Point Rank: # 1,300
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Where has Max Schon been climbing?
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Contributions
| All (107) | Routes (12) | Areas | Photos | Comments (45) | Posts | Stars (32) | Ratings (18) | | Page 1 of 5. 1 2 3 4 5 Next> |
Contributed Routes |
| Name |
Rating |
Type |
Location |
Useful To |
Date |
Maceo | 5.12- | Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet | UT : Moab Area : ... : Cat Wall | | Jan 1, 2005 |
Pale Fire | 5.12b | Trad, 4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade IV | UT : Moab Area : ... : Moses | | Jan 1, 2005 |
Cyborg | 5.12c/d | Trad, 90 feet | UT : Moab Area : ... : Reservoir Wall | | Jan 1, 2005 |
Powerline Toprope | 5.11+ | , 80 feet | UT : Moab Area : ... : Power Wall | | Jan 1, 2005 |
Dark Horse | 5.12a | Sport, 70 feet | UT : Moab Area : ... : Wall Street | | Jan 1, 2005 |
Let 'er Buck | 5.12b | Sport, 100 feet | UT : Moab Area : ... : Donnelly Canyon | | Oct 17, 2004 |
Mantel Illness | 5.10+ | Trad | UT : Moab Area : ... : Scarface | | Mar 1, 2004 |
Rim Shot | 5.11- | Trad, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III | UT : Moab Area : ... : The Bridger Jacks | | Nov 1, 2003 |
Powders of Persuasion | 5.11 | Trad, 4 pitches, 350 feet, Grade III | UT : Moab Area : ... : The Bridger Jacks | | Oct 1, 2003 |
Pistol Whipped | 5.12- | Trad, 3 pitches, 310 feet | UT : Moab Area : ... : Pistol Whipped | | Jan 1, 2002 |
Polygrip | 5.11 | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet | UT : Moab Area : ... : Broken Tooth | | Jan 1, 2002 |
unnamed 5.10/11 (?) | 5.10+ | Trad | UT : Moab Area : ... : Broken Tooth | | Jan 1, 2002 |
Contributed Comments | | |
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Standing Rock : The Regular Route (5.11c)
By: Max Schon When: Apr 15, 2005 | view comment >> | Comments: For the overall experience, this is quiet possibly the best desert tower. I found Crusher's description of the route to be spot on, though he does understate the intensity of the climb. Although it is only 300 feet, it is definitely a grade III. I thought the first pitch was certainly solid 5.10 and the second pitch is very sustained and steep. The third pitch isn't really that bad. It's short and the crux is only a boulder move. The flake at the crux move, however, is definitely going to ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Sinestra (5.11)
By: Max Schon When: Oct 22, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: Superb and pumpy route. I would suggest bringing two #3.5 Camalots, six #3 Camalots or 3.5 Friends, six #2 Camalots, three #1 Camalots or 2.5 friends, and maybe one .75 Camalot or #2 Friend. The slot in the beginning is easily protectable with a #3 camalot. At least three runners and four draws will help alleviate rope drag.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+)
By: Max Schon When: Oct 15, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: Jimmy,
Other people have told me the bolt line that goes straight up from the Gobbler belay is an 5.10+/.11- variation that connects back with DOWT.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Black Uhuru (5.10)
By: Max Schon When: Oct 12, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: The hands corner just to the left of Where's Carruthers is not BU. The above description is accurate in terms of the climbs location. The climb has a plaque below it. BU has a lot of fingers as well, with a short finger crux near the top.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Washer Woman : In Search Of Suds (5.10+)
By: Max Schon When: Oct 10, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: Great route, though there is a fair amount of choss on it. The summit, however, is worth every bit. I don't think the final face moves are any harder then the face moves on Ancient Art. I think this route is comparable in difficulty to Jah Man. We approached from the south side. If approaching from this side head directly to your right up the ridge rather then follow the wash.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Powders of Persuasion (5.11)
By: Max Schon When: Oct 8, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: "Interesting collection of items" you say. I take it you found the one we brought up last time (a book of sorts, with a picture?) :) We got a laugh out of it.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Sacred Ground (5.12b)
By: Max Schon When: Oct 4, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: Awesome route! First pitch is very sustained with many 5.11 moves. Third pitch is fun and the fourth pitch, well, it's hard. No need for any gear on the last pitch, just five draws.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Lighthouse Tower : Lonely Vigil (5.10)
By: Max Schon When: Jun 10, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: You can easily rap from the top of the second pitch to the ground with two sixty meter ropes. When pulling your ropes, just make sure you stand back a ways and they should pull fine.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a)
By: Max Schon When: May 13, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: First of all, the bolted line at the end of Fine Jade is actually the proper finish to Coyote Calling. Second, that section is not .11a, more like .10, the 5.7 finish is WAY more fun. Third, a #4 Cam on the first pitch!? Fine Jade is one of the few towers you don't need such a big piece.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Sour Mash (5.10a)
By: Max Schon When: May 13, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: Swain's guide mentions something about big gear (#3 Friend) for the belay after the first pitch. Not! There is much better smaller gear to make a belay. Nothing bigger then a single gold camalot is needed.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Fingers In A Lightsocket (5.11+)
By: Max Schon When: May 7, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: I'd agree with the last comment about placing two aliens and then gunning for it. I wouldn't call it runout, though. You're only about five feet(at most) above your last piece. The first time I got on this route I whipped at the crux; the piece held just fine. Pieces pulling are more often then not pilot error.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Comic Relief (5.12a)
By: Max Schon When: May 7, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: It's to the right of Scarface, about a hundred yards. There are two roof cracks, one Comic Relief, the other Not That Funny. Both are to the left of the mega-classic Desert Vaurnet.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : King Cat (5.11+)
By: Max Schon When: Apr 22, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: Thankfully, you cannot clip the anchor before pulling the roof.
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