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Gazing at the Gallery


Member Since: Jun 9, 2007
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Michael Kimm


Point Rank: # 380
Total Points: 1,564
Last Year: 187
Last 30 Days: 3
20 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Michael Kimm been climbing?










Contributions


All 631 | Routes 92 | Areas 8 | Photos 95 | Page Improvements | Comments 49 | Posts 30 | Stars 241 | Ratings 116
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe
By: Michael Kimm When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: For anyone else that feels the need to spew vitriol about how dangerous things are on this wall: shut up. They're not. Period. The bolts and anchors are good. Might something break? Yep. Just like holds still break off trade routes at the Gallery nearly thirty years after the fact. You don't like the possibility of an edge snapping or a foot popping? Fine. Go deal with the crowds in the Corridor. But call something of mine UNSAFE because you can't climb gently or evaluate what's good or bad rock... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Behavior Issues (5.10a)
By: Michael Kimm When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: Umm.... There is no big hollow flake on this route. You're thinking of Trust me, I Lie, which crosses this line. The bolt that is "in the flake" is actually in a patch of completely solid rock between two hollow flakes. Yes, they're hollow. They also won't break unless you go up there with the express intention of removing them from the wall.
For anyone else that feels the need to spew vitriol about how dangerous things are on this wall: shut up. They're not. Period. The bolts and anchors are go... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Strategic Arms Wall
By: Michael Kimm When: Nov 25, 2014

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Comments: There are six or seven new routes here; they're not mine, but I climbed several of them. The ones I did range from 5.11+ to middle 5.12. As stuff continues to clean up, this wall is going to be very popular: a run of 100-foot-long steep 11s and 12s? Yes please!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Sunny and Steep (5.11+) : Photo
By: Michael Kimm When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: That boulder is the Golden Nugget, and has a pair of sport climbs on it. It's taller than it looks.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crag
By: Michael Kimm When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: There are six new routes on the south faces of the formation. They climb very much like gym routes with tons of good holds. With so many hold options, these routes will likely shed for a while, but they've already seen a sizable amount of traffic. Good fun; these make the crag an all year and all moderate grade affair.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Fold Out (5.8)
By: Michael Kimm When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: Really nice first pitch and forgettable second. Good mellow fun.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Sensuous Mortician (5.9)
By: Michael Kimm When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: Really really good, albeit soft at 5.9. Fantastic rock, good gear when you need it, and no real crux to speak of. A stellar pitch.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Black Magic Panties (5.10a/b R)
By: Michael Kimm When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: Heady, but as stated, everything is there, and the rock is immaculate. If you're solid at 5.10 RR faces, this is a route well worth doing.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Unknown 10a (5.10a)
By: Michael Kimm When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: Really a spectacular pitch. Someone's gotta know the name of this thing.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Hippie Vest (5.9)
By: Michael Kimm When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: The bolts are good. If you think I don't test the rock before drilling you're out of your mind.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Strategic Arms Wall : SALT (5.10+)
By: Michael Kimm When: May 10, 2014

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Comments: Okay, so I finally got around to going back up to suss the damage... SALT seems completely intact to me, still sitting at a comfortable 10+. Tons of chalk on it too; someone (or many someones) have given it a good many gos it seems. Feels more solid than the first ascent too.. cleaning up well!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Tales from the Gripped (5.11b)
By: Michael Kimm When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: A step up from Delicate Sound of Thunder. Pitch 1 is an intense slab crux if you're short, and pitch three is delicate and committing above the questionable hardware.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Iron Man Wall
By: Michael Kimm When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: Summer of 2008.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain - East : Dog Police (5.10c)
By: Michael Kimm When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: Beautiful route. I found it really chill at the grade, but I have really small hands and fingers. A pain to get to, but well worth it!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Mercedes (5.11-)
By: Michael Kimm When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: There are two different nut options low, both completely bomber placements. Large tricams, or either a #.75 or #2 Camalot can fit in the pocket section, so there are two very good pieces before the first bolt. No R rating here! If you're leading the grade, jump on it! The climb is excellent!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Unknown Corner (5.10-)
By: Michael Kimm When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: Dave Burns informed me yesterday that this route saw a first ascent probably 20 years ago, but couldn't remember the original name or first ascentionist. I've updated the route accordingly.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Semantics (AKA Some Antics) (5.11-)
By: Michael Kimm When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: Saw a second ascent 2/17/14. Nice job Bob!
Bob told me he though the route was solid 5.11. I don't know if I agree with him, but there it is. A second opinion for anyone that wants it. Still a very worthwhile and varied climb!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Chocolate flakes (5.10d)
By: Michael Kimm When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: I took a single rack to 3", doubles of .75 and 1 Camalots, full set of nuts and my C3s. Was happy to have all of it, but you won't need anything bigger than that. I think we only placed the #3 once, on pitch 2.
The bottom two anchors could use some love: From what I remember the top of the first pitch the nuts, bolt ends, and chains are all rusty. One newer bolt and hanger, one older 3/8" with a homemade hanger. Second pitch are two completely rusted homemade hangers on bolts probably 20+ ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Chocolate flakes (5.10d)
By: Michael Kimm When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: Cartwright pitches aren't the most horrid climbing ever, but they're below average in their own right. The first pitch of Chocolate Flakes? Stellar. Really great moves on bomber stone and quality gear. Similar feel as pitch 4 of Nightcrawler. Pitch four has a very interesting section around an offwidth/squeeze and is a heady lead. If only you could do the route without the damn approach pitches...


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Fixx Cliff : Free Base (5.12a)
By: Michael Kimm When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: Hard at 11+, at least for shorty me. A hard sequence off of a hand jam leads to a no hands rest, then three bolts of ever steepening pump.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Fixx Cliff : Snow Blind (5.11c)
By: Michael Kimm When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: The gear is pretty dang good up to the bolt. The head game comes post-crux. Cool, steep face route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Fixx Cliff : The Whiff (5.10a)
By: Michael Kimm When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: The pro isn't bad. Black Alien or equivalent is helpful early on.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Trust Me, I Lie (5.10a)
By: Michael Kimm When: Jan 10, 2014

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Comments: bcf, I'll agree; it's a pretty spicy slab at 10a. That being said, it's about a million times easier and not nearly as scary as the Sumo Greatness slab at children's crag, put up in 1982 by Paul and Sal. 5.9+ they say. Likely an on-purpose sandbag to mess with John Long, who put up a 10b slab right next to it the year before. The 9+ is significantly harder than that one too, and much scarier.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle : The A Crack (5.9)
By: Michael Kimm When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: Rock quality gets worse the higher you get on this one. Sugar cookie sandstone for hands and feet at the crux, both inside and outside the crack. Too bad, as the first 60 feet or so are very pleasant.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle : Xyphoid Fever (5.10)
By: Michael Kimm When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: I'll say, if you're short, or climb short, you definitely have to have some offwidth technique, both to enter and to pull around the roof. I needed to anyway; no crimps only for me!


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