Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum ...


Member Since: Apr 3, 2002
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Michael Schneiter


Point Rank: # 48
Total Points: 7,352
Last Year: 366
Last 30 Days: 2
233 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Michael Schneiter been climbing?










Mountain Project continues to expand with Hiking Project, and we're giving away loads of gear from Arc'Teryx, Superfeet, & Zeal. Check it out!

Michael Schneiter

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 2669 | Routes 230 | Areas 69 | Photos 746 | Page Improvements | Comments 287 | Posts 356 | Stars 958 | Ratings 23
Page 1 of 12.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Dynamite Shacks
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, thanks for reorganizing the area. As a visiting climber, it was a little tricky to figure out the area during my first visit. I really like the beta photo you added that gives a great overview of the boulders. Much appreciated!


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Safeway Spire - Five Finger... (5.10+ C2-)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 30, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Did this route recently and thought it was pretty darn good, although it's definitely got the typical Monument good and bad pitches. Unfortunately, the first pitch is filled with an amazing amount of sticks and birds nest material along with other bird detritus. The crux aid pitch is heady due to the super sandy and soft nature of the rock. All of the anchors and fixed protection are in bomber shape. Enjoy! The route is in an excellent setting!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The anchors on this route are super bomber. Thanks for the work. I did it five years ago and forgot how awesome the anchors were with multiple big fat bolts and chain at every station. I also forgot or didn't remember how tricky that last move to the anchor on the top of pitch 4 was. Maybe it changed a little or maybe I changed and I'm a little older and a lot wimpier.

Regarding linking pitches, I could see linking some of the early pitches, particularly if you had good rope management and too... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Lizards & Scorpions w/ Sky ... (5.11+ PG13)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Downclimbing the 5.7 pitch to the anchor at the top of pitch 3 is really bad beta and is just unnecessarily risky when it's super easy to just fix a 70m rope and rap to the top of pitch 2. You can catch a glimpse of the prominent corner when you are looker's left of the route. You'll see rope grooves in the rock on the rim to help show you where to rap. Great route. Do it!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Dragon's Tail : Southeast Face (5.6 C1)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: It may be worth to note that in addition to the free or crack aid moves you have to make 3/4 of the way up the first pitch that also have to do the same at the top, with some grovely moves to reach the anchor.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : The Hindu : Maverick (5.9 C2)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: On Pitch 2 there is currently a rope anchored to two pins and a new-ish looking bolt that is just below an old star drive. That rope was then also anchored into the pitch 1 belay so you could cheat through this whole section. Not wanting to cheat through I still did the aid moves and found them to be as C1 as C1 can get. I used a bit of tension off the anchor and reached up and placed a bomber offset cam (orange-yellow Metolius I think) and then stepped up and placed another bomber offset cam be... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Roadside Cragging : Terror Dreams (5.8+ A1+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I replaced the pin that was missing before the first bolt. I placed an angle in the hole that is bomber. For now.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: That's awesome. My father-in-law is a geologist and he used to kid the family about the "granite worms" they would see along the trails, aka the holes left from blasting done to build trails. Maybe this picture is proof of the granite worms! Ha ha!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock
By: Michael Schneiter When: Sep 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, there are a few USFS campgrounds close by. Twin Peaks and Parry Peak are east of Monitor and within a few miles.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Bauhaus Wall : Motley Cruise (5.11a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: All protection bolts and anchor bolts replaced with Fixe glue-ins, provided by the ASCA.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : In Your Face (5.12d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The remaining old bolts (first perma-drawed bolt and last bolt) on Pinch Fest (other than the useless, low first bolt) were replaced with ClimbTech glue-in WaveBolts provided by the ASCA.

The other bolts were replaced a few years ago with stainless 5 pieces.

Enjoy!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Pinch Fest (5.12b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The remaining old bolts on Pinch Fest (other than the useless, low first bolt) were replaced with ClimbTech glue-in WaveBolts provided by the ASCA. A few of the quicklinks were updated and were provided by C.A.M.P..

The crux bolt was replaced a few years ago with a stainless 5 piece. The old holes were reused except for the last bolt which was spinning and nothing I had could get it to come out.

Enjoy!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : The Funny Face : Pryor (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Big, fat, fresh Fixe Draco steel carabiners were placed on this for lowering, provided by the ASCA.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : The Funny Face : Martin & Lewis (5.9-)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I don't know who added the new first bolt on this, but it wasn't me. It was added last year.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : The Funny Face : Sellers (5.9+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I don't know who added the new first bolt on this, but it wasn't me. It was added last year.

Big, fat, fresh Fixe Draco steel carabiners were placed on this for lowering, provided by the ASCA.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Rehabilitator (5.11c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 31, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The first bolt was replaced with a glue-in provided by the ASCA. I believe the rest of the bolts, or the majority of them, were replaced a few years ago with stainless hardware. Enjoy.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Irie Meditation (5.11d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 31, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Almost all of the old bolts on this have now been replaced with glue-in hardware from the ASCA. One original bolt toward the top remains. Enjoy.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Bottom Feeder (5.11b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 31, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Almost all of the old bolts on this have now been replaced with glue-in hardware from the ASCA. Just the original 2nd bolt remains. Enjoy.


Location: CO : New Feature: Improve This P...
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Fitz is talking about Feline in Rifle. Leo, I can PM you later today with an idea I had about cleaning up that area and making the directions to Feline, and other climbs in that vicinity, a lot better. Cheers.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Brenna (5.11a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There isn't a new line to the right of Brenna but instead a variation called Air Patrol. You start on Brenna and go right after the first bolt and joining Stirring of Air, thus avoiding Stirring's wicked hard and isolated crux. Makes for a nice 10a.

I'll check out the anchor on Brenna next time I'm out there.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Exit Wall : Exit Strategy (5.10d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Unless I'm blind, I'm pretty sure the first two routes on the left, No Exit and Exit Strategy, share an anchor. I couldn't find a separate anchor no matter how hard I looked. Hence, the 2008 guidebook and the description here are inaccurate. Please correct me if I'm wrong.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Exit Wall : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Unless I'm blind, I'm pretty sure the first two routes on the left, No Exit and Exit Strategy, share an anchor. I couldn't find a separate anchor no matter how hard I looked. Hence, the 2008 guidebook and this topo are inaccurate. Please correct me if I'm wrong.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The NoName numbering system was started when people first started posting stuff here, but their usefulness has worn off. I agree with getting rid of those NoName numbers, or keeping them in parentheses because there are some beta photos with the numbering system I believe. Part of the confusion may be that the Lower Wall has an upper tier, so when doing a L to R ordering, it makes it a little tricky because there are climbs on top of other climbs. The organization I've got on the page for the Lo... more >>


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : Poison Ivy Wall : Twin Cracks aka Railroad Cr... (5.8)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: In the 2008 Western Slope guidebook, this is called Railroad Cracks.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : Poison Ivy Wall
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Proper left to right for routes on the Poison Ivy Wall:

The Itch
Sumac
Kor Line
Twin Cracks
The Sickle
Lightning Bolt Cracks
Afro Samurai
Obscurity 5.11 (which really isn't on the Poison Ivy Wall and deserves its own area)


Page 1 of 12.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!