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Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum ...


Member Since: Apr 3, 2002
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Michael Schneiter
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Point Rank: # 48
Total Points: 7,448
Last Year: 426
Last 30 Days: 23
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Michael Schneiter

 
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All 2746 | Routes 234 | Areas 69 | Photos 753 | Page Improvements | Comments 308 | Posts 362 | Stars 997 | Ratings 23
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Narrows : The Schoolyard : Funky Monkey (5.8)
By: Michael Schneiter When: 3 days ago

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Comments: This is now 7 bolts total. I added two bolts to the top of this yesterday, making the final moves on to the ledge less runout and negating the need to bring a single cam for the last part. Before anyone complains about the bolt placement, please consider that the rock is super hollow in the upper portion of the climb and is largely inappropriate for bolts.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Narrows : Narrows Proper : Choss Ninja (5.11)
By: Michael Schneiter When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I added three bolts to this yesterday, so it is now a fully bolted sport climb with five bolts total. The route is clean and climbs well.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Narrows : The Schoolyard : Shorty McFly (5.6)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 15, 2015

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Comments: Sweet, that's great to hear after spending so much time and putting in so much elbow grease establishing climbs, building up base areas, and taking care of the trails. Enjoy!


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree...
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: There is a guidebook by Wolverine Publishing that includes all kinds of Western Colorado climbing, but the last edition was released in 2008, and you'll probably have a hard time finding a copy. The next edition should be out later this year.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Air Patrol (5.10a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 29, 2015

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Comments: I think you may have been on one of the routes to the right, that starts from the top of the big boulder. Both are notoriously hard at the start. I was out there yesterday and looked at the start of Air Patrol, and nothing was changed.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : Mother Lode (5.10)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: All of the bolts on the Mother Lode were replaced/updated with hardware from the ASCA. So, for route finding, you can no longer just look for the old coldshuts. The new bolts are Fixe ASCA bolts that are painted reddish-brown and stand out from the hangers on the new routes close by. One note, we moved the last pitch anchor up and left because the rock for the old anchor was kind of funky. We left one of the old anchor bolts there, with a new hanger. Hence, you co... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : Trooper Traverse (5.8 PG13)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: The first pitch anchor was updated with hardware from the ASCA.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Endless Wall : Transformation (5.11)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: Awesome route. There may actually be 17 bolts on the 3rd pitch, that or we miscounted our draws or something. So, carrying an extra draw or two is never a bad idea. After topping out, we rapped Dazed and Confused with a single 80m and just barely made it (comment on that route page).


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Space Your Face Wall : Dazed and Confused (5.11a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: We rapped this route with a single 80m. The first rap took almost the whole rope, and the second rap, onto the Printer Boy Ledge, involved rapping off the ends while barely touching down on to the ledge. So, you can do it, but just be aware that it isn't ideal. Two more raps from Printer Boy Ledge were easily done after that.


Location: Michael Schneiter : For Sale Items : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: Sorry, they are gone. They were from a post a couple years ago.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Butt Wall : Little Flatulence (5.8)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: The anchor and all of the lead protection bolts have been updated with hardware from the ASCA.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Butt Wall : The Nose (5.6)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: The anchor on the first pitch has been updated with hardware from the ASCA.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Butt Wall : Left Cheek (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: The anchor, shared with Going Greek, has been updated with hardware from the ASCA.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Streaked Wall : Wet Stone Wall (5.10 A4) : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: Looks like a food bucket. I have one like it but not in that cool blue color.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Upper Boulderfield Area : Dog Wall : CNI Dog (5.10c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 11, 2015

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Comments: 8 (?) bolts.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Upper Boulderfield Area : Dog Wall : K9 (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 11, 2015

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Comments: 50 feet. 6 bolts plus anchor.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lamb Dome : Five Ten, You Wuss (5.10c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: I was pretty sure we were on the third pitch of Five Ten, You Wuss, after climbing Tectonomagmtic. Where I had issue was: Following the topo in the 2nd edition Super Topo book shows that after you climb past the line of bolts up the face you go straight up to the loose block at the base of the right facing corner. Instead, I found that you need to traverse 20-25 feet to the right after the last bolt on the face to find that corner.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Footlong (5.12+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: FA: Stevie Damboise.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : NoName 01 (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: The first bolt was replaced with a glue-in Wave Bolt, supplied by the ASCA. The old bolt was in super hollow rock that is also very seepy and was the only bolt that wasn't stainless on the route. Unfortunately, I forgot to pull the old bolt and will have to come back later and do so.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Road Runner (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: The bolts on this climb were replaced with ClimbTech WaveBolt glue-ins, provided courtesy of the ASCA. Enjoy.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Roadside Attraction (aka No... (5.8)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: The last bolt on this climb was replaced with a ClimbTech WaveBolt glue-in, provided courtesy of the ASCA. Enjoy.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Pass the Ditchie (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: The first bolt on this climb was replaced with a ClimbTech WaveBolt glue-in, provided courtesy of the ASCA. It was getting spun or turned, and the hanger had flattened, presumably from falling on it. Considering that it's the only protection to keep you off the deck (20+ feet below), it seemed appropriate for an upgrade. Enjoy.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Dynamite Shacks
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: Yes, thanks for reorganizing the area. As a visiting climber, it was a little tricky to figure out the area during my first visit. I really like the beta photo you added that gives a great overview of the boulders. Much appreciated!


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Safeway Spire - Five Finger... (5.10+ C2-)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Did this route recently and thought it was pretty darn good, although it's definitely got the typical Monument good and bad pitches. Unfortunately, the first pitch is filled with an amazing amount of sticks and birds nest material along with other bird detritus. The crux aid pitch is heady due to the super sandy and soft nature of the rock. All of the anchors and fixed protection are in bomber shape. Enjoy! The route is in an excellent setting!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: The anchors on this route are super bomber. Thanks for the work. I did it five years ago and forgot how awesome the anchors were with multiple big fat bolts and chain at every station. I also forgot or didn't remember how tricky that last move to the anchor on the top of pitch 4 was. Maybe it changed a little or maybe I changed and I'm a little older and a lot wimpier.

Regarding linking pitches, I could see linking some of the early pitches, particularly if you had good rope management and too... more >>


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