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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Skull Cave : Forgotten Years (5.11d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts were replaced on this recently so they are freshy, shiny stainless stuff with a perma-draw on a hard to reach clip.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : G3 : Vai (5.11b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really liked this climb. I didn't think the boulder problem start was that bad although I am tall (6'2"). You can also stick clip the second bolt to do it on TR or to jug past it. Once past the start the middle of the route is fun, techy climbing and the last third of the climb is just big grin inducing jug hauling on the crack feature and pockets.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Canine Wall : Stepping Stone (5.8)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is now an anchor at what used to be the second to last bolt, below the low angle, dirt-filled ledgey terrain. Bolts are still at the top of the original climb if anyone is still interested in it.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Surgery Buttress : Rehab (5.12a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route now has a 2 bolt anchor instead of the original thread anchor.
The original finish, with some great, stout slab moves is not to be missed and the new anchor helps convince you to finish in this way. Finishing out right or cheating out left causes you to miss some great climbing.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Surgery Buttress : Smells Like Victory (5.11c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route now has a 2 bolt anchor instead of the original thread anchor.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Surgery Buttress : Pre Op (5.10d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route now has its own anchor, after many requests, below the usually dirty ledges at the top. The new anchor is at the last bolt of the climb because the rock above was quite hollow and I didn't feel comfortable placing it anywhere above that last bolt. If you still want to get those last few moves of climbing you can top out the climb the original way and the glue-in pins are still there. Bring some links/chain.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Surgery Buttress : Surgery Buttress (5.10b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route now has its own anchor, below the usually dirty ledges at the top.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Surgery Buttress : Slippin' Sloan (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route now has a 2 bolt anchor courtesy of some ASCA hardware instead of the 1 bolt and 1 fixed nut that used to the anchor. Enjoy.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : The Neighborhood : Zipper Buttress : California Dreamin' (5.9+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If the pins are gone, then maybe we should go replace them with some bolts, that won't go missing. We can talk to Jeff beforehand. Sorry you had such a miserable experience, Slim.
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Mount Moran : CMC Route (5.5)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You need two ropes for the rap off the Drizzlepuss. It's steep and slightly overhanging most of the way. There may be a way to work it out with one rope and by rapping in a different direction or finding a midway anchor (I can't remember if there was one). If you don't want to carry two 10.2s, you can carry a tag line to pull your rope, usually made with cord as small as 6 mm and then you would add a pretty minimal amount of weight and low cost. Plus, it will help with rapping down the face afte... more >>
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Dead Horse Crag
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think it's 5.8 and 5.10, but I could be wrong. I've talked to Michael about Death Wish, and it sounds like it was another good adventure, but it may have some redeeming qualities.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Dead Horse Crag
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: That line is called Death Wish. I understand that it is "adventurish" to say the least. Here's some beta from the American Alpine Journal:
1977 American Alpine Journal
p. 196
“Mike Kennedy, Molly Higgins, and I wondered if a classic rock climb could be done on the not so sound limestone walls of Glenwood Canyon. We made the climb, Death Wish, on April 10. The route is located up the Hanging Lake Trail on the left, identified by a large vertical and overhanging corner. The first two pitches are... more >>
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Location: IA : Pictured Rocks
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Troy, good on you guys for replacing the stuff. I really thank you. I was long tempted to start replacing stuff myself but because I don't live there anymore and rarely get back to climb I didn't feel it was my place. I am totally happy to help any time I am back home and have access to free stainless hardware from other rebolting projects that I help with.
Regarding the links, I asked because he mentioned "snap links", which are these... more >>
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Canine Wall : Stepping Stone (5.8)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb may have cleaned up some since BJ's original post. Climbed it today, and only the top was really dirty. The rest of it wasn't pristine but seemed okay. It may indeed be a slightly better climb if the anchor was at the 2nd to last bolt. Maybe it would increase the traffic, and hence cleanliness, of it?
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sanctuary : Genesis (5.12a) : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Photo is fixed, and it is no longer PMS. I must have hit the wrong file when initially uploading it. This is a great little zone and hoping some people get out there.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sanctuary : Genesis (5.12a) : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shoot, how did I get that mixed up? I'll move it. Must have gotten my pictures mixed up when uploading them.
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Location: IA : Pictured Rocks
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I grew up in Monticello so I have great love for the place. Unfortunately, I don't get to climb there much but I agree, the place needs some serious care. I have a lot of experience replacing bad bolts and doing anchor work where I live now and I would love to help out with the work at Pictured Rocks but I keep hearing there is resistance from some climbers and obstacles from the park's governing body to doing some of that work. Some of the bolts and anchors just make me shudder with fear. I wou... more >>
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Location: IA : Pictured Rocks
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: JStark, what do you mean by "snap links"? Are you talking about hardware store stuff?
If you're serious about making lowering stations on the anchors, I really encourage you to use good hardware. Stuff like the CAMP Gym Safe carabiners are great because they have a pin that is placed and removed with a small allen wrench, thus making it really hard for people to take.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Meat Wall : Jail Bait (5.11c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this route was great. The layback at the top was a hoot but I'm guessing people are skipping it and lowering off from the two bolts with chain draws, missing out on the exciting finish. At least, that's what I'm guessing.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : ... : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, the Ballerina is just barely in view in the photo on the left. I should draw the line of the route in. Roadside Attraction is in the center of the photo.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sanctuary : The Enlightened Path (5.11c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This and Exodus are two great climbs that will only get better with some traffic to help clean them up. Thanks for adding this great new zone to Rifle!
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : International Buttress : The International (5.10+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Jason. When I wrote the description, I basically borrowed from the original description that was in the American Alpine Journal. Hence, there are two buttresses, broken by a sizable ledge, in the pre-Cambrian granite layer. Above, the rock often gets described as limestone, but you're correct that it's actually that Sawatch quartzite layer. On the International, you never get into the true Leadville limestone, that beautiful gray limestone at the top of the canyon. Instead, it seems to stay ... more >>
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The park is closed, both the road and the park. According to the guy we talked to, it will be closed for 1 week, reopening next Saturday. Of course, that assumes the flooding danger subsides. If you walk into the park to climb, they will ask you to leave, and someone I know was told that if you came in a second time they would arrest you for trespassing. So, just a heads up.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Grand View Spire : Relics (5.10 C2)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: So, Jesse, just curious - is the anchor no longer on the block on top? Is it in the caprock instead?
Thanks for doing the work!
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Location: Michael Schneiter : Photos : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was taken on the summit of the Grand Teton, 7 hours car to car. We were psyched!
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