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Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum with my wife.


Member Since: Apr 3, 2002
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Michael Schneiter


Point Rank: # 51
Total Points: 7,099
Last Year: 1,067
Last 30 Days: 1
219 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Michael Schneiter been climbing?










Michael Schneiter

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 2588 | Routes 229 | Areas 66 | Photos 708 | Page Improvements | Comments 279 | Posts 346 | Stars 937 | Ratings 23
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : Pretty Hate Machine (5.12c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 14, 2013

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Comments: This March, PHM was rebolted (all protection bolts) with glue-in Wave Bolts, supported by the ASCA . Aluminum carabiner pulled and replaced with steel and a steel biner with chain added at first bolt. All of the quicklinks were replaced with new stainless quicklinks.

Here's the story and here's some pics, before and after. Enjo... more >>


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Primadona (aka NoName 6.3) (5.10a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 14, 2013

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Comments: FA: Josh Allison and company.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Original Route (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 14, 2013

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Comments: There is a two bolt anchor at the top of this climb. It's not great for toproping but more suited for topping out the climb, belaying a climber up, and then rappelling. Probably how Kor would have done it.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Lower Ice Caves : Plastic Prince (5.11c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 13, 2013

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Comments: Wow, hope you're okay. I've had Plastic Prince on my rebolting to-do list.

Did the bolt itself actually break? Or did the hanger come off? How did it happen?


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Prow : Crowd Control (5.8)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 4, 2013

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Comments: FA: BJ Sbarra and Mike Schneiter.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Narrows : The Front Porch : Choss Warfare (5.9+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: In reference to this comment that I saw: "Is that hand jam pod manufactured? never seen a feature like that before."

No hold was manufactured, and I can't remember the hold you're talking about, because it's been a while since I've been on this route. I'm just guessing it was a result of the unique rock at the Narrows. It tends to plate, and some is solid and other stuff just falls out, particularly while cleaning. Chunks will fall out, sometimes leaving decent holds.

So, just wanted to be cl... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Winter's End (5.11b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 26, 2013

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Comments: Just getting this added quickly as a placeholder and to potentially avoid any confusion because of the new routes. Will update shortly as well as improve the beta on Doctor's Orders and Rehab, two more new routes in the Sno Cone.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Route (5.0)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: Peter, I think you may be describing Supre Guide. There is a new route left of Supre Guide called First Steps, 5.5. It's at the top of the platforms and has glue-ins. That may be causing some of the confusion.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 17, 2013

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Comments: There's no bus service from Glenwood to Rifle Mountain Park. There is bus service from Glenwood to the city of Rifle, but that leaves you many miles (10+) from the Mountain Park. People without a car usually hitchhike between town and the Mountain Park, and there is a steady flow of climbers in and out of the park every day, including climbers at the campground. So you can make it work, albeit not super easily.

Concerning new routes, there has been a lot of new route development since the '08 ... more >>


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Fountain Buttress : North Face : Sucking Wind (5.10c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 23, 2013

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Comments: Nice, Ken, well done. What time of year was that? Got a date?


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Fortress of Solitude
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 10, 2013

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Comments: Yes, it is very good in the winter. The trail has typically been packed out within a couple days after a good snowfall. Doesn't take a very high temperature (30s or less) and any day without clouds or partly cloudy can be good and even borderline hot. With heavy cloud cover or high, cold winds, it may be kind of cold. Depends on what your tolerance is for climbing and the kinds of conditions you want.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Kinesava : Tatoween (5.11a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 5, 2013

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Comments: My understanding is that a permit is required for any climbing bivy within Zion National Park, even if the approach starts outside the park.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Redstone : Narrows, Redstone, McClure ... : Hays Creek Falls (WI2)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jan 25, 2013

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Comments: You can usually scramble up the left side of the formation via pretty darn easy terrain (WI1-ish or less?) and gain access to the anchors at top. Requires tools and crampons.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : East Side : ... : Lone Pine Tree Direct (5.10)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: Yeah Jeremy, there are often wasps in that area which are quiet and relatively unseen when it is cold or shady, but when it's sunny and warm out they come out. Sometimes it can be a little adventure tiptoeing around the wasps when they are hanging out in the cracks on a chill day.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Beer Run (5.13a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: The 6th bolt was replaced.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Lower Ice Caves : Road To Nowhere (5.11a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Oct 21, 2012

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Comments: The extension is Bloodhound, 12c, by Dave Pegg.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : East Side : ... : Left Side of Gray Face (5.10b R)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 26, 2012

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Comments: I hope no one every resorts to putting bolts on this pitch. It's a beautiful and challenging lead. Every climb doesn't have to be dumbed down to the masses. There are classic routes all over the world that would be more "viable" as leads to people if there were more bolts to make them feel comfortable. Personally, I would love to climb the Bachar-Yerian, but I'm not comfortable with the commitment on that route. Yet it's a route that I aspire to perhaps one day tackle when I'm ready. There are c... more >>


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : The Squeeze (5.10b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 26, 2012

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Comments: Sounds like you're talking about my wife's cousin. He is new to Glenwood and hence, new to the Puoux. It sounded like there was some wasps in the huecos that are at the start of this climb and the 9 to the right.

And, I would caution with calling someone you don't know a noob just because he coudn't identify what route he was on. He has a lot of experience and some solid skills.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Upper Ice Caves (Feline are... : Ledged Assault (5.11c/d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 11, 2012

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Comments: There are 9 bolts on this climb, including the perma chain draw at the crux and one draw that is currently in place. The anchor is Metolius rap hangers, so bring draws for the anchor.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : A Stirring of Air (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: I think the start is the crux on this thing for sure, and there are at least three ways to start this thing. Two different ways at the top of the block and the third way is to start on Brenna, clip the first bolt, and traverse right. I think this is the easiest, and most enjoyable, way to do this climb and makes it more like a real 10a instead of hard 10a or whatever people want to call it.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : A Stirring of Air (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: All of the lead bolts and the anchor bolts were replaced on this last year with hardware from the ASCA. Several bolts were moved to make this a much better lead. Enjoy!

Also, the name should be "A Stirring of Air" with two r's, not one.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Lever Action (not Downdraft... (5.12a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: All of the lead bolts and the anchor bolts to the first anchor were replaced on this last year with hardware from the ASCA. Several bolts were moved to make this a much better lead. Enjoy!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Mariscos Lambada (aka Gook-... (5.8)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: All lead bolts and anchor bolts were replaced recently with hardware from the ASCA. Several bolts were moved to make this a much better lead. Enjoy!


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Stay True (aka NoName 3) (5.11d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 11, 2012

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Comments: Josh Allison said he bolted this, perhaps Jim was in on it with him.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Roadside Distraction (aka N... (5.10a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 11, 2012

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Comments: I agree. At other areas maybe it wouldn't be appropriate, but at the Puoux, I think it would fit the ethics.


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