Member Since: Jun 2, 2006
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
How do you get points?
Point Rank: # 6,662
Total Points: 41
Last Year: 16
Last 30 Days: 0
|Areas are worth 15|
|Routes are worth 10|
|Photos are worth 5|
|Comments are worth 1|
Where has md3 been climbing?
|Personal: Lives in Flagstaff, AZ 86001, 48 years old, Male|
|Favorite Climbs: none specified|
|Other Interests: none specified|
|Personal/Favorite web site: none specified|
|Likes to climb: Trad, Sport climbs |
|Trad: ||Leads 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a ||Follows 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a|
|Sport: ||Leads 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b ||Follows 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b|
|Ice: ||Leads WI5 ||Follows WI5|
|More information:|In alpine climbing where speed is safety I have always used the traditional approach of avoiding setting anchors whenever possible. This means stance belays and often hip or shoulder belays for the second. (Device belays for the leader.) On many routes you can go faster stopping short of full rope lengths to take advantage of stance belay opportunities than you can going the full rope length and setting anchors. Of course, this all depends on the terrain, and sometimes you can't get good stance belays, so you have to set anchors and then it makes sense to go as far as possible each pitch. But when you can forgo the anchors and just do hip or shoulder belays for the second, you can switch back and forth into fourth classing easier terrain more quickly, and move faster overall. Anyway- thatís my approach.