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Location: UT : West Desert : Western Hardman (5.11)
By: michael layton When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this route having to import my partner from the PNW. I felt it was extremly well protected and the grades were not sandbagged in the least. The only jingus pitch was the 1st 50 feet of pitch two, but everything else was tons o' fun. You definately don't need to be a hardman or woman. I felt the triples on the rack reccomendation was a bit much, but the godsend pitch has a bonus final section that requires one last large cam (a 3.5 or 4) and a couple hand sized pieces you can put in the ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Mt. Superior/Monte Cristo : The Cottonwood Traverse (5.6)
By: michael layton When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sounds like a good winter tour James! That timp traverse sounds pretty fun too - I'll have to try it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Question Mark Wall : Out of the Question (5.10b)
By: michael layton When: Aug 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What an AMAZING climb!
Every pitch is awesome. The dihedral in the 1st pitch is sporty gear, and the wild horn moves up to the belay is mind-blowing. The belay is super sketchy and doesn't take extra gear very well - I slung a chockstone and backed it up to the pins.
The 2nd pitch crux is really hard. As with Hyperform, if you can climb 10b in the cirque you're solid on 10b pretty much anywhere.
I did not set any sort of speed record on the last pitch! There are cam placements to ease the mind,... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : South Summit Wall : Center Thumb (5.9+)
By: michael layton When: Aug 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Route!
Linking pitches is a bit hard with rope-drag. I thought the 1st pitch was the crux - moving left out of the big crack gets a bit thin on the gear. 5.7 climbing with 5.9 gear. My favorite is the pitch before the 5.9 handcrack. Beautiful climbing on knobs with a bomber crack for gear!!!
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Location: UT : West Desert : Book of Saturday (5.11a R)
By: michael layton When: Jul 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments:
I just got back from a seriously failed attempt on linking Western Hardman with book of Saturdays. We found a great "protected" spot on the ledge just below and to the right of Book of Saturday and set up camp. The next morning we went back down to climb western hardman so we could simply walk over to our camp and do BOS the next day. Great plan, eh? Well one pitch up W.H. it started to rain and it wound up raining most of the day, so we went into Delta to dry out and get some mo... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Hellgate, Main Cliff : Till Hell Freezes Over (5.11b)
By: michael layton When: Jun 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did the variation to the right - it links in just below the 5.11- pitch and continues to the top of this route. Awesome climb!!!!!! Only a few cams (2x#0.5, 1x#2) are needed on P1 (a yellow TCU to a Blue camamlot fit, but you don't need a full rack so maybe take one of every other size). Pitch two was really really fun and STEEP!!!.
Thanks for putting up the route!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon : Zephyr (5.10c)
By: michael layton When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Trying to post photos, let's see if this works
(Frozen Assests on left of rib, cool looking winter line on right)
looking down the 10c pitch during a cleaning ses... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon : Zephyr (5.10c)
By: michael layton When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Driving Directions:
Take the Mona exit on I-15 and head into town (away from the mountain), make a right on the main drag, and another right onto the quarry road that goes back under the interstate. Take the right hand fork at the quarry, and on the road further up. Park at the metal posts.
Cross the river (flip flops handy), and head up the talus gully directly below the climb. Following the sides of the rock spurs makes it easier. There is a giant white boulder 3/4 way up. The approach takes... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon : Zephyr (5.10c) : Photo
By: michael layton When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's quite the butt shot James
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Dorsal Fin (5.10d) : Photo
By: michael layton When: Apr 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: is that a bolt that's clipped with a long sling on the left just above the undercling flake?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : MEGA (5.9-)
By: michael layton When: Apr 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another great new route!
I highly reccomend that the anchors be lowered a couple feet. My 60m didn't quite make it and since it's such a popular area and 5.9 is such a popular grade, I can see bad things happening on a great climb. Luckily the fall would only be a couple feet, but still....
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Worthy Whoopsie (5.11-)
By: michael layton When: Apr 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really enjoyed the 1st pitch of this route! Awesome awesome line.
The 2nd pitch is incedibly fun, but incredibly contrived - which is fine since our entire sport is pretty contrived and stupid....as long as it's fun.
Be careful lowering/rappelling from the 2nd to the 1st pitch anchors - still some loose rock in the gully.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Hand Jive (5.8)
By: michael layton When: Apr 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure but I think the undercling fell off. May be a lot harder/sketchier now
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Mexican Crack (5.10a)
By: michael layton When: Apr 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gotta say that if the start is 5.9+ then the diagnaling crack is 5.6/5.7ish!!! I laughed my ass off when I saw it was rated 5.10a and the start 5.9+.
It's funny when people say that a climb is easy if you have the moves dialed. 5.12's are pretty easy when you have them totally dialed. My thoughts are that our F.A. forfathers were just a-holes.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Moroni : Voice from the Dust (5.11b/c)
By: michael layton When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did the 1st four pitches. We got blown off the climb and were happy to get out ropes back. If it was awesome doing it with a leaf blower going off in your ear, then it must be really fun. I'll have to go back and finish it.
One reccomendation: tape your hands for the 2nd pitch and 3x #.5-#2 camalots are choice. I found the sport pitch no harder than 10d. It doesn't look like it, but a gold camalot helps protect the start.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Bits and Pieces (5.11a/b)
By: michael layton When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! Definately got worked. The summit pitch was exciting for sure. The route description and gear beta are perfect.
Note on the raps. Pitch 10, 9, and 8 can be rappelled with a single 70meter and I reccomend doing so to avoid rope calamity. Bring plenty of tat. I used some really light supertape to back a couple raps up, but this route could really use a complete tat refresher.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon : Frozen Assets Ice Climb (WI5)
By: michael layton When: Feb 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've climbed many routes and FAs with no bolts and have had plenty of sketchy raps. I've had my entire anchor fall out when the rock on the right side of my anchor just fall off. I've rapped off my nut tool keeper cord slung around a pebble wedged in a crack. I'll complain about someone adding protection bolts unless it's to replace old ones, but will never ever complain about the addition of anchor bolts.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon : Frozen Assets Ice Climb (WI5)
By: michael layton When: Feb 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks again for a fun day out James.
I enjoyed this more than Stairway. Although Stairway is a touch more difficult, it loses much from the crowds and highway. I don't get why more people aren't on this thing. There was a nice path (albiet covered in snow) and very little elevation gain on the approach. When it's in banner, there would be a TON of potential for other long lines and mixed routes galore.
I give the climb a Pabst Blue Ribbon, and a Seagrams Five Star.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Lizard Rock : Leapin' Lizards (5.10- R)
By: michael layton When: Dec 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: you can get a #1 camalot above the bolt between the flake and the formation, and a #3 camalot a bit higher too
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : The Cobra (5.11b R)
By: michael layton When: Dec 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: you can get a BOMBER .5 camalot just left of the drilled angle in that left hand side-pull. It's a blind placement however, so place it, and really yank on it to make sure it'll hold if you blow it while clipping the angle. The summit moves are very easy so the #3 camalot isn't necessary. I nested a #1 and #2 camalot at the base of the neck to keep me from decking.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a)
By: michael layton When: Dec 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Between the bolt and drilled angle, you can get a small stopper or HB offset on the key handhold on the left wall. It was pretty damn bomber.
After the drilled angle, a #4 big bro would be extremely helpful.
Burly burly burly 1st pitch!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Woman of Mountain Dreams (5.11a/b)
By: michael layton When: Oct 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just got of it - we were worried about time since it's getting dark quickly but with a 4am wake up call at the campground, we were eating hot dogs and chili by 7!
The approach took a bit longer in the darkness, and the schwack past inti to the col was a bit annoying...oh well.
The 1st 3 pitches aren't bad, the next two sport pitches are well protected, but the bolt after you pull over the roof is farther than we expected. We linked the 2 pitches with a 60m after the 4th class (actually 4th cl... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson
By: michael layton When: Oct 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm giving my vote for the Oak Creek Canyon descent. It's really quick and easy - only one rap is needed and it's a fixed line already set-up, it's really pretty and FUN (yes it's fun). We did it in 2.5 hours back to the car from the summit. Also, the walk to the car at the oak creek pull-out off the main highway is way shorter than the 1st creek slog. I've done it twice now.
Simple simple beta:
1.From the top, head down the gentle ridge until you are funneled into a gorgeous grove of ancient... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+)
By: michael layton When: Oct 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best routes in Red Rocks with little yawm potential (ok maybe p.1). I think that pitch 6 was the scariest, the last bolt and the journey from there to the anchor required some mental fortitude. Good warm-up for more serious climbs. I never felt any "cruxes" as I was more focused on getting in gear or to the next bolt. It could have been 5.6 or 5.11
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : CoalPit Buttress : Stiffler's Mom (5.11a)
By: michael layton When: Sep 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route was a fun quick little romp with some really short but fun and well protected cruxes. Like most modern multipitch routes squeezed in for climbing sake, not for the actual aesthetics of the line, it goes really really quick. There's no reason whatsoever to go beyond the last bolted station, I'd choose a different way up if I wanted a summit adventure. Kudos to the hard work for putting it up, it's a fun ride for sure. A couple pitches are very overbolted which is my only complaint,... more >>
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