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Member Since: Apr 6, 2007
Last Visit: May 6, 2014
Contact Michael Buchanan


Point Rank: # 2,266
Total Points: 239
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Michael Buchanan been climbing?










Contributions


All 361 | Routes 8 | Areas | Photos 18 | Page Improvements | Comments 69 | Posts 4 | Stars 151 | Ratings 111
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Little Valley : The Bride : Honeymoon (5.7 A2)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Feb 22, 2013

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Comments: Fred Beckey and Jim Hudock was also on the FA (AAJ 1972)


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla... : Red Rider (5.10a)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Jan 3, 2012

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Comments: Probably one of the more interesting and varied 10a around. Classic!


Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : The Nuthatch (5.7) : Photo
By: Michael Buchanan When: Jun 18, 2011

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Comments: Agree to disagree. Where I come from bolting extremely easy 4th class rock is considered bad ethics. Rumney is the first place i have climbed where retro-bolting once climbed trad routes (w/ the FAs consent of course) is considered normal fare. I think that this policy has opened up many climbs in Rumney that might not other wise have been climbed because it is dangerous, and I like it. I just dont see the sense in putting in 2 bolts on easier angled rock. There are hiking trails in Nationa... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Metamorphosis (5.8+)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Jun 18, 2011

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Comments: Best warm-up i have ever been on, long and overhanging. Super good.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Clusterphobia (5.10d)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Jun 18, 2011

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Comments: If your tall, the burl move will be chill. Its pretty much a 10a jug haul after that. Super fun.


Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : The Nuthatch (5.7)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Jun 11, 2011

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Comments: 5.7? More like 5.5 cake walk. Super fun.


Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : The Nuthatch (5.7) : Photo
By: Michael Buchanan When: Jun 11, 2011

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Comments: If you think this is loose, don't go to Southern Utah, that would be a choss fest compared to this...


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Connecticut Crack (5.11a)
By: Michael Buchanan When: May 14, 2011

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Comments: This thing is sweet! The changeover is some awesome 6-12 feet of really really fun climbing. This route has a nice rest ledge before the business, so up and down climbing to place pro is a breeeeze.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice
By: Michael Buchanan When: May 14, 2011

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Comments: Sweet area! Killer granite, nice cracks. The approach (like most in the east I have been to) is amazingly short. Can get here at the crack of noon and climb a dozen routes!


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Old Town (5.7)
By: Michael Buchanan When: May 14, 2011

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Comments: Sweet route, crux is the first few moves, everything else is cruiser. If it were only longer!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Sail
By: Michael Buchanan When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: This is one of the better crags in LCC. Is it the best? We would all talk about it as much as Crescent, the Gate or Pentapitch if the approach was nearly as chill. But its not. Its a scramble up a gully with loose rock, and class 3 scrambling. The rock is gritty at the top of the routes, but that is due to lack of traffic. This crag is a time capsule. Old school grades, no bolted anchors on the popular trad routes (that is how it should stay) and a sweet views of the top of popular LCC crags... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Variety Delight (5.7)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: History: The first pitch was rated 5.6, the second 5.7. I would tend to agree with this, the first pitch is not as difficult or sustained as Bong Bong Firecracker or Crescent Crack. It really isnt runout either. Remember your trad climbing roots! LCC is an old school area with old school grades .


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Lowe Blow (5.9+)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: Originally called the Dog Leg in Smith's Wasatch Granite Book. P1 was 5.6 P2 face was 5.8 and the offwidth was 5.9.

Cheers


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Sail : Bong Bong Firecracker (5.7)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: Some history. The Wasatch Granite guide by Dave Smith (1977) book said you needed large nuts. This seemed to prevail to all the guidebooks, including the current one. Did they distinguish between hexes and stoppers in the mid to late 70's? Reading Dave's guidebook makes me believe they didn't. He clearly distinguished between bolts, "nuts" and pitons, but not hexes. Dough Robsinson never mention hexes in his infamous 1972 Chouinard Catalogue. I think that the "large nuts" pro recommendation... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Sail : Flying Dutchman (5.10c R)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: Some history (From the original Wasatch Granite Guidebook by Dave Smith, Waqstach Rock Climbs by Smoot and Ellison and the Ruckman Guide):

First ascent by Jack Roberts (solo[!!!!!]). This route was rated 5.9 back in the day, up graded to 5.10 by Smoot and Ellision, then to 10c w/ 5.8 runout climbing above. I thin that we are standing on the shoulders of the old school giants wondering where to go next! Is this route 10c? I dont know. The finger locks are just as good as other finger locks a... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall : Smitty's Wet Dream (5.9) : Photo
By: Michael Buchanan When: Aug 31, 2010

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Comments: Yeah, but at least its not Sharma's signature.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Dam Wall : Day as Night (5.10a)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Aug 17, 2010

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Comments: Lead w/ gear earlier this year. Gear: couple of hands and thin hands, couple of finger sizes, pink tricam (of course!), maybe some TCUs.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Crack in the Woods (5.9) : Photo
By: Michael Buchanan When: Aug 17, 2010

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Comments: Pointless! Love to due stupid moves (unnecessary heel hooks/dynos/handfoot matches/etc)! 5.9 seems generous for this climb, in my opinion.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Sasquatch (5.9+)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Aug 17, 2010

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Comments: Awesome route. Easier and less sustained then the Green A, but the ambiance of the trees makes you feel like you are in a better place. Love this climb!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Satan's Corner (5.8)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Aug 17, 2010

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Comments: Should probably do the route in one pitch to save time and to get the "full value" experience. Kimber Almond told me he once saw Mugs Stump do this route placing only 2 pieces of pro. Merrill solos it all the time. What hardmen!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Black Streak (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Aug 17, 2010

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Comments: Love the sporty nature of the route. Not runout, parental guidance is not needed for children under 13. The crux moves are all well-protected.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Maybird Slide Area : Maybird East Side : Photo
By: Michael Buchanan When: Aug 17, 2010

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Comments: Agreed, pulling that roof and the dihedral below it has some sweet moves and cool positions!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Maybird Slide Area : Maybird East Side
By: Michael Buchanan When: Aug 17, 2010

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Comments: This has two sweet lines on it. These climbs were more interesting than the shaded stuff in the gully (which are all mainly one move wonders). I would definitely come here before the purple wall area. Pleasantly surprised! Dont be put off at the difficulty ratings, if you know LCC/Bells cracks/face, these are grades are a little more friendly.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Maybird Slide Area : Maybird East Side : Pentapussy (5.10-)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Aug 17, 2010

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Comments: This thing is really cool. No really hard moves, just a sweet position. If you in the area, this climb is a must do. Bring some C3s/TCUs or small stoppers to protect between the bolts. Needs more ascents to be cleaned up a bit...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Maybird Slide Area : Maybird East Side : Feline Stall Tactics (5.8)
By: Michael Buchanan When: Aug 17, 2010

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Comments: What an awesome route, if only it were longer/multi-pitch! The mini-zion curtain flake is awesome! The climbs starts really sweet and the bulge is sweet! Destined to be a classic.


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