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Rock Climbing Photo: Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum ...


Member Since: Apr 3, 2002
Last Visit: 59 mins ago
Contact Michael Schneiter

Michael Schneiter
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Point Rank: # 46
Total Points: 8,271
Last Year: 907
Last 30 Days: 392
247 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Michael Schneiter

 
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All 2964 | Routes 267 | Areas 77 | Photos 826 | Page Improvements | Comments 316 | Posts 375 | Stars 1078 | Ratings 25
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Grit Wall
By: Michael Schneiter When: 6 days ago

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Comments: If you're interested in mileage to help find the pullout, I measured it at 6.4 miles from US Highway 50 to the pullout. If you're coming from the south, it's 2.6 miles from Cactus Park.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Arc Angel (5.10a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: There's a new route to the right of this, climbing just left of a small corner feature. It starts about 30-40 feet right of Arc Angel, on the right side of the tree.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Lever Action (not Downdraft... (5.11d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 28, 2016

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Comments: As I recall, in an old guidebook it listed the route below the roof and to the first anchor as Downdraft and the extension through the roof, via the crack, as Lever Action. Always seems a bit confusing to me to have different route names for every extension to a route.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Kinesava : Cowboy Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 28, 2016

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Comments: Instead of dropping down where the red line is at the bottom of the photo, we stayed on the ridgeline proper and it was fine and really fun. Of course, on a ridge like this there are a lot of options but this was one area where I thought it was worthwhile in terms of reward and effort to stay on the ridge proper.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Kinesava : Cowboy Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 28, 2016

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Comments: There is another descent ramp that parallels this to the skiers left (east) that had a lot of cairns leading to it and going down it. We took that lefthand variation and it was pretty good. I think there are multiple ways to go but I am under the impression that perhaps the lefthand version we took is preferred over this chimney-like option.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 5, 2016

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Comments: No. See here: nps.gov/zion/learn/news/climbi...


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Upper Boulderfield Area : Pitbull Cliff : Jungle Boy (5.12a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: Anchor updated with hardware courtesy of the ASCA. The lead protection bolts on this are in sorry shape and in need of replacement, particularly the first three. All of those first three have bent and/or spinning hangers.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Upper Boulderfield Area : Pitbull Cliff : Little, Black Book (5.11a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: Anchor updated with hardware courtesy of the ASCA


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Narrows : The Schoolyard : Funky Monkey (5.8)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: This is now 7 bolts total. I added two bolts to the top of this yesterday, making the final moves on to the ledge less runout and negating the need to bring a single cam for the last part. Before anyone complains about the bolt placement, please consider that the rock is super hollow in the upper portion of the climb and is largely inappropriate for bolts.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Narrows : Narrows Proper : Choss Ninja (5.11)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: I added three bolts to this yesterday, so it is now a fully bolted sport climb with five bolts total. The route is clean and climbs well.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Narrows : The Schoolyard : Shorty McFly (5.6)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 15, 2015

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Comments: Sweet, that's great to hear after spending so much time and putting in so much elbow grease establishing climbs, building up base areas, and taking care of the trails. Enjoy!


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree...
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: There is a guidebook by Wolverine Publishing that includes all kinds of Western Colorado climbing, but the last edition was released in 2008, and you'll probably have a hard time finding a copy. The next edition should be out later this year.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Air Patrol (5.10a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 29, 2015

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Comments: I think you may have been on one of the routes to the right, that starts from the top of the big boulder. Both are notoriously hard at the start. I was out there yesterday and looked at the start of Air Patrol, and nothing was changed.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : Mother Lode (5.10)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: All of the bolts on the Mother Lode were replaced/updated with hardware from the ASCA. So, for route finding, you can no longer just look for the old coldshuts. The new bolts are Fixe ASCA bolts that are painted reddish-brown and stand out from the hangers on the new routes close by. One note, we moved the last pitch anchor up and left because the rock for the old anchor was kind of funky. We left one of the old anchor bolts there, with a new hanger. Hence, you co... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : Trooper Traverse (5.8 PG13)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: The first pitch anchor was updated with hardware from the ASCA.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Endless Wall : Transformation (5.11)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: Awesome route. There may actually be 17 bolts on the 3rd pitch, that or we miscounted our draws or something. So, carrying an extra draw or two is never a bad idea. After topping out, we rapped Dazed and Confused with a single 80m and just barely made it (comment on that route page).


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Space Your Face Wall : Dazed and Confused (5.11a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: We rapped this route with a single 80m. The first rap took almost the whole rope, and the second rap, onto the Printer Boy Ledge, involved rapping off the ends while barely touching down on to the ledge. So, you can do it, but just be aware that it isn't ideal. Two more raps from Printer Boy Ledge were easily done after that.


Location: Old : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: Sorry, they are gone. They were from a post a couple years ago.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Butt Wall : Little Flatulence (5.8+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: The anchor and all of the lead protection bolts have been updated with hardware from the ASCA.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Butt Wall : The Nose (5.6)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: The anchor on the first pitch has been updated with hardware from the ASCA.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Butt Wall : Left Cheek (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: The anchor, shared with Going Greek, has been updated with hardware from the ASCA.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Streaked Wall : Wet Stone Wall (5.10 A4) : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: Looks like a food bucket. I have one like it but not in that cool blue color.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Upper Boulderfield Area : Dog Wall : CNI Dog (5.10c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 11, 2015

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Comments: 8 (?) bolts.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Upper Boulderfield Area : Dog Wall : K9 (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 11, 2015

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Comments: 50 feet. 6 bolts plus anchor.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lamb Dome : Five Ten, You Wuss (5.10c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: I was pretty sure we were on the third pitch of Five Ten, You Wuss, after climbing Tectonomagmtic. Where I had issue was: Following the topo in the 2nd edition Super Topo book shows that after you climb past the line of bolts up the face you go straight up to the loose block at the base of the right facing corner. Instead, I found that you need to traverse 20-25 feet to the right after the last bolt on the face to find that corner.


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