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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : The Climb Too Tough To Die (5.10a PG13)
By: Meghan When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...I have just confirmed that you cannot link pitches 3 & 4 with a 70m rope... In case anyone was wondering. There is, however, a good tree about 30 feet past the actual anchors to belay from with a huge ants' nest to sit in (red ants) if you are stupid enough to try. They were fairly benign for red ants. :-) FYI-- I took a single rack from #1 Metolius to #3 Camalot and used everything except the #1 Camalot and #4 Metolius. I definitely didn't sew up the route, but wa... more >>
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Westworld Dome : Warpaint (5.10c PG13)
By: Meghan When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you do Warpaint soon after 10/10/09, then you may want to bring a wrench with you. There are several spinners at the top two sets of anchors (otherwise in great shape-- almost new-- but somebody needs to tighten the nuts). I would have done it, but I didn't have a wrench. GREAT route!! :-) Thanks as usual EFR!!!
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Photo
By: Meghan When: Apr 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...and his sidekick the "Stronhold Staypuff Marshmallow Gal". I was wearing TWO down puffies, a fleece jacket, TWO thermal shirts, AND a shell... Bean Fest was COLD!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Meghan When: Mar 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There was a post a while back, but as an update, as of 3/9/09 one of the two bolts for the anchor on the last pitch is still a spinner and the bolt is loose in the wall. Really fun route-- we didn't see anybody else all day (of course, it was so cold that everybody else was probably smart enough to climb something sunny... but nonetheless, it was deserted...)
:-)
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Unknown (right of stampede) (5.10a)
By: Meghan When: Jan 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, that was me... Good meeting you! I loved your crag dog!! He hung out with us while we ate, drank, and climbed Sheep Thrills. :-)
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Unknown (right of stampede) (5.10a)
By: Meghan When: Jan 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the support on the .10a business. I thought it worthwhile to post so that the "budding 5.9 climber" wouldn't get on the route without any warning that it's a little stiff. We also ran the first two pitches together and did it in 4 using a 70m. Might be able to do it that way with a 60m. Happy climbing!! :-)
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Unknown (right of stampede) (5.10a)
By: Meghan When: Jan 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this again yesterday and think it's actually harder than I originally thought. On climbing it again, I think it has a few .10a moves and a lot of sustained 5.9. Really good route.
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Location: AZ : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ... : Table Dome : Wily Javelina (5.9)
By: Meghan When: Dec 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an awsome route if you like slab. As for the "R" rating, It is well bolted through the harder moves and run out on the easy sections. For a really solid 5.9 leader, it will seem very safe, but for someone who is shaky on a 5.9, you may want to wait. The first bolt is probably 30-40' from the ground on relatively easy climbing. The last two pitches are only protected by one bolt and chicken heads, but there are bomber holds everywhere and the chicken heads are good.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Muttonhead : Mystery of the Desert (5.9)
By: Meghan When: Dec 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...OK, so we took off all our GEAR except harnesses... Thanks for pointing out my sloppy language... but it would have been much more humorous if it really was EVERYTHING but the harness. That would be a funny stunt to pull. YOU get to be the one going through the squeeze chimney. I'll handle the camera this time!
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Muttonhead : Mystery of the Desert (5.9)
By: Meghan When: Dec 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...Eric Deschamps and I did go through the chimney... after taking our helmets and everything else besides harnesses off. Even just my knot got stuck over and over again and I'm a bony, small, person. It was great fun, though!! Good route.
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Location: AZ : The Dry Canyon : Photo
By: Meghan When: Dec 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was Vince Bates warming up on Spinal Twist. Great photo, Daryl!!! I felt bad about screwing your hand up the day before, but now I'm glad you were relegated to taking pictures! (Although I hope your hand is O.K. now... sorry to send a rock down on it with my rock exploding cam.)
:-)
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Location: Daryl Allan : gen : Photo
By: Meghan When: Dec 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have the super secret beta that this IS NOT a baby's butt... The "nice girl" in question would make most climbers get a little too gripped to place gear, though. Don't know how Daryl managed to get a chick that hot to let him get his chalky fingers within camming distance of her!! :-)
Yes, Daryl, this comment is for YOU, man...!
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : Photo
By: Meghan When: Nov 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Paul-- If you find out what we were on, I'd love to know! :-)
PS: I'd like to go back and do "As the Wind Cries" sometime. It looked like fun.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : Photo
By: Meghan When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have no idea what route or combination of routes we actually ended up doing, but...
For the first pitch, we went up a chimney, through a hole just big enough for a climber and their rack (if the climber and the rack are fairly small). It was a choss pile, but really fun after the crust stopped raining down on my head...!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Chimney Rock : Crows Nest (5.10) : Photo
By: Meghan When: Nov 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dude... we had EFR... need I say more? :-)
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Chimney Rock : Crows Nest (5.10) : Photo
By: Meghan When: Nov 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Catalonian Crusher (or Crazy Catalonian, depending on how you look at it...)!! That was the most fun climbing day in a long time-- what a great route, eh?!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Jailhouse Rock : Photo
By: Meghan When: Jul 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yay!! The long lost camera has been found! It belongs to my friend Dan... Thank you Aaron!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Jailhouse Rock : The Exercise Yard LEFT (5.10)
By: Meghan When: Jul 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun, SHORT, route-- almost a bouldering problem. Felt like I might hit the ground if I fell clipping the second bolt, but there were big jugs to clip from...
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Isle of You (Ewe) : Trad Rock : Jizzneyland (5.10c)
By: Meghan When: Jul 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The book Rock Climbing Arizona describes this climb as follows: "Jizzneyland (5.10c) Begin right of two large boulders and a right-slanting, left-facing corner. Thin crux edging to the 1st bolt. Continue up right to a small ledge. Climb the headwall above past two 5.10 cruxes to anchors. 8 bolts to 2-bolt anchor. Lower off." This sounds EXACTLY like what I did today, but the description above doesn't fit... anybody else do this route lately and know for sure that it was Jizzneyland? The ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Unknown (right of stampede) (5.10a)
By: Meghan When: Jul 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route!! Sustained and diverse 5.9. Every pitch is different and none are much easier than 9.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Jailhouse Rock : Cell Block Eight (5.8)
By: Meghan When: Jun 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not only is the climbing between the 3rd and 4th bolts runout, but you can't see the 4th bolt (which is on the arete above/right of the roof) or the anchors from even six feet above the 3rd bolt, so if you haven't done the climb before, it looks like there's nothing there. It's there-- just have to keep climbing. You will probably want a cam or nut between bolts 3 and 4. Otherwise a fall would hurt. Fun climb.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Jailhouse Rock : Safe Cracker (5.6)
By: Meghan When: Jun 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...Ahhh, but he is naming this one "Safe Cracker", not "Safecracker". Play one the first route, or play on any of the variety of meanings of the word "cracker"? For instance, I am almost certainly a "cracker", and may be safe, but is that the type of cracker to which he refers?? O.K., just being silly, but it really isn't the same name.
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Location: AZ : The Mustang
By: Meghan When: Jun 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Watch the bees on BeeWare! There aren't just a few, benign, namesakes, but rather hordes of them that swarm out of holes in the rock at roughly the 3rd bolt. It would be a great route in the winter. My partner ended up being stung at least ten times while I madly lowered him and tried to keep from being stung myself. Other than that, it's a cool area!!
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