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Myke Komarnitsky


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Michael Komarnitsky


Point Rank: # 131
Total Points: 3,341
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
115 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Michael Komarnitsky been climbing?










Michael Komarnitsky

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 706 | Routes 96 | Areas 45 | Photos 323 | Page Improvements | Comments 91 | Posts 51 | Stars 100 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : MountainProject is LIVE
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Jan 19, 2006

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Comments: The King is dead! Long live the king!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Red Devil : Hell Freezes Over (5.12a)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Aug 28, 2004

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Comments: This is the first bolted route to be put up in the Flatirons since 1991. Props to the FA group, and a thanks to the Flatirons Climbing Coalition (flatironsclimbing.org/) for their work in rebuilding the climbing community's relationship with Open Space Managers.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Little John's Big Stick (5.10a)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Aug 4, 2004

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Comments: We were kinda overdue for one of these discussions... but a quick note from a "moderator" of the site:

One, this is a legitimate topic for discussion.

Two, people seem to be failing to follow the single rule we have for posting: "Don't be a jerk." I know that's pretty complicated, but please do try.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Earth Voyage (5.12a)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Jan 22, 2004

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Comments: Hey Asshole Coward, another site maintainer here. I'm puzzled by the affliction of people like you whose instincts are to bitch and moan instead of actually contributing to society. Didn't you send us an email a long time ago?

Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 12:52:48 -0600 NAME: Jim StevensEMAIL: Meadroon@aol.com

COMMENTS Your FA: unknowns is lame, especially in Dream Canyon. Everyone knows tghat Bob Horan put up those 4 pitch routes, how ignorant especially when it in the references you qoute, Anothe... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Sep 27, 2003

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Comments: A few comments... first, what is up with pitch 1?? that's the hardest 5.4 squeeze chimney I've ever seen. Both my partner and I should pitch 3 was definitely more difficult and sustained than P2. P3 protection above the bolt was clipping a ratty sling and then a yellow alien in the back of the final squeeze chimney.

The screw oval at the top of P3 is OPEN and BENT - DO NOT USE. We rapped off a leaver biner, but I fear for the party that doesn't notice the condition. It should definitely be... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Sep 27, 2003

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Comments: Rapping - you can rap the route with a single 60m. Green's guide is ambiguous about this, but it will definitely (but just barely) reach. Use appropriate judgement regarding other parties on the route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Off The Cuff (5.6 X)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Jul 30, 2003

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Comments: It seems that this worrisome block has fallen off....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Heavy Weather (5.9)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Jul 22, 2003

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Comments: The above comment on the "death blocks" deterred me from climbing this route.... until today. After seeing them, I do not believe the dire words accurately projects the situation. I believe Mark is referring to a horizontal 5'x5' flake pushing edgewise on a veritcally aligned 5' x 5' flake by the belay below the summit pitch. Indeed the horizontal one is loose - stepping on it causes wobbling. If it did go and hit someone, they would not survive.

Disclaimer: Everything I write below is com... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Gravity's Angel (5.11b)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Jul 22, 2003

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Comments: I don't think the danger from the Heavy Weather death blocks applies.... the fall line for those blocks is well to the left of this route.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Ship's Prow : Ship Of Fools (5.11 PG13)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Jul 12, 2003

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Comments: Gillett and Bubb Clarification (after off-site discussion):

"Gillett's guide shows the belay and subsequent crux on the right side of the arete, while Bubb felt both existed on the left side."

"He and I have agreed to disagree about which side of the arete the bolts are on, and that we agree that you'll find it anyway if they are watching carefully on the rap."


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Culp-Bossier (5.8+)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Jul 12, 2003

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Comments: Whoops. What Tom Isaacson said about P6. PS, no bolt on the last pitch, as far as I saw.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Culp-Bossier (5.8+)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Jul 12, 2003

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Comments: As we finished (Charles Vernon's) Pitch 6, I took a long traverse right (50') around a corner and belayed next to a huge pin with an enormous detached block, at the base of a steep rightward leaning ramp. Above us was (I'm pretty sure) the crux pitch - steep 5.7 s face moves to a steeper crack splitting right between two sections of cream-colored (and rotten looking) rock.

It doesn't sound like this was the belay everyone else found, but it sure seemed to work well for us. We tried to deciph... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Syke's Sickle (5.9+)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Jul 7, 2003

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Comments: Probably the best route I've ever done in the park, I had dreams about laybacking huge flakes for hundreds of feet last night - my brain trying to process the day's experiences. The bolt on the final pitch: I started the traverse 15 feet down from the belay, on the block resting in the crack. The holds seemed more defined here, and I wasn't too sketched out.

That roof wrecked us - my partner got his hand stuck in a twisted fist jam and nearly broke his knuckle, and I ended up using a heel-to... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Wired (5.9+ PG13)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Jul 4, 2003

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Comments: For leading, I'd suggest 1 ~red Alien sized, a #2 Camalot for the end, and then a few nuts/RPs no bigger than #4 stopper. We TR'ed in and fiddled with pro for a bit, everything was a little questionable.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Apr 29, 2003

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Comments: In that case.... after topping out on the wind tower, travel north for approximately 200 yards from the summit point. Travel is typically easiest on the E side of the ridge within ~50 yards of the ridgeline (it varies). Get to an obvious rotton notch that's about 10-15 feet wide. The bolts face north, are in this notch, and are set up to allow a good rappell back down to the visible descent trail 60 feet below.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Cozyhang (5.7)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Apr 12, 2003

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Comments: I'd hate to see the sequence shot for that guy's maneuver. Makes my back hurt just looking at it!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Ignominity (5.9)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Apr 2, 2003

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Comments: Tony, I can't seem to place your "Ignore me" variation.... the pictures to me look like the standard roof exit on pitch 3. Can you clarify?

My two shakes: seems like this route deserves an 's' rating to me. P1's 5.7-5.8 moves are above a #3 Camalot (with a shoulder runner if you're smart), with potential to deck on the ledge below if you screw up the unclear sequence up to the tree.

Pitch 3: While a #4 would probably have made me feel better, I would have been in for a nice blood... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Nov 19, 2002

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Comments: FWIW (and for my own memory), here's my beta for the roof on p2. (thanks to Josh Janes for beta assistance):

Get your right hand on the undercling that's just next to the corner, up higher than the bottom underclings (not as big/nice as the one to the right or the giant one lower). The key is to twist your hand 180 degrees from normal undercling position (think looking down your tricep). Left hand is somewhere (damn, already forgot what I did with it. It's ok, this isn't hard yet). Walk yo... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Nov 1, 2002

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Comments: Boulder Canyon - possible, but river still flowing.Moffat [Tunnel] - non-existent on South facing, possible on N-facing, but again couldn't cross the riverHidden Falls - couldn't cross river (see a trend?), but looked at it from a ways away, and it's not ready yet. Fully down, but looked very thin and fragile.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Oct 21, 2002

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Comments: My beta for upper ruper:

Do a 150' pitch to an alcove about 20' below the roof. As I remember it, I made a move out and left then back up and right around a bulge to gain this ledge.

From here, go 164' to the tree at the top. Be judicious in your runners, especially at the start of the roof and any pieces after the rotten band (My rope was about dead vertical from last piece over the entire 5.6 section).

The roof, while loose, is not that scary protection-wise. I got a 00 friend in a great... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Angel's Way (5.2)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Oct 18, 2002

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Comments: Holy Cow! This is an incredible climb.... I feel bad putting 3 stars on Mohling [Arete] right next to it now that I compare it to this.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Mohling Arete (5.5 R)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Oct 17, 2002

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Comments: George,

Warren mentioned you rapped.... but does rapping into those gaps really help you? It seemed like you'd be WAY down, have to go to the edge of the gap, then do a long scramble to get back up... safer (for sure), but it probably breaks up the continuity of the route.

PS you can click on the "advanced" form and then choose your own stars for this route! It's a new feature...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Cozyhang (5.7)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Oct 13, 2002

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Comments: You can also link up pitches 2 and 3 with acceptable levels of rope drag. I remember having 2 pieces for the traverse, both with shoulder slings on them.... after scrambling left and then back right, the rope was straight down from me once I was at the roof.

Why is this roof so hard for me? Maybe it's that old-school 5.7 rating... stupid old-schoolers, denying me my ego-stroking boost...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Break on Through (5.10b)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Oct 12, 2002

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Comments: If rapping from the tree after P1 with a 50m rope, be careful and tie the ends. It's damn close to not being enough rope to get you back to the ledge...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : The Naked and Dead (5.10 R)
By: Michael Komarnitsky When: Oct 8, 2002

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Comments: Enjoyable route, note that the first pitch can be led at 5.8 or so. From there chains allow an easy rap off, or better yet, TR the 5.11d thin flake just right of it.


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