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 ADVANCED
Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum with my wife.


Member Since: Apr 3, 2002
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Michael Schneiter


Point Rank: # 48
Total Points: 7,014
Last Year: 1,125
Last 30 Days: 14
202 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Michael Schneiter been climbing?










Michael Schneiter

 
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Contributions


All 2557 | Routes 229 | Areas 61 | Photos 708 | Page Improvments | Comments 269 | Posts 344 | Stars 923 | Ratings 23
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : New Feature: Improve This P...
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: Fitz is talking about Feline in Rifle. Leo, I can PM you later today with an idea I had about cleaning up that area and making the directions to Feline, and other climbs in that vicinity, a lot better. Cheers.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Brenna (5.11a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: There isn't a new line to the right of Brenna but instead a variation called Air Patrol. You start on Brenna and go right after the first bolt and joining Stirring of Air, thus avoiding Stirring's wicked hard and isolated crux. Makes for a nice 10a.

I'll check out the anchor on Brenna next time I'm out there.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Exit Wall : Exit Strategy (5.10d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Unless I'm blind, I'm pretty sure the first two routes on the left, No Exit and Exit Strategy, share an anchor. I couldn't find a separate anchor no matter how hard I looked. Hence, the 2008 guidebook and the description here are inaccurate. Please correct me if I'm wrong.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Exit Wall : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Unless I'm blind, I'm pretty sure the first two routes on the left, No Exit and Exit Strategy, share an anchor. I couldn't find a separate anchor no matter how hard I looked. Hence, the 2008 guidebook and this topo are inaccurate. Please correct me if I'm wrong.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: The NoName numbering system was started when people first started posting stuff here, but their usefulness has worn off. I agree with getting rid of those NoName numbers, or keeping them in parentheses because there are some beta photos with the numbering system I believe. Part of the confusion may be that the Lower Wall has an upper tier, so when doing a L to R ordering, it makes it a little tricky because there are climbs on top of other climbs. The organization I've got on the page for the Lo... more >>


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : Poison Ivy Wall : Twin Cracks aka Railroad Cr... (5.8)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: In the 2008 Western Slope guidebook, this is called Railroad Cracks.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : Poison Ivy Wall
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: Proper left to right for routes on the Poison Ivy Wall:

The Itch
Sumac
Kor Line
Twin Cracks
The Sickle
Lightning Bolt Cracks
Afro Samurai
Obscurity 5.11 (which really isn't on the Poison Ivy Wall and deserves its own area)


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : Poison Ivy Wall : Poison Ivy? (Garden Salad) (5.9-)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: In the 2008 Western Slope guidebook, this is named Poison Ivy and the variation that continues up and right is called Ivy league.


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Wild Iowa Wall
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: Joe has the order listed. I couldn't do it off the top of my head otherwise I would have chimed in earlier. Thanks to you both.


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Wild Iowa Wall
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: The routes on this wall aren't listed in the proper L to R order (or R to L).


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Euro Route (5.11)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: I don't know who put the bolts in, next to a perfect crack, but I know it dates back at least 10 years. My wife climbed it with her brother in 2004 or 2005 and I remember seeing the bolts while climbing in the area prior to 2004.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Angel's Landing : Lowe Route (A2)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 5, 2014

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Comments: Mike Anderson freed it, with a 3 pitch variation, at 5.13a.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : The Boulders : Brought to you by the lette... (5.5 V-easy PG13)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: Probably not appropriate to claim FAs on the easier lines on the boulders. First bolted ascent, maybe, but not a true FA. People have climbed here for a long time, and there were existing anchors on many of these lines. I personally free soloed the easier lines many times, and I'm sure I wasn't the first. Plus, the route Bert follows a crack that is easily protected.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Petrified Wall
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: If traveling from the south (from Gateway or the Unaweep granite), it is 3.5 miles from the Cactus Park turnoff to the parking lot for the Petrified Wall.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: Maybe an admin can update the info in the description: The day pass at Rifle is $5 per car. You can get season passes, which are a great deal, from the campground host/park ranger or at the City of Rifle Parks Department in town.

The camping fee is increasing to $10 this year.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Monster Tower : North Ridge (5.11)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: We rapped the route with a single 60 meter rope (an Edelweiss FYI, although I'm not sure if it's extra long compared to other 60s). Tie knots in the ends as all of the raps were long and close to the limit of a 60 and the last rap required some easy down climbing for a few feet.

Rap lengths by pitches: Pitch 5 was 95'. Pitch 4 was 90'. Pitch 3 was 100'. Pitch 2 was all of 100' with some helpful rope stretch. Pitch 1 was just over 100' with 5 feet of easy down climbing.

There is currently a l... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Standing Rock : The Regular Route (5.11c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: Also, we had read the comments about the summit needing a new register so we brought one up, although someone else had beat us to the punch. Either way, there is now a good register up there.

Also, it was a rope stretching 100 foot rappel from the top of pitch one to the ground. Call it 102' and tie knots in the end if you're going to rap that section with a single 60.

And, we took new #4 and #5 Camalots and used them although I'm a bit of a wimp and like to place a lot of gear. ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Standing Rock : The Regular Route (5.11c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: Jake's beta is good for the fixed line approach but here's a little to add: The section of road where you are driving on slick rock and are very close to the edge of Monument Basin, with the arched tower visible, is a great landmark. It is .7 mile from that arched tower viewpoint to the pullout. There is a wide, sandy wash you cross with steep sandy driving on both sides of the wash. We pulled into a small wash on the left (pictured below) just after that wider sandy wash. I think that's ... more >>


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Pup Tent of Solitude : Jennifer's World (5.11c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 2, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Jeff. So, what's the bolt count on this now? Is there still a nut? I can update the route description. It's a sweet, sweet route! Thanks for putting it in.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Isaac : Tricks of the Trade (5.10+ C2+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: Admins, do you think we could or should change the name of this route to Tricks of the Trade? It is the name of the route (see comments above from Middendorf's site) and having the wrong name on this page just seems to add confusion and make it hard to search in the database. Thanks.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Glenwood Canyon Ice : Glenwood Falls - Left / Rig... (WI4-5)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jan 17, 2014

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Comments: No raps are needed if you go up to the base of the quartzite and head climber's left into the large quartzite amphitheater where Deep Throat is located. From there, hike down the gully and then cross over a small ridge to get into the gully on the climber's left side of Glenwood Falls, putting you back at the base and your packs with relative ease.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Glenwood Canyon Ice : Unknown (WI4-5)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jan 17, 2014

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Comments: This climb is almost exactly 70 meters long. I lead it in one long pitch the other day, and the rope came tight a few meters before the large tree on the right side of the gully with many slings. Easily rapped with two 70 meter cords.

While possible to lead it in one pitch, it's not recommended unless you use long slings and your belayer is prepared to simul-climb the start.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Upper Exum Ridge (5.5) : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: We sprinted out of there and got off quickly. I don't think we felt a drop of rain from the storm until we were well into Garnet Canyon. It helps that we were moving super light and fast.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Grey Slabs : The Thread (5.9+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: I believe the pro was 5 bolts, a pin between the 1st and 2nd bolt, and an in situ thread (old rope) near the top.

And, it's much more like 70-80 feet instead of 90. Still, well-spaced pro.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Grey Slabs : Sugar Pop (5.10d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: Thanks Jeff. I must have put my comment on the wrong route. My bad. I'm going to delete me comment and move it to the appropriate route. Thanks for putting up these routes. It's a fun and interesting place to climb!


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