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Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum ...


Member Since: Apr 3, 2002
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Michael Schneiter


Point Rank: # 47
Total Points: 7,333
Last Year: 782
Last 30 Days: 4
230 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Michael Schneiter been climbing?










Michael Schneiter

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 2656 | Routes 230 | Areas 69 | Photos 743 | Page Improvements | Comments 283 | Posts 356 | Stars 952 | Ratings 23
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Dragon's Tail : Southeast Face (5.6 C1)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: It may be worth to note that in addition to the free or crack aid moves you have to make 3/4 of the way up the first pitch that also have to do the same at the top, with some grovely moves to reach the anchor.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : The Hindu : Maverick (5.9 C2)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: On Pitch 2 there is currently a rope anchored to two pins and a new-ish looking bolt that is just below an old star drive. That rope was then also anchored into the pitch 1 belay so you could cheat through this whole section. Not wanting to cheat through I still did the aid moves and found them to be as C1 as C1 can get. I used a bit of tension off the anchor and reached up and placed a bomber offset cam (orange-yellow Metolius I think) and then stepped up and placed another bomber offset cam be... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Roadside Cragging : Terror Dreams (5.8+ A1+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: I replaced the pin that was missing before the first bolt. I placed an angle in the hole that is bomber. For now.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: That's awesome. My father-in-law is a geologist and he used to kid the family about the "granite worms" they would see along the trails, aka the holes left from blasting done to build trails. Maybe this picture is proof of the granite worms! Ha ha!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock
By: Michael Schneiter When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Yes, there are a few USFS campgrounds close by. Twin Peaks and Parry Peak are east of Monitor and within a few miles.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Bauhaus Wall : Motley Cruise (5.11a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: All protection bolts and anchor bolts replaced with Fixe glue-ins, provided by the ASCA.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : In Your Face (5.12d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: The remaining old bolts (first perma-drawed bolt and last bolt) on Pinch Fest (other than the useless, low first bolt) were replaced with ClimbTech glue-in WaveBolts provided by the ASCA.

The other bolts were replaced a few years ago with stainless 5 pieces.

Enjoy!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Pinch Fest (5.12b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: The remaining old bolts on Pinch Fest (other than the useless, low first bolt) were replaced with ClimbTech glue-in WaveBolts provided by the ASCA. A few of the quicklinks were updated and were provided by C.A.M.P..

The crux bolt was replaced a few years ago with a stainless 5 piece. The old holes were reused except for the last bolt which was spinning and nothing I had could get it to come out.

Enjoy!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : The Funny Face : Pryor (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 6, 2014

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Comments: Big, fat, fresh Fixe Draco steel carabiners were placed on this for lowering, provided by the ASCA.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : The Funny Face : Martin & Lewis (5.9-)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 6, 2014

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Comments: I don't know who added the new first bolt on this, but it wasn't me. It was added last year.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : The Funny Face : Sellers (5.9+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 6, 2014

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Comments: I don't know who added the new first bolt on this, but it wasn't me. It was added last year.

Big, fat, fresh Fixe Draco steel carabiners were placed on this for lowering, provided by the ASCA.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Rehabilitator (5.11c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: The first bolt was replaced with a glue-in provided by the ASCA. I believe the rest of the bolts, or the majority of them, were replaced a few years ago with stainless hardware. Enjoy.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Irie Meditation (5.11d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: Almost all of the old bolts on this have now been replaced with glue-in hardware from the ASCA. One original bolt toward the top remains. Enjoy.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Bottom Feeder (5.11b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: Almost all of the old bolts on this have now been replaced with glue-in hardware from the ASCA. Just the original 2nd bolt remains. Enjoy.


Location: CO : New Feature: Improve This P...
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: Fitz is talking about Feline in Rifle. Leo, I can PM you later today with an idea I had about cleaning up that area and making the directions to Feline, and other climbs in that vicinity, a lot better. Cheers.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Brenna (5.11a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: There isn't a new line to the right of Brenna but instead a variation called Air Patrol. You start on Brenna and go right after the first bolt and joining Stirring of Air, thus avoiding Stirring's wicked hard and isolated crux. Makes for a nice 10a.

I'll check out the anchor on Brenna next time I'm out there.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Exit Wall : Exit Strategy (5.10d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Unless I'm blind, I'm pretty sure the first two routes on the left, No Exit and Exit Strategy, share an anchor. I couldn't find a separate anchor no matter how hard I looked. Hence, the 2008 guidebook and the description here are inaccurate. Please correct me if I'm wrong.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Exit Wall : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Unless I'm blind, I'm pretty sure the first two routes on the left, No Exit and Exit Strategy, share an anchor. I couldn't find a separate anchor no matter how hard I looked. Hence, the 2008 guidebook and this topo are inaccurate. Please correct me if I'm wrong.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: The NoName numbering system was started when people first started posting stuff here, but their usefulness has worn off. I agree with getting rid of those NoName numbers, or keeping them in parentheses because there are some beta photos with the numbering system I believe. Part of the confusion may be that the Lower Wall has an upper tier, so when doing a L to R ordering, it makes it a little tricky because there are climbs on top of other climbs. The organization I've got on the page for the Lo... more >>


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : Poison Ivy Wall : Twin Cracks aka Railroad Cr... (5.8)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: In the 2008 Western Slope guidebook, this is called Railroad Cracks.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : Poison Ivy Wall
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: Proper left to right for routes on the Poison Ivy Wall:

The Itch
Sumac
Kor Line
Twin Cracks
The Sickle
Lightning Bolt Cracks
Afro Samurai
Obscurity 5.11 (which really isn't on the Poison Ivy Wall and deserves its own area)


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : Poison Ivy Wall : Poison Ivy? (Garden Salad) (5.9-)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: In the 2008 Western Slope guidebook, this is named Poison Ivy and the variation that continues up and right is called Ivy league.


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Wild Iowa Wall
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: Joe has the order listed. I couldn't do it off the top of my head otherwise I would have chimed in earlier. Thanks to you both.


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Wild Iowa Wall
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: The routes on this wall aren't listed in the proper L to R order (or R to L).


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Euro Route (5.11)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: I don't know who put the bolts in, next to a perfect crack, but I know it dates back at least 10 years. My wife climbed it with her brother in 2004 or 2005 and I remember seeing the bolts while climbing in the area prior to 2004.


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