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Location: CO : Kor Show - Location changed...
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: According to the AAC site, it's officially a sell out. Enjoy!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Pagoda Mountain : North Buttress (5.7)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: While not necessarily recommended, I've done this route by starting at the very base of Pagoda, just above the lake. There's some sneaky slab climbing to get to the normal start, and little pro along the way (although hard to gauge solo). Fun as a roped climb, with 3rd class above the top of the buttress. Great scenery regardless.
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Location: CO : Ticket Information for Kor'...
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although they didn't bother to list the start time of their ticket sales (they open for business at 8am), I don't think the AAC intended to rip-off the community at large. With such a limited venue, there will be plenty disappointment to go around. Unfortunate, yes... culpable? unknown. Hopefully, there will be something positive out of all this carnage. I know Layton is trying to get his new book project going- maybe this will kickstart it a bit.
It's the first show for Layton in 25 yea... more >>
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Location: CO : Ticket Information for Kor'...
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: John- I sent an EM to Alpine Club (good luck on the phone this am), they say the confirmation EM for purchase will serve as will call at the door.
Pretty comical/lame that they started selling so early on line.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : ... : Photo
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ratty gym shorts were all the rage 25 years ago. I'm into man-pris now.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Jack The Ripper (5.9+ X) : Photo
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: S- These are fear-sensitive glasses. The scarier it is, the darker they become. They were pretty dark at this point. Yeah B, I like the shirt, but sorry about the shorts. Don't know how I was talked wearing these.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Crossfire (5.11d)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rob set the bolts for this with Matt on TR. When he led it with me belaying, the bolt studs were in, but he carried a bag of hangers and a wrench. So, as he got to each bolt, he slapped on a bit of glue, installed the hanger, then clipped the bolt. Pretty fun methodology. There was also a two-bolt belay (at a shelf close to the end of P2 of BC) that made this a great, long pitch. At the height of the bolt wars, this belay and protection bolt for the upper section were excised. The climb now... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I first did this route as a free-solo in 1986 and considered it default 5.8 (as there was no 5.9 on it). I did it again last week and have to stand by that assessment. While it's a bit scary at the second roof, my opinion of the technical difficulty stands. Tri-cams have worked well when I've led it, but still runout for the grade. Psych factor not withstanding, an excellent route.
Interesting discussion on the best 5.8. Alice might be up there. Sounds like the makings of a fun t... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this most-wonderful route again last week (yes, with a rope) and forgot all about how scary it was in '82 before these fancy cammers existed. I now admit, with all the modern pro there are no runouts- unless you leave the rope at home. I'll never ever suggest or advocate anything crazy again... I promise.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Stettner's Ledges (5.8)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hot damn, we (I soloed above a roped team of two) must've gotten lucky in '03. No loose rock, pretty obvious route-finding, and great weather. The first ascent was quite the accomplishment back in the day. My friends and I used descent #9: laborious traverse across Broadway to the base of D1, then rapp down 'crack of delight' to Mills. This definitely added a bit of alpine adventure to the climb, although not necessarily recommended.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Memory Lapse (5.8 R)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Mar 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route (on-sight, free solo) in 1998, but attributed it to Culp after conversation w/ him revealed he had some memory of being in the vicinity in the 'olden days'. Not entirely sure if this was his creation, but it seemed to be the only line that would've been done before 'Smoke & Mirrors' went in, so he gets credit.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Jack The Ripper (5.9+ X)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Mar 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start of the climb, while only 5.8, is completely run-out and not entirely obvious. The crux may very well be at the old piton in the corner below the roof. There was once a pin at the beginning of the traverse in the roof; it fell out about 10 years ago, making the locks a little insecure. Overall, an honest rating must include an "R" (or "S" or whatever is in vogue for 'runout' these days).
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Bad Rad Duality (5.10+)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Dec 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: first ascent October 1985 by Mic and Bill. we eschewed the trend of putting "crack" into the route name, and called it Bad Rad Duality. of note were the two big blocks (2'x3'x3') wedged into the corner about 40' up the route. it was scary for me to climb past and trundle them on the first ascent. we were a bit gear deficient back then, so it warranted an "R" rating, probably now overridden by them fancy cams. a bit of loose rock remains on many desert climbs, so bring your gonads. ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Nov 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks to Larry H. I can tell you that I have '(2) the terrible ring-angle' at my home after it fell out in my hands in the early 80s.
There was discussion and controversy when the bolts went in c.1988. It was agreed at the time (at the famous Bolt Wars meeting) that freeze/thaw had undermined the pitons below a reasonable safety level, and that bolt replacement would be an acceptable remedy. The bolts there are safe, and if you don't like 'em, don't clip 'em !! Briggs agrees, if Bubb does n... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Oct 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: ... and ain't I sorry for suggesting that anyone who doesn't solo this fine line is a weak, gear-lovin', wankmeister. At least, got ya thinking. Some of us remember when there WAS a bolt there, before the weak piton was added. If so, so what? If not, live it or live with it. Either way, quit yur whinin' !!
Don't slap rude and sail if you're shaky at the grade.
Sic Mic
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand : Rotwand Route (5.7 X)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Oct 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn, sports fans. Looks like 200+ summit trips now. It's still the best exfoliating onion-of-a-crag in Eldo! D'ya wanna live forever?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Annual Celebrate Eldorado
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: and a slide show featuring historic Eldorado during the kick-off party!! be there or we chop all the bolts...
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Location: CO : Mic Fairchild’s First Climb...
By: Mic Fairchild When: Aug 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: hi all- 'twas a fun show in that the audience laughed at the jokes and clapped at the end. contact me via mountainproject for more info about DVD, PDU and/or et cetera. thanx 4 your support and best wishes.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : M.I.C. Exit [aka Parable of... (5.10d R)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Mar 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Regarding M ountainneer's I nside C orner: It might be true that Outlander and Cheap Date are more aesthetic, but this one is definitely more historic. Most now credit Sibley with an early ascent. What are you waiting for? Are you going to traverse-off your whole life?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Suite 11 (5.11c/d)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Mar 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Conceived by Steve. Led by Steve and Mic with only trad gear - rather reachy and R-rated by 1980's standards. Retro bolted by Mic after consult w/ Steve in the early '90s.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand : Rotwand Route (5.7 X)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Jul 14, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: speed record (not advisable) 5 min 10 sec on 24 May 04
14 July 2004 completed summit trip #150 on this crag. Mostly on the Rotwand Route (mostly). This rock remains a unique adventure in Eldorado, and while I've pulled off numerous rocks over the years, it seems pretty cleaned off lately. Enjoy and be careful!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Jun 6, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Speed record climbing down 10m 42s (23 Oct 03).
Speed record up remains 5min 33sec.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Kloeberdeath/Candallegro (5.13b)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Nov 3, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: It has died down, but there was a certain amount of controversy surrounding this route at the time it was put in. An eye-witness account of the first ascent follows.
Rob had bolted the upper face and TR'd only that upper face previously with Jim Royce. On his first lead attempt with Jim, he was not able to safely make the crux clip (the bolt at the lip), and came down. At the time, the Kloeberdanz crux was protected by old knotted webbing jammed into a crack, making the 5.12 moves out to the ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Hair City (5.9+ R)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Nov 3, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my top 10 in Eldo, maybe above W Buttress, because of it's clean line. A wonderful lead, and a fabulous solo because the holds are so positive.
Did a nice line a couple weeks ago: up Hair City down Bastille Crack total time 19min 12sec from backpack-to-backpack
Enjoy! sicmic
Don't slap rude and sail if you're shaky at the grade.
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Location: CO : Cañon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Relampago (5.10c)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Nov 3, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: A little different from the usual Shelf lines in that it moves around a corner (!), so you need a long sling. For the gear challenged, try two quicks clipped together. Another nice warm up or challenge at its level. Rating (typically) soft.
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