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Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum ...


Member Since: Apr 3, 2002
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact Michael Schneiter

Michael Schneiter
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Point Rank: # 48
Total Points: 7,413
Last Year: 401
Last 30 Days: 12
239 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Michael Schneiter

 
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Contributions


All 2697 | Routes 233 | Areas 69 | Photos 751 | Page Improvements | Comments 293 | Posts 359 | Stars 969 | Ratings 23
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lamb Dome : Five Ten, You Wuss (5.10c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: I was pretty sure we were on the third pitch of Five Ten, You Wuss, after climbing Tectonomagmtic. Where I had issue was: Following the topo in the 2nd edition Super Topo book shows that after you climb past the line of bolts up the face you go straight up to the loose block at the base of the right facing corner. Instead, I found that you need to traverse 20-25 feet to the right after the last bolt on the face to find that corner.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Footlong (5.12+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: FA: Stevie Damboise.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : NoName 01 (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: The first bolt was replaced with a glue-in Wave Bolt, supplied by the ASCA. The old bolt was in super hollow rock that is also very seepy and was the only bolt that wasn't stainless on the route. Unfortunately, I forgot to pull the old bolt and will have to come back later and do so.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Road Runner (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: The bolts on this climb were replaced with ClimbTech WaveBolt glue-ins, provided courtesy of the ASCA. Enjoy.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Roadside Attraction (aka No... (5.8)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: The last bolt on this climb was replaced with a ClimbTech WaveBolt glue-in, provided courtesy of the ASCA. Enjoy.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Pass the Ditchie (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: The first bolt on this climb was replaced with a ClimbTech WaveBolt glue-in, provided courtesy of the ASCA. It was getting spun or turned, and the hanger had flattened, presumably from falling on it. Considering that it's the only protection to keep you off the deck (20+ feet below), it seemed appropriate for an upgrade. Enjoy.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Dynamite Shacks
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: Yes, thanks for reorganizing the area. As a visiting climber, it was a little tricky to figure out the area during my first visit. I really like the beta photo you added that gives a great overview of the boulders. Much appreciated!


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Safeway Spire - Five Finger... (5.10+ C2-)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Did this route recently and thought it was pretty darn good, although it's definitely got the typical Monument good and bad pitches. Unfortunately, the first pitch is filled with an amazing amount of sticks and birds nest material along with other bird detritus. The crux aid pitch is heady due to the super sandy and soft nature of the rock. All of the anchors and fixed protection are in bomber shape. Enjoy! The route is in an excellent setting!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: The anchors on this route are super bomber. Thanks for the work. I did it five years ago and forgot how awesome the anchors were with multiple big fat bolts and chain at every station. I also forgot or didn't remember how tricky that last move to the anchor on the top of pitch 4 was. Maybe it changed a little or maybe I changed and I'm a little older and a lot wimpier.

Regarding linking pitches, I could see linking some of the early pitches, particularly if you had good rope management and too... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Lizards & Scorpions w/ Sky ... (5.11+ PG13)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Downclimbing the 5.7 pitch to the anchor at the top of pitch 3 is really bad beta and is just unnecessarily risky when it's super easy to just fix a 70m rope and rap to the top of pitch 2. You can catch a glimpse of the prominent corner when you are looker's left of the route. You'll see rope grooves in the rock on the rim to help show you where to rap. Great route. Do it!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Dragon's Tail : Southeast Face (5.6 C1)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: It may be worth to note that in addition to the free or crack aid moves you have to make 3/4 of the way up the first pitch that also have to do the same at the top, with some grovely moves to reach the anchor.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : The Hindu : Maverick (5.9 C2)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: On Pitch 2 there is currently a rope anchored to two pins and a new-ish looking bolt that is just below an old star drive. That rope was then also anchored into the pitch 1 belay so you could cheat through this whole section. Not wanting to cheat through I still did the aid moves and found them to be as C1 as C1 can get. I used a bit of tension off the anchor and reached up and placed a bomber offset cam (orange-yellow Metolius I think) and then stepped up and placed another bomber offset cam be... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Roadside Cragging : Terror Dreams (5.8+ A1+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: I replaced the pin that was missing before the first bolt. I placed an angle in the hole that is bomber. For now.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: That's awesome. My father-in-law is a geologist and he used to kid the family about the "granite worms" they would see along the trails, aka the holes left from blasting done to build trails. Maybe this picture is proof of the granite worms! Ha ha!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock
By: Michael Schneiter When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Yes, there are a few USFS campgrounds close by. Twin Peaks and Parry Peak are east of Monitor and within a few miles.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Bauhaus Wall : Motley Cruise (5.11a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: All protection bolts and anchor bolts replaced with Fixe glue-ins, provided by the ASCA.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : In Your Face (5.12d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: The remaining old bolts (first perma-drawed bolt and last bolt) on Pinch Fest (other than the useless, low first bolt) were replaced with ClimbTech glue-in WaveBolts provided by the ASCA.

The other bolts were replaced a few years ago with stainless 5 pieces.

Enjoy!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Pinch Fest (5.12b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: The remaining old bolts on Pinch Fest (other than the useless, low first bolt) were replaced with ClimbTech glue-in WaveBolts provided by the ASCA. A few of the quicklinks were updated and were provided by C.A.M.P..

The crux bolt was replaced a few years ago with a stainless 5 piece. The old holes were reused except for the last bolt which was spinning and nothing I had could get it to come out.

Enjoy!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : The Funny Face : Pryor (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 6, 2014

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Comments: Big, fat, fresh Fixe Draco steel carabiners were placed on this for lowering, provided by the ASCA.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : The Funny Face : Martin & Lewis (5.9-)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 6, 2014

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Comments: I don't know who added the new first bolt on this, but it wasn't me. It was added last year.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : The Funny Face : Sellers (5.9+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 6, 2014

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Comments: I don't know who added the new first bolt on this, but it wasn't me. It was added last year.

Big, fat, fresh Fixe Draco steel carabiners were placed on this for lowering, provided by the ASCA.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Rehabilitator (5.11c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: The first bolt was replaced with a glue-in provided by the ASCA. I believe the rest of the bolts, or the majority of them, were replaced a few years ago with stainless hardware. Enjoy.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Irie Meditation (5.11d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: Almost all of the old bolts on this have now been replaced with glue-in hardware from the ASCA. One original bolt toward the top remains. Enjoy.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Bottom Feeder (5.11b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: Almost all of the old bolts on this have now been replaced with glue-in hardware from the ASCA. Just the original 2nd bolt remains. Enjoy.


Location: CO : New Feature: Improve This P...
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: Fitz is talking about Feline in Rifle. Leo, I can PM you later today with an idea I had about cleaning up that area and making the directions to Feline, and other climbs in that vicinity, a lot better. Cheers.


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