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 Trad gumby tries to go sport on the Lion King, January, 2007


Member Since: Jan 23, 2008
Last Visit: Jan 6, 2014
Contact Michael Ybarra


Point Rank: # 3,375
Total Points: 134
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
7 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Michael Ybarra been climbing?










Contributions


All 202 | Routes | Areas | Photos 17 | Page Improvments | Comments 49 | Posts 105 | Stars 31 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Grand Wall (5.11a A0)
By: Michael Ybarra When: Sep 14, 2008

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Comments: I linked P2 and 3 for a long traverse. There's some rope drag but as you're constantly moving right it's not bad, almost like a tension traverse.

John's right about the Apron Stings start being a great way to go; it makes for a more much striking journey up the wall.

I thought doubles to BD #3 were fine for the Split Pillar. I don't think anything bigger is needed unless you're shaky on crack climbing or maybe if you have really tiny hands.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Sunblessed (5.10c PG13)
By: Michael Ybarra When: Aug 25, 2008

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Comments: I really liked this climb, which has a terrific amount of variety.

The p1 dike moves weren't hard but because of the way the dike angles left almost every move felt off-balanced.

P2 was a textbook thin crack.

On p3, we took the left finish, which I thought was the best pitch: a couple of interesting face moves, some delicate stemming, and an interesting, hard-to-read exit move, with bolts and a little thin gear wherever you needed it. You could easily do both finishes, which I would have ... more >>


Location: Amy Denicke : Tuolomne Meadows August 06 : Photo
By: Michael Ybarra When: Jul 25, 2008

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Comments: It's Tenaya.

More beta than you probably need: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tenaya_Lake


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Blankety Blank (5.10c)
By: Michael Ybarra When: Jul 20, 2008

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Comments: I agree that the second bolt on p2 should be replaced. The last gear was a micronut 10 feet below it. That manky bolt is the only thing between the crux and the anchors--or you and eternity, depending on how you look at it. P2 is definitely not safe for someone who could possibly fall here.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Beaver Street Wall : The Crack (5.10b R)
By: Michael Ybarra When: Jul 8, 2008

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Comments: Eases the rating? What do you mean? With good footwork it felt like 5.8? To me it just felt like 5.9 for a move or two.


Location: Rebekah : Addicted to Crack...I mean ... : Photo
By: Michael Ybarra When: Jul 8, 2008

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Comments: Looks like the Cave Route (5.10+) on Battle of the Bulge. Was the gear five red BDs?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : Sword of Damocles (5.9)
By: Michael Ybarra When: Jul 1, 2008

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Comments: I enjoyed this a lot more than Hernia, which I thought had only a single interesting move. Sword had several places where you had to think a bit, which I don't mind doing now and then. Plus the huge belay ledge on top was wonderfully shady and had a great view.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Slide Rock State Park : The Center of Singularity (5.13b)
By: Michael Ybarra When: Jun 10, 2008

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Comments: Dennis?


Location: CA : High Sierra : Bear Creek Spire : North Arete (5.8)
By: Michael Ybarra When: Jun 3, 2008

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Comments: Ice axes? I'm not sure what those would have been used for. I'm not a great climber, but I managed to do this route in a couple of hours in approach shoes wearing a small day pack. I agree with stemming past the supposed OW crux. I thought it was very fun and pretty cruiser if you're not at your limit.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Big Sky Mud Flaps (5.10d)
By: Michael Ybarra When: Apr 30, 2008

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Comments: I was loving this route until I took a whipper trying to get to the last clip and broke an ankle.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Three Penguins : Right Chimney (5.10+)
By: Michael Ybarra When: Apr 30, 2008

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Comments: Another way to fire the exit moves on P2 is to pinch the rope groves below the chains.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower
By: Michael Ybarra When: Feb 3, 2008

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Comments: Any beta on the best months for climbing?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : Photo
By: Michael Ybarra When: Jan 30, 2008

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Comments: Nice photo but why is he racking a sleeping bag?


Location: CA : High Sierra : Photo
By: Michael Ybarra When: Jan 23, 2008

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Comments: Great photo. I knew who took it the minute I saw it.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Lucky Streaks (5.10c/d)
By: Michael Ybarra When: Jan 23, 2008

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Comments: I agree that Lucky is MUCH better than the Regular Route. My favorite climb in the meadows.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Wiessner's Route (aka SE C... (5.7)
By: Michael Ybarra When: Jan 23, 2008

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Comments: This was a fun solo, with some really cool hand traverses, and great views.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Partner needed for the Sierras this summer/fall Northern California PartnersMichael YbarraMay 30, 2012
re: Road Trip Packing ListGeneral ClimbingMichael YbarraMay 3, 2012
re: Aid practice areas north of LA? More options please.Southern CaliforniaMichael YbarraApr 30, 2012
re: Omega Pacific Link CamsClimbing Gear ReviewsMichael YbarraApr 29, 2012
Shune's Buttress mid April anyone?Utah PartnersMichael YbarraApr 11, 2012
re: resoles near Moab?Southern Utah DesertsMichael YbarraApr 11, 2012
re: Would you move to San Jose from Fort Collins?Northern CaliforniaMichael YbarraFeb 15, 2012
cody partner week of March 12ColoradoMichael YbarraFeb 14, 2012
cheap place to stay in Cody?ColoradoMichael YbarraFeb 10, 2012
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