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Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum ...


Member Since: Apr 3, 2002
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
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Michael Schneiter
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Point Rank: # 48
Total Points: 7,423
Last Year: 410
Last 30 Days: 11
241 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Michael Schneiter

 
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All 2725 | Routes 233 | Areas 69 | Photos 751 | Page Improvements | Comments 303 | Posts 362 | Stars 984 | Ratings 23
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : Mother Lode (5.10)
By: Michael Schneiter When: 3 days ago

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Comments: All of the bolts on the Mother Lode were replaced/updated with hardware from the ASCA. So, for route finding, you can no longer just look for the old cold shuts. The new bolts are Fixe ASCA bolts that are painted reddish-brown and stand out from the hangers on the new routes close by. One note, we moved the last pitch anchor up and left because the rock for the old anchor was kind of funky. We left one of the old anchor bolts there, with a new hanger. Hence, you c... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : Trooper Traverse (5.8 PG13)
By: Michael Schneiter When: 3 days ago

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Comments: The first pitch anchor was updated with hardware from the ASCA


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Endless Wall : Transformation (5.11)
By: Michael Schneiter When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Awesome route. There may actually be 17 bolts on the 3rd pitch, that or we miscounted our draws or something. So, carrying an extra draw or two is never a bad idea. After topping out we rapped Dazed and Confused with a single 80 and just barely made it (comment on that route page).


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Space Your Face Wall : Dazed and Confused (5.11a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: 3 days ago

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Comments: We rapped this route with a single 80. The first rap took almost the whole rope and the second rap, onto the Printer Boy Ledge, involved rapping off the ends while barely touching down on to the ledge. So, you can do it but just be aware that it isn't ideal. Two more raps from Printer Boy Ledge were easily done after that.


Location: Michael Schneiter : For Sale Items : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Sorry, they are gone. They were from a post a couple years ago.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Butt Wall : Little Flatulence (5.8)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: The anchor and all of the lead protection bolts have been updated with hardware from the ASCA.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Butt Wall : The Nose (5.6)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: The anchor on the first pitch has been updated with hardware from the ASCA.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Butt Wall : Left Cheek (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: The anchor, shared with Going Greek, has been updated with hardware from the ASCA.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Streaked Wall : Wet Stone Wall (5.10 A4) : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: Looks like a food bucket. I have one like it but not in that cool blue color.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Upper Boulderfield Area : Dog Wall : CNI Dog (5.10c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 11, 2015

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Comments: 8 (?) bolts.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Upper Boulderfield Area : Dog Wall : K9 (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 11, 2015

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Comments: 50 feet. 6 bolts plus anchor.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lamb Dome : Five Ten, You Wuss (5.10c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: I was pretty sure we were on the third pitch of Five Ten, You Wuss, after climbing Tectonomagmtic. Where I had issue was: Following the topo in the 2nd edition Super Topo book shows that after you climb past the line of bolts up the face you go straight up to the loose block at the base of the right facing corner. Instead, I found that you need to traverse 20-25 feet to the right after the last bolt on the face to find that corner.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Footlong (5.12+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: FA: Stevie Damboise.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : NoName 01 (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: The first bolt was replaced with a glue-in Wave Bolt, supplied by the ASCA. The old bolt was in super hollow rock that is also very seepy and was the only bolt that wasn't stainless on the route. Unfortunately, I forgot to pull the old bolt and will have to come back later and do so.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Road Runner (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: The bolts on this climb were replaced with ClimbTech WaveBolt glue-ins, provided courtesy of the ASCA. Enjoy.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Roadside Attraction (aka No... (5.8)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: The last bolt on this climb was replaced with a ClimbTech WaveBolt glue-in, provided courtesy of the ASCA. Enjoy.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Pass the Ditchie (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: The first bolt on this climb was replaced with a ClimbTech WaveBolt glue-in, provided courtesy of the ASCA. It was getting spun or turned, and the hanger had flattened, presumably from falling on it. Considering that it's the only protection to keep you off the deck (20+ feet below), it seemed appropriate for an upgrade. Enjoy.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Dynamite Shacks
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: Yes, thanks for reorganizing the area. As a visiting climber, it was a little tricky to figure out the area during my first visit. I really like the beta photo you added that gives a great overview of the boulders. Much appreciated!


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Safeway Spire - Five Finger... (5.10+ C2-)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Did this route recently and thought it was pretty darn good, although it's definitely got the typical Monument good and bad pitches. Unfortunately, the first pitch is filled with an amazing amount of sticks and birds nest material along with other bird detritus. The crux aid pitch is heady due to the super sandy and soft nature of the rock. All of the anchors and fixed protection are in bomber shape. Enjoy! The route is in an excellent setting!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: The anchors on this route are super bomber. Thanks for the work. I did it five years ago and forgot how awesome the anchors were with multiple big fat bolts and chain at every station. I also forgot or didn't remember how tricky that last move to the anchor on the top of pitch 4 was. Maybe it changed a little or maybe I changed and I'm a little older and a lot wimpier.

Regarding linking pitches, I could see linking some of the early pitches, particularly if you had good rope management and too... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Lizards & Scorpions w/ Sky ... (5.11+ PG13)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Downclimbing the 5.7 pitch to the anchor at the top of pitch 3 is really bad beta and is just unnecessarily risky when it's super easy to just fix a 70m rope and rap to the top of pitch 2. You can catch a glimpse of the prominent corner when you are looker's left of the route. You'll see rope grooves in the rock on the rim to help show you where to rap. Great route. Do it!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Dragon's Tail : Southeast Face (5.6 C1)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: It may be worth to note that in addition to the free or crack aid moves you have to make 3/4 of the way up the first pitch that also have to do the same at the top, with some grovely moves to reach the anchor.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : The Hindu : Maverick (5.9 C2)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: On Pitch 2 there is currently a rope anchored to two pins and a new-ish looking bolt that is just below an old star drive. That rope was then also anchored into the pitch 1 belay so you could cheat through this whole section. Not wanting to cheat through I still did the aid moves and found them to be as C1 as C1 can get. I used a bit of tension off the anchor and reached up and placed a bomber offset cam (orange-yellow Metolius I think) and then stepped up and placed another bomber offset cam be... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Roadside Cragging : Terror Dreams (5.8+ A1+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: I replaced the pin that was missing before the first bolt. I placed an angle in the hole that is bomber. For now.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: That's awesome. My father-in-law is a geologist and he used to kid the family about the "granite worms" they would see along the trails, aka the holes left from blasting done to build trails. Maybe this picture is proof of the granite worms! Ha ha!


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