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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Ape Call (5.8 R)
By: Michael G When: 12 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Matt, BD doesn't make a black C3.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moonlight (5.6) : Photo
By: Michael G When: May 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Larry is right, the route goes over the overhang into the corner. A friend of mine was climbing it when one of the FA walked by and confirmed this.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill Bouldering
By: Michael G When: Nov 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can we organize this area into the same sections that are used in the guidebook? It seems like it would avoid confusion. Instead of "Outbreak Area" it should be "The Quarantine", which contains the Outbreak Boulder. Otherwise, we would have to submit a new area for each boulder.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Back to the future (5.8 PG13)
By: Michael G When: Apr 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Never question my gear beta again, Dana.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Falled on Account of Strain (5.10b)
By: Michael G When: Aug 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Paul - it's a pin, not a bolt.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Fat City Direct (5.10d PG13) : Photo
By: Michael G When: Nov 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: What? His last two pieces are on the left rope which is clear of his body.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Scrotum Pole/Drive in Area : Cool Hand Luke (5.6 PG13)
By: Michael G When: Jul 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: pro was fine.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Baby (5.6) : Photo
By: Michael G When: Jun 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks (I think)!
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Location: CA : San Diego County : McCain Valley : Lowenbrau Pinnacle : Direct North Boulder (5.7)
By: Michael G When: Mar 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A key hold broke off above the overhang as my friend was cleaning the route. I'm giving it a 5.7+ because his new sequence looked harder than what I was able to do.
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Location: TN : Foster Falls
By: Michael G When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Everyone,
Just wondering what temps could I expect here in mid-Feb? Just trying to plan a winter climbing trip. It seems like T-Wall would be good to go, and I was wondering if I could squeeze in some sport climbing as well. I'm not expecting t-shirt weather, but I don't want to climb in real cold conditions either (I can do that here at home!). Thanks.
Mike
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Location: Andy Laakmann : Random stuff ddds sdsd : Photo
By: Michael G When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fail or cut? Did someone ever find out?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Dry Heaves (5.8+)
By: Michael G When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A single line is fine. I did it without any serious rope drag. Also, I protected the end of the traverse with a #2, not a 3 or 4. Climbers without doubles or a #4 should not be discouraged from getting on this route.
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Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Sadernes
By: Michael G When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lee, wouldn't this area fall under the Pyrenees? It might be less confusing to new comers if we organized the country geographically. Thanks.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : CCK Direct (5.9 PG13)
By: Michael G When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: don't "step down" on the P2 traverse. You can stay high to make it more fun and interesting.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Cascade Lakes Region : Pitchoff Chimney Cliff : Pete's Farewell (5.7)
By: Michael G When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: single or double rope rap? Thanks.
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Peppy's Face (5.12a R)
By: Michael G When: Aug 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Since you put up the FA, and were ok with using bolts, why not just drill another during the R climbing to make it safer?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Back to the future (5.8 PG13)
By: Michael G When: Aug 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a rap station. The climb ends on the 5.5/6 section of the route to the left (can't remember the name, but think its a 5.9 R).
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Coronary (5.10 R) : Photo
By: Michael G When: Jul 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: badass
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Te Dum (5.7)
By: Michael G When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this in two pitches two days ago, and was able to backup the resident webbing (tree and fixed tricam) with three cams.
Everyone should try to listen to the advice Williams gives in his guidebooks and consider trees off-route. Breaking a limb off a tree can easily have negative consequences for it's life span down the road.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Te Dum (5.7) : Photo
By: Michael G When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not pitch one as described in guidebook. This is a variation. The true first pitch goes up the off-width/wide crack to the left.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Back to the future (5.8 PG13)
By: Michael G When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's called a "G" in the guidebook. I didn't see anything other than a half driven Lost Arrow at the crux. You've been warned.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Fat Stick (5.7)
By: Michael G When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...or easy for the grade if you go by the Dick Williams 5.8 rating.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Up Yours (5.7)
By: Michael G When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree, the first crux protects well for leader, but the second faces a long swing if they come off towards the end of the first crux, or during the traverse afterwards. In an effort to protect the second, I placed a high piece above the slab for the second, and then had to downclimb and move right to get back on route. Since I couldn't place pro until I got above that high piece, I ended up on some 5.4/5 R climbing. It seems that with double ropes you can still place this piece for the second,... more >>
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Location: International : Europe : Spain : Mallorca : Sa Gubia : ... : Estricina (5.9)
By: Michael G When: Jul 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts on the first pitch are bit spaced for Mallorcan standards. I can't speak for the rest of the route, I rapped from first set of anchors.
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Location: International : Europe : Spain : Mallorca : S'estret : ... : Virgin (5.9)
By: Michael G When: Jul 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is certainly harder if you climb the face of the flake, instead of the layback (as in the photo of Chris).
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