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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Standing Rock : The Regular Route (5.11c)
By: Max Schon When: Apr 15, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: For the overall experience, this is quiet possibly the best desert tower. I found Crusher's description of the route to be spot on, though he does understate the intensity of the climb. Although it is only 300 feet, it is definitely a grade III. I thought the first pitch was certainly solid 5.10 and the second pitch is very sustained and steep. The third pitch isn't really that bad. It's short and the crux is only a boulder move. The flake at the crux move, however, is definitely going to ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Sinestra (5.11)
By: Max Schon When: Oct 22, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Superb and pumpy route. I would suggest bringing two #3.5 Camalots, six #3 Camalots or 3.5 Friends, six #2 Camalots, three #1 Camalots or 2.5 friends, and maybe one .75 Camalot or #2 Friend. The slot in the beginning is easily protectable with a #3 camalot. At least three runners and four draws will help alleviate rope drag.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+)
By: Max Schon When: Oct 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jimmy,
Other people have told me the bolt line that goes straight up from the Gobbler belay is an 5.10+/.11- variation that connects back with DOWT.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Black Uhuru (5.10)
By: Max Schon When: Oct 12, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The hands corner just to the left of Where's Carruthers is not BU. The above description is accurate in terms of the climbs location. The climb has a plaque below it. BU has a lot of fingers as well, with a short finger crux near the top.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Washer Woman : In Search Of Suds (5.10+)
By: Max Schon When: Oct 10, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, though there is a fair amount of choss on it. The summit, however, is worth every bit. I don't think the final face moves are any harder then the face moves on Ancient Art. I think this route is comparable in difficulty to Jah Man. We approached from the south side. If approaching from this side head directly to your right up the ridge rather then follow the wash.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Powders of Persuasion (5.11)
By: Max Schon When: Oct 8, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Interesting collection of items" you say. I take it you found the one we brought up last time (a book of sorts, with a picture?) :) We got a laugh out of it.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Sacred Ground (5.12b)
By: Max Schon When: Oct 4, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route! First pitch is very sustained with many 5.11 moves. Third pitch is fun and the fourth pitch, well, it's hard. No need for any gear on the last pitch, just five draws.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Lighthouse Tower : Lonely Vigil (5.10)
By: Max Schon When: Jun 10, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can easily rap from the top of the second pitch to the ground with two sixty meter ropes. When pulling your ropes, just make sure you stand back a ways and they should pull fine.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a)
By: Max Schon When: May 13, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: First of all, the bolted line at the end of Fine Jade is actually the proper finish to Coyote Calling. Second, that section is not .11a, more like .10, the 5.7 finish is WAY more fun. Third, a #4 Cam on the first pitch!? Fine Jade is one of the few towers you don't need such a big piece.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Sour Mash (5.10a)
By: Max Schon When: May 13, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Swain's guide mentions something about big gear (#3 Friend) for the belay after the first pitch. Not! There is much better smaller gear to make a belay. Nothing bigger then a single gold camalot is needed.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Fingers In A Lightsocket (5.11+)
By: Max Schon When: May 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd agree with the last comment about placing two aliens and then gunning for it. I wouldn't call it runout, though. You're only about five feet(at most) above your last piece. The first time I got on this route I whipped at the crux; the piece held just fine. Pieces pulling are more often then not pilot error.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Comic Relief (5.12a)
By: Max Schon When: May 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's to the right of Scarface, about a hundred yards. There are two roof cracks, one Comic Relief, the other Not That Funny. Both are to the left of the mega-classic Desert Vaurnet.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : King Cat (5.11+)
By: Max Schon When: Apr 22, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thankfully, you cannot clip the anchor before pulling the roof.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Swedin-Ringle (5.12-)
By: Max Schon When: Apr 20, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Placing gear on this climb is strenuous; I would recommend the following, in order: one yellow alien (or two if you're paranoid about falling on a single one); one #2 Friend; two .75 camalots; one .5 camalot; and one more yellow alien or .4 camalot; a green alien to aid the last move if you can't clip the chains.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: Max Schon When: Apr 20, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this 4.17.04. Gear suggestions are always relative, but if you're a solid 5.10 climber then you won't need very much gear. I didn't bring anything bigger then a 3.5 Friend and I did wish, when I was 15 feet above my last piece on pitch 2, that I had a #4 Camalot. Otherwise, a single set of cams is plenty. The first bolt on pitch 3 sticks out about an inch. The other two bolts are decent. There is a ratty sling after the last bolt on pitch 3. Other then a brief bit of squeezing a... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks
By: Max Schon When: Apr 14, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haven't done it, but I've rapped down it a few times. Looks good. Got a couple bolts. .10+, I think.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Nubian Slave (5.10)
By: Max Schon When: Apr 8, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty good. Its a little unusual for the Creek; its kinda like a tower pitch. Good warm-up if Scarface has got hords of gumbies on it.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : The Gift (5.12d)
By: Max Schon When: Mar 16, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's .12c if you cruise it, and .12d if you barely send it. If you don't send it, well, you don't have the right to grade it. Honestly people, who cares if its a "soft" .12d? The route is incredible, with awesome moves.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca
By: Max Schon When: Mar 16, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This crag is not worth going to. The climbs are very short and, for the most part, chossy.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Max Schon When: Mar 16, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, this route is crowed. Yes, your ropes will get stuck rapping. Yes, you should still do this route. The only downside to this route, is the unnecessary bolts on the first couple pitches. The route would be a lot more stimulating if you had to bring some big gear. We didn't bring anything bigger then a gold Camalot.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : The Gobbler (5.10-)
By: Max Schon When: Mar 16, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dito on the rope getting stuck in the groove on pitch 2. I'd been warned about it, so I managed to keep it out, but it could easily get stuck. I watched a guy have to downclimb the slot to free his rope. It didn't look bad, but still not any fun.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: Max Schon When: Mar 16, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route on 3/13/04. We did it in 9 pitches without any simul-climbing. I brought a #4, #3, #2, #1, and #.5 Camalot, a blue, green, and yellow alien, and a set of nuts. Altough it is easily possible to do the climb without a #4 Camalot, I was happy to have it (although next time I do it I might not bring it, but that's only because I would have already done it). The 5.9 climbing after the chimneys is very easy. More like 5.7-5.8 climbing with one mo... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+)
By: Max Schon When: Mar 16, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route on 3/12/04. Without a doubt, the best route on Black Velvet Wall, though I haven't done Rock Warrior. Anyways, compared to the other routes on the Black Velvet Wall, this one is very solid for the grade. While its not dangerous, I do think it warrants a "R" rating, if only for the fact that you're looking a factor two fall off of the third and fourth belay. Granted, the climbing isn't very hard getting to the first bolt on the third pitch nor the first bolt on the fourth pitch... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Bachelor Party (5.11+)
By: Max Schon When: Feb 12, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two blue aliens or purple TCUs will protect the start nicely. I don't recall any tips on this climb. More like bomber finger locks most of the way. The crux is bomber locks without feet. Purple Camalots work nicely.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10)
By: Max Schon When: Jan 28, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did the route again last weekend. Forgot how cool this route is. Anyways, here are my gear suggestions.
Three .75 cams or #2 Friends and maybe three #1 Camalots. An orange alien backs up the manky bolt on pitch 2 nicely. The flake is going to break, someday soon perhaps. Two .5 Camalots is plenty and maybe a couple finger pieces. Nuts can certainly be placed all over this climb. Nothing bigger then a #3 Camalot is needed. Take #2 Camalot.
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