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Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum with my wife.


Member Since: Nov 7, 2002
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Michael Schneiter


Point Rank: # 48
Total Points: 6,986
Last Year: 1,221
Last 30 Days: 430
189 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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Where has Michael Schneiter been climbing?










Michael Schneiter

 
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All (2519) | Routes (228) | Areas (61) | Photos (706) | Comments (261) | Posts (338) | Stars (902) | Ratings (23)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Ledged Assault (5.11c/d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 11, 2012

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Comments: There are 9 bolts on this climb, including the perma chain draw at the crux and one draw that is currently in place. The anchor is Metolius rap hangers, so bring draws for the anchor.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : A Stirring of Air (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: I think the start is the crux on this thing for sure, and there are at least three ways to start this thing. Two different ways at the top of the block and the third way is to start on Brenna, clip the first bolt, and traverse right. I think this is the easiest, and most enjoyable, way to do this climb and makes it more like a real 10a instead of hard 10a or whatever people want to call it.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : A Stirring of Air (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: All of the lead bolts and the anchor bolts were replaced on this last year with hardware from the ASCA. Several bolts were moved to make this a much better lead. Enjoy!

Also, the name should be "A Stirring of Air" with two r's, not one.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Lever Action (not Downdraft... (5.12a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: All of the lead bolts and the anchor bolts to the first anchor were replaced on this last year with hardware from the ASCA. Several bolts were moved to make this a much better lead. Enjoy!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Mariscos Lambada (aka Gook-... (5.8)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: All lead bolts and anchor bolts were replaced recently with hardware from the ASCA. Several bolts were moved to make this a much better lead. Enjoy!


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : NoName 3 aka Stay True (5.11d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 11, 2012

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Comments: Josh Allison said he bolted this, perhaps Jim was in on it with him.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : NoName 5.1 (Unnamed 5.10a T... (5.10a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 11, 2012

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Comments: I agree. At other areas maybe it wouldn't be appropriate, but at the Puoux, I think it would fit the ethics.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Black Dynamite (5.10c/d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 21, 2012

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Comments: Anybody know what the route to the right of Black Dynamite is? It's got a slab start, under a roof, with 2 bolts and then you pull a little bulge above and right of the crux on Black Dynamite. There's a 2 bolt anchor at about 80 feet. We did the Black Dynamite crux and then did the rest of this route on the right to be able to finish at the 2 bolt anchor, because we didn't think there was a fixed anchor on the Standard Route to easily use. Seemed like a decent way to climb Black Dynamite because... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Just Another 5.14 (aka "Cou... (5.11b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 17, 2012

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Comments: I actually liked this route, but the large, ominous pillar at the top distracts from the quality. I was okay with the wandering nature of the climb, but that pillar needs to go or the anchor should be lower. You could also finish at the Dancing Pickle anchor and not have to deal with that death pillar. The rock on this route is good otherwise and it had some fun climbing on it.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 9, 2012

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Comments: Found a cam on an obscure climb on the Poison Ivy Wall yesterday. PM me if it's yours and I'll get it back to you.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : Jumbled Buttress : Courage (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: Continue for two more pitches above this pitch for a good little adventure, topping out the granite.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball : Regular Route (5.9 A2-)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 3, 2012

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Comments: No rivet hangers/wires required. The "bolt" ladder is made up of drilled angles, hence why it might have looked like bolts without hangers from the ground.

Doesn't need a huge rack either or anything unusual/fancy/etc. Just good fun! Enjoy


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Atlantis (5.11 PG13) : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 2, 2012

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Comments: Not sure why I called this pitch 8, I must have had my numbers mixed up. I'll change it. I've done Atlantis a couple of times and I think we stayed lower the first time I did it (this is a picture from the second time). However, I don't think we stayed low enough to find the pin. At least I don't remember a pin. I'll definitely keep that in mind if I do the route again. As I recall, it felt like we were just "following our noses" and as you know, can get "off route," which off route seems to be ... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : Pump-O-Rama (5.13a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 5, 2012

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Comments: All bolts and anchors were rebolted with Fixe glue-ins courtesy of the ASCA. Quicklinks were also changed out. The work was prompted after the 5th bolt hanger fell off last fall due to the nut falling off from repeated whippers. As is often the case, it's unlikely any of the bolts were about to fail, but it should feel good to have fresh hardware to clip on this wall where sections seep profusely at times. One hanger was a little concerning, the second to last bolt, protecting the boulder proble... more >>


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : East Side : ... : Lone Pine Tree Right (5.11 X)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 20, 2012

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Comments: Great climb and it's not that bad of a lead. Probably PG-13, maybe R (I'll conservatively call it R). This thing actually sews up pretty well with cams, particularly a few key offsets. The crux is a little tricky to protect and that's where this could get R-ish. I think you could probably protect it even better with small nuts if you're savvy with those things. I was lazy and relied on cams but wasn't too worried although it's heady for sure.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Main Wall : Experience (5.12d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: @ heppnerd, you're talking about a different climb, maybe The Long Haul, but definitely not this route.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Zion 2012 Spring Cliff Clos...
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 29, 2012

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Comments: Iron Messiah is not closed.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : The Homestead : Flakin' On Your Friend (5.9-)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Dec 20, 2011

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Comments: FA: Bryan Gall and company.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : The Homestead
By: Michael Schneiter When: Dec 20, 2011

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Comments: You can also access the Homestead, aka Cascade Creek, from the Puoux by hiking past the Fault Wall and making a loose scramble up and over the ridge and down to the water towers. It's about 20 minutes from the normal Puoux parking lot, if you're moving fast.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : NoName 6.5 (5.11a/b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Dec 18, 2011

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Comments: This was surprisingly good and has an awkward trad feeling style of climbing to it. Very clean until the top where a bit of dirt exists.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : The Airy Block : Roadside Fin
By: Michael Schneiter When: Nov 22, 2011

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Comments: I don't know the beta on that line, but check the talus at the base. A bunch of that rock looked pretty bad, and I think one of the bolts is in a rock at the base now. I think Mike Yellico and crew put it up in the '90s.

Speaking of history, I know Michael Kennedy and crew climbed at this location back in the '70s and '80s as well. If you start poking around, you'll find ancient pins and 1/4" bolts from some of those early days.

From SplitterChoss.com by Michael Kennedy:

www.sp... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiak Dome : Zee Tree (5.7)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Nov 12, 2011

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Comments: That's definitely a 1/4" Star Dryvin (www.safeclimbing.org/education/dangerbolts.htm) with a Leeper hanger but I'm surprised they were on Zee Tree as I don't remember any of the anchors being in such bad shape.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Spuds in Space (5.8) : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Nov 2, 2011

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Comments: Those are from Spuds in Space, but the Sno Cone area had a bunch of similar stuff that got replaced this summer.


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks
By: Michael Schneiter When: Oct 6, 2011

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Comments: No more camping, is my understanding. Walnut Acres is a private campground in town or Central Park, a county park is pretty close.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Firearms (5.11d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Sep 22, 2011

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Comments: This is Firearms described. The confusion may be in part because Firearms and Primer used to have a shared first bolt, but now they have separate first bolts.


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