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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Mar 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Copy/pasted this from a thread on the subject from 2009, shortly after my ascent. Glad there are N. Az climbers who are pushing limits!
After reflecting on this ascent and reading all the thoughtful posts from locals and nonlocals who love to climb in N. AZ, a couple thoughts come to mind.
First and foremost, thanks to David for doing the FFA and giving us an idea of how it all came about.
I agree with Manny's point about small gear in sandstone being suspect. For this reason I doubled up... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Lost Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Mar 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Josh
Hope things are well with you!
I stand behind my 2-decades of climbing experience and many hard trad leads in saying that I lead that pitch safely on gear. I was by no means doing it onsight which I openly acknowledge. I can't comment on the circumstances or meaning of the ascent in question since I was not there.
My sense after my gear ascent was that an onsight was possible and reasonable but would require a Caldwell or Honnold level climber.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Right Wall : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Feb 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: John
Did any of those lines go?
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Right Wall : Parting Gift (5.13)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Mar 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice job Abel!
When I linked the first 3-pitches of Shangri-la I used the bolts on the crux 3rd pitch. Came back a week or so later and climbed the crux 3rd pitch on gear with Chuck belaying me from the hanging belay. There's still room to push up the "bar" on Shangri-la should you so desire.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Right Wall : Parting Gift (5.13)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Mar 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Abel
Glad you're working Parting Gift. Let me know if you want the beta that worked for me.
That's cool that you straightened it out at the start.
Send it!
Mike
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Super Cat of the Desert (5.12)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Sep 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I see what you are saying Chris, Brad and Scott.
This is not the cleanest line on a wall full of clean splitters. There was some adventurousness (can't think of a better adjective) to this route which perhaps elevated my perception of its quality. Often times on the more splitter cracks I can look up and envision how I plan on climbing it and am often right (at least up to mid 5.12). I really had no idea what to expect on this thing from the chossy bottom to the awkward roof to the splitter ... more >>
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Location: WA : Spokane Area : Deep Creek : The Main Wall : (6) Naked Man (5.12a)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Sep 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Trad climbers may find some temporary reprieve from the difficult slopers and crimps. Stickclipping the first is probably a good idea.
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Location: WA : Spokane Area : Deep Creek : The Main Wall : (9) Dump Truck (5.12b)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Sep 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love this route! It epitomizes the best of Deep Creek in being sustained movement on good and occasionally great holds. The boulder problem off the ground is the technical crux but there is definitely a redpoint crux high up. Of the Main Wall 5.12s, this is my favorite.
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Location: WA : Spokane Area : Deep Creek : The Main Wall : Bitten (5.13a)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Sep 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure I'd refer to Bitten as an "endurance" line. There are plenty of rests including a no-hands getting to the jug-rest prior to the final section which is basically a boulder problem. My frustration in working for my redpoint was repeatedly falling off the high boulder problem without being significantly fatigued. Unless you're sick-strong, don't even bother with the last clip on redpoint. A Deep Creek, rite-of-passage.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Puzzle Factory (5.12)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Aug 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree Chuck
Comparing Puzzle Factory to Ruby's is a bit of a stretch.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Left Wall : ... : Photo
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Aug 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I actually will be back. Coming to Sedona in May 2012 for a wedding and can't wait to get back on this route which is one of my all-time favorites.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Right Wall : Parting Gift (5.13)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Aug 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I talked to Chuck who said there has not been much activity on this route lately and it still lacks a second ascent. I was kind of expecting that by now with the plethora of strong N. AZ climbers that someone would have sent it and downgraded it to 12c or something. I was never quite sure of the grade since I'd not climbed many (I mean any) naturally protected routes that hard. Kyle seemed to think it was hard.
I figure I'll share some thoughts on my FA hopefully to get someone psyched on it... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Double Clutching Wall : Super Chronic (5.12-)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Nov 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice JJ! Great description! I need to get down and throw myself at it. I miss the Waterfall!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Left Wall : Terminator (5.12)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Jun 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Small Metolius and BD cams make Terminator a safe lead. I recall the green BD (smaller one, not 0.75) to be the key piece to protect the crux. A good stack of grey BDs (5 or 6) was key for the bulk of the route.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Warm-Up Handcrack (5.10) : Photo
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Mar 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Every move on that route is a rest.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Mar 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks JJ!
Even though I'm enjoying living up here in the NW and checking out new crags, I really miss the challenge and excitement of the routes at the Waterfall. That basalt has a way of bringing out one's best. Thanks again for all the work you've put in there. The ethic you and the others have established there (bolts only where needed) is an example that should be commended and emulated.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Feb 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: JJ
I'm a bit confused as to why you're angry with me. If I were some ethical cowboy, I would have just sent the thing without the unnecessary bolts and chopped them on the spot. Instead I've brought up the issue on sites like this because I have the utmost respect for locals opinions such as yours. I never assumed that I had the final word. I assume the final word is in the hands of locals like yourself. I only have my opinion which I feel entitled to since I've been on the route and done ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Feb 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts are still there. As was discussed in detail on another thread, it's my belief that Shangri-la would be much improved as a mixed route. I personally am not willing to go against the predominant wishes of the local climbing community by altering the route based on my opinion. Eventually though someone will and should, so if you want to climb the sport-bolted crux then do it sooner rather than later.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Strip : Virgin River Gorge : Blasphemy Wall : Fall of Man (5.13b)
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Jan 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've got to try this one especially since it seems like we like a lot of the same types of routes.
What is a jake brake?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Desert Gold (5.13a PG13) : Photo
By: Michael Sokoloff When: Jan 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not typically a "tick-mark Nazi", but I can't get over why someone would need to tick such an obvious line. I'm heading up this weekend to do this route and would be glad to eat my words if necessary. My sense is that won't happen though. Looks like pretty straightforward crackclimbing to me.
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