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Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum ...


Member Since: Apr 3, 2002
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Michael Schneiter

Michael Schneiter
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Point Rank: # 47
Total Points: 7,375
Last Year: 385
Last 30 Days: 23
236 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Michael Schneiter

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 2678 | Routes 231 | Areas 69 | Photos 748 | Page Improvements | Comments 290 | Posts 358 | Stars 959 | Ratings 23
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sapper Cave : Westerplatte (5.12a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: Good route with a bit of new route crispiness to it still. The crux felt hard for the grade and the sustained 5.11 climbing felt all of 5.11. I have heard some people describe this as maybe being harder than 12a. Good stuff, whatever it is, get on it!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sapper Cave : Right El Sapper (5.12b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: Rebolted with ClimbTech WaveBolt glue-ins, supplied by the ASCA. There was one bolt that had been replaced relatively recently that I left. Also, I placed a Fixe Triplex where you reach left into the underclings (bolt #5 or 6?). The old bolt was way out left, but I wasn't sure exactly where the best placement would be. With the Triplex, it's bomber for now, and we can always pull it and fill the hole with a glue-in or move the bolt if it's not in the best spo... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Wall of Life : Agape (5.10c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: I changed the grade on this and Cut the Cord to reflect the feedback I heard and also I think my opinion started to change. But, chime in because community consensus seems to work best for grading routes. Enjoy.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Meat Wall : 80 Feet of Meat (5.11a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: Great work, Lynn and Derek. Thanks!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Wall of Life : Agape (5.10c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 23, 2013

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Comments: Michael, you're not the only one to tell me that. Originally I thought this was easier than Cut the Cord. I'm probably wrong. Things clean up and better beta is found. I do think this could be a bit easier for tall people. So, is Cut the Cord easier than 10c or is this harder than 10b? Opinion? I'm happy to change the grades.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Lower Ice Caves : Plastic Prince (5.11c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 19, 2013

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Comments: Awesome, Jeff. Thanks a ton!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Lever Action (not Downdraft... (5.12a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 2, 2013

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Comments: The four bolts for the roof section of Lever Action and the anchor were replaced with hardware from the ASCA . Two fat WaveBolt glue-ins were used in the roof.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Lower Ice Caves : Plastic Prince (5.11c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: Replaced the 1st, 2nd, and 4th bolts yesterday with hardware courtesy of the ASCA. The old 4th bolt snapped with barely any force on the wrench, and the 1st snapped with three small taps of the hammer. Kind of sketch.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : East Side : ... : Unnamed aka The Ironing Boa... (5.8)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 14, 2013

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Comments: New glue-in anchor with stainless links and rings added last year courtesy of hardware from the ASCA.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Defenseless Betty (5.11d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 14, 2013

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Comments: Rebolted this last summer with Fixe glue-ins from the ASCA and replaced all of the old nylon tat with fresh stainless links, ClimbTech permadraws and steel biners.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Hang 'Em High (5.12b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 14, 2013

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Comments: First 3 bolts replaced with Fixe glue-ins from the ASCA last spring (2012).


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : Pretty Hate Machine (5.12c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 14, 2013

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Comments: This March, PHM was rebolted (all protection bolts) with glue-in Wave Bolts, supported by the ASCA . Aluminum carabiner pulled and replaced with steel and a steel biner with chain added at first bolt. All of the quicklinks were replaced with new stainless quicklinks.

Here's the story and here's some pics, before and after. Enjo... more >>


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Primadona (aka NoName 6.3) (5.10a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 14, 2013

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Comments: FA: Josh Allison and company.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Original Route (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 14, 2013

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Comments: There is a two bolt anchor at the top of this climb. It's not great for toproping but more suited for topping out the climb, belaying a climber up, and then rappelling. Probably how Kor would have done it.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Lower Ice Caves : Plastic Prince (5.11c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 13, 2013

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Comments: Wow, hope you're okay. I've had Plastic Prince on my rebolting to-do list.

Did the bolt itself actually break? Or did the hanger come off? How did it happen?


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Prow : Crowd Control (5.8)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 4, 2013

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Comments: FA: BJ Sbarra and Mike Schneiter.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Narrows : The Front Porch : Choss Warfare (5.9+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: In reference to this comment that I saw: "Is that hand jam pod manufactured? never seen a feature like that before."

No hold was manufactured, and I can't remember the hold you're talking about, because it's been a while since I've been on this route. I'm just guessing it was a result of the unique rock at the Narrows. It tends to plate, and some is solid and other stuff just falls out, particularly while cleaning. Chunks will fall out, sometimes leaving decent holds.

So, just wanted to be cl... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Winter's End (5.11b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 26, 2013

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Comments: Just getting this added quickly as a placeholder and to potentially avoid any confusion because of the new routes. Will update shortly as well as improve the beta on Doctor's Orders and Rehab, two more new routes in the Sno Cone.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Route (5.0)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: Peter, I think you may be describing Supre Guide. There is a new route left of Supre Guide called First Steps, 5.5. It's at the top of the platforms and has glue-ins. That may be causing some of the confusion.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 17, 2013

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Comments: There's no bus service from Glenwood to Rifle Mountain Park. There is bus service from Glenwood to the city of Rifle, but that leaves you many miles (10+) from the Mountain Park. People without a car usually hitchhike between town and the Mountain Park, and there is a steady flow of climbers in and out of the park every day, including climbers at the campground. So you can make it work, albeit not super easily.

Concerning new routes, there has been a lot of new route development since the '08 ... more >>


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Fountain Buttress : North Face : Sucking Wind (5.10c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 23, 2013

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Comments: Nice, Ken, well done. What time of year was that? Got a date?


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Creek : Fortress of Solitude
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 10, 2013

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Comments: Yes, it is very good in the winter. The trail has typically been packed out within a couple days after a good snowfall. Doesn't take a very high temperature (30s or less) and any day without clouds or partly cloudy can be good and even borderline hot. With heavy cloud cover or high, cold winds, it may be kind of cold. Depends on what your tolerance is for climbing and the kinds of conditions you want.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Kinesava : Tatoween (5.11a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 5, 2013

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Comments: My understanding is that a permit is required for any climbing bivy within Zion National Park, even if the approach starts outside the park.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Redstone : Narrows, Redstone, McClure ... : Hays Creek Falls (WI2)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jan 25, 2013

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Comments: You can usually scramble up the left side of the formation via pretty darn easy terrain (WI1-ish or less?) and gain access to the anchors at top. Requires tools and crampons.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : East Side : ... : Lone Pine Tree Direct (5.10)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: Yeah Jeremy, there are often wasps in that area which are quiet and relatively unseen when it is cold or shady, but when it's sunny and warm out they come out. Sometimes it can be a little adventure tiptoeing around the wasps when they are hanging out in the cracks on a chill day.


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