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 ADVANCED
Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum with my wife.


Member Since: Apr 3, 2002
Last Visit: 23 hours ago
Contact Michael Schneiter


Point Rank: # 48
Total Points: 7,014
Last Year: 1,125
Last 30 Days: 14
202 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Michael Schneiter been climbing?










Michael Schneiter

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 2559 | Routes 229 | Areas 61 | Photos 708 | Page Improvments | Comments 269 | Posts 344 | Stars 925 | Ratings 23
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Fortress of Solitude
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 10, 2013

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Comments: Yes, it is very good in the winter. The trail has typically been packed out within a couple days after a good snowfall. Doesn't take a very high temperature (30s or less) and any day without clouds or partly cloudy can be good and even borderline hot. With heavy cloud cover or high, cold winds, it may be kind of cold. Depends on what your tolerance is for climbing and the kinds of conditions you want.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Kinesava : Tatoween (5.11a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 5, 2013

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Comments: My understanding is that a permit is required for any climbing bivy within Zion National Park, even if the approach starts outside the park.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Redstone : Narrows, Redstone, McClure ... : Hays Creek Falls (WI2)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jan 25, 2013

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Comments: You can usually scramble up the left side of the formation via pretty darn easy terrain (WI1-ish or less?) and gain access to the anchors at top. Requires tools and crampons.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : East Side : ... : Lone Pine Tree Direct (5.10)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: Yeah Jeremy, there are often wasps in that area which are quiet and relatively unseen when it is cold or shady, but when it's sunny and warm out they come out. Sometimes it can be a little adventure tiptoeing around the wasps when they are hanging out in the cracks on a chill day.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Beer Run (5.13a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: The 6th bolt was replaced.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Road To Nowhere (5.11a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Oct 21, 2012

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Comments: The extension is Bloodhound, 12c, by Dave Pegg.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : East Side : ... : Left Side of Gray Face (5.10b R)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 26, 2012

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Comments: I hope no one every resorts to putting bolts on this pitch. It's a beautiful and challenging lead. Every climb doesn't have to be dumbed down to the masses. There are classic routes all over the world that would be more "viable" as leads to people if there were more bolts to make them feel comfortable. Personally, I would love to climb the Bachar-Yerian, but I'm not comfortable with the commitment on that route. Yet it's a route that I aspire to perhaps one day tackle when I'm ready. There are c... more >>


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : The Squeeze (5.10b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 26, 2012

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Comments: Sounds like you're talking about my wife's cousin. He is new to Glenwood and hence, new to the Puoux. It sounded like there was some wasps in the huecos that are at the start of this climb and the 9 to the right.

And, I would caution with calling someone you don't know a noob just because he coudn't identify what route he was on. He has a lot of experience and some solid skills.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Ledged Assault (5.11c/d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 11, 2012

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Comments: There are 9 bolts on this climb, including the perma chain draw at the crux and one draw that is currently in place. The anchor is Metolius rap hangers, so bring draws for the anchor.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : A Stirring of Air (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: I think the start is the crux on this thing for sure, and there are at least three ways to start this thing. Two different ways at the top of the block and the third way is to start on Brenna, clip the first bolt, and traverse right. I think this is the easiest, and most enjoyable, way to do this climb and makes it more like a real 10a instead of hard 10a or whatever people want to call it.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : A Stirring of Air (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: All of the lead bolts and the anchor bolts were replaced on this last year with hardware from the ASCA. Several bolts were moved to make this a much better lead. Enjoy!

Also, the name should be "A Stirring of Air" with two r's, not one.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Lever Action (not Downdraft... (5.12a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: All of the lead bolts and the anchor bolts to the first anchor were replaced on this last year with hardware from the ASCA. Several bolts were moved to make this a much better lead. Enjoy!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Mariscos Lambada (aka Gook-... (5.8)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: All lead bolts and anchor bolts were replaced recently with hardware from the ASCA. Several bolts were moved to make this a much better lead. Enjoy!


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Stay True (aka NoName 3) (5.11d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 11, 2012

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Comments: Josh Allison said he bolted this, perhaps Jim was in on it with him.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Roadside Distraction (aka N... (5.10a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 11, 2012

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Comments: I agree. At other areas maybe it wouldn't be appropriate, but at the Puoux, I think it would fit the ethics.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Black Dynamite (5.10c/d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 21, 2012

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Comments: Anybody know what the route to the right of Black Dynamite is? It's got a slab start, under a roof, with 2 bolts and then you pull a little bulge above and right of the crux on Black Dynamite. There's a 2 bolt anchor at about 80 feet. We did the Black Dynamite crux and then did the rest of this route on the right to be able to finish at the 2 bolt anchor, because we didn't think there was a fixed anchor on the Standard Route to easily use. Seemed like a decent way to climb Black Dynamite because... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Just Another 5.14 (aka "Cou... (5.11b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 17, 2012

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Comments: I actually liked this route, but the large, ominous pillar at the top distracts from the quality. I was okay with the wandering nature of the climb, but that pillar needs to go or the anchor should be lower. You could also finish at the Dancing Pickle anchor and not have to deal with that death pillar. The rock on this route is good otherwise and it had some fun climbing on it.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 9, 2012

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Comments: Found a cam on an obscure climb on the Poison Ivy Wall yesterday. PM me if it's yours and I'll get it back to you.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : Jumbled Buttress : Courage (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: Continue for two more pitches above this pitch for a good little adventure, topping out the granite.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball : Regular Route (5.9 A2-)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 3, 2012

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Comments: No rivet hangers/wires required. The "bolt" ladder is made up of drilled angles, hence why it might have looked like bolts without hangers from the ground.

Doesn't need a huge rack either or anything unusual/fancy/etc. Just good fun! Enjoy


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Atlantis (5.11 PG13) : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 2, 2012

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Comments: Not sure why I called this pitch 8, I must have had my numbers mixed up. I'll change it. I've done Atlantis a couple of times and I think we stayed lower the first time I did it (this is a picture from the second time). However, I don't think we stayed low enough to find the pin. At least I don't remember a pin. I'll definitely keep that in mind if I do the route again. As I recall, it felt like we were just "following our noses" and as you know, can get "off route," which off route seems to be ... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : Pump-O-Rama (5.13a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 5, 2012

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Comments: All bolts and anchors were rebolted with Fixe glue-ins courtesy of the ASCA. Quicklinks were also changed out. The work was prompted after the 5th bolt hanger fell off last fall due to the nut falling off from repeated whippers. As is often the case, it's unlikely any of the bolts were about to fail, but it should feel good to have fresh hardware to clip on this wall where sections seep profusely at times. One hanger was a little concerning, the second to last bolt, protecting the boulder proble... more >>


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : East Side : ... : Lone Pine Tree Right (5.11 X)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 20, 2012

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Comments: Great climb and it's not that bad of a lead. Probably PG-13, maybe R (I'll conservatively call it R). This thing actually sews up pretty well with cams, particularly a few key offsets. The crux is a little tricky to protect and that's where this could get R-ish. I think you could probably protect it even better with small nuts if you're savvy with those things. I was lazy and relied on cams but wasn't too worried although it's heady for sure.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Main Wall : Experience (5.12d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: @ heppnerd, you're talking about a different climb, maybe The Long Haul, but definitely not this route.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Zion 2012 Spring Cliff Clos...
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 29, 2012

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Comments: Iron Messiah is not closed.


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