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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Mic Fairchild When: May 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The top of Italian Arete and Chockstone further down.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Mic Fairchild When: May 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The two little towers at the West end of the ledge are the starts of Smoke & Mirrors (left) and There's a Cowboy Up there (right). S&M essentially starts by making a move atop the westernmost tower.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Bulges (5.2 R)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Apr 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kung fu, that was one of my good ones.
But what's a few broken bones,
when you know that it's good clean fun?!
Not many belay options, but fun climbing (about 4 pitches) onto the crest as shown in pic above, then scramble south along the ridge to hiking terrain and exit to the west.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Mar 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Talked to Rob C. who says he put in the bolts summer '88 for Rosy. Mystery solved.
He also did a huge effort to upgrade belay anchors and replace 1/4" lead bolts that year (way before it was vogue).
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Mar 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: My memory (admittedly fuzzy) was that the bolts went in prior to the inception of ACE and FHRC- hence no records. It was also around this time that the Bolt Wars were raging over rap placements, leading to the bolt ban. The big climber meeting at the Rock Club was in 1988, with Briggs arguing for the Rosy retro. I thought Roger did the job, but talking to both him and Rossiter doesn't yield an exact date. Based on ACE being over 20 y/o, all three of us are putting it around 1989. I'll make ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Mic Fairchild When: Mar 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Layton would regularly hip belay me when we climbed together. He really enjoyed this route. We did Rosy to Alice that day (autumn 1987).
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Location: Colorado & Rocky Mountain R... : Boulder beer night 26 Jan,... : Post : Photo
By: Mic Fairchild When: Jan 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shocked by the flash reflection off that boy's head!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Smooth (5.7 R)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Nov 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really fine climb but without much pro. The protection bolt on pitch 1 is so well camo'ed that it surprised me a bit. Excellent climbing in a great location. Wonderful views of the 3rd.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dreadnaught : Primal Rib (5.5 R)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Oct 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although getting started is a bit of a thrunch, climbing on the ridge is great. I crashed uphill and did some face climbing to get onto the rib proper and had a wonderful time. I don't know how it might go with a rope and partner, but protection and belays looked sparce. Lots of downed trees along Porch Alley on the descent but nothing terminal. Another recommended Roach classic (much better than Angel's Way).
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : East Face/Fiddle Head (5.4)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Oct 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun and varied romp to a scenic summit. The first pitch may be tame, but the wide crack is pretty cool, and the two pitches above have some nice sequences. I think Roach has included this one as a classic with good reason. The Pellaea and Onoclea await just West of the descent rapp.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : The Thing : The East Face (5.7)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Aug 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: When doing the variation on the right side of the raised block, I only climbed the side for about twenty feet before moving left and into a seam in the middle of it.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Queen Anne's Head : East Face/Queen Anne's Head (5.4)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Aug 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good route, and it made a nice linkup with 1911 Gully. I could find no evidence of Nick's alternative descent, but there are bolts on the summit, and an improvised rappel station on the slab to get down with a single rope.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : 1911 Gully (5.5)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Aug 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this after an ascent of QAH and found it enjoyable, if a bit awkward with a pack. Minimal thrashing from the QAH rapp to the start of the chimney and good climbing thereafter. Saw some rock scratches but no '1911'.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hammerhead : East Ridge (4th)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Jul 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a quality little route. Nice exposure and aesthetics for an easy climb.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hammerhead
By: Mic Fairchild When: Jul 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: From the sign at the top of Sentinel Pass, walk about 300 steps (+/-) down the trail. You should be by a rectangular block of rock on a level section of the trail. About 50 feet above the trail is the feature in question, you're there! As of July 2011, there is a fairly fresh anchor on top of the summit block, although downclimbing the buckets is recommended.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Achean Pronouncement : East Face/Achean Pronouncem... (5.7)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Aug 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is it my imagination, or is the approach (more descent) to this a bushwhacker's paradise? I've been into Skunk a number of times, and the overgrowth seems thicker this year. The route is actually pretty good, although the last pitch will require some savvy routefinding. I stepped out and face climbed past the PI on route; not much help if you're roped. Another thumbs up for the recommended list from Gerry Roach Classics.
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Location: CO : Kor Show - Location changed...
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: According to the AAC site, it's officially a sell out. Enjoy!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Pagoda Mountain : North Buttress (5.7)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: While not necessarily recommended, I've done this route by starting at the very base of Pagoda, just above the lake. There's some sneaky slab climbing to get to the normal start, and little pro along the way (although hard to gauge solo). Fun as a roped climb, with 3rd class above the top of the buttress. Great scenery regardless.
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Location: CO : Ticket Information for Kor'...
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although they didn't bother to list the start time of their ticket sales (they open for business at 8am), I don't think the AAC intended to rip-off the community at large. With such a limited venue, there will be plenty disappointment to go around. Unfortunate, yes... culpable? unknown. Hopefully, there will be something positive out of all this carnage. I know Layton is trying to get his new book project going- maybe this will kickstart it a bit.
It's the first show for Layton in 25 yea... more >>
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Location: CO : Ticket Information for Kor'...
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: John- I sent an EM to Alpine Club (good luck on the phone this am), they say the confirmation EM for purchase will serve as will call at the door.
Pretty comical/lame that they started selling so early on line.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : ... : Photo
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ratty gym shorts were all the rage 25 years ago. I'm into man-pris now.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Jack The Ripper (5.9+ X) : Photo
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: S- These are fear-sensitive glasses. The scarier it is, the darker they become. They were pretty dark at this point. Yeah B, I like the shirt, but sorry about the shorts. Don't know how I was talked wearing these.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Crossfire (5.11d)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rob set the bolts for this with Matt on TR. When he led it with me belaying, the bolt studs were in, but he carried a bag of hangers and a wrench. So, as he got to each bolt, he slapped on a bit of glue, installed the hanger, then clipped the bolt. Pretty fun methodology. There was also a two-bolt belay (at a shelf close to the end of P2 of BC) that made this a great, long pitch. At the height of the bolt wars, this belay and protection bolt for the upper section were excised. The climb now... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I first did this route as a free-solo in 1986 and considered it default 5.8 (as there was no 5.9 on it). I did it again last week and have to stand by that assessment. While it's a bit scary at the second roof, my opinion of the technical difficulty stands. Tri-cams have worked well when I've led it, but still runout for the grade. Psych factor not withstanding, an excellent route.
Interesting discussion on the best 5.8. Alice might be up there. Sounds like the makings of a fun t... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Mic Fairchild When: Sep 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this most-wonderful route again last week (yes, with a rope) and forgot all about how scary it was in '82 before these fancy cammers existed. I now admit, with all the modern pro there are no runouts- unless you leave the rope at home. I'll never ever suggest or advocate anything crazy again... I promise.
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