has a 10a rating, so I would give this at least a 10b.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Ambush Wall. : Chug A Jug (5.8+)
By: Michael MacFadden When: May 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, I think the chains are shared for Chug a Jug and the unknown 5.8 next to it. Bong a Long seems to have a separate set of chains.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : MEGA (5.9-)
By: Michael MacFadden When: Apr 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not a bad route. It's pretty dirty in some spots, and the rock formation really seems to send falling rocks outward quite a ways. Take care in where you stand for the belay.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : The Confessional (5.6)
By: Michael MacFadden When: Sep 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great first chimney climb. Its easy and pretty fun if you haven't every done a chimney before. You can definitely TR of the extreme unction anchors, but expect a lot of rope drag. Also lowering some one on belay back behind the chock stone at the start is interesting, but not to bad.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Inner Light (5.7)
By: Michael MacFadden When: Sep 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The left of the two top anchor bolts is starting to spin.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Winky and Waxman Go Bolting (5.11b)
By: Michael MacFadden When: Aug 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: For those who think this is rated harder than it is, there are a bunch of chalk marks in the crack off to the right of the bolt line. If you use either the crack or the rock face to the right this climb is more like an 8.
If you do the sit start and climb the bolt line (as if you were leading) and stay out of the crack it definitely feels like 5.11 moves. Sure its short, but if you had a sustained 5.9 with this section, it would definitely be rated an 11.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : Errors of Our Ways (5.6)
By: Michael MacFadden When: Aug 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a nice route. Definitely a 5.6, but its easier than Iraq in the Back Attack. Good for a first lead on a 5.6.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Sweet and Low (5.5)
By: Michael MacFadden When: Aug 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Feels like a 5.5 for sure. If you stay to the right of the bolts its like walking up stairs. This would be a good first lead for a new leader.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : Iraq in the Back Attack (5.6)
By: Michael MacFadden When: Aug 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are 2 chains at the top, and only 6 bolts on the way up. I don't think the route is 110 feet (33m one way) since you can do it with a 60m rope. A 50m rope comes up a bit short. So the route is probably somewhere between 85 and 90 feet.
The route starts out easy up to the first 2 bolts. The area between the second and third bolts is the crux. After that it gets real juggy. Nice ledge at the top near the chains to set up an anchor.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Dam Wall : Fall Equinox (5.8+)
By: Michael MacFadden When: Aug 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route can vary in difficulty based on how you climb it. Stay in the crack to the right of the bolts all the way up to make this a 5.7. Climb the bolt route to make it more like a 5.8. Climb to the left of the bolts and you are looking at a 5.8+ or a 5.9.
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