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Member Since: Jan 14, 2003
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Mic Fairchild


Point Rank: # 1,527
Total Points: 401
Last Year: 25
Last 30 Days: 0
39 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mic Fairchild been climbing?










Contributions


All 351 | Routes 5 | Areas 2 | Photos 56 | Page Improvements | Comments 41 | Posts 179 | Stars 38 | Ratings 30
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Mic Fairchild When: May 2, 2012

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Comments: The two little towers at the West end of the ledge are the starts of Smoke & Mirrors (left) and There's a Cowboy Up there (right). S&M essentially starts by making a move atop the westernmost tower.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Mar 20, 2012

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Comments: Talked to Rob C. who says he put in the bolts summer '88 for Rosy. Mystery solved.

He also did a huge effort to upgrade belay anchors and replace 1/4" lead bolts that year (way before it was vogue).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Mic Fairchild When: Mar 16, 2012

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Comments: Layton would regularly hip belay me when we climbed together. He really enjoyed this route. We did Rosy to Alice that day (autumn 1987).


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Smooth (5.7 R)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Nov 15, 2011

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Comments: This is a really fine climb but without much pro. The protection bolt on pitch 1 is so well camo'ed that it surprised me a bit. Excellent climbing in a great location. Wonderful views of the 3rd.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dreadnaught : Primal Rib (5.5 R)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: Although getting started is a bit of a thrunch, climbing on the ridge is great. I crashed uphill and did some face climbing to get onto the rib proper and had a wonderful time. I don't know how it might go with a rope and partner, but protection and belays looked sparce. Lots of downed trees along Porch Alley on the descent but nothing terminal. Another recommended Roach classic (much better than Angel's Way).


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : East Face/Fiddle Head (5.4)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: This is a fun and varied romp to a scenic summit. The first pitch may be tame, but the wide crack is pretty cool, and the two pitches above have some nice sequences. I think Roach has included this one as a classic with good reason. The Pellaea and Onoclea await just West of the descent rapp.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : The Thing : The East Face (5.7)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Aug 29, 2011

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Comments: When doing the variation on the right side of the raised block, I only climbed the side for about twenty feet before moving left and into a seam in the middle of it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Queen Anne's Head : East Face/Queen Anne's Head (5.4)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: This is a good route, and it made a nice linkup with 1911 Gully. I could find no evidence of Nick's alternative descent, but there are bolts on the summit, and an improvised rappel station on the slab to get down with a single rope.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : 1911 Gully (5.5)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: Did this after an ascent of QAH and found it enjoyable, if a bit awkward with a pack. Minimal thrashing from the QAH rapp to the start of the chimney and good climbing thereafter.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hammerhead : East Ridge (4th)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Jul 22, 2011

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Comments: This is a quality little route. Nice exposure and aesthetics for an easy climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hammerhead
By: Mic Fairchild When: Jul 22, 2011

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Comments: From the sign at the top of Sentinel Pass, walk about 300 steps (+/-) down the trail. You should be by a rectangular block of rock on a level section of the trail. About 50 feet above the trail is the feature in question, you're there! As of July 2011, there is a fairly fresh anchor on top of the summit block, although downclimbing the buckets is recommended.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Achean Pronouncement : East Face/Achean Pronouncem... (5.7)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Aug 21, 2010

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Comments: Is it my imagination, or is the approach (more descent) to this a bushwhacker's paradise? I've been into Skunk a number of times, and the overgrowth seems thicker this year. The route is actually pretty good, although the last pitch will require some savvy routefinding. I stepped out and face climbed past the PI on route; not much help if you're roped. Another thumbs up for the recommended list from Gerry Roach Classics.


Location: CO : Kor Show - Location changed...
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 21, 2008

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Comments: According to the AAC site, it's officially a sell out. Enjoy!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Pagoda Mountain : North Buttress (5.7)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 20, 2008

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Comments: While not necessarily recommended, I've done this route by starting at the very base of Pagoda, just above the lake. There's some sneaky slab climbing to get to the normal start, and little pro along the way (although hard to gauge solo). Fun as a roped climb, with 3rd class above the top of the buttress. Great scenery regardless.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : ... : Photo
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 7, 2008

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Comments: Ratty gym shorts were all the rage 25 years ago. I'm into man-pris now.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Jack The Ripper (5.9+ X) : Photo
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 7, 2008

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Comments: S- These are fear-sensitive glasses. The scarier it is, the darker they become. They were pretty dark at this point. Yeah B, I like the shirt, but sorry about the shorts. Don't know how I was talked wearing these.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Crossfire (5.11d)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 5, 2008

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Comments: Rob set the bolts for this with Matt on TR. When he led it with me belaying, the bolt studs were in, but he carried a bag of hangers and a wrench. So, as he got to each bolt, he slapped on a bit of glue, installed the hanger, then clipped the bolt. Pretty fun methodology. There was also a two-bolt belay (at a shelf close to the end of P2 of BC) that made this a great, long pitch. At the height of the bolt wars, this belay and protection bolt for the upper section were excised. The climb now... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 4, 2008

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Comments: I first did this route as a free-solo in 1986 and considered it default 5.8 (as there was no 5.9 on it). I did it again last week and have to stand by that assessment. While it's a bit scary at the second roof, my opinion of the technical difficulty stands. Tri-cams have worked well when I've led it, but still runout for the grade. Psych factor not withstanding, an excellent route.

Interesting discussion on the best 5.8. Alice might be up there. Sounds like the makings of a fun t... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Stettner's Ledges (5.8)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 2, 2008

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Comments: Hot damn, we (I soloed above a roped team of two) must've gotten lucky in '03. No loose rock, pretty obvious route-finding, and great weather. The first ascent was quite the accomplishment back in the day. My friends and I used descent #9: laborious traverse across Broadway to the base of D1, then rap down 'Crack of Delight' to Mills. This definitely added a bit of alpine adventure to the climb, although not necessarily recommended.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Memory Lapse (5.8 R)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Mar 29, 2008

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Comments: Did this route (on-sight, free solo) in 1998, but attributed it to Culp after conversation w/ him revealed he had some memory of being in the vicinity in the 'olden days'. Not entirely sure if this was his creation, but it seemed to be the only line that would've been done before 'Smoke & Mirrors' went in, so he gets credit.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Jack The Ripper (5.9+ X)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Mar 17, 2008

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Comments: The start of the climb, while only 5.8, is completely run-out and not entirely obvious. The crux may very well be at the old piton in the corner below the roof. There was once a pin at the beginning of the traverse in the roof; it fell out about 10 years ago, making the locks a little insecure. Overall, an honest rating must include an "R" (or "S" or whatever is in vogue for 'runout' these days).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Bad Rad Duality (5.10+)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Dec 13, 2007

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Comments: first ascent October 1985 by Mic and Bill. We eschewed the trend of putting "crack" into the route name, and called it Bad Rad Duality. Of note were the two big blocks (2'x3'x3') wedged into the corner about 40' up the route. It was scary for me to climb past and trundle them on the first ascent. We were a bit gear deficient back then, so it warranted an "R" rating, probably now overridden by a more generous selection of cams. A bit of loose rock remains on many desert climbs, so bring your... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Annual Celebrate Eldorado
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 12, 2007

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Comments: and a slide show featuring historic Eldorado during the kick-off party!! be there or we chop all the bolts...


Location: CO : Mic Fairchild’s First Climb...
By: Mic Fairchild When: Aug 6, 2007

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Comments: hi all- 'twas a fun show in that the audience laughed at the jokes and clapped at the end. contact me via mountainproject for more info about DVD, PDU and/or et cetera. thanx 4 your support and best wishes.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : M.I.C. Exit [aka Parable of... (5.10d R)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Mar 13, 2006

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Comments: Regarding M ountainneer's I nside C orner: It might be true that Outlander and Cheap Date are more aesthetic, but this one is definitely more historic. Most now credit Sibley with an early ascent. What are you waiting for? Are you going to traverse-off your whole life?


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