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Member Since: Apr 6, 2007
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact Michael Buchanan

Point Rank: # 2,399
Total Points: 258
Last Year: 19
Last 30 Days: 6
7 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Michael Buchanan been climbing?










Contributions


All 426 | Routes 8 | Areas | Photos 20 | Page Improvements | Comments 78 | Posts 4 | Stars 180 | Ratings 136
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Lower Jungle : Hear the Music (5.10a)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Fun. Beware the loose block in the dihedral and the loose feet before getting in to the arete.


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Lower Jungle : Homo cragus (5.10a)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Fun route. Dont fall before clipping the second bolt. The face below the route is the fun stuff. I agree w/ Boissal, the ending is non-obvious as it is kind of a squeeze-job between the 5.9 to the left and the 11 to the right. I aimed for the crack finish and my partner clipped the last bolt on the 11a.


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Lower Jungle : Blue Collar Ape (5.9)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: The flakes inside the crack at the top are loose. Fun sequence at the 3rd bolt, after that it is 5.7 ish.


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Lower Jungle : Oranguterror (5.11d R)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Super fun with a great couple of crux moves. There is a loose jug block at around the 6th bolt.


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Lower Jungle : Coco's Lichen It (5.10a)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Extremely fun. I used BD .3 to #2. The top moves makes the route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Willow Canyon : Twilight Buttress : Comment : Photo
By: Michael Buchanan When: Aug 5, 2015

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Comments: Geology is hard.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Waterfall Dome : For Whom the Bells Toll (5.7)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: Not as good as the Bellagio, but worth it to find the rap stations. P1 and P2 are unremarkable 5.4 slabs. P3 is a fun, 5.5 or 5.6 slab that is reminiscent of the City of Rocks. We combined P4 and P5, which was features well-protected three move 5.7 that should be done on the Bellagio. Beware the rap to the mid-way rap station on P3 as a 70m barely makes it. We skipped the last rappel and rapped into the gully and walked back to the base of the route (approximately 1 minutes scramble).


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Waterfall Dome
By: Michael Buchanan When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: FWIW its approximately 4 miles from the car to the base of FWtBT and the Bellagio.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Waterfall Dome : The Bellagio (5.7)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: This climb is way better than for whom the bell tolls. Each pitch is more sustained and less 5.5 slab than the route to the right. The offwidth is awesome and protects with a double length sling (no need for anything bigger than a size 2 BD C4 on the route). Brings lots of runners to reduce drag. You can easy do FWtBT and this route in a day.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Little Valley : The Bride : Honeymoon (5.7 A2)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Feb 22, 2013

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Comments: Fred Beckey and Jim Hudock was also on the FA (AAJ 1972)


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla... : Red Rider (5.10a)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Jan 3, 2012

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Comments: Probably one of the more interesting and varied 10a around. Classic!


Location: NH : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : The Nuthatch (5.7) : Photo
By: Michael Buchanan When: Jun 18, 2011

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Comments: Agree to disagree. Where I come from bolting extremely easy 4th class rock is considered bad ethics. Rumney is the first place i have climbed where retro-bolting once climbed trad routes (w/ the FAs consent of course) is considered normal fare. I think that this policy has opened up many climbs in Rumney that might not other wise have been climbed because it is dangerous, and I like it. I just dont see the sense in putting in 2 bolts on easier angled rock. There are hiking trails in Nationa... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Metamorphosis (5.8+)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Jun 18, 2011

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Comments: Best warm-up i have ever been on, long and overhanging. Super good.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Clusterphobia (5.10d)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Jun 18, 2011

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Comments: If your tall, the burl move will be chill. Its pretty much a 10a jug haul after that. Super fun.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : The Nuthatch (5.7)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Jun 11, 2011

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Comments: 5.7? More like 5.5 cake walk. Super fun.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : The Nuthatch (5.7) : Photo
By: Michael Buchanan When: Jun 11, 2011

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Comments: If you think this is loose, don't go to Southern Utah, that would be a choss fest compared to this...


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Connecticut Crack (5.11a)
By: Michael Buchanan When: May 14, 2011

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Comments: This thing is sweet! The changeover is some awesome 6-12 feet of really really fun climbing. This route has a nice rest ledge before the business, so up and down climbing to place pro is a breeeeze.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice
By: Michael Buchanan When: May 14, 2011

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Comments: Sweet area! Killer granite, nice cracks. The approach (like most in the east I have been to) is amazingly short. Can get here at the crack of noon and climb a dozen routes!


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Old Town (5.7)
By: Michael Buchanan When: May 14, 2011

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Comments: Sweet route, crux is the first few moves, everything else is cruiser. If it were only longer!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Sail
By: Michael Buchanan When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: This is one of the better crags in LCC. Is it the best? We would all talk about it as much as Crescent, the Gate or Pentapitch if the approach was nearly as chill. But its not. Its a scramble up a gully with loose rock, and class 3 scrambling. The rock is gritty at the top of the routes, but that is due to lack of traffic. This crag is a time capsule. Old school grades, no bolted anchors on the popular trad routes (that is how it should stay) and a sweet views of the top of popular LCC crags... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Variety Delight (5.7)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: History: The first pitch was rated 5.6, the second 5.7. I would tend to agree with this, the first pitch is not as difficult or sustained as Bong Bong Firecracker or Crescent Crack. It really isnt runout either. Remember your trad climbing roots! LCC is an old school area with old school grades .


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Lowe Blow (5.9+)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: Originally called the Dog Leg in Smith's Wasatch Granite Book. P1 was 5.6 P2 face was 5.8 and the offwidth was 5.9.

Cheers


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Sail : Bong Bong Firecracker (5.7)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: Some history. The Wasatch Granite guide by Dave Smith (1977) book said you needed large nuts. This seemed to prevail to all the guidebooks, including the current one. Did they distinguish between hexes and stoppers in the mid to late 70's? Reading Dave's guidebook makes me believe they didn't. He clearly distinguished between bolts, "nuts" and pitons, but not hexes. Dough Robsinson never mention hexes in his infamous 1972 Chouinard Catalogue. I think that the "large nuts" pro recommendation... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Sail : Flying Dutchman (5.10c R)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: Some history (From the original Wasatch Granite Guidebook by Dave Smith, Waqstach Rock Climbs by Smoot and Ellison and the Ruckman Guide):

First ascent by Jack Roberts (solo[!!!!!]). This route was rated 5.9 back in the day, up graded to 5.10 by Smoot and Ellision, then to 10c w/ 5.8 runout climbing above. I thin that we are standing on the shoulders of the old school giants wondering where to go next! Is this route 10c? I dont know. The finger locks are just as good as other finger locks a... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall : Smitty's Wet Dream (5.9) : Photo
By: Michael Buchanan When: Aug 31, 2010

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Comments: Yeah, but at least its not Sharma's signature.


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