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Location: UT : West Desert : Western Hardman (5.11)
By: michael layton When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this route having to import my partner from the PNW. I felt it was extremly well protected and the grades were not sandbagged in the least. The only jingus pitch was the 1st 50 feet of pitch two, but everything else was tons o' fun. You definately don't need to be a hardman or woman. I felt the triples on the rack reccomendation was a bit much, but the godsend pitch has a bonus final section that requires one last large cam (a 3.5 or 4) and a couple hand sized pieces you can put in the ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Mt. Superior/Monte Cristo : The Cottonwood Traverse (5.6)
By: michael layton When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sounds like a good winter tour James! That timp traverse sounds pretty fun too - I'll have to try it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Question Mark Wall : Out of the Question (5.10b)
By: michael layton When: Aug 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What an AMAZING climb!
Every pitch is awesome. The dihedral in the 1st pitch is sporty gear, and the wild horn moves up to the belay is mind-blowing. The belay is super sketchy and doesn't take extra gear very well - I slung a chockstone and backed it up to the pins.
The 2nd pitch crux is really hard. As with Hyperform, if you can climb 10b in the cirque you're solid on 10b pretty much anywhere.
I did not set any sort of speed record on the last pitch! There are cam placements to ease the mind,... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : South Summit Wall : Center Thumb (5.9+)
By: michael layton When: Aug 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Route!
Linking pitches is a bit hard with rope-drag. I thought the 1st pitch was the crux - moving left out of the big crack gets a bit thin on the gear. 5.7 climbing with 5.9 gear. My favorite is the pitch before the 5.9 handcrack. Beautiful climbing on knobs with a bomber crack for gear!!!
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Location: UT : West Desert : Book of Saturday (5.11a R)
By: michael layton When: Jul 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments:
I just got back from a seriously failed attempt on linking Western Hardman with book of Saturdays. We found a great "protected" spot on the ledge just below and to the right of Book of Saturday and set up camp. The next morning we went back down to climb western hardman so we could simply walk over to our camp and do BOS the next day. Great plan, eh? Well one pitch up W.H. it started to rain and it wound up raining most of the day, so we went into Delta to dry out and get some mo... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Hellgate, Main Cliff : Till Hell Freezes Over (5.11b)
By: michael layton When: Jun 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did the variation to the right - it links in just below the 5.11- pitch and continues to the top of this route. Awesome climb!!!!!! Only a few cams (2x#0.5, 1x#2) are needed on P1 (a yellow TCU to a Blue camamlot fit, but you don't need a full rack so maybe take one of every other size). Pitch two was really really fun and STEEP!!!.
Thanks for putting up the route!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon : Zephyr (5.10c)
By: michael layton When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Trying to post photos, let's see if this works
(Frozen Assests on left of rib, cool looking winter line on right)
looking down the 10c pitch during a cleaning ses... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon : Zephyr (5.10c)
By: michael layton When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Driving Directions:
Take the Mona exit on I-15 and head into town (away from the mountain), make a right on the main drag, and another right onto the quarry road that goes back under the interstate. Take the right hand fork at the quarry, and on the road further up. Park at the metal posts.
Cross the river (flip flops handy), and head up the talus gully directly below the climb. Following the sides of the rock spurs makes it easier. There is a giant white boulder 3/4 way up. The approach takes... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon : Zephyr (5.10c) : Photo
By: michael layton When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's quite the butt shot James
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Dorsal Fin (5.10d) : Photo
By: michael layton When: Apr 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: is that a bolt that's clipped with a long sling on the left just above the undercling flake?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : MEGA (5.9-)
By: michael layton When: Apr 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another great new route!
I highly reccomend that the anchors be lowered a couple feet. My 60m didn't quite make it and since it's such a popular area and 5.9 is such a popular grade, I can see bad things happening on a great climb. Luckily the fall would only be a couple feet, but still....
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Worthy Whoopsie (5.11-)
By: michael layton When: Apr 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really enjoyed the 1st pitch of this route! Awesome awesome line.
The 2nd pitch is incedibly fun, but incredibly contrived - which is fine since our entire sport is pretty contrived and stupid....as long as it's fun.
Be careful lowering/rappelling from the 2nd to the 1st pitch anchors - still some loose rock in the gully.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Hand Jive (5.8)
By: michael layton When: Apr 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure but I think the undercling fell off. May be a lot harder/sketchier now
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Mexican Crack (5.10a)
By: michael layton When: Apr 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gotta say that if the start is 5.9+ then the diagnaling crack is 5.6/5.7ish!!! I laughed my ass off when I saw it was rated 5.10a and the start 5.9+.
It's funny when people say that a climb is easy if you have the moves dialed. 5.12's are pretty easy when you have them totally dialed. My thoughts are that our F.A. forfathers were just a-holes.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Moroni : Voice from the Dust (5.11b/c)
By: michael layton When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did the 1st four pitches. We got blown off the climb and were happy to get out ropes back. If it was awesome doing it with a leaf blower going off in your ear, then it must be really fun. I'll have to go back and finish it.
One reccomendation: tape your hands for the 2nd pitch and 3x #.5-#2 camalots are choice. I found the sport pitch no harder than 10d. It doesn't look like it, but a gold camalot helps protect the start.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Bits and Pieces (5.11a/b)
By: michael layton When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! Definately got worked. The summit pitch was exciting for sure. The route description and gear beta are perfect.
Note on the raps. Pitch 10, 9, and 8 can be rappelled with a single 70meter and I reccomend doing so to avoid rope calamity. Bring plenty of tat. I used some really light supertape to back a couple raps up, but this route could really use a complete tat refresher.
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