Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
 Trad gumby tries to go sport on the Lion King, January, 2007


Member Since: Jan 23, 2008
Last Visit: Jan 6, 2014
Contact Michael Ybarra


Point Rank: # 3,376
Total Points: 134
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
7 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Michael Ybarra been climbing?










Contributions


All 202 | Routes | Areas | Photos 17 | Page Improvments | Comments 49 | Posts 105 | Stars 31 | Ratings
Page 1 of 9.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
 The mental crux is pulling the roof and busting some thin moves on no pro for two body lengths. The technical crux is the second roof (no pics). Photo by Kris Solem.

The mental crux is pulling the roof and busting some thin moves on no pro for two body lengths. The technical crux is the second roof (no pics). Photo by Kris Solem.

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Importance of Being Ern... (5.10c/d R)

Apr 6, 2009

Double up the C3s in the roof and go for it. Pic by Kris Solem.

Double up the C3s in the roof and go for it. Pic by Kris Solem.

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Importance of Being Ern... (5.10c/d R)

Apr 6, 2009

The first crux of the climb. Pic by Kris Solem.

The first crux of the climb. Pic by Kris Solem.

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Importance of Being Ern... (5.10c/d R)

Apr 6, 2009

The burly crack start. Pic by Kris Solem.

The burly crack start. Pic by Kris Solem.

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Importance of Being Ern... (5.10c/d R)

Apr 6, 2009

P2 on Kidd Falls.

P2 on Kidd Falls.

Michael Ybarra : Canada ice

Mar 21, 2009

 Topping out on Bug Spire, full winter conditions, week before Labor Day.

Topping out on Bug Spire, full winter conditions, week before Labor Day.

Michael Ybarra : Bugs 2007

May 22, 2008

 Entering the chimney system on Bug Spire. Note the useless chalk bag.

Entering the chimney system on Bug Spire. Note the useless chalk bag.

Michael Ybarra : Bugs 2007

May 22, 2008

 Howser Peak from Pigeon Spire. We had been lusting after Becky-Chouinard but during two weeks in the Bugs word was that the route was out of condition and we never had enough settled weather to hike into East Creek to give it a go. Next time. Maybe.

Howser Peak from Pigeon Spire. We had been lusting after Becky-Chouinard but during two weeks in the Bugs word was that the route was out of condition and we never had enough settled weather to hike

Michael Ybarra : Bugs 2007

Jan 23, 2008

 Snowpatch Spire from the top of McTech Arete.

Snowpatch Spire from the top of McTech Arete.

Michael Ybarra : Bugs 2007

Jan 23, 2008

 Bug Spire from the top of McTech Arete

Bug Spire from the top of McTech Arete

Michael Ybarra : Bugs 2007

Jan 23, 2008

 Backwards: After climbing and rapping the NE ridge of Bug Spire, we decided to run up the Kain Route a couple of days later.

Backwards: After climbing and rapping the NE ridge of Bug Spire, we decided to run up the Kain Route a couple of days later.

Michael Ybarra : Bugs 2007

Jan 23, 2008

 Snowpatch Spire. Up the couloir, then follow the ridge past the patch and up to the summit.

Snowpatch Spire. Up the couloir, then follow the ridge past the patch and up to the summit.

Michael Ybarra : Bugs 2007

Jan 23, 2008

Liz soloing Snowpatch Spire

Liz soloing Snowpatch Spire

Michael Ybarra : Bugs 2007

Jan 23, 2008

 Silvio looking for a way across the 'shrund the day before we climbed a possible new direct line on the Shield of Huascaran Sur.

Silvio looking for a way across the 'shrund the day before we climbed a possible new direct line on the Shield of Huascaran Sur.

Michael Ybarra : Blanca 2007

Jan 23, 2008

Silvio on the fore summit of the Dent du Geant.

Silvio on the fore summit of the Dent du Geant.

Michael Ybarra : Alps 2006

Jan 23, 2008

 Silvio on Rasac (with Siula Grande looming behind). It was a fun day until our rap off the crappy rock face turned into an epic and we wound up spending the night out on a ledge without bivy gear at 18k.

Silvio on Rasac (with Siula Grande looming behind). It was a fun day until our rap off the crappy rock face turned into an epic and we wound up spending the night out on a ledge without bivy gear at

Michael Ybarra : Huayhuash 2007

Jan 23, 2008

 Trad gumby tries to go sport on the Lion King, January, 2007

Trad gumby tries to go sport on the Lion King, January, 2007

Michael Ybarra : Tonsai 2007

Jan 23, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Pratt's Crack (5.9)
By: Michael Ybarra When: Jun 18, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I found big gear of very little use. Low on the route there's a pod deep in the crack that takes a #4 (or probably something else on the side), which I was glad to place between the slung chockstones. Any place I tried to use a #6 it was so tipped out that I wouldn't have dared to fall on it. The only secure place for it was to protect the exit moves, which were easy and by that time I was runout 25 feet anyway. A #5 is useless. The small crack on the left wall that others hav... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Torque Wrench (5.11)
By: Michael Ybarra When: Apr 29, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: A fun route that throws a lot at you. About 150 feet. Bring two ropes to get off.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Rim Shot (5.11-)
By: Michael Ybarra When: Apr 5, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Partner and I both gave this one out of three stars. We did it in three pitches, linking 1&2 and 4&5. Some good climbing but a lot of sub par rock. The crux was definitely the overhanging 11 tight (super sandy) hands. Kind of a miserable pitch, I thought, leading to the choss exit pitch.

We rapped into the notch with a single 70. Rapped the first east face station there, although the rope didn't quite reach the next one. Close enough though to clip the anchor. The third rap easily reached the... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Learning to Crawl (5.11)
By: Michael Ybarra When: Apr 5, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Contrary to the topo in the IC guide, there are three bolts, not four in the second crux section. A drilled angle, a crack that takes a HB #6 nicely, a good new bolt (easy to clip), then a star drive.

If you're a chicken, like me, you can clip the top bolt, then retreat to the stance to figure out the moves. Although if you blow it, you'll be testing the star drive.

Tenuous, technical crux--but cool once you figure it out.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : East Face (Sunflower Tower) (5.10+)
By: Michael Ybarra When: Apr 1, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The first pitch description could be improved. There are two cracks at the base. The right one (shown in the beta photo) is a hand crack deep in a pod, then through a bulge. Awkward for sure. I placed two golds, a red and, then in the stem box above, two blues.

There's no way the second pitch is 5.11. I think even 10D is a stretch (this from a guy with big hands). I don't think it's that sustained, either. Sure, you have to bust a few moves, but there's a killer rest every few feet--and it's e... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Lighthouse Tower : Lonely Vigil (5.10)
By: Michael Ybarra When: Mar 28, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Excellent climb.

Placed an HB #6 above the bolted anchor to pro the stem crux.

On P3 we kept going on the traverse past the bolt, which puts you at a bolted anchor. There's a shinny new, huge rap anchor about five feet away from this station on the ledge. On the way down, we did a double rope rap back to the notch from the new P3 rap station. Ropes wouldn't pull. A team behind us try to free the ropes but they still wouldn't pull. The Boulder boys kindly moved the ropes to the old anch... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Bad Moki Roof (5.9)
By: Michael Ybarra When: Mar 28, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Anyone who thinks this is easier than Owl must be smoking crack. I didn't even think of using a rope on Owl, but Moki was no gimme. I did it twice and didn't find any jugs. Worth doing for sure.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lower Brother : Absolutely Free, Center (5.9)
By: Michael Ybarra When: Dec 30, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The approach isn't bad, the climbing is very fun, but the descent totally blows (took us longer than the climb), costing the overall experience at least a star. The ideal rack: doubles, green through blue, a #4 and a #5.


Page 1 of 9.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>